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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: xtrema312 on December 31, 2009, 07:41:00 PM
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Ok I have read may times about shooting split finger tiller bows 3 under and setting a higher nock point. However, what about the other way around? Do you simply set a lower nock point? Does the lower nock point get too close to the shelf to shoot well?
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I had a CM H56 that I had built tillered for 3 Under. The only difference I noticed is it seemed a bit more quiet when shot 3 Under than my bows tillered for Split. Didn't make a difference on my nock point height, they all are +3/8" to +1/2"...
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For a long time I thought that 3 under required a higher nock point on a split finger tillered bow. However, my experience shows that with a split finger tillered bow the nock point needs to be moved down a little rather than up, so I don't think going the other way is going to cause you any problem. If you can shoot well 3 under with the nock point where it is, work with it for a while. When you're confident in your form, see if you're hitting high and if so go up a little on the nock point.
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Thanks for the info so far, but I think I didn't make my question quite clear.
What happens when you shoot a 3 under tillered bow with split fingers?
I have a used bow and I think it is 3 under tillered. I am wondering if I need a lower nock point than I have been shooting and if a lower nock point with shooting a 3 under tillered bow with split fingers is anything to be concerned about if my nock point gets real low or will the tiller take care of it. I have seen the subject of shooting split finger tillered bows with a 3 under, but never the other way around.
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Answering your question directly, shooting a 3 under tillered bow with split fingers won't make much difference out to about 30 yards. Beyond that you may see a significant difference, but I can't tell you because I don't shoot further than that.
I've asked a couple of well known bowyers how much difference the tiller makes and whether you can switch back and forth between split and 3 under. The answer has always been that it really doesn't make that much difference at hunting ranges and you can solve for any difference you find by adjusting your nock point so you hit what you're looking at.
So, if it was me, I'd go shoot the thing and see where I was hitting. When I was getting consistent groups, I'd make whatever changes I needed, either of nock point or shelf/riser pad I need to get the bow to shoot where I was looking.
Take a look at Rick Welch's Accuracy Factory video; he has a good discussion of those adjustments.
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Thanks for you reply.
I have also heard from boyers that it doesn't make a lot of difference, but yet they tiller bows so there has to be some reason for that. I also have been looking into ILF risers and see they are often tiller adjustable. There has to be a reason. I just would like to understand it better.
I will have to check out Rick's video. I have read where he changes things to make the bow shoot where you look. I have wondered how that plays into bow and arrow tuning. I was wondering it he finds a bow is tuned well when it shoots where you look or if he just prefers that for target shooting even if a BH would not fly right that way.
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If your nock is set for proper arrow flight, no matter what the tiller you should see no difference between split or 3 under. Have been shooting 3 under for over 20 years with bows built for "splitfinger" tiller. Have a couple tillered for 3 under. My nockpoint is the same on both type of bows
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Ditto Graysquirrels experiance, 5/8 - 9/16 on everything no matter which way it was tillered....