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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Tedd on February 21, 2016, 03:07:00 PM
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I got a 1966 kodak the other day. Still had what appears to be the original string.
I'm assuming the bow should only have Dacron or B50/B55 correct?
How many stands?
Thank you,
Tedd
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What poundage? most likely 14-16 strands will do the job.......and yes I would use B-50 or B-55.
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58@28 drawn to 31".
So 67lb.
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Most folks report good success with ff on old bows IF the loops are padded. That's up to you though if the risk is worth the reward. I would say 14 strands of b55 would be plenty for that bow.
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Just read a recent discussion on *********** the other day on this very topic. Several had used skinny FF strings with padded loops without issues. Most reported good speed increases and quieter shooting due to less string vibration. Ultimately its up to you though.
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Modern bowyers who still offer their bows either way, with or without fast flight, like Schafer, will do some extra work on the limb tips for their fast flight option. I would guess that the fast flight option adds a little weight to the limb tips, which would take away some of the performance if you didn't intend to a use fast flight string. Alternatively, they feel like they need the extra support in the limb tips if a fast flight string is going to be used.
It's often possible to get away with something a product wasn't designed for, but I have to ask myself, "why?" I have 3 Kodiaks from the 50's, 60's, and 70's, and I would never shoot them with anything other than a dacron string. I bought them as representative of that period of time, and I want them to perform as they were designed to perform.
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Even if FF can be used on an older bow, mine won't be shot with it. Their value to me is way more than a few fps gained. High risk, low reward for me and mine so it is a no go on my old bows. If the string doesn't give as much with FF then the vibration shock either goes into the arrow or the limbs, or both. Old bow = old glue.
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There are lots of variables to consider. I can't say with 100% certainty it will destroy a given bow, but I can say it's not worth the risk to me.
A shorter draw length, lighter draw weight, better built bow, longer bow, etc. would probably hold up longer.
It reminds me of several years ago when B-75 and PENN 66 were on the market. Some folks thought they were great, some folks blew up bows. I remember being referred to as pretty much everything but smart and honest for voicing concerns, but ultimately both were taken off the market.
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Settled. Makes good sense Mcdave. B55 ordered from lost nation.
Tedd
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I have many say they use FF on older bows with good result. It is strictly a matter of choice. Some will be just fine, and some will not.
Personally, I have seen the end of a limb blow off when using FF on a bow that wasn't designed for it.
For me, it is not worth the risk.
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I am also apprehensive of putting it on a bow that is irreplaceable. However I am going to try it on my old 72 grizz, They are pretty easily replaced. Several respectable guys on LW had shot it for 7-8 years though with good results. I am not so much worried about more speed as I am quietness. That means much more than a few FPS to me. My .02
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I've been using low stretch strings on my vintage bows for a half-dozen years with good results. In my opinion, your long draw is going to pose a greater threat to the (relatively short for the draw length) bow's viability than a low-stretch string. On the other hand, those old Bears are pretty durable. Let us know how it works out. Good luck.
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Correct...Not worth the risk
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Could it be that really old tip overlays and glues simply come apart when their day finally arrives, God help the poor soul who happened to have a FF string on the bow.
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Forgot to mention, I'd use B-55 rather than B-50. Still polyester (Dacron), still safe for any bow, but a higher quality polyester with a little less stretch and creep.
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66 kodiak has 5 layers of glass on the tips - I have no problem shooting a 10 or 12 strand d97 string on mine. It is certainly not a high risk low reward choice. I would consider it more like low risk medium reward.
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Risk verses a small reward. So for me, who shoots five 54 to 57 year old Bears and a "Head" Red Wing Hunter, the four to five color B-50 strings by Bearbowman do me just fine.
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Shaun Webb built me a skinny string with low stretch a number of years ago. Padded the loops, and proceeded to "force" :biglaugh: me to put it on a very special '59 Grizzly. After 100's and 100's of shots, she's still quite snappy. Yes, the tips were re'done by me with Glass, and NO, I wouldn't put just any FF string on her. Trust your string maker to build you the correct string, and go have fun!
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Speed has nothing to do with using FF it's how the bow feels, NO hand shock. I use FF on my 74-75 Bear Grizzly and it's like a different bow on how it feels/shoots.
When you use B50 and your bow tips split or the bows come apart I just it's just and old bow and it was time or bad manufacturer. But when some use FF and it breaks they are real quick to blame it on FF strings.
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She stacks pretty hard after 29"-30". I draw 31". I guess I need a 64".
I'll probably put this one up for sale.
Tedd
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Whittler, I agree that when a bow fails, usually the first question asked is "what kind of string was on it", and if it's a high performance material it often gets the blame. However, I have seen bows damaged by the string. Some failures are questionable, some there is no doubt. I also agree that HMPE materials aren't about speed/performance. The other benefits are so great that I'd use them if they were slower.
4runr, there's more to it than just how the string is made. The string definitely needs to be made correctly, but the string grooves on a "FF" rated bow are cut at an angle, and the tips reinforced. Every old bow I've looked at had the string grooves cut straight across, and that makes a difference.
I don't know how some folks get away with it and others don't. Guess it's like some folks who smoke and live to be 100, or some drive like a maniac and never get a speeding ticket...others aren't so lucky.
There definitely is a risk, and how much of a risk it is depends on a ton of variables.
For me, it's an easy solution. I don't have any bows I'm willing to risk it with, and even if I did I don't want to risk any knots on my head or splinters in my hand, so I only use HMPE materials on bows built for it.
Chad
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History, bows weren't built for a certain string material.
This bow could have been only drawn to 27", thru it's life. Stood in the corner of a closet, dry fired 4 times by Dad! History!
H.P. strings don't break bows, people do!