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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: jonsimoneau on February 04, 2009, 12:56:00 AM
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Hey guys. Need a little help. I have a double anchor. I normally use what I THOUGHT was a deep hook to grip the string. What I do is that sting does in the first crease. Normally, my finger tips were pointed at a 90 degree angle to my left. But since it is winter, I'm doing a lot of basement shooting with a really light bow to work on my form. Lately, I have been griping the string in the same manner, except now I am keeping the tips of my fingers pointing back towards me. My arrows are hitting off a little, but are grouping better. I would have to tune a little different, but does anyone else do this? It feels pretty good. Just wondering, if maybe this is the true meaning of a deep hook, and I was previously doing it wrong? How do you guys do it?
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OK, i just did a little research. I think the way I am doing it now is the way to do it. Grip the string in the first joint and keep your fingertips pointed back towards you. It can't just be a fluke, as I have been messing with this for a week or more. It's working better, so I'll continue to experiment with it.
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Started doin the same thing myself.I notice my release is a lot more consistant and my groups are gettin tighter.Seems like yer chokein the string at first,dont it?
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Remember that you refuse to hold, instead of letting go. Your fingers are a hook all three, and you push your elbow back to draw.
Jeff
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Jon,...the method you are now using takes tension off the fingers with more of a 'hook'...and tension off the back of the hand as well.
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You are learning well. You can go a good deal deeper. I'm not alone in gripping well into the pad of the second phalange of the middle finger. As the string rolls during the draw it pushes up a bit of the flesh beyond the first crease, and makes a bit of a callouse there.
This is a strong position and permits a relaxed hand and a smooth release. Try going deeper. - lbg
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I shoot three under, use a deep hook (joint closest to finger tips), and if I start having windage problems it's generally due to one of two things: 1)failure to have fingers pointing back or, 2) failure to have my shoulders and draw arm inline. The latter causes me to pluck the string rather than just let it go inline. Of course, I'm still a "work in progress". :)
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I have the same deep hook as longbowguy, works great for me and others that I know that use it. Most of the pulling is done with the middle finger. Hand stays nice and relaxed with a nice smooth release. I use a double anchor aswell, middle finger in coner of mouth and thumb by ear/ jawbow. Much like Rick Welch shooting style. Have been shooting this way for almost 30yrs :scared: :bigsmyl: and has always worked well.
GOOD LUCK!!
Raven >>>>-------->
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The only problem I am having with this method is that I like to use the fletching touching my nose as my second anchor point. When I grip the string and keep the tips pointing back at me, it makes it a little more difficult to get the string as close to my face so that I can put my nose to the fletching. Anyone have any ideas about how to keep the string close in?
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When you get to full draw, keep your thumb under your jawbone and continue to push your draw elbow around. Think of the draw as a continous motion, with the tension transitoning to your back and refusing to hold the string any longer at release. If you keep your drawing going back you will keep alignment. Come in tight to the face at anchor, with a slowing of the draw but a transition to back muscles.
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Change of feathers might help. If you need this element a change from parabolic to shield might fill the gap.
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I had precisely the same problem in that when properly alligned (drawing arm and bow arm) I could not reach the feathers with my nose (three under)w/o feeling that my head position was contorted and certainly not relaxed. By moving my fletching further forward (3/8 in) and going from parabolic to a shield cut I found that I was more comfortable and in line with my draw arm. My double anchor is the draw thumb tip joint under the ear lobe and the trailing edge of the feather on my nose. When those positions are achieved, and I focus only on the spot to hit, I continue the rotation of my draw arm to achieve full back tension, and invariable reach a point while rotating where I am not conscious of purposely releasing the arrow and experience an accurate shot. I can tell by the suddeness of the release that I will have a good shot.
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The only difference between what many have described and Rick Welch's method is he draws with the string located about half way between the first joint and the tips of his fingers. If you watch the man shoot, there's no denying he's doing something right! And he appears to be very effective at teaching others how to improve their shooting by using his methods in 2 days of one on one training.
Bill
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I've been fletching my arrows with the feathers set back further so I too can touch my nose to the fletch. With the existing carbons I had, I just cut a 1/4" off of the back and they fit perfect. As far as "deep hook", I hold the majority of the string weight on my middle finger and am nearly at the 2nd joint.