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Thanks West. Nice to know someone's gone before where you're headed! My first two flatbows are still functioning beautifully, but my last two, which were elb experiments (modified for red oak) blew on me, so i'm a little apprehensive about this one. Worst case scenario, it doesn't work and i get to build another! Lookin forward to trying this pyramid on a larger bow after this!
-------------------- Kevin
"he hath bent his bow, and made it ready . . .his arrow shall go forth as the lightning" - Psalm 7:12, Zech. 9:14 Posts: 345 | From: Texas | Registered: Jan 2011
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Let's say a guy is kind of lacking in the power tool area. Could a hand held jig saw be used instead of a bandsaw? I am referring to the handle cutouts and fade cutouts. I will be using my skilsaw for cutting out the limbs so no worries there. But that is the only area that I have seen that I would need a special tool for. Well not really need, but to make it go faster.
-------------------- "A road is a dagger placed in the heart of a wilderness." -William O. Douglas
Believe it or not the "HARDWAY" is often the EASIER way(in hindsight)! 2xOIF VET Bear Cub #48@28" Posts: 970 | From: Gladwin Michigan | Registered: Oct 2007
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-------------------- "Walk softly...and carry a bent stick."
"And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ, giving thanks to God the Father through him." Col. 3:17 Posts: 1172 | From: Nebraska | Registered: Aug 2009
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Mike, Jigsaw takes a lotta wood fast, so if you do be super careful and slow and leave plenty of line. Most would probably say don't do it. I used one on my second bow for the handle cutout like your saying, wound up going a little to far in on the back side of the handle, but was able to correct it with the shaping. I use a small curved stanley sureform for the handle profile (don't have a good rasp yet). Cost about $5 at depot and takes some elbow grease. Maybe do a practice run on a scrap piece b4 you go for it? I've only got 4 bows under my belt, so take it with a shaker of salt
-------------------- Kevin
"he hath bent his bow, and made it ready . . .his arrow shall go forth as the lightning" - Psalm 7:12, Zech. 9:14 Posts: 345 | From: Texas | Registered: Jan 2011
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-------------------- "A road is a dagger placed in the heart of a wilderness." -William O. Douglas
Believe it or not the "HARDWAY" is often the EASIER way(in hindsight)! 2xOIF VET Bear Cub #48@28" Posts: 970 | From: Gladwin Michigan | Registered: Oct 2007
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I have a oak board w/ good grain that I had salvaged. It had brad nail holes in it so I worked around them and and ended up with 68"long 9" riser, 4 1/2" handle, 1 3/4 fades to 1/2" tips. Cause this is not as wide at the fades as your build along bow and I have changed the handle size do I make my limb thickness the same 15/32 or thicker.. Thanks your friend Chuck
Posts: 104 | From: Salmon Arm BC, Canada | Registered: May 2006
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A page back K-Hat and WestTexas built a bow with about the same dimensions. Can I up the Lbs to about 40-45lbs or better if I back the bow with Paper,rawhide, or denim? Also should I taper my profile? Cant wait much longer I'm chomping at the bit to cut it out.. Thanks Guys Chuck
Posts: 104 | From: Salmon Arm BC, Canada | Registered: May 2006
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crgibson: If you made the bow narrower than the buildalong, then I'd made it a full 1/2" thick for the entire length of the bow (minus the fades, obviously). However, wooden bows don't follow a recipe, so this is only a starting point. A lot of factors come into play when actually nailing a target weight/draw length. Also, paper, rawhide, denim, linen, silk, etc. are all protective backings and will NOT raise the draw weight effectively. They simply help protect against a splinter raising on the back of the bow.
Hope this helps. Best of luck.
Regards
-------------------- "Walk softly...and carry a bent stick."
"And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ, giving thanks to God the Father through him." Col. 3:17 Posts: 1172 | From: Nebraska | Registered: Aug 2009
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Happy so far the way its turning out. 68" 67"NTN 1 3/4 Fades to 1/2" tips, and 1/2" profile. Shot 20 arrows at about 26" 27" has taken about 1" of set. I have no scale thinking its around 40+lbs. my brace is at 7 7/8 is that to high? Thanks for looking, Could use some advice [img] [IMG]http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/about1inchset.jpg [/img][/IMG]
Hope the pix copy here it go's Thanks Chuck Posts: 104 | From: Salmon Arm BC, Canada | Registered: May 2006
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Thanks for sharing, Chuck. Although the pictures look small, it looks as if it's a well-built bow. I really like the riser...much better than the one in the buildalong. I would say that the brace height is much too high, though. You'll shorten the life, increase the set, and/or decrease the efficiency of the bow with a brace height that high. Got any full draw pics? Again, NICE job!
-------------------- "Walk softly...and carry a bent stick."
"And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ, giving thanks to God the Father through him." Col. 3:17 Posts: 1172 | From: Nebraska | Registered: Aug 2009
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Going to try this again. Hope the pix are not to large now. [img] [IMG]http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/Red%20Oak%20Board%20Bow/IMG_01371.jpg [/img][/IMG] [img] [IMG]http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/Red%20Oak%20Board%20Bow/IMG_0146.jpg [/img][/IMG] [img] [IMG]http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/Red%20Oak%20Board%20Bow/IMG_0154.jpg [/img][/IMG] Still want to paper back the bow, handle wrap and work on the brace height. Thanks Crg
Posts: 104 | From: Salmon Arm BC, Canada | Registered: May 2006
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About what brace height would you recommend for a bow the same specs as the build along?
Posts: 29 | From: Alaska | Registered: Mar 2011
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here is what i did with this build along it is 72 inch tip to tip about 40lbs it is red oak and it is 2 1/4 wide i did make the handle section longer to fit my big mits in it but it shoots good and it was fun. when i took the pics i did notice that the upper limb has a week spot in it and i can see how i could of tillered it different so i can get more wood and make a better one next time. thanks for this buildalong and all the info on here Posts: 64 | From: Brigham Utah | Registered: Mar 2009
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Nice looking bow stretch. What thickness did you limbs end up being? I want to make one of these 2-1/4" wide and I'm trying to get an idea what thickness I should shoot for to get 55#@28". Thanks
Posts: 29 | From: Alaska | Registered: Mar 2011
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I just finished my red oak bow. I followed 4est build along but did make some changes. See my specs a few post back and 4est answers. So got an old bathroom scale and got some approx weights
40# @ 28" 45# 29" 47# @ 30"
So I did the full 1/2" thick for the entire length of the bow like 4est suggested. Over 100+ shots so far My first shots I only pulled around 24" for awhile now i'm up to full draw between 29-30". Its going to a 3d shoot this coming weekend we'll see if it holds up. Oh by the way my brace height is at 7 1/4 now. Take care, Crg
Posts: 104 | From: Salmon Arm BC, Canada | Registered: May 2006
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