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Topic Archives => How To - Resources => Topic started by: Guru on February 25, 2006, 09:59:00 PM
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I see there are a lot of guys that struggle with this here.This is how I do it,simple, cheap.I think everyone has this "special tool".
all ya need is your shafts...and a screw driver with a round "shaft"...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Guru39/arastr.jpg)
sight down your shaft to see where it needs to be worked on.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Guru39/arastr1.jpg)
as you can see this one has a good curve to the left.Now all ya have to do is hold it so the curve is up,like a hump.... take your screw driver and with down pressure against the hump,run it back and forth on top of the shaft...working against the crook.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Guru39/arastr2.jpg)
This is a ramin dowel,so it takes a little more pressure and time to get them worked out....the softer the shaft,the less pressure and swipes back and forth it takes.Too much and you can actually make it go the other way.Go a little at a time... Do it and check,do some more and check......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Guru39/arastr4.jpg)
work it some more....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Guru39/arastr5.jpg)
Same shaft...about a minute later...super straight ready for a broadhead.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/Guru39/arastr3.jpg)
Easy,cheap....give it a shot....with practice anybody can do this
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Curt,
great post :thumbsup:
Cody
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.........Nice pictorial Curt :thumbsup:
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Good idea
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Great "How to" Curt. If I can't get them straightened by hand, I get the screw driver out. Your pics should help all the new arrowmakers. :thumbsup:
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thanks curt, this helped....alot
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Same concept but with the hook method. I had an older gentleman show me the same style only with a brass hook . The kind you have to hold your coffee cup under your cupboard. He screwed it into the end of an arrow shaft about 6" long . Worked great. Great picture , that will help many on something that is hard to grasp by telling.
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Ted,That's the way I used to do it too,with a hook...
My hope is that the pix help a little,if anyone has some questions or need another pic to explain something...don't hesitate to ask....
Now I just use a screwdriver...to me it's the easiest,simplest,and most effective way to do it.
Guys,If you can't get it straight this way with a little work.....then use it as a tomatoe stake,it isn't good enough to be used as an arrow :banghead:
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What about the pulley method. I thought ya had pics. of that too. Shawn
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Curt,
How do the ramin dowells work for staying straight after finishing?
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Guru, I have absolutely no experience with wood arrows so here comes maybe a stupid question. It seems to me that that arrow shaft wasn't forced to have that bend in it. That means that for whatever reason, that shaft wanted to bend in that direction. Your method obviously produced excellent results but will the shaft remain straight or will it want to return to its bent state over time?
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Thanks Guru, I will be trying that soon when I get some shafts... Again Thanks
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You can also use the underside of your palm, beneath your thumb to do the same thing.
Different woods react differently, dj, in my experience it depends on a lot of factors but hardwoods will try to revert to the bend more than softwoods- the trick is to get your shafts in ahead of needing them, sort by dozens, straighten them, rubber band them together in several places, then store them in a relatively cool, dry, place to season and every few months pull them down, open the bundle, restraighten, and put back. In a year or two you will have some permanently straight shafts.
At least thats how I did it when I had an arrow business and it worked great.
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I've only used the palm of my hand to straighten shafts, but will give this a shot too. Thanks for the tutorial Curt.
David
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Curt, good tutorial. A picture is worth a thousand words...maybe more. Cedar is one of the easiest arrow shafts to straighten, and they do stay straight better than any others I've encountered. Have not had much experience with hardwoods though...maybe in the next life 8^).
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Palming a shaft works well but harder for the beginer to regulate the pressure needed. Or in some cases they put to much and boom!
This method will work well with Ramin , birch and ash as well Heydeerman , as it heats up the direct bend area from friction . Heat is the best way to keep the hardwood from returning to its original state as Raymond touched on. I have even seen a similar tecnique done on a wood work bench with a slot cut into the edge to do the same by running the shaft up and down on the wood , thus creating friction and pressure to the bent area.
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Man, Thanks Guru........I've been trying not to ask about that for a while now.
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Thanks guys...thought some pix might help
Sly, don't ever be afraid to ask a question here,someone will have an answer for ya....
Ted and some others answered about "staying straight".....Cedars and softwoods are not to bad to straighten by "palming".Did it that way for years,but this way is faster and more permanant.
I find that palming just doesn't work well for hardwoods.This method with the combination of heat from friction and the slight "crushing" of the cells on the opposite side of the bend works real well.
As mentioned earlier,it might take a couple sessions per shaft throughout the stages of making your arrows.But they will stay straight...as long as the shaft wasn't real bad to start with....that's why I said they would make better tomatoe stakes....or you'll end up doing a lot of this :banghead:
practice with some old crooked shafts...I think you'll like what you can do with them....
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The trick with friction methods like this vs palming, is that you're actually compressing (slightly) the woodfibers on the long 'side' of the bent arrow. That means it's much more likely to stay straight (since there was a physical change) than merely 'bending them' into shape.
It's easier on softwoods because, being soft, it's easier to get the needful compression.
The other way to do this is with something like the Ace roller straightener where you put the arrow on a flat surface and roll it down. That minimizes the chance of overbending or breaking shafts (I had a batch of douglas fir that would snap if you tried to pressure bend them- luck of the draw no slight to the wood or the vendor)
Good post Curt
Jake
(who had to learn this one the hard way)
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I've used screwdrivers, nut drivers, steel rod, brass rod, or whatever similar thing I happened to grab from the tool drawer. Simple is usually better. Usually two sessions over about a week's time are enough to get a shaft to stay straight.
Good post Guru!
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Excellent Guru just what I needed. I got some ash shafts and they need a little taming. I've done two so far,straight arrows, who would of thought? I hope this doesn't effect my shooting.
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I use a heavy old machine shop tap. Its pretty chunky and has a perfect finish. After the first go round (fix) I get the majority of my finish on and then lightly burnish the entire arrow. Then final finish and they seem to stay straight.
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Glad to help...
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This will also work on your finished arrows if they bend again later on.
I use a hardwood block on my bench like Ted mentioned above.
Let me know how you make out with your bow Curt.
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I welded half a chain link to a 3/8 rod to make a hook. It sort of looks like a question mark (?).
It works really well on the hardwoods I get from Twig Archery. I have made up several dozen so far this winter. They stay just as straight as the best cedar I have.
I agree that the combination of heat and compression is the key. Rub fast and evenly, with long strokes. You are trying to make the "long" side of the shaft equal the "short" side. You don't want to make a sharp dent in the shaft.
If I over hook and warp it toward the compressed side I usually just bump it a few times with hand straightening to get it back to straight. I wait to cut to length until after all straightening is finished. Full length shafts are easier to work with.
Soft woods like cedar can be flattened pretty quickly with hooking. I usually just hand straighten them.
One other thing: make the nock end of the shaft the end that was straight naturally, prior to straighting. If it wants to bend again it will be easier to see and correct if not covered with fletching.
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Thanks Curt.
I'd been favoring carbon since I'm "straightening impaired" - But recently been messing with a pile of ramin shafts trying to get them straight enough to invest the time into making them up into arrows... I just spent about an hour in the garage with a screwdriver, and I've got a dozen close enough that my shooting won't show the difference (and only broke 1)
Do you just hand-straighten if needed once they're finished? (I'm sure the screwdriver will screw up the finish...)
Thanks again - the pictures really helped...
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Jason,
If you can still find one, a frontier arrow straightener works wonders on finished or unfinished ramin. I bought mine years ago when I shot a compound. They were origninally made for aluminum shafts, but they work just as well on wood. Especially ramin. Haven't seen one around in a long time though. I can even straighten a shaft with multiple bends.
the screwdriver trick does work well though. Much better than trying to straighten ramin with nothing but your hands.
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Your welcome Jason...pretty easy wasn't it???
I find that I can touch them up(if need be) after they are finished as long as it's a tough finish( I use poly).But if you go over them a couple times during the steps of the making process,they should stay straight.But some will fight ya....Just be careful with the softer woods,go easy...
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Worked like a charm last night.......thanks.
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Another way to deal with this is buy Rouge River Archery Shafts. I have some that are 8 years old and are as straight as the day they arrived. never seen anything like it.
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Wow...sometimes we have answers right in front of our nose...takes a GURU to see it. Way to go Curt. I will use this one...........Mac~
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mac, I started out "hooking" them with a homemade version made out of a eye screw.......But found that there is nothing simpler and easily accessible as a screw driver....
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I'm gonna have to try the screw driver method sometime Curt. Thanks. I like trying new techniques. :bigsmyl:
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Curt, I tried the screwdriver method last night and had 2 shafts with a big curve in them straight in a few minutes. Got another that bends 2 ways and I got it better. With a little work it'll be right tonight. Thanks for the idea. I haave tried to use a hook before and pretty much lost interest because I only made them worse.
Charlie
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Hawg,try it,you'll like it!!
Charlie, after you get the feel for it,it's almost too simple....
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You bet. Gonna give it a shot next batch. Since I had a blond moment with this batch. :knothead: :knothead: :knothead:
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Wow!!! Curt, thank you! I've been using an empty beer bottle. :thumbsup: