Shooters Forum

Contribute to Trad Gang
Become a Trad Gang Sponsor







Trad Gang.com Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply
MY PROFILE | directory login | register | search | FAQ | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Shooters FORM Forum » switching from 3under to split

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!    
Author Topic: switching from 3under to split
Ari_Bonn
CONTRIBUTOR 2018
Member # 45608

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Ari_Bonn   Email Ari_Bonn   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I started shooting 2 years ago roughly and I have always shot 3 under. Recently I have started to experiment with split and I have noticed that there is a significant difference in the feel of the draw( smoother/lighter? from the limbs being more equally bent?) and my release is cleaner along with the bow being more quiet( again tiller thing?)

I think I want to switch to shooting split but I am not used to the lower arrow position in relation to my eye.

Is there any disadvantage ( back tension wise) simply anchoring my middle finger to the corner of mouth or higher so its more like shooting 3 under?

Posts: 175 | From: Canada, BC | Registered: Nov 2016  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
YosemiteSam
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 45388

Icon 1 posted      Profile for YosemiteSam   Email YosemiteSam   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Everybody is different. There's only one way to find out if it disadvantages you -- try it and see. For me, the lower my draw arm is on my face, the easier I can maintain good back tension. Anchoring with my index finger on my nose gives me small gaps but I get sloppy after 10-15 shots. As a kid, I shot compounds mostly with a tab, split finger, with an olympic-style chin anchor. Gaps were so big it seemed pointless & I used sights. I love how it feels. But I can't shoot that way without sights since gaps are measured in feet. So it's a perpetual compromise.

--------------------
"A good hunter...that's somebody the animals COME to."
"Every animal knows way more than you do." -- by a Koyukon hunter, as quoted by R. Nelson.

Posts: 616 | From: CA | Registered: Sep 2016  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
reddogge
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 17294

Icon 1 posted      Profile for reddogge   Author's Homepage   Email reddogge   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
No, most split finger shooters I know including me anchor with the middle finger in corner of mouth or higher. You just learn to do it.

--------------------
PBS Reg member 1973
Maryland Bowhunters Society
Traditional Bowhunters of Maryland
Heart of Maryland Bowhunters
NRA

Posts: 5003 | From: Finksburg, MD | Registered: Aug 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wolftrail
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 41211

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Wolftrail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I will only shoot 3 under using a glass recurve, my Wood bows are not tillered for that so I shoot them split. 3 under places to much stress on the bottom limb.
Posts: 726 | From: BC, Canada | Registered: Mar 2014  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
MPaul
Member
Member # 46609

Icon 1 posted      Profile for MPaul   Email MPaul   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I shoot split finger. Have played around with 3 under I don't think it matters much.its what you are comfortable with the key is a good anchor point I don't like the corner of mouth moves too much. I like something solid like the cheek bone. Multiple anchor points are preferred like maybe lower finger on corner of mouth and upper finger on cheek bone. Everyone's face is different find what worked for you.
Posts: 34 | From: Missouri | Registered: Sep 2017  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jim Casto Jr
Contributor 2014
Member # 3606

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Jim Casto Jr   Email Jim Casto Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
The tiller discussion comes up quite often and IMO it just isn't that important--unless we're talking about a self bow or a VERY short glass laminated bow.

All bows have tiller. It usually ranges from 1/4" positive to 1/8" negative.

Think of like this--maybe, to get an idea of the perfect tiller for the individual archer.

Imagine two doors on a wall; now, slam the doors shut. If they slam shut at the same time, there is little noise or vibration. Let one door slam at a different time than the other and you get noise and vibration. The idea is to make adjustments so the doors (limbs) shut at the same time. It's more about timing than actual tiller.

Raising and lowering your nocking point will change the timing; raising and lowering the shelf/rest will change the timing; heeling the grip will change the timing and putting more pressue in the web of your hand will change the timing.

There's too many variables to claim a bow is tillered for split or 3-under, etc. Most times you can simply tune the bow and shoot it without issue.

--------------------
"Archery is really very simple. You just have to do the exact same thing on every shot."
Bill Leslie, July 22, 2017

"Form is everything."
Al Cole, June 7, 2008

Posts: 1204 | From: WV | Registered: May 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

Quick Reply ~ PLEASE THINK BEFORE YOU POST! - Is your post trad bowhunting related? Check the FAQ or EMAIL if you're unsure!
Message:

HTML is not enabled.
UBB Code™ is enabled.

Instant Graemlins
   


Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Shoot On Over To:


Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | Privacy Statement

Copyright 2003 thru 2017 ~ Trad Gang.com ©

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.1