Trad Gang
Topic Archives => How To - Resources => Topic started by: Mike Vines on December 11, 2012, 06:11:00 PM
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I have been seeing a few guys post questions about wanting to learn how to splice feathers, well after seeing the replies talking about doing a butt splice (cutting feathers and butting their ends together then glueing on), I decided I would fill you in on the secret of "Membrane" splicing, so here it goes. I have and continue to membrane splice a feather in under 30 seconds. It really is easier than it looks, and it looks simple.
After you read this, I'm certain you will splice your own, so please post a reply on this thread letting us know how you did, and preferably, you will post a picture to show your creative "Membrane" splice.
First you start out with a full length feather (precuts can be used, but it is a pain in the butt)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1211121719.jpg)
Start at the rear of the feather and (for right handers) hold the feather tip (rear) in your left hand. Pinch the feather and with your right hand, grip the feather and pull the feather back onto itself towards the tip. The feather will pull free from the quill leaving the feather and membrane in one hand (right) and the quill in the other (left). Use an exacto knife to cut the feather at the front where you want it to stop at. You will get the feel for how much presure to use after a couple feathers.
This will be in your left hand...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1211121720.jpg)
This will be in your right hand...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1211121720a.jpg)
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Once you have the 2 separated, you will be left with this...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1211121720b.jpg)
Then do the same exact thing with a different colored feather (one that you are wanting to splice with) I chose black to show you the contrast...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1211121721.jpg)
Once again, use the exacto knife to cut where you want the process to stop at.
Take your front splice with the tail end of the quill still attached, and then take your rear piece with the membrane attached to the feathers, and mate them together to get an idea how they go together. It's OK to sit back in amazement at natures own "velcro". It is amazing how the feathers stick together...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1211121722.jpg)
Pull the 2 pieces apart and grab your handy dandy tube of duco cement, and apply a nice (not to much or little) bead down the membrane of the one you are wanting to stick on the quill...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Untitled-1.jpg)
Then mate them together again, and stick the glued up membrane down on the quill. It will go together like Peanut butter and Jelly...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1211121723.jpg)
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Great job!!! It sure looks easy enough....... :) Thanks!
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Once the glue is dry (doesn't take long) you can either cut them to length to use on your burner then go about fletching them to the shaft and burn them into shape, or you can get out your feather chopper like this...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Untitled-2.jpg)
Then after lining up the splice where you want it ( a couple pencil marks...One on the feather, and one on the chopper...go a long way), give it a little "Love" tap and then Voila...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/768.jpg)
It really is that simple. Not including dry time, it is under 30 seconds, and that's with not to much practice.
Just for craps and grins, I did this while the glue was drying before I chopped the other feather, and while I wrote this, the glue dried enough for me to chop it to show you that you are only limited by your patients, and creativity. Enjoy, and please post your pictures of the splices you do. I along with everyone else, would love to see them...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1211121741a.jpg)
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You da' man Mike! Thanks for the tutorial and Merry Christmas brother!
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I just noticed in one of the pictures, there is an arrow with white with red spliced feathers. My son did that last year. I will also mention he had just turned 8 when he did it. It is that simple.
Merry Christmas to you to Kenny.
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Wow Mike, that is to cool!!! Thanks :)
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:thumbsup:
Here's my first and only attempt at membrane splicing so far:
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l502/MrDwood/DSCN2889.jpg)
I followed a similar tutorial on RMSGear's website, yours is very good, too.
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Great tutorial, I'll have to try it some time this winter!! The only thing I need is a chopper...
Thank you
Cheers
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That is cool! :thumbsup:
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Mike watch out for that snake! lol
I am saving this thread to my favorites so I can find it again after my shipment gets here in (hopefully)mid-January. I am glad you did this with pics. I forgot to put a chopper in my wishlist at 3rivers,lol. How did you get the little red accent in there Mike? If I knew how to draw on the computer/smartphone(errgh) I would show ya what I am going to try. But it will be banana cut in this order(maybe,lol). White-black line, pink, black line, white. Make sense?? Thanks again Mike, Mike!
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Great write-up! I just recently started membrane splicing and it really it as simple as you made it out to be.
I've found the following tips to be benefitial as well, the little details really help make for a quality finished product:
1) Match your spliced pieces with the base before gluing up. You want to make sure the angle formed by the feather and the base is the same on both pieces. Simply take your spliced piece and put it on top of the quill of the base feather, when viewed from behind the feather "frills" should line up. It's possible to get mixed anlge feathers to velcro together but they won't hold up well when shot and you won't have a nice clean line when the feather is chopped.
2) When you remove the membrane from the quill you will most likely have some extra skin on the non-base side of the feather (left side for left-wing / right side for right-wing). Use your exacto and trim this small section off before gluing your feathers together for a cleaner look.
3) Get yourself a cutting board so you can layout your "design" for multi-splice feathers. Having a blueprint to work off of will help with consistency issues when you're trying to make enough feathers for a dozen shafts.
Feather splicing is a ton of fun and your options for custom creations are pretty much only limited by your imagination!
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo29/agtex42/SplicedFeathers.jpg)
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Is there anyone here on TG that sells custom spliced feathers ?
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Thanks Mike... :thumbsup: I'll have to give this a try....
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Mike,
Thanks for taking the time to show this. I have been butt splicing for years but will be giving this technique a try next time I build arrows.
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Anytime guys. If you have any questions, please ask. Also, post your pictures of the feathers you create on this thread if you don't mind.
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Mike,
Not so much a splicing question, but given your feather prowess I must ask.
If you look at the chopped feather resting on your chopper I can notice the irregular divot at the front tip. I have been plagued with my chopped feathers having the same issue. Do you know a way to avoind this?
Thanks,
Keith
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there is a way, and someone posted it on here a couple years ago. You could either hold the base of the quill when you are chopping, or use an extreamly sharp pair of scissors to nip them into shape when your done chopping. It does not happen to all of them, but the ones it does, I just trim up with scissors.
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Roger that. I use scissors also. Just makes me cringe getting that result on natural turkey feathers $$$.
I think I once saw a post suggesting to use a pop-cicle stick and close your chopper on it and trace the blade imprint. Then using a scroll saw cut out the blank. That way it's not your fingers holding down the hurl with potential of a very nasty manicure.
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It's not that bad. It's not rare, but if it does happen, it's easily fixable. Look in some of the pictures, you will see a grey feather with polka dots. It came off the same chopper a couple minutes earlier, and no problem.
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Mike,
Thanks for taking the time put this together. :thumbsup:
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One other thing that works well to give more precision to the shape of your fletching is to cut the quill to length with scissors before putting it in the chopper.
If your chopper blade j-u-s-t clears the quill without needing to cut it, the job on the barbs of the feather looks "factory smooth". No trimming of a "bump" should be needed.
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Guy's,Whats the Trick to getting the Membrane to come off the Quill so cleanly? Mine always tend to bring Up, some of the White Pith with it.What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
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My method is as follows:
1. Place the feather in front of you with the base resting on a flat surface and the back of the feather to your left.
2. Use your left hand to hold the rear of the feather in place and grasp the "frills" just above the membrane with your right hand.
3. While maintaining pressure with your left hand pull the frills toward the front of the feather with your right hand. Don't pull straight up, but rather up and to the right.
The Membrane should lift cleanly off the base within 1/4" of where you started your pull. Continue to pull the membrane off in 2-3" increments and reset your left hand as necessary to keep the base from breaking.
I've found that the black dyed feathers are a little harder to work with (a bit more brittle) but for the most part this method works quickly and cleanly.
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Could be the feathers too. I only use Truflight and natural turkey feathers.
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Thanks Mike,That's what Im having trouble with,Black Truflight's!I'll keep practicing!
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Just put these together for a 1/2 dozen I'm going to donate to an archery club banquet. This will be the cock, and then 2 traditional barred for the hens.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1216121109.jpg)
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I can't get the link to work.
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Try this one below Todd.
Originally posted by Mike Vines:
Just put these together for a 1/2 dozen I'm going to donate to an archery club banquet. This will be the cock, and then 2 traditional barred for the hens.
http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1215121849.jpg
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There, just fixed it
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Those look great Mike. Hope i will have my stuff in time to make some pretty stumpin arrows for the bunny stomp. Wish me luck,lol Btw I haven't forgot that email,lol, just waiting for santa to bring a new keyboard. Mike
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Don't worry Mike. No rush. I think I'm going to put your tip on the back burner and head to Wyoming next year. I do look forward to hearing from you though. Any problems, gjve me a call. As long as work doesn't get in the way, I will see you at the bunny stomp.
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:thumbsup:
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Mike, I've been wondering how this is done. Now you have my creative juices flowing. Thanks a bunch!
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Well get practicing and get an entry in to the National arrow contest. It will be this coming February. Any questions about it, just ask.
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Thanks Mike!
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Nice, thanks!
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thanks. great thread
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Those are great
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Going to have to try this
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That's the way I do it >>>-->
(http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq136/bloodtrailer7/001-17.jpg)
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I just made my first membrane splices. Here is a pic of what I have made so far. I should have my Surewood shafts in next week to put them on.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w29/athorn69/splicedfeathers_zps08b0c245.jpg)
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Originally posted by Horn Chaser:
I just made my first membrane splices. Here is a pic of what I have made so far. I should have my Surewood shafts in next week to put them on.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w29/athorn69/130120_0001_zps9b5fed99.jpg)
THOSE ROCK. awesome job.
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Thanks and sorry about the size. I am trying to get photobucket to resize and it's not cooperating with me any.
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Great thread, am getting ready to try my hand at membrane splicing. Thanks for all the tips.
Cheers
Jase
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Thanks Mike. Your advice on arrow building is always great and appreciated.
I used the How To resources but I think your method looks easier. I did find that you must line up quill angle to have a good match, even then, mine didn't lay perfect.
Here is my 1st Membrane attempt:
(http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m637/cjohntalk/Arrows/1349534110.jpg)
(http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m637/cjohntalk/Arrows/1349534119.jpg)
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Those are awesome Charlie. Careful, it is addicting. You are absolutely right about the quil angle. It was mentioned by another member on the 1st page. Keep up the great work.
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I finally got around to finishing a half dozen arrows from the feathers I had spliced last fall, here's the final result:
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo29/agtex42/20BF8EC9-1FB0-464D-84A6-206A8940C4BE-1492-000002CAE5E5F40D.jpg) (http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo29/agtex42/6D565572-30E8-48E7-B271-863A39B387CC-1492-000002CAED091070.jpg)
Thanks again for the tutorial Mike, hopefully four pages of replies will inspire more folks to give splicing a shot!
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Sweet! Great job! :thumbsup:
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Those are a really nice set there. Got to be some others who have been tinkering around this winter and would like to show off their creations.
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Bringing rhis back up, so those who are wanting to make some cool looking arrows, I have showed the marble dip in a how to thread, now the membrane splice here. So, now get to making some creative arrows and post some arrow porn for all of us to see.
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one thing I noticed is quill thickness as well, if they arnt the same they don't stick as well.
I do all of my feather cutting after they are on the shaft, I tape the quils and hold a patern, cut with scisors.
so when I splice I use a exacto and cut out what I want.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg211/jrchambers/arrows/5a1f1f29-a779-4c4b-9334-cf1ce74a6665.jpg) (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/jrchambers/media/arrows/5a1f1f29-a779-4c4b-9334-cf1ce74a6665.jpg.html)
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg211/jrchambers/feathers/003.jpg) (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/jrchambers/media/feathers/003.jpg.html)
I also started painting the white part of the quill to match paint on the shaft. I don't really do this much anymore, I ruin my feathers too quick.
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I have been wondering how feathers were spliced together. Now I know!
Knowledge is power so I'm going to give it a try.
Thanks for the education.