Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Journeymen on February 22, 2016, 12:01:00 PM
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I had picked up two schafer recerve bows and had jumped up in bow weight to 60 pounds. Since I had 4 dozen 250 carbon express made up with my last 50 pound bow. The arrows are showing weak, even with dropping point weight from 250 to 200 grains and shorting up shaft as much as possible. Also would like too keep my arrow weight to min of 650 grain . I was thinking of adding an external footing over carbon arrows (2216 alumumin for a few reasons) . Didn't want to have to purchase new arrows / also it would increase arrow spine /higher FOC along with strengthening ferrule point . Was wondering if anyone has experimented with footed arrows. Would the external footing effect arrow flight , if the footed area is drawn over and onto shelf rest.
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It may be an annoyance, and you would want to bevel the back edge of the footings so they slide onto the shelf without catching, but the footings shouldn't affect arrow flight if the arrow is tuned to the bow.
Drawing the footing onto the shelf will also have the effect of moving the center of the arrow farther from the center of the bow (as if you built out the side plate). That would generally require a weaker arrow, but since your arrows are weak to begin with, it may help in the tune.
May need to raise your nock point a tad, but once the string is released, the arrow no longer touches the bow.
Make one up and see how it works. Good luck.
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All of my carbon arrows are double footed (2216/2413). They add a small amount of weight up front, and don't affect spine. There is also no issue with them leaving the shelf on release.
You would have to foot those arrows with 7-10" of 2216 to stiffen them up.
If i was in your shoes i would build up the strike plate 1/8" at a time to stiffen up the spine.
What is the length of your arrows VON to BOP? I may have some GT75/95's for you to play with.
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Orion I didn't take in account for centre of arrow with dia change along with possible knocking point . Thanks .
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Daz. I didn't realize I would have to add 7 to 10 inches to stiffen the spine on the footings . I was thinking when tuning arrow to bow we always only cut 1/8 to 1/4 " off to stiffen spine. My bare shift hits about 8" to the left of the fetched arrows . I will try to build out the shelf and try them. My arrow lenght I shoot is 30 1/4 , before I cut 6 arrows back to 29 1/2 to try to stiffen as much as possible. Thanks
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Taking off from the 2nd post, you can always put a pivot point behind the side plate material and eat up "weak" spine pretty quick.
I used to layer electrician tape on till arrows flew good, then peel off and mike thickness and add that behind the sideplate material...bada bing!
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Doc nock. Good idea . I could try the tape and then use my micrometer to check thickness . Thanks
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Originally posted by Journeymen:
Daz. I didn't realize I would have to add 7 to 10 inches to stiffen the spine on the footings . I was thinking when tuning arrow to bow we always only cut 1/8 to 1/4 " off to stiffen spine. My bare shift hits about 8" to the left of the fetched arrows . I will try to build out the shelf and try them. My arrow lenght I shoot is 30 1/4 , before I cut 6 arrows back to 29 1/2 to try to stiffen as much as possible. Thanks
Someone with an engineering background could probably explain why it is, but i sure can't. All i know is i have added footing up to 5" without any noticeable spine changes, yet like you said, when i have cut as little as 1/4" off i can see changes. My footings are 1 1/2" 2216 with 1" 2413.
I also noticed that when i was building aluminum frankenarrows to shoot out of one of my heavier longbows a few years back (2219's with 12" of 2413 as footing).
You shoot arrows in the same length as i do. I have a few that are too short i would have been willing to donate to the cause if they would have worked for you.
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The change will be slight, but you may be able to pick up a little stiffness by adding weight to the rear of the arrow. Depending on what fletching you're using now, you can increase feather length, add a collar, and add a wrap. Not goikng to make a huge change, but if you get close, that little bit of change might make the difference.
I notice quite a bit of difference between a 30" shaft with just 3x3" fletching and the same shaft with 3x5" fletching and a One Stringer wrap with the Double Dog over-wrap.
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How did you ugys figure out which size aluminum you needed? I have CE 150's and want to try footing a couple.
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Originally posted by Grabwad:
How did you ugys figure out which size aluminum you needed? I have CE 150's and want to try footing a couple.
The venerable Mr. Lamb took care of it:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000098
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Thanks!!
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Bladepeeks . I am currently using 51/2 " feather with wrap , however I could add a collar to save the knock end . Something I can concider adding . Thanks
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Daz . Thanks for the offer of 7595, may still take you up with your offer, trying the 7595. The 7595 would be my next option if all else fails. I will return the favour with sending a few 145 journeymen broadheads I have left, now known as the eclipse broadheads. The gold tips works out to be one of the best options, when I run it through Three Rivers calculator.
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Where do you guys get your footings? Anyplace I can buy 1 or 2 aluminum shafts?
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Originally posted by Grabwad:
Where do you guys get your footings? Anyplace I can buy 1 or 2 aluminum shafts?
Lancaster Archery Supply sells in singles. I have purchased from them before. Here is a link, but if you navigate around a little you will probably find what you are looking for.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/arrows/arrow-shafts-mto-arrows/target.html?material=327
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Grabwad. You could try your local achery shop . Once you know what size of shaft you need for your arrow . Ask them if they can save some short pieces that have been cut off.
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I don't think footing will work to stiffen up your shafts the extra weight tends to cancel out whatever stiffness you get. You could drop to 175 point weight, lower the brace height, increase your strike plate thickness, or an often over looked way would be to add weight to the nock end of the arrow.