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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: Faith In Flight on February 08, 2007, 11:25:00 PM
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Ok my arrow woes continue. I checked with MY bow scale instead of listening to the shop guy and I found the problem maybe. It seems im actually only drawing around 45ish. Maybe a little more. Anyway, the most perfect flight i've found so far are full length (33") xx75 2117's with a 125 grain FP. This arrow is WAY to long and to heavy for me. So when I check the shafts, it would seem that the propper shaft at 29" to match what the 2117 is doing at 33" would be a 29" xx75 2113. Does that sound about right? Everyone keeps saying 2016, or 2018, but at 29 to 29 1/2", those aint working. Also, my BH is set, and bow is perfectly tuned all the way around.
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When you say the 2016's and 2018's ain't working, what does that mean, exactly? Do the bare shafts fly nock-high, nock-left or what?
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The bare shafts fly tail right, indicating the shaft being overspined.
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For me, I shoot a similar bow to you...47lbs at 27 inches of draw. The 2117 are way to stiff, can't get them to fly well even with heavy heads and long.
I found 2115 to shoot well for my bow, cut to 30 inches and with 150gr heads.
If you want to shoot 125 gr heads, then maybe 2113 or 2114 is better.
Don't worry about the length of arrows being longer than your draw length, as long as they fly well.
Dan
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Have you tried a 1916? I have some friends who shoot bows in the lower 40 to 45 lbs. They mostly shoot 1916s.
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If the 2016's and 2018's fly tail right, indicating overspined, then it doesn't make sense that a 2113 would work better. Maybe you ought to give 1916's a try, as the previous poster suggested.
One other thing occured to me: how are you holding the bow for your bare shaft testing? I bare shaft test with the bow in a vertical position, so I don't have to make allowances for my cant in determining whether the arrow is flying nock high, nock left, etc. Others hold their bows in their normal canted position, but adjust their interpretation of the arrow's flight accordingly. Thus, if you are canting your bow and getting nock-right, it could mean nock-high instead (or some combination of both).
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I didnt think of that McDave, but I just went and gave it a try, and its the exact result, tail right. The 2113's are weaker spine then the 2016 and 18's arent they?
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Sorry, I didn't look at an arrow chart, I was just going from memory. If the 2113 is a weaker spined shaft than a 2016 or 2018, then you are on the right track.
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According to the chart I found for spine on a 28" arrow
1916 -- .623
2013 -- .610
2016 -- .531
2018 -- .464
2113 -- .540
2115 -- .461
2117 -- .400
So according to this the 2018 is stiffer than the 2113 but the 2113 and the 2016 are so close that if one doesn't work you have to wonder if the other one will.
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Your right they are close. The 1916's almost fly good though, that little extra bit might make the difference. I'll find out though. Tommarrow when I go to shoot i'll pick up a 2113, a 2013 and a 1916.
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I f you're pulling 45ish @ 28in you need a 1916.2016,2018 way to stiff.
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30" 2114 with a 145gr Broadhead seems to yeild perfect flight.
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You really seem to be all over the place with length, BH weight, etc. Are you drawing 45#@29"? If so, I would recomend the 1916. As far as BH's 125- 145 would probably put you at a nice FOC.
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have you tried this method of bow tuning... it might tell you something.
bare shaft Bow tuning (http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm)
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1916 1915 2114 2016 and make sure your not tourqing the bow.
don't care what anyone says have a friend shoot it to with the same arrows just for refrence,, have him draw it back just as far using the same glove and just see what the difference is.
I shoot 48@28 and I shoot 1916's cut to 28.5 with 125's and EV Howler fletch.
I can also shoot 2114's but think the 1916s are a stronger shaft.
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I would also suggest the 1916. The difference in wall thickness over 2013s or 2114s will make for a much tougher arrow. You could probably cut them a little shorter than the 2114s as well. Plus you can get 1916s in the gamegetter or gamegetter II for a little less money
Turpentine
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I use 2013's at that weight and they work for me :thumbsup: :thumbsup: