Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: Jessebeaux on January 17, 2017, 03:28:00 PM
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First off, sorry for so many questions lately! As I've stated before I'm new to the traditional archery world and I'm trying to soak up as much knowledge as possible. You all have all been very gracious and given detailed replies and I appreciate it. Soooooo, new question:
When your purchase a new traditional bow what is your setup steps? Do you tune the bow first (brace height) if so, does this have to be done with the arrows you/I intend to shoot? Or Select and tune your arrows first? Pick weight and feathers lengths?
What is your process you use to reduce how much you have to spend $$$ and accomplish your setup as soon as you possibly can?
My first setup is tuned and shoots excellent. However, I had to go through many weeks if not months of trial and error purchasing different arrows, weighted tip kits, bare shaft test kits and ETC. I want to avoid that this time and do it properly and in order!
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Don't be afraid to ask questions. First thing I do is string it up set then race height and let it set over night. Then I install silencers and get my nock point set and shoot the heck out of it. After I get a good feel for the bow I go ahead and tune it. I have piles of shafts I use for tuning. One thing to do is pick up groups of 3 arrows any where you can carbon and aluminum. A lot of times you can get them dirt cheap at garage sales and flea markets. If you don't have a ton of carbons use aluminums bums in the spine you think you might need. For example if you want to try a 400 spine use 2117 which is close and a 2114 is close to a 500. They won't be exact because of the diameter difference but it's better than buying lots of carbons. One mistake guys make that are new is they go out and spend 120 on a dz arrows that they think will work but end up not. Having test kits will help you to figure it out . If you need different points PM me and I'll send you a grab bag of the sizes most guys need. That will also help you to figure out what you want to shoot. Every bow is different and there isn't a single arrow that shoots like a dream out of every bow made.
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This is the way I do it.
First set the bow up. Set brace height for quietest shot without silencers, set nocking points, then adjust the strike plate thickness by making sure the right side of the arrow is touching the left side of the string when viewed from behind (for RH shooter). It's a good place to start. Then add silencers.
Then I would tune the arrows to the bow by bareshafting and trying different point weights and cutting a little at a time to get arrows flying straight all the way to the target. You may have to adjust your nocking point height and point weight to achieve good flight and maybe your strike plate thickness to fine tune the right and left.
If all goes well fletch one up and shoot both the bareshaft and fletched to get them to impact the same spot.
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Originally posted by crazynate:
Don't be afraid to ask questions. First thing I do is string it up set then race height and let it set over night. Then I install silencers and get my nock point set and shoot the heck out of it. After I get a good feel for the bow I go ahead and tune it. I have piles of shafts I use for tuning. One thing to do is pick up groups of 3 arrows any where you can carbon and aluminum. A lot of times you can get them dirt cheap at garage sales and flea markets. If you don't have a ton of carbons use aluminums bums in the spine you think you might need. For example if you want to try a 400 spine use 2117 which is close and a 2114 is close to a 500. They won't be exact because of the diameter difference but it's better than buying lots of carbons. One mistake guys make that are new is they go out and spend 120 on a dz arrows that they think will work but end up not. Having test kits will help you to figure it out . If you need different points PM me and I'll send you a grab bag of the sizes most guys need. That will also help you to figure out what you want to shoot. Every bow is different and there isn't a single arrow that shoots like a dream out of every bow made.
Thanks Nate! IV collected 100 grain -250 over time so I'm set there I have a few test kits so my arrow collection is coming along nicely. However, how do I tell which brace height and nocking point is best if I haven't selected my spine/shaft?
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Thanks Reddogge
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There are charts for carbon, aluminium, and wood arrows that show what the basic set up could be,draw length,draw weight of bow,tip weight. charts are easy to find and will get you in the ball park, from there you can adjust. I find when I do that I have little adjusting to do.