Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: p1choco on February 09, 2007, 10:53:00 PM
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Hi guys, I'm new to the sport and just bought a PSE 35# recurve. I'm loving this. I've tried some random guys custom. He said it was 55# and it didn't feel too much different. Eventually, I will go hunting. I want to know what draw weight I'll need to take down deer. Any tips, Suggestions?
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Check your state laws....most are around 45 pounds....that will be your low....your high will be what ever you can easly draw....I will say this.....a 45 pound bow at 20 yards will easly push an arrow through a deers rib cage...it will not push an arrow through a deers sholder bone...
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Put the right arrow with a good cutting head and 45 to 50 is all you will need to kill any deer that walks. Good luck and enjoy.
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I agree with the guys above. In Ohio we only ned to shoot 4o pounds. My r/d longbow is around that and I shot a 2 yr old buck and got holes on both sides.....charlie
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good broadhead is the key. make sure you buy "cut on inpact" type points. in other words make sure it has blade to the tip of the point
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A 45-50# bow will do just fine for deer. Can't tell much difference between 35# and 55# ? I suspect that PSE might be stacking quite a bit (or) it's actually more than 35 lbs (or) your buddy's custom isn't really 55#.
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I agree with Pinelander you should be able to feel a lot of difference between 35 & 55 pounds. When going from a 35lb bow I wouldn't go up too drastically a 45 lb bow will handle most deer hunting. Usually we have to work up from lighter bows or really struggle for several weeks & struggling to pull a heavy bow leads to poor habits & not much fun shooting. It should be fun not a chore. Frank
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Be careful not to over bow yourself. I learned that the hard way. A bow in the 50# range will kill anything in north america provided arrows are spined for the bow and your broadheads are sharp. My first curve was a 57#er that was really no problem to shoot...for the first dozen or so shots...then form problems began to show up without me realizing I was compensating by not fully drawing and leaning my head toward the riser. The arrows still grouped well but I don't think a good group at the sake of proper form is a good trade.
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Thanks for all the input guys. I've learned so much from this forum. I'm taking it all in like a sponge. I wish I knew more people locally that were into trad shooting.
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Good arrow flight is as inportant as sharp broadheads.
The easiest path to good arrow flight is Tappered arrows.
A good tappered cedar will fly as well if not better than any parallel carbon or alloy arrow.
Tappered arrows are more spine tolerant,they recover from paradox faster,an they have better FOC balance than any parallel shaft.
Put all that behind a good broadhead and you have the recipe for one very effective hunting arrow,,,whatever you shoot it from.