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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: SteveL on February 27, 2010, 02:34:00 PM
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I've been shooting split finger for a long long time now and generally speaking have pretty mediocre accuracy. So I've been playing with 3 under a bit to see if I can get a bit more accurate.
With three under I'm able to get my hand anchored against my face in such a way that it is way more comfortable and consistent compared to a split finger release. And, I seldom make a windage error using the 3 under release and anchor.
But I'm having a problem where I get a weird nock up bump on release that causes some pretty noticeable porposing. It seems to me that I'm putting too much upward pressure on the arrow and it is causing the arrow to bump pretty hard on the shelf. I've tried raised arrow rests, such as the bear weather rest and the T-300 but the same thing happens. I've also tried raising and lowering the nock point with no effect. I'd really like to commit to 3 under, but I just can't figure this one out.
Any ideas?
Many Thanks Guys,
Steve
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Two things:
Generally a higher nock point is required when shooting 3 under. My normal nock point shooting split was 1/2 - 5/8. My normal nock point shooting 3 under is 3/4 - 7/8. If you nock too low shooting 3 under you will get a bump off the shelf.
Many of us who shoot 3 under like to use 2 nocks. Having a nock above and below the arrow allows you to draw without pressing against the arrow with your index finger. Since 2 metal nocks seems like a lot of metal riding around on the string, and can cut your face, some of us also like to use tied on nocks rather than metal nocks. This has the additional advantage of making you feel superior to everyone who still uses a metal nock ;-).
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Thanks! McDave, I didn't go quite that high with the nock point and didn't even think about using 2 nocks. If it ever stops raining up here I'll give it a try tomorrow and report back.
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When shooting three under you will almost have to shoot with two nocks. If your nock fits correctly, when you get to full draw the pressure from the nock above the arrow pushes down the nock about an 1/8 of an inch and will give you a porposing effect, As fare as nock height goes it depends on your set up. I shoot a DAS with a t300 rest and plunger and my nock height is 3/8" but when I shoot off the shelf with my Cascade I have my nock height at 3/4". I use a metal nock point above and tie dental floss below. A good way to tune your arrows is to use some tape below your nock so you don't have to keep tying a new one. Good luck.
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I switched to three under last year and along with the higher nock height and getting comfortable with your anchor and back tension, I think you have to just commit time and practice for a good solid 6 months or more before you will see the true benifits that it will offer you. Some people prefer two nocks and this works well as long as they are a little loose so as not to bind the nock at full draw. Moving my nock height seemed strange but at 5/8" to 7/8" it really made a difference in flight.
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make sure your serving fits the nock. If the nock slide just by pushing it with your fingers it is too loose.
2 nocks will work but it not necessary with the correct serving. this will stop your up and down erratic flight
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Rod Jenkins told us a couple of weeks ago that when tuning a new bow he sets the nock at 1" above knowing that it will be too high then works down from there, because you can get a false "high" if it's too low initially. Good advice by all.
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With three under, you are probably drawing the lower limb a little farther than the top limb, on release, the string below your fingers accelerates before it picks up the arrow, so it snaps into the arrow nock while the upper string accelerates more smoothly. I believe this is why the arrow is acting erratically in the vertical plane
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I shoot 3 under and have the same issues without a double nock set try that should fix your problem.
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I shoot 3 under and was nocking @ 3/4". After getting some coaching and paper tuning my bows my nocking point has dropped to 5/8"...PR
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If your using a tab try one that has a solid plate that sets against the string. When using two nock system a tab like caviler will stop at the bottom nock keeping pressure from being applied to the arrow. It worked for me.
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I agree with paul. did the same thing he did.
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I am also getting this mark on the wrap, about 7" or so from the knock throat. I did the Adock tuning with 3 bare shafts, 3 fletched and got them all hitting in the same area(moving my nock). I put a broad head on the arrow and noticed at close range, the arrows seem to be kicking. I went to the paper and was getting a 5" diagonal tear. My nocking point was off my square, which stops at 5/8". Adding 125grs to the front, along with bringing my single nock down to 5/8" got me perfect holes in the paper. Out shooting in the yard after the paper tune, Im seeing a down range kick in the arrows. After reading this thread, my nocks might be a bit loose, and I will try a double nock set. My nocks arent filed, so I might have to try to heat them in warm water and pinch em a bit?
thanks for the tips!
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If the tuning suggestions that were mentioned by McDave (double nock and high nock point) don't fix the probelem it may be a form issue.
I've found that shooting three under requires putting a little more pressure on the middle and upper finger rather then on the bottom finger. If you are getting callus build up on you bottom finger it may indicate one of two things. Either you are curling the string under and/or you have a low elbow. Both these issues exhurt pressure on your bottom finger and can cause funny arrow flight.
Good luck figuring out this one.
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If you are getting callus build up on you bottom finger it may indicate one of two things. Either you are curling the string under and/or you have a low elbow. Both these issues exhurt pressure on your bottom finger and can cause funny arrow flight.
I thought callous build-up on bottom finger was indicative of a high elbow?