Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: cbushee on January 18, 2010, 06:14:00 PM
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Is tuning just adjusting your equipment to your bow?
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IMO, pretty much so.
Once you get the correct brace height set on your bow, then the rest is up to your arrow configuration. I believe that you should tune your arrows with the exact accessories you will be using when hunting, for example: a bow quiver with 4 arrows, string silencers, etc.
I'm a newbie at this trad stuff, so I'm sure they'll be some more experienced archers chime in with some good knowledge to answer your question.
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The purpose of tuning is to get your arrows (or bare shafts) to fly straight and true, without wobbles. This involves:
1. Brace height
2. Nock point
3. Arrow spine
4. Arrow length
5. Proper fit of arrow nocks
6. Point or broadhead weight
7. In some cases, tail weight
As Scott mentioned, this tuning configuration is for a particular bow configuration, and if you change your bowstring, draw length, string grip (split to 3 under), bow quiver, shelf pads, or string silencers, you might need to re-tune your arrows again.
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Blacktail Elite Take Down
I just received a used Blacktail Elite Take Down (with String) from a Trad Gang member and I am confused about the brace height.
Today, I shot it for the first time and was really impressed. However, I noticed that the feathers of my arrow were almost touching the arrow rest. The Blacktail Elite is 60” (I have measured twice) and the Bow String is 56” (I have measured twice). I have measured the brace height from the inside of the riser throat to the nock and it is 5 1/2 inches. It seems too low.
Can anyone tell me the specs for this bow?
Matt
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Originally posted by cbushee:
Is tuning just adjusting your equipment to your bow?
In addition to the things already mentioned, you can also tune your bow to your arrows by adding or removing material to the strike plate on the side of your sight window. If you have an arrow that is too weak, you can add something under the material used to cover that area just above your shelf. Depending on how much stuff you add, you can often get a weak arrow flying great just by experimenting with different thicknesses of the strike plate area. Also, you can get an arrow that is too stiff to fly better by removing material from the same area.
Of course the above applies to those that shoot off the shelf or with a stick-on elevated rest.
Click this link to learn much, much more about trad tuning:
http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm
Then click on "bow tuning" at the top of the page.
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I work both the bow and the arrow.
I select the shaft I want to shoot based on the verious charts or manufactures recommendations,and then bare shaft the arrow but also fine tune my bow with brace hight and strike plate adjustments if I'm not getting quite the results I'm expecting.
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Remember one ajustment at a time.
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it's a combination of adjusting what you can with the bow and arrow to come up with a combination that works for you
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I always hate to say it, but true tuning past the points of finding the sweet spot with brace and arrow clearance issues can only be achieved when form is absolutely consistant. Variations in form will lead to hours of headache trying to tune the equipment.
An archer can only tune as well as the archer can shoot.
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"I always hate to say it, but true tuning past the points of finding the sweet spot with brace and arrow clearance issues can only be achieved when form is absolutely consistant. Variations in form will lead to hours of headache trying to tune the equipment."
Let me just say, Amen! I wish I had a dollar for every hour I've spent through the years messing around with tuning based on inconsistent form. For me it has been a step by step operation. As my form has changed and improved, so has the tuning of the arrows to any particular bow. What I have come to realize is this: a person with very good, consistent form can make even marginal arrows fly fairly well. A person with not-so-good form may have a tough time getting even perfectly tuned arrows to fly consistently. What helped me more than anything else was being lucky enough to get the right arrow for the right bow (finally) the first time. Then my form started improving because I discovered that when I did the right thing every time, the arrow flew the same - the center of the target. Then, as my form became more predictably consistent, I was able to check other bows that had always given me fits and find arrows that I could tune to fly well from them. Once I find the right combination, it is amazing how much easier it is to hit where I want even with a less than perfect release. Poorly tuned arrows just accentuate all the shooting faults. Of course I still have my bad days. It's just that there are not nearly so many and I can usually spot some little thing I am doing wrong and correct it. I envy those in this sport that haven't had 30 years of trial and error (more error than trial) to overcome in order to become proficient shots.