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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: MJB on September 23, 2010, 10:02:00 PM
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Inconsistent draw length ? And what have you done to improve ? THANKS and very much appreciated.
Mike
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Come to a stop and hold. I think the biggest issue with short or inconsistent draw at least for me is not coming to a nice stop and anchor. Once I started to draw all the way back and anchor on my face the same place and then hold it, my groups got so much better and so did my aim.
If you need to, use a lighter bow until you get it.
Good luck
Sam
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Drop down in weight on your bow and get used to coming to full draw before you shoot.
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What has helped me the most is adopting Rick Welch's double anchor. I touch the knuckle of my drawing hand lightly against my ear lobe, then I tilt my nose down to touch the back of the feather. I worked wonders for me. It is all shown and explained in Rick's latest video. His method does, however, work best with shield-cut feathers and with cock feather down.
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All good suggestions here. For the longest time, I had a fear of coming to full draw and felt that I was going beyond the bow's limit. Now I have dropped bow weight and learned a consistent sequence and anchor as mentioned above.
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Was nervous shooting my heavier bows in the house. My draw got short. Bad. Cured by drawing full, holding for a 3 count, then letting off slow. Draw with no intention of shooting.
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Originally posted by Ssamac:
Come to a stop and hold. I think the biggest issue with short or inconsistent draw at least for me is not coming to a nice stop and anchor. Once I started to draw all the way back and anchor on my face the same place and then hold it, my groups got so much better and so did my aim.
If you need to, use a lighter bow until you get it.
Good luck
Sam
Exactly what I have done. I would second this suggestion. Good luck.
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There are a lot of good suggestions here, no doubt. But, still, I think something is missing in this conversation. My post is only applicable if your mission is bow hunting. Now, if your goal is target - best talk with someone else.
I would a agree that good form is important, and consistancy goes along with that.
Still....
I reread my book by Jay Massey where he talks about building his own barebows with a draw length shorter, as with the American Indians. He discovered that he didn't have an anchor as before, then discussed whether or not he needed an anchor....
That was something I tried, to see what he was talking about. And, I understand exactly what he was writing about.
Now, mind you, I wouldn't recommend any of this for someone who's developing form. But, after you have the basics down, you must (and I say must) experiment. Why do I say that? Heavens, I've never had two shots in the woods similiar to another. So, that exploration with your bow is important to your knowledge of what can be done, and what well may be done when you're in the field.
Asbell talks the same when he discusses how a basketball player must learn the basics but then when you see a professional in a game, you see shots that are not "the correct form."
Nothing I'm saying here is to discount the other posts. I'm just suggesting that the subject is fluid as should be your approach to bowhunting once you're impressed the basics into your skull.
Me? I'm depressed sitting here writing on this forum because "the man" tells me I can't go hunting (just yet). So, all's left for me to do is push deer off their beds or stay home... neither am I enjoying because the weather is drawing my spirit to hunting.
Good luck to ya'all.
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getting a clicker was the best thing to do but its basically my crutch so dont lean on one to much if you get one
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Guys sometimes I THINK I'm pulling a little longer than I need to over drawing ? I have noticed allot of arm slap ?
Here's the skinny : If I try what I call a controlled draw. Slowly drawing the bow dig in anchor roughly 29" draw. If I approach a different execution of the draw shoulders relaxed and just slightly bent at the waist then it's 28- 28 1/2. With NO arm slap ..
Also I'm coming to full draw not concentrating to make sure my middle finger is in corner of mouth. Another thing I thought about is from time to time , I don't pay attention to is my fingers balled up or relaxed with a hook. Would this change things?
THANKS,
Mike
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Here is my 2cents . For hunting you arent looking for groups.And for working out form problems stop practicing for groups .That alone is helping to screw up the whole natural shot sequence IF you are having trouble with form. I keep saying go out to an open field ,take your stance and a light weight 35-40lb longbow and go through the traditional form and shoot out (no less than 50 yds) at the horizon. This will slow down the whole draw and anchor so you can get it memorized.You have no target panic casue there aint no target and you get to perfect form.It will also magnify any little mistakes you make by watching the flight and hit. Attach rubber blunts so the arrows will be easy to find. When you groove in a consistancy thats very tight (like hitting your own arrows lying on the ground at 60 yds your on your way. Meanwhile work out the little flaws by doing this excercise.
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Yes , Clicker.
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Hello, my first post here, good site, great place to learn and share.
I find for me that too heavy a bow makes me very inconsistent in draw length so I dropped down from 55 to 40lbs and concentrated on the form and the shot, two anchors, index finger on corner of the mouth and thumb knuckle on cheek bone, focus and follow through and all that. Now after practicing and shooting daily like this for a few years I don't even think about it, the anchor etc are natural and I am now moving up in poundage. So, I would have to say that, for me anyways, not to overbow, be comfortable with your bow.
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Check at 3-5 yards see if you still have the same problem. if you do shut your eyes at 3-5 yards and shoot some arrows one at a time. sounds like you dont have it groved in to your form or a little bit of target panic.
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Buy J Kidwell's book, Instinctive Archery insights. A great book, has super tips on this. Gene
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Haven't read any of the other posts...no time...
I incorporated a double anchor to insure the same draw every time....that also achieves back tension.
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I found a clicker helps me immensely to get a consistent draw length. If there's nothing to "measure" it with when you're shooting, you don't really know. I was amazed the number of times I thought my clicker was 'lying' to me when I first started using it.
You can reach anchor but still be under or over-drawn. Other thing to do is have back edge of broad head touch a bow hand finger if your kit allows for it.
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clicker
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I vote clicker and light bow practice
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I would go with double anchor and a lighter bow for awhile.
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Three things that work for me:
1. double anchor -- thumb knuckle under earlobe and back of fletch touching nose
2. shoulder alignment -- look at the form clock
3. I use three-blade broadheads and the lower blade touching the top finger of my bow hand is my third draw check.
Each by itself is a good idea, all three together really help me stay consistent.
Best regards,
Joe
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thanks for the thread