Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: longshadow on November 29, 2007, 01:31:00 PM
-
What exactly is bow torque. How does it happen and what are the affects on the shot. Also how do you know when it is happening and how do you eliminate it.
Thanks, Al
-
There are two things you might be talking about. One is where a bow's limbs might not be allinged correctly (limb torque), and a straight back pull on the string will cause the limbs to move out of allignment, which is an equipment problem. The other is where we might exert a twisting force with our fingers on the bow string as we draw the bow (bowstring torque), which is a shooting problem. Which one are you interested in?
-
Bow torque is usually caused by gripping the bow too tightly. This causes the bow to rotate in your hand and leads to horizontal stringing of your arrows. A firm, but relaxed grip that minimzes tension in your arm is best.
-
McDave, the one I am interested in is the bowstring torque, or what bird dog said about the grip rotating in the hand... Thanks, Al
-
In order to avoid torqueing the bowstring, we have to keep the palm of our string hand in the same plane as the bowstring. The reason we have a tendency to torque the bowstring is that our string hand at full draw under tension would feel most comfortable if the palm were facing the ground, with the knuckles facing up. That's why some popular mechanical releases are made to be fired in that position. When we cant the bow, the palm of our string hand has to rotate further away from the position it wants to be in, in order to stay in the same plane as the string. The tendency is for the string hand to want to rotate counterclockwise (for a RH shooter), while the fingers stay on the string, thus exerting a twisting force on the bowstring, which messes up our shot.
The reason Bird Dog's advice works is because by gripping the bow lightly, the string hand controls the cant of the bow. If the string hand rotates in a counterclockwise direction, so will the bow, so no twisting force is exerted on the bowstring.
-
By gripping the riser too tightly, you can also tork/twist the riser left or right, which throws the limbs out of alignment with the string. This occurs irrespective of the cant of the bow.
-
What do longbow shooters who are encouraged to take a fuller and firmer grip do to avoid this problem?
-
McDave:
I shoot a longbow and work pretty hard in the target game during the winter. There are as many different longbow handles around as there are archers. Some shoot well for me gripped firmly and some don't. My primary bow, must be shot loose and it is very sensitive to hand placement and what part of my bow hand is receiving the most drawing pressure. I use a finger sling and concentrate on keeping consistant hand/grip/shoulder/feet placement. Twisting torque through the riser causes right/left impact problems. I would also say that heel to web pressure changes cause a similar problem with high/low hits. I think there is some degree of torque in most of our shots. For me, I try and find the grip that most mitigates that, and then shoot it consistantly. Here's my question: If we have very good form for the bow we are shooting and are imparting no torque on the situation from form error, why couldn't you grip the handle very firmly? (like a hooter shooter) Now if I could just develop that kinda form :) .
Regards.
-
I believe bow torque is caused by an improper grip. Weather you grip tight, or loose If you grip the bow in a fashion that your hand/wrist/fingers shift on the grip when you release you will torque the bow, and get poor shooting consistency.
I recently found that the bow I'm currently shooting is shot best by me when gripped rather tightly. I've been attempting a high wrist grip on a bow that has a lower wrist style handle. When I tightened the grip and lowered my wrist (also more comfy to shoot) my groups, and consistency improved almost instantly.
B
-
Longbow shooters shouldn't necessarily take a firmer grip. The tighter one grips the bow, the more hand shock you will feel. I grip all my bows fairly lightly. Don't really even grip them until I'm about 1/2 to 2/3s complete on the draw. I let the grip settle into the palm of my hand as I draw and just lightly close my fingers around the grip. Works good for me.
-
A lot of hand shock is the result of bow design, shooting arrows far too light. Regarding torque, I have had bows that required a rather firm grip, and bows that required a gentle touch.
I have found that finding the pivot point and directing my push to that point, toward the target, even though my hand is touching other areas, the torque is eliminated, and the shots are clean.
The Saxons I have owned required a more traditional heel of the hand grip, as did the Elburgs, and Great Northerns. It is totally different with my Black Widows, I just place my hand on the neck of the grip with my index, and thumb touching, and rotate my hand out at about a thirty degree angle. Everything lines up, and the bow shoots right down the middle.
I think bow design is most likely the most overlooked factor , when we look at torque issues. If I grip my Widows too lightly, I can get some real torque issues.