Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: RGKulas on March 06, 2017, 09:20:00 AM
-
I want to refletch these 3 dozen Cedars. I dont want to damage the shafts. What your method of taking off old feathers from woodies?
-
Take your time and don't use a super sharp knife. I use a full pocket knife when removing feathers from arrows. You have to go slow or you'll ruin the arrow. Not really an easy process. For me anyway.
-
Best way I've found is to just build another set.
-
Im not going to scrap 3 dozen full length "32" never used (never tapered) cedars just because its difficult to refletch. Im looking for solutions not discouragement.
-
I use fresh razor blades and just take my time. Don't get in a rush or you'll make a mess. There's a great article on refinishing old arrows in the last issue of TBM.
-
Once you get them off Ron, I would go with tape, as it makes replacement next time easier.
-
Its the getting off of the old feathers that Im hoping somebody has an earth shattering easy and fool proof method. I dont look forward to removing 108 feathers with a razor knife but so far, thats what Im faced with before I can refletch.
-
No foolproof way to do it Ron. I run a knife blade under the feather, often times leaving a little bit of quill. Then I take a file or piece of sanding paper on a stick and file off the rest of the quill and glue.
Need to be careful with the knife as it's easy to cut into the wood and begin lifting a sliver. That pretty much ruins the shaft.
Regardless, even if you refletch over the same quill areas with the same type clamp and spiral or offset, there will be some bare spots on either side of the quill that won't look too good.
I've never tried one of those bent arm tools designed for removing feathers. Looks like they would work well on carbon or aluminum, but not so good on woodies. Maybe someone has tried one on woodies and can report on it.
Another way to go at it is to tape off the crown dip area and after you've cut away most of the quill, take some Zip Strip or similar product to the crown area. It will remove everything and you can recrown dip and fletch. Of course, it's messy and will also soften/ruin the nocks. But on old arrows, they should probably be replaced anyway.
-
Yes I have a few of those tools that have the bent arm as Orion talked about. I've tried them on wood but I think I ruined to many. I wouldn't recommend one because it's hard to get the exact right angle and if you hit a sliver your screwed.
-
I used "Aircraft Stripper" to strip the whole shaft. The gel stuff that is environmentally correct would not faze the automotive enamel used. It's messy, need heavy rubber gloves and a bunch of old rags. Same way I did aluminum before as well.
When the shafts are dry agian a light sanding with 220 grit sand paper and ready to go.
Remember, 40 years ago we used a lot of automotive paints and Fletch Laq lacquer on our arrows. On woods we used the auto paints so Ducco was our glue choice.
I get the Aircraft Stripper at auto paint store. Big box home stores used to have it as well unless your in CA.
-
While we are trying things. Take something that is curved, like the blade from one of those tools they spoke of above or a slice from piece of tubing. File the front so there is no edge and slides across the wood nicely.
Now from the inside of the curve, file or grind an edge just in the middle, maybe 3/16" wide. Leave the rest flat or better..rounded. Maybe mark the upper part with marker to guide you in use.
By grinding it up, it appears that it would be just above the wood, but still take off most of the feather. At least, it sure seems like it to me.
Make a really nifty handle to hold it better and there ya go.
-
If you used duco, that will soften with hot tap water.
Then remove feather with a dull knife.
Have to let that dry before you can refletch.
-
I have used a potato pealer with great success. Have used it on wood, carbon and aluminum and never had a problem. I just place the blade under the frond lip of the feather's quill and drag it towards the arrow-nock. Just repeat until it's gone and on to the next fletch. It isn't an instant solution but I've never nicked any shaft material this way.
-
I take an exacto knife with a fresh blade and run it along each side cutting through the glue. Then starts at the point end and lift back toward the nock.
-
I use lacquer thinner to soften the glue.
-
I have a very DULL pocket knife in my bow box that I use exclusively to remove fletching. It can be done, take your time.
-
Somebody posted they dipped/soaked shafts in acetone. The feathers were reusable according to the poster. Cresting came off and after drying he steel wooled the shaft, crowned and fletched. I have not tried it, so...if you test a shaft, let us know.
-
I can tell you acetone works great on aluminum arrows. I needed to remove plastic vanes from a bunch of aluminum arrows I picked up. Manually removing with a blade always left a lot of shiny scars on the shaft and traces of plastic. I started soaking them in a big jar of acetone. It takes a little time but it will lift off the fletch and remove all traces of fletching glue and leave the shaft looking pristine. However, it will also completely soften a plastic nock and melt plastic vanes. That didn't bother me as I just replaced the nocks and refletched with feathers.
Never tried it with wood arrows. I can see where a feather would probably hold up to this treatment and be reusable when dry. Also need to be aware that soaking in acetone will remove/destroy any finish on that portion of a wood arrow.
-
I have used MEK instead of acetone. It's harsher but much faster. If you have a plastic Nock on the arrow it will dissolve into nothing and you'll have to re taper and glue the Nock back on. Same for any type of finish, cresting or marks on the shaft. Acetone will produce the same results, only takes longer. I much prefer to strip them with the tater pealer...
-
Use a utility knife, and get a package of the carpet blades. They are about like the gut hook on a hunting knife and do a very nice job as long as you don't get too aggressive.
-
Obviously not your current arrows but for the future just slap inexpensive arrow wraps on them. When its time to re fletch boil up some water and steam the wraps they come off super easy.
-
I know it does not help you in the immediate but if you fletch with bohning fletching tape getting them off couldn't be easier. I have been using it for years and I've not had one come off until I removed it either.
-
What Shadowhunter said, X2.
-
I have re-done many old Bear wood arrows. Most of the time I can get the old feather off by using my thumb nail and then scrape with a dull knife. A sharp knife can catch the wood and then you are done. I also have a gizmo that saunders put out that I use. Can't give the actual name of it right now as I am gone from home.
I then use Min wax refinisher to get all the old paint and finish off. works real good and does not harm the wood.
There are a lot of good old wood arrows out there than can be brought back to use.
-
Yep, Jon is correct, old wood is good!
-
Just glue large uncut feathers between them, and ad to the flu flu barrel. Squirells need hunting too.
-
Best method is to make those squirrel arrows and make some new ones, really!
-
I have always used a knife, no problems.
As far as messing up the crown or crest, just battle scars!
Thinking if you used a hot iron, soldering iron, run along the top of quill? Soften the glue?
-
Originally posted by kstout:
I use lacquer thinner to soften the glue.
I've done this and it works pretty good. They knife off pretty easily after the glue is soft. Good luck!
-
Thanks to all the guys who contributed suggestions of substance regarding removing old fletching from woodies. The knife (used with care) is working just fine. This batch of 36 arrows (which have never been shot and are still 32" long) will be reborn as beautiful arrows.
-
I've had good luck with the serated blade on my Leatherman. Like others said, go slowly so you don't get into the shaft. A heat gun will soften the glue some to make the job easier.
Denny
-
The cocker spaniel that i had, when we would shoot at a rabbit or pheasant. Would charge after the arrow, then very quickly rip off a feather, rotate the shaft and do it again, until all the feathers were removed and then bring back the arrow to who ever shot it. Only a light scraping and sanding to remove what was left for refletching.
-
Yeah, I've used several ways, but lacquer thinner won't hurt wood. Make a dip tube of a piece of pipe longer than the cap dip or fletch, thread on a cap and figure out how long to leave it in to soften the glue. I don't soak them in it, as I suppose it could dry out the wood cells. Same thing would work with stripper, maybe w/o risk of drying out the wood. But I've not seen any weakening of shafts from either material.
-
depending on glue...i have removed them with steam or very hot water.
also removed some with knife blade but will either leave some quill or remove some shaft.
past few years I rarely if ever re-fletch old shaft. I just relegate them to arrows I shoot for small game, or sharing with others trying to learn with one of my extra bows. anymore, I dont even refletch if I lose a portion or an entire fletch...for short distances I typically hunt I have not found a huge difference if arrows are matched to bow. My last hog I shot with arrow that only had 2 and 1/4 fletch on it...and the fletching was damp. Flew true to 12+ yards and complete penetration.
Dont sweat the small stuff....
Sounds like excuse to buy some raw shafts and make up another dozen... :)