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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: 58WINTERS on January 25, 2016, 04:15:00 PM
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I have a new 66" 52@27 HH wes. spec. Shooting 35/55
GT 29 bop 250gr up front arrows impacting left 12" @ 20yds wear on sight window strike plate is to belly side. These arrows work perfectly out of my other wes spec 55 @28 and 50 @28 that are 68" bows I pull 27" do I need to go up or down in spine?? Other thoughts.
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Hill's are not even cut close to center so they do like a lighter spine.I had a similar problem with a longbow cut off center.Your arrows are showing stiff with a 250 gr. upfront.How do they shoot with say a 125 gr. upfront? Carbons recover much faster from the paradox then other types of arrows.Your arrows are bouncing off the riser instead of flexing around it.My arrows acted the same way and got worse the more weight I added.I had thought too with showing stiff to add more weight upfront would weaken the spine but it didn't.But with a Hill lightening up the point reduces your overall arrow weight which makes an arrow lighter then I like to shoot out of my Hill's.You need a weaker static spine or longer arrow.I have tuned carbons to my Hill,but have come to prefer aluminum or wood.The spines seems to work better and has enough weight too them.
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Out of a 66" 50@26 Tembo,I can shoot GT 35-55 29 bop with 175gr point up front. Flies very well and even bareshafts good. I think you are getting a false reading.
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I have some 1916 29 bop I can play with. I just find it interesting (read frustrating) that 2" in bow length would be significant since the poundage at my draw is so close. I shoot in the mid 220's on a 300 round with the 55@28 with the carbons. the new bow groups well just way off line.
58
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GRS
Are you thinking stiffer maybe?? I have the light weight points to play with as well but I want a heavier arrow. they are 545 gr now, maybe have to break out the alum and woodies for this bow.
58
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1916's may work,I shot 1916's out of a 53#@27 Elburg.I shoot a 2016 with a 145 gr. out of my 55#@27 HH Half Breed.The carbons I had tuned to my Hill were Axis and were 30.5" long.The closer the point weight is to the riser especially one cut as far off center as a Hill.It can give you a false reading or shoot left for a RH shooter.A lighter point may work better with the arrows you have but that is going to be a lightweight arrow well under 500 grs.
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I dunno. Seems your arrows should fly OK out of that bow, particularly since they fly well out of other Hills of about the same weight.
The two-inch shorter length really doesn't have anything to do with it. Did you check the actual draw weight of your new bow? Hills are usually heavier than marked, but every now and then, they come out lighter than marked.
Is the amount of centershot, or lack thereof the same? I.e., is your new bow cut the same or might your new bow be even more proud of center?
Finally, might your brace height be too low? A brace height that's too low will cause the shafts to bounce off the riser and give a false stiff reading? 6 1/2 inches is the minimum I set my Hills at, and most shoot better for me at 6 3/4 inches.
Some things to ponder/check if changes in point weight don't do it. Good luck.
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My Hills all seem to like fairly light spined arrows. I shoot only wood, so I don't know about your carbon arrows. As stated above, they are not cut to center.
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I was able to shoot a little last night after a prior commitment. 1916 W/250 same as the GT 35/55 w/250. I tried some 2016 28 BOP with 250gr 610gr total wght. which moved poi to the right dramatically it apparently wants a stiffer spine also dropped nock pt 1/8 and brace from 6-5/8 to 6-3/4 I nock on top. Checking bow weight tonight.
Looks like a false reading from the GT's and 1916.
I'll report back.
Thanks again
58
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Final update
Bow scales 54 @ 27 on digital scale.
I draw 27. Bow likes GT 55/75 29 bop std insert 250 gr 5-1/2 shield 3 fletch. Total arrow weight 574 gr.
Thanks everyone.