Trad Gang
Topic Archives => How To - Resources => Topic started by: Walkingstick on January 21, 2004, 10:58:00 PM
-
I am sure that title will roll a few eyes but a few weeks ago I was Meathook's guest along with a bunch of tradgangers for a bunny hunt. As is a practice with me when I am a guest of someone I try to give them a little something when I meet them and more especially if it is the first time. I was first to arrive and got to visit some with Don before the gang arrived. When we went out to shoot a little I asked him to try some arrows I had made for him for that day basing it on his bow weight and draw alone. They were underspined terribly so I told him I would make up another dozen and get them to him. Later I found out he was going to hunt pigs down on 4nolz's place so I told him I would make some pig stickin arras. then Calvin gets that pretty little gal of his to model these arras for Uncle Mike so now I know I got to work hard to make these special cuz I ain't got no pretty lil model like he has workin for me. I drove over to Allegeny Arrowwoods in Coudersport and asked Bill Boncarz to help me with these arras. I told him that hook told me he shoots a 50#+- bow weight with a 29 inch BOP spined to 60-65 and 125 grain points. Bill drug out a dozen laminated birch shafts coming in at 540 grains at 32 inches or about 17 grains to the inch. I then picked up some nocks and field points and a half dozen grizzly heads at 125 grain. I know Hook favors Wensel Woodsman and I have some of those if I find them but I favor those grizzly heads cuz I like how the fly and the do mean stuff inside an animal. They are a trick to sharpen though. So I a going to build these arras on here for all to see cuz meat told me I can make them however I am moved and tonight I started moving. Follow along over the next few days and watch these arrows develope. This way some newbie can see it done another way.
-
cool but tell me what in the heck the thread title means? :confused:
-
Most bows are named after they are finished but I wanted a name for these arrows and I did a little research. I dug out my Book of Indian Crafts and Indian Lore by Julian Harris Solomon copyright 1928 and published by Harper and Row. I found what I wanted on page 386. Hook lives in New York or Iriquois country so I named his arrows Daka rih' hon tye which in Iriquois language means Silent Messenger so each arrow will be inscribed with that name.
-
Patience Mr. Lotz. You read too fast and I type real slow.
-
Way to cool. Mac love the name!!!!! That alone should have the piggies trembling.
As I said it certainly wasn't necessary or expected but appreciated they will be. :thumbsup: At least by me the pigs may not be too thrilled by them. :D
-
We are starting with laminated birch shafts that are actually somewhat like plywood arrows. The birch is laminated in layers of criss crossed grain for strength and then dowelled and made into shafts. You can see the layers in the photo. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah1.JPG)
-
I then took out my Woodchuck Grinder and proceeded to taper the nock ends of the shafts. Here you see the squared shaft approaching the sanding disk and then you see it being sanded to its pointed taper.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah2.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah3.JPG)
-
Then I slide on a fluorescent nock because I can see through the nock and tell how well the taper is seating in the nock. It needs to be seated properly and to be sqare when glued on.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah4.JPG)
-
Next I cut the shafts to length using my cutoff saw. This way my arrows are all exactly the same length. I have allowed for the point taper and the small amount the nock adds. I then simply rotate the wooden shafts into the abrasive wheel.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah5.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah6.JPG)
-
Great thread Walkingstick!! Can't wait to see what you will come up with to compete with Calvin's little girl . :D
-
You can see that when I add the nock and the point the distance BOP or behind the point is 29 inches from the nock throat to the back of the point.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah7.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah8.JPG)
-
Mac, don't sweat the little girl. I got one of those and she is cute as a bugs ear so I will shovel off the deck put her in a dress and a cuter arrow model you will not find. :readit:
-
Now we have a dozen shafts tapered on both ends and the same exact length. I like to taper before I stain and finish so that there is no little gap of unfinished shaft where the tapers are made and the nock or point applied.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah9.JPG)
-
Next we stain using yellow and orange rit dye mixed with denatured alcohol. Laminated birch is glued together so I try to avoid water based stains. The glue may be water proof but without knowing I take no chances. I made a shade similar to osage and apply it with a cotton swab and latex gloves.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah10.JPG) (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah11.JPG)
-
When he is done I will have him send me or I will go get the pics as well and put them on the tradgang server so they are here with the thread. :thumbsup:
-
Now we have stained shafts and we will put them aside to dry.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah12.JPG)
-
after they have dried I go over them with steel wool to remove the grain that was raised by the stain seeing it contains a small percentage of water in the alcohol. It also tones down the boldness of the stain.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah13.JPG)
-
next I seal the stain and the shafting with a spray acrylic sealer..Krylon satin. I normally like to use the water poly but as I told you I was afraid to loosen glue joints. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah14.JPG)
-
Mac, You may have been planing on it but can you put your sharpening technique for the grizzlies in the pictoral too. :saywhat:
-
The krylon dries rather quickly. I would dip with gasket laquer right now but as someone has shown this method already I will do them another way. I will spray on a coat of Krylon Crystal Glaze which is a compound much like they cover decopuges with to make them look glassy smooth.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah15.JPG)
Only trouble is the drying time of overnight and my wife is already noticing I failed to turn on the exhaust fans in the shop. Heck it's winter and cold and I don't want to waste any heat. We will continue this tomorrow guys....Nite all.
-
Meat I never liked the look of grizzlys or the fact that you only sharpen one side of the blade, but George Nagel used them on our piggy hunt and I've never seen a more penetrating head in my life. His arrows just zipped clean thru whatever he shot at. He shot the length of a big boar hog LENGTHWISE! I was totally impressed.
-
Meat, I will sharpen the grizzly heads on here and shave my arm for you but promise me you won't cut yourself. I will try to find those wensels I have becuase I am afraid you won't have that faith thing going for you shooting a strange head. I suggest you shoot a couple of the grizzlies for practice and when you see how they fly you might be impressed enough. I think because they sharpen on one side they spin inside an animal. I know they spin in foam and are hard to remove unlike a zwickey that will go into the foam straight. It does mean stuff inside a deer I know and Mickey is telling you about George.
Meat I never liked the look of grizzlys or the fact that you only sharpen one side of the blade, but George Nagel used them on our piggy hunt and I've never seen a more penetrating head in my life.
Mickey doesn't like them because he uses rusty ole saw blades and stone points the tightwad. I'll have to see if I got any old ones laying around for him.
-
Terry, you most certainly can use this any way you want. If I can help some newbie learn something I feel I am giving back because this is how I learned a ton of stuff I never did know and could never figure out because I wasn't smart enough.I will work out the pics with Hook afterwards too.....Mac~
-
Mac~
I was chatting with the "meat" this evening, and he was telling me about these "killing" arrows you were doing up for him. I mentioned that it may be unfair for him to use "killing" arrows, when I only get to use regular ones
He is lucky to have you doing them for him, I can say for sure I know how much time and attention it takes to make a dozen. (or 11 as it were!) mind ya, I dont have them fancy arra makin tools either. (but they are on the list!)
A matched set of arras is a purty thing!
and I personally prefer grizzlies...no problem sharpening them either...and they fly like, well...arrows! I will have some 70-75# lam birch shafts on the hunt with us, pushing some 190gr. Grizz heads, hopefully we will get the opportunity to find out some penetration results eh Meat?!!!!
Looking good Mac!
-
This has got to be as good as it gets!!!
-
Mac this is great! I cant wait to see how they turn out!!!....another example of the generosity of people on this site!
-
great thread .looks like i got to come up with some more funds before i go piggying . also that a woodchuck must go on the list .have a set of shafts sitting here for 2 months point won't fit in the taper tool have so will have to make a jig that works .--- herb
-
Nice arrows :thumbsup: Mac you have a PM
-
Meat,
I'm sharpening challenged beyond comprehension... I own every danged contraption they made to sharpen stuff...
I finally got a Redi Edge from Ed Schlief on a bet..he bet I could make it sharpen anything & I bet I couldn't. If I could make it work, Ed said I had to buy it.
Long story short, I bought 2!!! It worked. I sharpened everything I could find and all my friends stuff when I visited.... :D
Ed had all sorts of bh's up there at Denton one year he'd sharped with that gizmo, the Redi-Edge, and he did the Griz...but it of course, ended up with 2 sides sharp!
I've done griz like that ever since! And I ask, if it works, so what? Designed for a chisel 1- side sharp and I made it a 2-sided sharp, and like the nice 3:1 profile. Might work for you too!
-
Feel like a vampire cuz I only work nights on this stuff but here we go again. Now we put on the nocks. They are placed at 90 degrees to the laminations or the parallel grains in a non laminated shaft. Look at the pointer and you will see the laminations. The black mark is parallel to the laminations or layers. Where this mark is made is the strongest portion of the shaft therefore the string groove on the nock must be perpendicular or 90 degrees to the grain or laminations in this case.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah16.JPG) (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah17.JPG)
-
I put the nocks on with Duco Cement. I never liked squeezing from the tube so i just put some on a pad or a board.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah18.JPG) (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah19.JPG)
-
I touch the glue and put the nock on with a spinning motion aligning the string groove 90 degrees to the laminations or the grain.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah20.JPG)
-
Had I wanted a fancy crown dip I would have applied it before putting on the nocks but I am only going to crest these arrows. I will use my home made crester. I used an old aquarium pump motor and a dimmer switch. The arrow shaft collet I purchased from an archery suplier. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah21.JPG)
-
I use an assortment of brushes and either apple barrel paints or Odds and Ends Fast Drying Enamel from Walmart. They thin easily and dry rapidly. Today we will use yellow, red and gold. Keep plenty of paint thinner or brush cleaner handy for clean up. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah22.JPG) (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah23.JPG)
-
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah24.JPG) I put the shaft into the collet on the end of the motor and turn up the dimmer switch until the arrow spins about 300 rpm. I then place the paint brush with the appropriate color against the shaft and spin on the paint as the yellow here. An index card with (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah25.JPG) marks on it guides where I put the paint. It sets tight against the shaft guide and then all the bands are approximately the same size and in the same location. The red bands are next followed by small bands of gold. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah26.JPG)
-
This is too cool :bigsmyl:
Chris
-
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah27.JPG)
Here are two shafts with the finished cresting pattern. Their are cresting tools that can be purchased for about 150 dollars that will do a better job than mine but really unneccessary. Now each shaft is imprinted with a permanent marker
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah28.JPG)
Dake rih' hon tye...Iriquios meaning Silent Messenger, Tomorrow we will add another top coat of glaze to cover the cresting and the imprinting and then on to the fletching.
-
Cool thread Mac,those oinkers don't stand a chance.Killin' arras for sure :thumbsup: .I'm sure Hook will be proud to use them.
Curt }------------------->
-
It really is almost unfair to the pigs. :D
Looking good Mac :thumbsup:
I am looking forward to putting those to flight. I just wish the snow here would stop and melt some I would like to get outside to shoot. I can shoot inside but the most I can get is 13 paces. I need a bigger basement.
-
Great thread Mac. Fantastic looking shafts. Looks like I gotta build me a cresting machine.
-
Full moon out early tonight :scared: so back to work for me. We had finished the cresting and I had put another coat of glaze on the shaft to cover the writing and the cresting and further seal the shaft. Before doing this I very lightly rubbed it with 000 steel wool for adhesion purposes. Now on with the lesson. I spent considerable time trying to arrive a good combination of fletching. I plan to use Pope and Young style with some combination of yellow and orange. I tried two orange and yellow cock, two yellow and orange cock, two yellow barred and orange cock, and two yellow barred and orange barred cock. Finally I arived at something I was happy with. I actually constructed each with little short pieces of fletching tape. My grandad taught me the 6 P's years ago and I believe strongly in it. Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.. I apologize for the one term but it is the way my grandaddy taught it to me. Be happy to just call it P___ if the administration so desires. He we go............
-
I have decided to go with a Pope and Young style of fletching. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah29.JPG)
I will use full length feathers that will be shaped by using a chopper. A chopper consists of and anvil bottom or flat steel surface and a cutting top portion.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah30.JPG)
You insert the feather and strike the top cutting bar with a rubber mallet cutting out the feather.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah31.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah32.JPG)
I use left wing feathers so I needed a left wing chopper. The only style of chopper that doesn't have a wing configuration is the banana because it is shaped the same way in either direction. If you look at the two turkey feathers shown the one on the left is a left wing feather and the one on the right is a right wing feather.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah34.JPG)
Notice the shapes are different. Either could be mounted straight but helical configuration is by which wing it comes from. I am using feathers from a left wing of a bird. I never try to get two fletchings from one feather and I cut it a few inches in from the heaviest portion of the quill.
-
I am now going to put the feathers on the arrow shaft using a Blitzenburger fletching jig. There are many different types but I use either a Blitzenberger or a Jo Jan Jig especially if I am doing 6 at one time with glue. The Jig I am using will be for left helical feathers and using left wing quills.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah35.JPG)
You see the nock indexer has a letter L on it telling me it is for left wing. Also the allen screw you cannot see is turned in making this a 120 degree set up for three feathers at equal distances around the shaft.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah36.JPG)
The clamp has Left imprinted on it too for the same reason.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah37.JPG)
The jig has been set for left helical by twisting the chrome knobs after loosening the allen screw and the retightening. It may look in the photo that it is on R but there is a small arrow under the R indicating to move it in that direction.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah38.JPG)
This puts a twist in the arrows flight from the bow much like rifling in a gun barrel.
-
To attatch the feathers one can use glue or tape. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah39.JPG)
I like tape and will be using it here. It has no odor and I can do it with one jig, no drying time while watching TV. If using glue I suggest a glue bottle as you can control the amount of glue coming out better. The glues in the photo are Arrow Mate at 9 o'clock for carbons, aluminum or wood and works on gasket laquer too. Duco is very good for gasket laquer and putting on nocks, Fletchtite for laquer dipped finishes but not gasket laquer and tape. The tape is two sided and once set will destroy a feather removing it and I have hunted for weeks in rain and never had one fail because of water.
-
I will place the arrow shaft into the indexer and slide it upon the metal tab that acts like the string on a bow. I then make the flat portion with the letter L face me. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah40.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah41.JPG)
This puts the cock feather in the proper position to be 90 degrees from the side plate on the arrow shelf. This feather will be an Orange barred in this project. On the clamp are small indicater lines in inches.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah42.JPG)
I will be using the half inch line as the type of feather I am using has much overhang whereby if I were using a parabolic shape I might just butt it to the flat notch.
Working with the feather in the clamp
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah43.JPG)
I apply the tape and then cut off the excess with scissors. Then press it tightly to the feather shaft by running your finger over the tape. Peel the covering and apply to shaft.
-
put the heel of the clamp against the jig frame as shown
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah44.JPG)
and allow the clamp to stick to the magnets in the backside. Then slide it down and press the feather vane to the shaft
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah45.JPG)
and the tape will stick. Simply remove the clamp as shown. I run my fingernail down the side of the feather having the most shaft to press the tape tight to the shaft.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah46.JPG)
-
You will turn the indexer to the next click and apply a hen feather the same way. Now you can see the twist the helical pattern applies. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah47.JPG)
-
Once all feathers are applied I add a drop of glue to front and back of feather. This anchors the feather and somewhat assure you will not drive a quill into your hand while shooting because it protrudes some. (http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah48.JPG)
-
Most excellent presentation Mr Mac.
When using fletch tape, to seat it I just put my thumb at the front of the feather and run it on top of the feather the full length. The feather will flatten out under your thumb but pop right up again (same as pulling it thru a target when it burys too deep).
That tape is some amazing stuff!
Usually one edge of the stiff quill will be sticking up (because the quill base is twisted fletched helical) and I'll take a razor blade and trim it off so as not to catch a quill in my hand before putting on a drop of glue or wrapping with thread.
-
Fletch tape rocks. It is the best thing since sliced bread. I can't think of a single reason not to use it. :thumbsup:
-
by the way Mac your camera does a real nice job with the macro shots. Looking good. :thumbsup:
-
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah49.JPG)
And here is what they will look like Meathook. :D Only there will be one dozen. Tomorrow points and broadheads with a sharpening lesson and maybe, :rolleyes: just maybe by Monday they will be packed and on their way. Plan to go out to Shawn's place for the next hunt. Fitting I take him something. He's probably drooling.
Well, let's see, I can make him a horse chestnut necklace, or a dried coon pecker zipper puller, I'll come up with something. Until tomorrow...Mac~
-
Meat, it is a sony. has focus settings for macro, 1/2 meter, 1 meter, seven meters, and infinity. Does sound movies clips too. Neat but when I was at your place battery went dead. Found out it wouldn't recharge much..got a new battery now.
-
Mickey, I apply it the same way. I only use my nail to squeeze the shaft of feather to the arrow shaft for a good glue joint.I strung it out in photo bacause I am taking all these shots and working too...Mac~
-
looks good Mac~ an animal would be proud to be run through with one of those bad boys.
:)
-
Mac this thread makes me want to do a set of wood arrows now! but i think ill pass on the "coon pecker zipper puller" Dried or not!!! :eek:
-
Very well done! :thumbsup:
-
Nice job Mac,very nice :thumbsup: .I am heading up to Shawns place later this morning.He invited my dad and I up to hunt bunnies with him and his dad.Dads will hunt with shotguns,Shawn and I will take our bows.Looking forward to getting my old man out in the woods,its been a while since we were out together.It'll be cold,but we should have a blast!Hope to have some pics. to post later.
Curt }------------------->
-
I was just about to note that you're up early this mornin Curt...but after reading the last post I understand why. Good Luck and Good Hunting!
TomL :wavey:
-
Mac those are suhweet. I will be proud to fling them all over North Florida. :thumbsup:
-
Fine job there Mac!! Those hogs ain't got a chance. :thumbsup:
-
Meat,
Fling them all over Florida if ya like but these are "Silent Messangers of Death" so try to make one of the spots you fling them at a big piggy....Mac~
-
"Silent Messangers of Death"
holy crap that is strong. good mojo. "we will be stacking them up like cordwood my friend"
Pretty arrows, cant wait to see them fly. Meathook, those arras are the "berries"
and Mac~, where does the line up start for coon peckers, I want one. :D
-
Walkingstick, Wow!!! Thanks for the build-along, must have taken a lot of time to compose, very nice! I am a newbie at most of this stuff and your effort to "give something back" is much appreciated. Thanks. Randy.
-
That's the purpose Randy, to hedge-a-cate a newbie so you don't have to be wondering what something is or how it is done. Wil try to finish it this weekend.
Calvin, Hard to come by but the males wil be movin for breeding about now so if I see one along the road dead of course I get it for you if you really must have one. Great conversation piece on a jacket zipper. Folks will grab it and then ask ya what it is..Then you tell them.
Mac~
-
Nice pictorial,nice arrows made by an even nicer guy! I just don't know if meathook deserves such royal treatment ;) Don't worry meat there's no pressure really,just because Mac went to all this trouble to make these arrows up special.It'd be a shame to see em fly over the back of a pig or something :knothead: Better get to practicing....
Again nice job Mac.
-
Like I have said before my friend, "once a teacher, always a teacher". Wish I could figure out how to put dang pictures in like that so I can do this with one of these sticks I am working on but as of yet...I have been unable to do it. I have followed every one of these "here's how ya do it posts that I have found. Guess you can explain it to me over the phone.
"EXCELLENT JOB BUDDY! I also will be interested in how these shafts perform.
B
-
Brian, I just started doing it and it went all wrong, no pictures showed but our nosey administrators could not live without knowing what was under that little red X so they walked me right through it. Thank you guys for teaching me, now teach Brian...Mac~
-
It would be kinda nice if this popped up in a search of "how to" so when it gets burried and a newbie looks to learn it,ll be right there.Again nice job and thanks for getting that package to me it arrived today.
-
Now we have a dozen fletched arrows awaiting their points. One half will be field points and one half will be grizzly broadheads. Meat requested a 125 point so the small sized grizzlies but these shafts are coming in pretty heavy and will bust right through a pig if hit in the right area. We will use the following items:
Denatured alcohol, a brass rifle cleaning brush, hot glue sticks or ferrel tite, a dish or container, our points, an alcohol lamp, rag and a broadhead alighning tool. I will use a file and a butchers steel later to sharpen broadheads.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah50.JPG)
-
I then take the wire brush and scrub or rough up the points on the inside for adhesion.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah51.JPG)
They are then dipped into a dish of denatured alcohol to remove any greases or oils that might remain from the manufacturing process.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah52.JPG)
They are removed from alcohol, blotted and allowed to evaporate or air dry.
-
With the points cleaned I then lightly sand the arrow points. I then light my alcohol lamp and melt some ferrel tite and dab it onto the point or the arrow shaft.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah53.JPG)
I heat the point itself spinning it to heat evenly and as the glue starts to melt, I apply pressure and twist allowing a small amount of sprue to leak out between the arrow shaft and the point.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah54.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah55.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah56.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah57.JPG)
I use a cloth to twist and press on and the sprue will cool and harden. After it cools it can be easily popped off.
-
The broadheads are no different when it comes to mounting them as far as the gluing process but they must be aligned as how one prefers the point to sit (horizontally or vertically..these are vertical) and a spinner is used to check that they are on the arrow straight.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah58.JPG)
-
A close observation of the grizzly head shows striations on the bevel where the grinding wheel did its job.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah59.JPG)
Our job in sharpening them is to keep the angle of the bevel the same. I will apply file pressure agressively at first until the scratches are gone from the bevel. Look carefully and you can see some of the roll or the bevel but most of it is on the other side.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah60.JPG)
I sometimes blacken this out with a magic marker to see where the file is doing its work. I will file the beveled side from front to back and the file will move out over the bevel away from the furrel until I can feel a burr starting to form on the back side.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah61.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah62.JPG)
Once the roll or burred edge is felt the agressive sharpening ceases and the weight of the file is virtually all you use to roll the edge back and forth until you have a razor sharp edge.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah63.JPG)
keep the file flat to the back. I believe the one sided bevel of the grizzly is what makes this broadhead so awesome. Look over the inside of an animal you shoot. I have seen damage like I never have seen with any other broadhead.
-
For further affect I hone them with a butchers steel
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah64.JPG)
and
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah65.JPG)
you can shave yourself
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah66.JPG)
BARE!!!!!! :D
-
And now the Silent Messengers are ready to do their work and yes Calvin, a lot of Good Karma or Mojo goes with them. If Meathook misses a pig with everyone of them and has a wonderful experience the fun for me :confused: has been worth it. The circle continues
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah67.JPG)
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah68.JPG)
They even look good in my Badger Skin Quiver with my Handle and my Driver on the strap. Can't have that though. That was made special for me by Mt. Mike's wife Marty.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah69.JPG)
.... Don here are your goodies . Will get them in the mail with a few more surprises by Tuesday the latest. Will emial you they are on the way..Priority Mail.Have a wonderful time and I am sure we will have to hear about it too...Your friend.....Mac~
-
Walkingstick.......Great thread and beautiful arras. :help:
-
Very cool Mac. They look awesome. Can't wait to shoot them. Those grizzlies look ready to to go and the best part is I don't need to bring a razor on the trip. :thumbsup:
Thanks again I will do my best to send a message to some pigs while I am down there.
-
WOW SWEEEEEET!!!!! :thumbsup:
-
TTT for clay.Enjoy it,s well done for novice to vetern
-
Excellent thread.
-
That was a most excellent thread, for a fairly new beginner at making my own arrows it has helped me see where I was going wrong.
Admin, I want to thank you for putting that in how to for us beginners.
bjohn
-
Well I didn't have an arrow box I thought I had and going 35 miles to Coudersport to get one from Bill Boncarz was nuts in this weather so I went to the PO and got two of those triangular mailers. Put foam in bottom (high density) and foam (low density) over nocks and filled the void and taped it shut. Before I did I put some special surprises inside for Meathook with a letter. The hold up was good because I wanted to make one arrow extra special by signing it and putting a gold point on it. I looked for the points I had given to me years ago by Ferret. I put them in a place where I would never forget. Well after looking for them for an eternity a quick phone call to my "little buddy" from southern Ohio and they were in the mail so I guess Mickey has a little in this too.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah70.JPG)
Thanks Mickey for coming through like you always do and Don, enjoy the arrows and the hunt. They will leave here tomorrow.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/dah/dah71.JPG)
.....Mac~
-
Mac,
Man this is a cool thread..... Nice looking
arrows and perfectly illustrated...
keep em' sharp,
4fletch :thumbsup:
-
That was excellent! :D
-
And the best part of the story is those very arrows killed both these piggies. I love it when a plan comes together.
(http://tradgang.com/dh/flojam04/meatsmallhogs.jpg)