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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: dmlachin on November 08, 2017, 10:25:00 AM
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I've got a question, I've been shooting 125g field points for a while and getting very consistent results up to 25 yds. I've recently begun shooting broadheads (Zwickey Eskimo) same grain weight and I'm experiencing around a 6" drop at 15yds and over a 12" drop at 25yds. My question is why would the drop be so drastic with the same grain weight broadheads and the same weight and spined arrows.
I'm shooting a 45# recurve.
The arrows are as follows:
30" 3Rivers wood arrows - 50-55 spine
Tips again are all 125 grains - glued on
Any comments would be great!
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I've never experienced anything like that (I use 125 gr heads and have used Z. Eskimos).
Perhaps you are seeing the broadhead at full draw and it is messing with your "aim"?
Though I do use much heavier spine than you are (I use 65-70# in a 45# to 50# bow). That should not alter elevation.
You are using the same length BoP for all arrows?
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Did you tune the arrows?
If your nock point is too high your broadheads will shoot low, and it won't necessarily be evident with your field points.
http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
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Also, the longer the arrow sticks out in front of the bow, the lower it will hit, assuming you are using the point to aim. It doesn’t have anything to do with the weight of the arrow; it’s just the way your eye lines up the point with the target. I wouldn't think a broadhead would stick out enough further than a field point to account for a 12” drop at 20 yards, but it might be part of the reason.
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Stumpkiller, the BOP on the broadhead is closer to the eye so I understand your point there. I've tried to be cognizant and mark the broadhead to match the BOP of my field points.
BMorv, I did not tune the arrows that may be my next step.
Thanks
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Sorry I can't help....
125 grains is a 125 grains is 125 grains...
Never had this issue in 35 years of bowhunting.
I hope you figure it out...and get out and hunt... :campfire:
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It has to be a tuning issue. I'd suggest lowering your nocking point, a little at a time, until the broadheads and field points impact in the same place.
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Bareshafting is a great idea. I use that ACS method (though it's much older than them) every time I put a new string on a bow to establish the nock point - after getting a good brace height and adding silencers.
I'm at a loss as well if it isn't that, or the longer broadhead is fooling your eye.
I shoot various 125 gr broadheads, blunts, field points, Ace Hex blunts, Game Nabbers, 135 gr Judos, and 145 Gr hammers and Tiger Claws and they all would pretty much group together. All my arrows are 31" BoP.
But I don't consciously use the point to aim. I "shotgun" the shaft. Or is it that I shoot my shotgun like a bow? I do a LOT more bow shooting.
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Thanks a lot everyone for the responses, looks like I'll have fun bare shafting and figuring this out over the weekend! I'll let you know how everything goes.
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If you don't feel like bare shaft tuning now, and you're not having side to side issues, you can do as Jim suggest and just lower your nock point a little and see if it helps your broad head flight.
And I'm not sure if you were being serious or not with having fun bare shafting, but I do enjoy the process. I build the bows I shoot, and it's an awesome feeling when I release that 1st well tuned arrow out of a new bow.
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Are you canting the bow? If so the broadheads may be showing you a spine issue that you were not aware of with field tips. Canting for a right hander could show as low when arrow is a bit weak. If canting try holding bow vertical and see what the arrow does.
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If you're shooting split finger with an already large gap, then the broadhead will add some length. But if you're shooting 3 under with something in the 25" or less gap range, length of point shouldn't matter much at all since Most of the broadhead is hiding behind the shaft. To me, a broadhead looks the same as a field point but with thin little wings coming out the sides.
Before playing with your nocking point, try changing your broadhead orientation. Mine do all sorts of funky turns when they're oriented any way other than perfectly horizontal (perpendicular to the string). I've had them heading straight and dip in the last 5-10 yards. I have a working theory that as the shaft bends in paradox, the broadhead also wags, causing some wind deflection. If the heads are oriented to "slice" through the wind, the effect is less than if the head acts like a paddle. That's just a hypothesis, however. All I really know is that as long as my heads are aligned horizontal, they fly consistent and straight. Any other way and my groups more than double in size and I see all sorts of wacky flight. I know some folks here say that orientation doesn't matter at all to them. But I won't do it any other way now -- the results are too predictable when I'm the one pulling the string.
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Wood arrows? Try removing the tips and reglue them on, I had a similar problem once with premade wood arrows, I don’t know what causes it.
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May sound obvious but check the broadhead weight to make sure.
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I use all kinds of quick little tests instead of taking so much time trying to figure things out. To check if your nock needs to be lowered and I think it does. Simply apply a bit of masking tape or wrap string under the nocking point. Two minutes and you have eliminated or fixed the problem. If it didn't change things peel it back off and you are right where you were. Eliminate problems one at a time.
2 or 3 wraps with 1/8 wide masking tape makes a fine nocking point and will last for dozens of shots + it can be moved in an instant. When I get it right I will shoot it for several days to verify then tie 2 on,replacing the masking tape one at a time to keep it in the exact spot. Good luck. >>>----> Ken
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I do the same with masking tape Ken. Sure is easier than tying on an moving nock points until you have nock height worked out.
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It all is tuned....cant makes no difference. I can show proof if need be.
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I agree--- if all is tuned. But if an arrow is not tuned to the bow, wouldn't canting the bow show a bit high or low as opposed to a pure left or right impact based on stiff or weak?
I keep my bow vertical when tuning so that i am sure i am getting accurate feedback. But then again, i can always learn something new.
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Screw in eskilites are 145 grain or so. You'd be surprised if you check them on a scale.
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personally I think your spined to light. i would go with 60 - 65 spine arrow.
Tundra