Trad Gang
Topic Archives => How To - Resources => Topic started by: Wannabe1 on January 21, 2011, 03:30:00 PM
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For those wanting to try their hand at building some not so fancy but, functional wood arrows, I thought I'd share how I do it. I start by using 1 doz. Surewood shafts spined 60-65#, 32" to start and 410-420gr. These will be for my Howard Hill Tembo this year.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0294.jpg)
I then, using a white cotton t-shirt, so no inks bleed through, stain with a Colonial Maple Minwax stain. This gives them a very traditional look in my opinion and really brings out the wood grain. Let them dry for 24hrs.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0295.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0296.jpg)
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Keep going TW. A lot of folks can use this.
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Didn't You say "Not fancy" Keep it coming..
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where do you get the surewoods?
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Hold on guys, gotta let 'em dry. :D I'm doing this post as I go so, it will be drawn out over the next week. Believe me, they won't be fancy but, they'll shoot straight! :thumbsup:
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Pon, I live right down the road from where they build them. All I have to do is call in what I want, and when they're ready, go pick them up.
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I like the Calabash pipe in the left corner. ;-) (And the burl ones, too).
Now see what you've done. I'm gonna have to drag my pipe out and get stern looks from THE ADMIRAL.
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Stumpkiller, it really helps me relax sometimes to just sit at my work bench and enjoy one of my pipes. The Alpha wood pipe, I got from Dick in Seattle and it is my favorite.
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Sherlock Holmes the arrow maker,You will finish up with a flight test after your all done won't ya :goldtooth:
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Absolutely! I will bareshaft one to get it to the right length before finishing up arrows.
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Pon you can order direct or you can get them from Tim @ Braveheart archery.
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Thanks for doing this arrow build along wannabe
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Understood. I got started to keep the blackflies and mosquitoes off while fishing and now it's just an occasional treat. I have an old briar bent-stem bulldog that is small but my favorite. I used to go through a "Missouri Meerchaum" every couple years - corncob pipe to the uninformed. Sweet smoking and light enough to keep in your teeth without hands or geting a stiff jaw.
A pipe gives a wise man time to think and a fool something to stick in his mouth. (C.S. Lewis)
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The high grade Missouri Meerchaum, never thought I would say that, with Balkan Sobranie, very expensive English blend, is the best string making, arrow fletching, canoe paddling, flyfishing combo I have found. Don't shoot your bow with your pipe in your mouth. That is not being a wise man. I know of two people that did, talk about your teeth rattling bow shock.
While i puff I wonder, what is the spread of grain weights on say a hundred surewood shafts versus the bulk order of 100 cedar shafts.
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These smoke signals are killing me -- like a foreign language to a licorice eater like me!
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Actually, I get a HUGE kick out of many of these threads that start out on a topic and then take a couple forks here and there ...very entertaining. Like that commercial on TV where the search engine BING helps focus a search better than Google!
Course like the great Yogi said (Bera not Boo-boo's mentor), "When you come to a fork in the road...take it!
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Originally posted by magnus:
Keep going TW. A lot of folks can use this.
Agreed. And I'm definately one of them. :D
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Getting some minor things together. Tomorrow I will seal the shafts with Varathane, Spar Urethane. It is an outdoor urethane and is water clean up for easy use. I will do one coat, dry 15 minutes, rub with a very fine steel wool; coat and dry 15 more minutes; steel wool and coat one final time. This actually seals the shaft very well!
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0298.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0297.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0300.jpg)
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Note my J-8 fletching jig. I made it so's it's portable and I can fletch anywhere I feel like resting my south end.
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hey Buddy they is looking good so far!! :clapper:
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Excellent so far. :thumbsup:
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Like what I see so far, MAY I HAVE MORE PLEASE? Oh yes, thank you.
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Looking good so far, TW.
Pavan, POC will vary about 100 gr, Doug Fir about 150. Sitka Spruce has the most consistent weights I've found so far, maybe 50 gr in a hundred shafts Weights will run in a bell curve, most in the middle with fewer on the ends.
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Hanging on pins and needles so far. Never tried spray urethane (I used to dip lacquer and lately have been wiping with spar polyurethane).
Keep it rolling. :thumbsup:
(PS - like the victors kepi, too).
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Stump, I found if you use slow even strokes, about 10" from shaft, it makes a nice coating. The steel wool helps the next coat look even smoother.
Thanks Fletcher, I really appreciate your patience with my questions. :thumbsup:
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I just got my new grain scale and went through some arrows I made. I am sorting them, relighting my pipe, sipping on Earl Grey tea, I should have used something to denote the batch, so I am grouping them by weight. Perhaps go with varied thread colors, i like to serve the first little bit of the lead end of the feathers. there is something calming about wood arrow building and fixing during the off season. Fletcher, thanks for the info. Surewoods and Doug Firs are on my to do list.
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TW, you are very welcome. I really enjoy using stuff I've made. Helping others do the same seems natural to me.
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Fletch sent me a new Reparrow he made specially for heavy stumpin. Great arrow Fletcher now w/135gr Judo installed. In the woods tomorrow. Great job Wannabe. Thanks both.
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I gotta add, Fletcher is always willing to answer questions just like most of the good folks on here. He's answered several for me and been a good help. :clapper:
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you guys crack me up
:smileystooges: :campfire:
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I used a blower I had to speed up the drying time a little. Here are the shafts on their 3rd and last coating of urethane. Will hit them one more time with the steel wool (to me it is important to use a fine steel wool or the shaft will dry with a rough finish) and they'll be ready for the nock tapering.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0301.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0302.jpg)
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TW your work bench is entirely to clean and organized.Lol!
I have 3 work areas and would be embarrassed to post pics of any of them. Great build along!
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Thanks Matt but, it's a mess to me!
Ok, I tried to get a good pic of the shafts after drying and steel wool. They came out with a nice soft sheen and very uniform in color in my opinion. For tapering the nock ends, I use the Tru-Center Taper from 3R's and the Wiffen taper tool. I start with the Tru-Center Taper and finish with the Wiffen. Don't know why but, it works better for me that way. Individual results will vary.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0303.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0304.jpg)
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I always did like the smell of good pipe tobacco burning. Looking forward to the arrow building lesson.
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If you're new to building arrows, one of the key factors for installing the nock is to ensure that the wood grain of your arrows is correct to the alignment of the string. By this I mean that the string runs vertical so the wood grain of the arrow needs to be horizontal. I like to use the classic nock due to the little bump on the side. I make sure it is in line with the wood grain plus it points to my cock feather.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0306.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0308.jpg)
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Looking good :thumbsup:
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Remembering to make sure my nock and grain are aligned, using Duco Cement, I then glue on my nocks after the tapering process. Some may think my taper is short but, I fill the nock with glue and then attach to end of arrow. This helps bring the nock flush to the arrow and I don't have to do any doctoring later. I've yet have a nock fail this way.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0309.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0311.jpg)
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Looking Good so far, I had to light my pipe to get the atmosphere right! :thumbsup:
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Looks alot like my arrow making! I do nothing fancy to my arrows, just stain/seal/fletch/shoot! Good work!
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Yep, these are for shooting and hunting. Not looking at! I've seen some beautiful arrows that would have been just to hard for me to shoot or hunt with. My arrows are tools and while not an arrow master builder, I build them to get the job done. I did the ones below some time back and hunted with them this last season.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0244.jpg)
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Lookin' good. Really like the build-along threads.
Anxious to see how they turn out.
Eric.
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Looking good TW! The pipe looks good, the arrows are coming along nicely but we need to get you a nice grey kepi instead of that nasty old blue thing! :knothead:
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I am REALLY liking this thread! I was originally thinking that I just wanted to learn to fletch aluminums. Now I already have an itch to make woodies.
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GREAT TIMING!!!!! im just getting started with mine. looking good so far.
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All shafts now nocked and glue dry. Next will be the fletching process but, I am waiting on an order from 3R's as I changed my mind in my fletch color. Hopefully it will be here Monday. Please stay tuned..... :thumbsup:
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0312.jpg)
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Good job on the arrows! I also like the hat and the pipe.. thats a good look on ya! :D :thumbsup: Jason
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You make em like me TW, same principles. I like it.
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I have a couple of questions. Since you're waiting for fletching I thought this might be a good place to ask. Hope you don't mind.
You started out with 32" shafts. Assuming you're going to cut those down, won't that affect the spine? And if so, how do you know which spine to start out with in order to get the spine you want after the cut?
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Those are looking great TW. Good on you for doing this. Helping a lot of guys.
Rooselk. Shaft spine is always based on 28". You add or subtract spine depending on length over or under that number. Hope that helps.
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TW
Great build along....do you glue on the nocks to align the grain perpendicular to the string? What is the thinking there? Consistency, paradox...?
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Yes, what magnus said. Plus, Fletcher was a great and instrumental help in my learning process. My bow, is 68", 51# @ 29" and not cut to center. Using the 145gr point weight that I want I will cut these arrow 30.5" back of point and trim down 'til I get good flight. I was going to bare shaft but, instead, I'm going to fletch, shoot and trim as needed. I'm going to hazard a guess but, I think they will probably hit at about 29.5 b.o.p. I will report results as I test. :thumbsup:
Did that help any?
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Macatawa, no, if the grain is running perpendicular with the string you run the chance of splitting the shaft if the nock fails. Thus, in essence causing a dry fire and possibly do damage to yourself and bow. Having the grain horizontal to the string allows the energy of the string to push against the grain rather than with it. I hope I am explaining this correctly.
Imagine taking a knife blade and pushing it along the grain, the shaft will split easier. Now if you push the blade against the grain, it will be much harder as it won't give.
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Magnus, I did not know that. Thanks for clearing that up for me. :thumbsup:
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In addition to what TW said above, the edge side of the grain is stronger and gives a much more consistent spine weight. That is how the majority of the shaft makers weigh the spine.
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Thanks Ric! That's a much shorter way of putting it than my long winded explanation. :biglaugh:
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Very nice build. Thank you for sharing. Looks like a lot more fun then the 6 carbons I put together this weekend
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When I first started this thread, the raw shafts weighed between 410-420gr. Just to show how they gain in weight as you progress I weighed each shaft again with just the stain, finish and nocks. Here are the results:
440
438
448
442
440
447
448
444
446
448
446
440
They are now between 438-448 grains.
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Thanks a lot Wannabe1 I have be wanting to make up some wooden shafts, but do not have dippers. This has been a big help.
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great post,thanks
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It might be a moot point but will you weigh them again after cutting to 30.5 just as a check? Or have you already cut them?
I just made up some 28" bop Ramin 5/16 shafts and the finished product weighs roughy in the 510 range with the 125gr point glued on. I'm hovering right at 10gpp. What are you shooting for on finished total weight? I have a hi and lo so far at 518 and 500.
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One thing I do is weigh them one time before I put nocks on and any shafts that are out of the weight range get another coat of sealer. A quick and easy way to get your shafts closer to the same weight.
TW what did you use to force dry the shafts just a fan?
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Bud B, I will weigh the shafts again upon completion of the arrows and post results. Do you want the total with or with out the tips on?
Magnus, I thought about another coat on the lighter ones to bring them a little closer to the others but, I was still in the 10gr range so, I opted not to. I turned the heat up in my shop room and put a little blower fan I have to help speed up drying time. First time I tried that and it worked pretty good.
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TW. Good tip! Yeah 10 grains is ideal. I was just referring to shafts at 20 or more. Can't wait to see them finished.
Matt
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To keep the post moving, I decided to go ahead and make up our test shaft. Since it will be just that, I didn't care if the fletching was going to be a different color than the rest. I set up my J-8 fletcher and using Fletch Tite Platnum (it adheres real well to the urethane) I begin the fletching process. Ensuring that my nock is in the correct position I do the cock feather first. Usually this is where it would be a different color if you like that.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0319.jpg)
Then comes the first hen feather:
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0320.jpg)
And now the second hen feather:
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0321.jpg)
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Once my feathers are attached, I put a little drop of glue at the tip and end of each feather so that they don't get snagged when passing the shelf, going through targets etc.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0322.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0323.jpg)
If done correctly and with the correct clamp, you get a nice helical fletch. By the way, these are 5", left wing sheild cut feathers.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0324.jpg)
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As you can tell, this is a "Plain Jane" arrow. As one gets better, you can get as fancy as you like. But, for a practice/hunting shaft with no frills, this will work just fine. :thumbsup:
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looks good TW
you know more then you let on gonna have to change that screen name from wannabe1 to are1
:thumbsup: :campfire:
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So you used a right wing fletcher with left wing feathers. My question is does the feather take on a right twist? I have some lefties but my fletcher is a righty. Thanks for letting me know.
-Jeremy :coffee:
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I think it was a left wing clamp. The word "right" was used to mean correct.
If done right and with the "çorrect" clamp, you get a nice helical fletch.
At least that is how I took it.
Martin
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Jeremy, Martin is correct. Sorry for my wording, I have corrected my statement so there is no confusion. :D
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0325.jpg)
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Looks great TW...well done!
Spanky
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Ok, here's where things can get tricky. You will find your own method as you delve into your project. I use a "Cut Off Saw" from Harbor Freight to cut my shafts. It works on wood, aluminum and carbon. I cut my shaft so that my 145gr field tip is 30.5" back of point. This is my starting point to get good flight. I will trim down after shooting depending on how it flies. Right now, arrow is 590gr total.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0326.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0327.jpg)
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0328.jpg)
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Ok, here's the arrow shot out of my 68", 51# @ 29" Tembo. Shot is approximately 10yds. It flew pretty good but, I think I can come down a 1/2" on length. Any thoughts out there? "Click The Photo"
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/th_101_0335.jpg) (http://s415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/?action=view¤t=101_0335.mp4)
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I can't tell much from the shot, but I like to take it 1/4" at a time...that's just me. Maybe back up some if you can and see what it does.
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Roger that, I'll go back to about 15yds. :thumbsup:
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Ok, I backed out to about 15yds and arrow still seemed weak. I did the 1/4" thing and still ended up coming down to 30" b.o.p. Arrow really straightened up in flight at this length. I shot it a few times to make sure at approx. 18yds. That's the max for my back yard. It flew great so, I glued the head on and shot 10 times. It was hitting almost dead center every shot. Arrow came out at 582gr. Don't mind the sound before the arrow hits. It's not my bow but, my 4yr old son hitting the table on our back porch. :D Click Photo.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/th_101_0337.jpg) (http://s415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/?action=view¤t=101_0337.mp4)
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I apologize for the poor video but, was trying to show just how straight these shafts come if you use Douglas Fir. I did not have to straighten one shaft out of the whole dozen.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/th_101_0338.jpg) (http://s415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/?action=view¤t=101_0338.mp4)
Our finished arrow at 30" b.o.p. 145grn field tip and 582 grains total.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/101_0339.jpg)
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Hello, anybody out there? :)
In case anyone's interested, I shot the same arrow out of my 68", 51# @ 29" HH Owl and got great flight also. :D I believe these will work.
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Oh yeah Gotta love those surewoods! They are deffinetly my favorite shaft. I will use others for small game and stumping but they are my only deer shaft! I just wish I live close by to them too! Lol.
On your video. It might be my phone but that was the clearest video I've seen on that site! Thanks
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Yep, now that shot did look perfect! Congrats I think you've got her dialed in...you'll know for sure when you mount the BH's!
Great job!
Spanky
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Great post, I have only made a couple of sets, this helped me out a bunch. Thanks!
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Great job you should have them move this to the How To section for others to use.Thanks for doing it.
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nice. thanks for sharing
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Excellent! Much thanks.
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Nice stuff. It was amazing the difference in flight a 1/2 inch will make.
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Looked very good in the second video (hard to tell in a hand-held). I like that little cut-off saw. I use an X-Acto razor saw in a little miter box.
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Thanks everyone! As soon as the rest of the materials come in from 3R's, I'll finish up.
Tim, as soon as everyone's had a chance to look it over, I will have the Mods move to the "How To" section.
Charlie, I tried to get the best shot I could but, the arrow really was flying pretty good at that point. I shot it out of two bows with the same specs and you couldn't tell the difference.
Like Spanky said, we'll know once I get the BH's on them. :thumbsup:
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Originally posted by Wannabe1:
Bud B, I will weigh the shafts again upon completion of the arrows and post results. Do you want the total with or with out the tips on?
Magnus, I thought about another coat on the lighter ones to bring them a little closer to the others but, I was still in the 10gr range so, I opted not to. I turned the heat up in my shop room and put a little blower fan I have to help speed up drying time. First time I tried that and it worked pretty good.
Just trying to get an idea of how much it changes the weight. Eg. 1/2" length of Surewood equates to X weight average type of thing.
I like the post of going down 1/4" at a time.
And the second vid shot looked better. It would be nice to see a vid from over your shoulder or from just beside you to see the flight path.
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I got out my bigger tripod and this was what I got. Not the greatest camera person in the world so don't get critical on me. This is just to show how the arrow flies. I shot low on purpose as the center of my target is getting real thin and I keep shooting through it and into the plywood.
(http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/th_101_0342.jpg) (http://s415.photobucket.com/albums/pp233/TradNut/?action=view¤t=101_0342.mp4)
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Good shootin' and good flight!!
:thumbsup:
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fancy Don't make you shoot better
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Thinks alot for walking us through. Now I have no reason to gave wood a try.
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I loved this thread. Thank you! I am definately doing to give this a try.
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Way ta go TW, this has been fun!
Eric
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Glad they tuned up for you! Sure is nice working with such great shafts as Surewoods. Can't ask for anything better--straight shafts that fly perfect!
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Flight looks good. :thumbsup:
Now we gotta get you cresting them with permanent markers.