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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: snag on December 03, 2009, 04:06:00 PM
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I've been trying to develop a second anchor point. I find if I fletch my arrows right I can get the back of the feather to touch my nose. Does anyone else use this as an anchor pt? What are your anchor pts?
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snag,
Rick Welch promotes this method. He uses it as more of a "draw length check".....than an anchor point.
Winterhawk1960
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I have just started using it on some new arrows I made up, and really like it. I am finding that my up and down variance on my shots is far less shooting this way. It keeps me from over or under drawing the bow on each shot.
I also find it helps with right left consistency. I have to keep my anchor finger tip held tight to my anchor tooth the get the feather to touch my nose. Less variance right and left at anchor means a lot tighter group on the target.
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I use Rick's double anchor also, and have fletched the arrows I regularly use to accomodate the nose anchor.
I have a number of old arrows I haven't refletched, and occasionally I shoot other people's bows and arrows. When I do, I find that drawing the cock feather under my nose and letting it touch my upper lip (or moustache in my case) with arrows fletched in the normal postion works about as well as the nose anchor. There is very little difference in the impact point of my arrow if I anchor on the tip of my nose with a Welch fletched arrow, or under my nose with a regularly fletched arrow. In fact, I have a bunch of arrows I carry on roving shoots that are fletched both ways and I shoot interchangeably. Of course, for hunting or a scored competition, I would shoot only with the Welch fletched arrows, since that is what I'm trying to perfect.
If you will look on the cover of "Become the Arrow" by Byron Ferguson, you will see him using the "under the nose" anchor. Both Byron and Rick are great shots, and I'm not sure which anchoring method works best.
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I'll have to try the "under the nose" anchor and see if the fletchings are fletched far enough down the shaft or not. It probably depends on the length of your nose too.... :biglaugh:
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Interested in how you would fletch in order to touch the back of your nose.
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are you using this method instinctivly or using the arrow as an aiming point
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Where you place the feathers on the arrow shaft in order to touch the back of your nose will vary from person to person. For me, the back of the quill is 2" from the valley of the nock. To get a starting place, draw a bare shaft to full draw and have someone make a mark on the shaft opposite your nose. Fletch the arrow that way and shoot it for a while. You may feel cramped, in which case the feather needs to be moved forward a little, or you may feel that you have to overdraw to get the feather to your nose, in which case the feather needs to be moved back a little.
For a RH shooter, 4" shield cut left wing feathers mounted so that the angle of the cock feather is between 9:00 and 10:00 seems to work best.
If you're learning the Rick Welch method, you're shooting instinctively, but the nose anchor works equally well for instinctive or gap shooting.
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McDave is correct. I use that method and it works very well. I have set up my fletching jig to make my arrows that way so I don't have to tune the nocks after fletching. You can experiment a little and end up having something that works easily. I have found that I can make it work with shield cut feathers, but not parabolic cut. I end up wit the back of the feather at 9:00 o'clock.
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what kind of fletching jigs are you using?
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I am using a Martin J-8 jig body with a Bitzenberger left wing clamp. The Martin J-8 jig body gave me the level of adjustability I wanted to make things work. I think you could probably get the same result with the Martin J-8 left wing clamp, but I like the Bitz clamp and that is what I have set up, so that is what I use.
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I have a three point anchor. Thumb joint on the back/point of the jaw, index inger in corner of mouth, and the string touching my eye brow. The eyebrow also acts as a draw check to ensure consistent draw length and makes it easy to see if you collapse/creep at full draw.
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I started out having my wife measuring a bare shaft to where my nose touches the shaft as Dave recommended. It measured 2 and 1/8 inches. I fletched an arrow an inch and 7/8 from the valley of the nock to the back of the quill since the shape of the shield cut is recessed. It seemed like it was a little long and I was searching for the arrow with my nose so I flethched another arrow that measured an inch and 5/8. Hopefully, this will be about right.
Tell me if I am on the right track for tuning the arrow.
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Whatever distance you end up with, you should be able to tilt your head over such that your nose contacts the back of the cock feather at full draw, without having to move your head back or forwards. Make sure your nose is touching the back of the cock feather and not the side of it (it feels the same to your nose).
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on my roundback fletched arrows i had to bring them back 1/4" to get them to touch my nose correctly. Shieldback comes back just perfect.
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Are you all using three under when you touch a fletching to your nose or cheek? I have tried to touch a feather to my nose using split finger and it is very awkward.
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My second reference is when is my thumb behind my jawline. I didn't even know I had a second reference point until I read another post in this forum. I have such a big nose it would spoil my shots.
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TTT - do any of you feather-to-nose touchers do this with split finger, or are you all three-under shooters?
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I shoot split finger and touch the feather to my nose. I anchor with the tip of my index finger on the point of my cheek bone and my second joint of my thumb on my ear lobe. The cock feather always touches the tip of my nose right before I release the arrow. Seems complicated but its just the way everything lines up when I reach full draw. Everyone is built different but that is what works for me.
Travis