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Topic Archives => How To - Resources => Topic started by: Mike Mecredy on November 05, 2010, 11:45:00 AM
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I wanted to share a few things on how I make arrows at a very low price (by todays standards). These work well, but you won't win any 300 rounds with them or see a hard core competitor use them but they work well for all other shooting / hunting applications.
For starters you'll need a fletcher, a feather chopper, and a taper tool. I don't include those in the $.92 claim since they'll be used over and over.
Now for the materials I used a 5/16" birch dowel from woodcrafter.com they cost $16.00 / 100, making them $.16 each. Check for knots and runouts and other weak spots, (like Scattershot mentions later on) Also use heat or friction on the kinks and straighten them first. I used full length feathers from Sagittarius Archery for $25.00 / 100, enough to make one arrow costs. $.38. I used nocks from 3 rivers, $.11 each and points from 3 rivers as well, at $.27 each. There is an initial investment but it pay off big in the long run.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow001.jpg)
Fist I like to "bar" my feathers, the ones already barred cost more. I use a fat sharpie,You can also use leather dye, the sort with the round foam applicator and make dots or half moons,
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow003.jpg)
I make a pattern, in this case I did 'h" shape on the white ones and lighting bolts on the orange ones,with random dots. Mark from the top down and perpendicular to hairs (I dond't know what they're called) or at a 45 degree angle to the quill.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow004.jpg)
Then I use a 4" parabolic little copper and make the chops
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow002.jpg)
Here's how they turn out (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow005.jpg)
Then taper the shafts with a taper tool of your choosing in stall the point and nock. For all the gluing, nocks points and fletvching, I use cheap dollar store super glue gel. 3 tubes for a buck
Then fletch it, I have a love/hate relationship with the Jo Jan.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow010.jpg)
Here's the $.92 arrow, It's cut 29" BOP and wieghs 510 grains, and spines around 38#, which makes it work well for recurves and longbows with shelves in the 40# range and makes them perfect for 50# english style longbows that require a weaker spine. (Remember they are 510 grains.) I like to use an acrylic base spray to seal them once they are fletched, and it seals everything and won't hurt the feathers.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow014.jpg)
I used my 53#, bamboo backed hickory longbow, no rest no shelf, no side plate, just off my hand, and it goes right where it should go. Notice I added a section of an arrow wrap to crest it. I just use peice of wraps so they'll go furthur.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow015.jpg)
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Well done Mike
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great post, Mike. I have used those dowels myself, and second your opinion on their usability. One caveat, though, be sure to flex them before you go to the trouble of making an arrow. They are dowels, after all, and may have some weak spots or knots.
Good job!
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Oh, and I actually shot that arrow too, from about 18 yrds, I didn't just stick it in the hay bail.
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Yes, check for knots amd run outs. Glad you mentioned it Eugene
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:thumbsup:
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I like the use of the sharpy for the barbs. :thumbsup:
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Thanks Mike, that looks like the kind of arrow I can afford to shoot often.
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If you have rubber stamps you can get a little creative with the sharpie as well (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow012.jpg)
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/Archery%20Stuff/arrow013.jpg)
I used tracks on those ones, but for kids, (you know,) happy faces, butterflies, kitties, stars, whoop-ti-doos etc.
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Thanks for the tutorial. You may have even converted me to try making my own.
captainkirk
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The intial investment is a little much,
Chopper $21.50
Fletcher $102.50
(if you want a single) $40.00
100 dowels $16.00
100 feathers 25.00
100 points 26.50
100 nocks 11.00
total $202.50 (and shipping)
(Or $139.50 and shipping if you get a single fletcher) But with arrows costing as much as they do per dozen it's worth it.
(Or you can do what I did and find stuff used but that took me nearly 8 months)
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I use Ramin Wood for Shafts, and am Proud to be a "Penny Pincher"!! "WANTS AND NEEDS" My Friends!!
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Very cool! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Great idea for the feathers. I'm going to do that on my daughters arrows. Thanks for the info.
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I just have to try that, thanks a lot
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Thanks for the tutorial Mike! I can't wait to see the kids bows for Christmas! I took your advice when I placed the order for the dowel rods you suggested. After arriving, they became awesome arrows overnight! As per our discussion (same as the tutorial) all 3 kids will be shooting your bows on Christmas morning! I just need to finish their quivers (coon, bobcat, and sheep) before Christmas gets here! God bless you Mike! You've provided awesome service to me over the years!
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COOL, GREAT POST!
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Thanks for sharing Mike. Great idea for affordable kids arrows.
Butch L
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Mike, Now that's just Kool!
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Thanks for the great ideas Mike!
My son whacked another 'city grouse' today with his mid-size Maddog longbow. They LOVE to shoot their bows.
-Ryan
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good pictorial, mike - thanx! :thumbsup:
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This looks like it is up to speed with something that I personally would be able to accomplish. I do have one question though...What if I wanted to make them the same length but for a 50# recurve? Thanks
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I've gotten the birch dowels to spine at 50#. First get the ones that seem stiffer than other ones, then "bone" or burnish the dowel once it's cut to length until it's shiny. You have to do it alot to heat them, temper via the friction, and then you can get them to spine at 50#. I use them on my hunting arrows (when I do manage to get the time to hunt)with some 5/16" tusker 2 blade broadheads and with 50# bows. Plus cut them as short as you can get by with and they spine good. I've never gotten them over 50# though.
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premise - adding tail weight to any arrow will increase the arrow's spine.
using the 'internal point weight nail footing jig', adding some weight to the nock of the shaft before tapering for a plastic glue-on nock will increase the spine of the finished arrow. the nail jig's smallest size is for 11/32" shafts, but adding a few wraps of masking tape to the nock area of the shaft, or perhaps making a collet outta aluminum can, will allow the jig to center itself on the shaft end so that the 9/64" hole can be drilled down a goodly 2" (or more).
i like the idea of 'frugal woodies', just ordered out a hundred of those woodcrafter birch dowels. using canada goose feathers and self nocks will further cut the cost down by a huge margin, and .32 caliber brass shell points plus a nail footing will make for some neato roving arras. post and pics to follow. ah, the fun never stops - eh, mike? :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/DSC03746.jpg)
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That's a good idea. I nerver though of it. I've used .357 mag and .38 spl. cases for small game apprications before.
They don't have 11/32" dowel, and there's really no practacle use for them on wood working, but they sell 3/8" and I made a jig to use with my drill press/drum sander set-up that I can take them down to 11/32" or 23/64". I'll ppst pics or it next time, it take sthem down pretty quick. But 11/32 birch spines pretty stiff, and they wieght about 600 gr alone when cut to 29". So they would work well with 60# plus bows.
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Excellent, Thanks Mike
You and I think alike in many ways!
Travis
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i briefly thought about getting the woodcrafter 3/8" dowels, and then bopping 'em through an 11/32" stepper jig ... but nah, the 5/16" will do just fine for 50# bows, maybe even upwards of 60#. using the nail in the tail will stiffen up the dynamic spine pretty well. lots will also depend on yer shooting style, in terms of form and release. some of us can easily get away with shooting lots less arra spine.
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Some good ides here
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This is great mike thanks for sharing ,
Moderators
pelase put this post in the how to for future references its great