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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: nhbuck1 on December 15, 2016, 03:06:00 PM
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so i have my bareshafts flying well with 340 spine arrows and 200 grain heads, i shoot the fletched sometimes they shoot to left of barehaft which shows weak and it cant be with a 34 spine on a 54pound bow, the bareshaft is saying nock high can this be effecting my rrow flight causing it to go left?
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Are you left handed? Arrows grouping to the left for a right handed shooter could indicate a stiff arrow shaft.
Bisch
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yes im right handed. i thought arrows grouping left of bareshafts is weak?
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Knock left would be weak, grouping left would be stiff.
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the chart online says weak shaft if fletched group left of bareshaft
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what if the bareshaft is going straight then all of a sudden drops down
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i also notice my last 2 inches of arrow wrap on the bottom of arrow is getting worn
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Kyle, you been going in circles for a while on this. For a right handed shooter, nock left means weak( think arrow flies downrange nock left,the point will strike the target to the right of bullseye) If you get nock right, that means stiff(arrow flies downrange nock right and point will strike to the left of bullseye) If your spine is way off you will or can get opposite readings. Think about this if you get your field tips hitting were you want them and your broadheads arrows are grouping to the right of the field tip arrows you may be weak in spine (cut arrow shorter or reduce BH weight) if BH are grouping to the left of field tip arrows you could be stiff (try heavier bh or heavier inserts or increase brace height on bow) If you go to A&H the have O.L. Adcocks tuning method
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What length arrow are you shooting? Inserts? Draw length? Fast flight or B50? Shelf or elevated rest? How much left are we talking about -- feet or inches?
Bareshaft dropping at last minute is probably nock high -- though it could bounce off the riser (nock low). I usually tolerate some nock high as long as it's minimal.
I resolved to never make any assumptions until I have 3 consecutive days of consistent data and about 50 serious arrows downrange per day. The overall trend will reveal itself over time. But any individual day could be nothing more than statistical noise.
Sometimes, it's not even worth messing with. Yesterday, I noticed that my arrows were grouping right about 8-9" at 25 yards. They flew perfectly and consistently (10" group -- good for me at that range with no clicker and opposite hand) but just off a bit. This was a new combo of wood shafts from a selfbow and 30# limbs for my recurve. Rather than mess with length, tip weight, etc., I just held the nock ever so slightly askew of my eye and it corrected right out. Backed up to 30 yards & still on-target. Problem solved.
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I love seeing your posts....nothing like someone becoming a 'student of the game'.
Get it and growl sir!!!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSJ6-HjPMTM
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Tuning is a very good thing to do--- well worth the time and effort, however you first must develop solid repeatable form. I've been reading your posts and think you would save yourself much frustration if you had someone that could properly analyze your form give you some feedback. I know there are several gentlemen on this site including Arne Moe that are good at this and kind enough to watch video and give feedback. Your tuning could be an indication of form issues, if so then no amount of tuning will tell you which arrow you need.
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im tuning based on impact, my fletched arrows are grouping to the left of bareshaft group this says weak online what could be causing my black and white tiger pattern wraps to wear on the bottom? i went back to paper and it showed stiff with the 200 grain head i went to a 250 grain and it seemed to cure the left and right problem, its just strange because i thought fletched arrows grouping left of bareshaft means weak on what im seeing online
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Fletched arrows grouping left of bareshaft means your shafts are weak.
I prefer a slightly weak shaft over a stiff shaft personally.
When you add fletching to the arrow it stiffens them up and if you short draw or are tired a weaker shaft is more forgiving.
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Your wraps wearing on the bottom would indicate the arrow bouncing off the shelf. This could be a nock height issue, a release/finger pressure issue, or a combination of the two.
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now how come when i put heavier point on my arrow is not hitting left?
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also could the arrow hitting shelf caue left right issues?
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I would isolate one issue and solve it, then move to the next. If your arrow is hitting the shelf, you need to solve that first. Good luck.
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does this mean to high usually?
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Not always, raise nock height and if it gets worse you know you went wrong way. However you should have picked up the nock issue with the paper tune.
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paper tune says nock is fine but shaft is dipping way low when shot
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Sorry, I thought your fletched arrows were flying left of your intended target. Then they would have been stiff. According to Ken Beck's video (Black Widow) on tuning.
Adcock says bare shafts grouping a little low and right at twenty yards is perfect as fletching will stiffen them a bit.
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i would like to shoot some heavy weight up front thats why i went to a 340 spine, why would arow fly better witha 250 grain head versus the 200 even if 200 is impacting left of bareshafts?
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If your arrows are hitting to the left of "the line" That does indicate a stiff arrow and the nocks may be leaning right as well.With an experienced archer. Now if Fletched arrows are grouping to the left of bare shaft groups the arrow is week. You are absolutely right. The optimum word is grouping. You can't mix up the difference in bare and fletch grouping with where you are hitting the target. The comparison is for tuning in your case, where you hit is all on you. You also said sometimes they hit left. Pay no attention to sometimes,only groups count. Even if both bare and fletched groups are hitting way left or way right. That is on you. It is the comparison between groups that show stiff or week. It sounds like you need to quit pulling your hair out over tuning and just shoot for a while. It is hard to explain but you have your facts right. I wish I could post pictures or sketches it would be much easier. Page 6 of-- Easton Arrow Tuning Guide-- - has a picture. Surely there are some on line. Just enjoy shooting for a while it will all come together one day. Ken
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Kyle, you're trying to solve a lot of things at once; that's a sure fire way to add frustration. Does your shelf show wear, along with wear on the wraps? That's likely to be nock height, bow grip, or finger pressure distribution on the string. It's not spine or point weight.
Where are your silencers? Your broad heads hitting low, as I recall... try moving your lower silencer up a little higher on the string.
FIRST, though - try adjusting the form issues, one thing at a time, and see how that affects the issue. And try to solve one issue before jumping to another. That's just how it works. Patience and persistence.
It's supposed to be enjoyable.