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Main Boards => Dangerous Game => Topic started by: buffalobillpatrick on May 10, 2005, 03:35:00 PM
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I am going on Water Buffalo hunt to OZ with Paul Brunner.
I will be shooting a rather light weight bow, a Bob Lee takedown recurve, about 74# @ 31" I have some pretty heavy arrows working. Old style skinny 40/60 beman inside 33" beman 300 ICS. 1060gr. total including Grizzly 190gr heads. 14.3gpp
Seem to fly great.
Is this enough????
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Having never been hunting buffalo myself I have no firsthand experience. Based on what I know of other peoples set ups that have successfully taken waterbuff I would say that it is more than adequate, I wouldn't hesitate to use it myself. Good arrow flight, a sharp broadhead, and shot placement are important and a 31" draw never hurt anything either. :thumbsup: Have fun, I get to have my OZ adventure next year! Joseph
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Safe journey and good huntin!!
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BBP,
I have not shot a buff yet but I hope to in the not to distant furture. IMO going by others I know who have taken buff your equipment should do the job no problems. Do you know what speed your 1,060 grain arra is doing?
All the best with the hunt and take care.
Jeff
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I chrono'ed setup tonight, 163fps. = 62.5ftlbs
But they were flying too stiff & hitting left.
So I just filled them with salt. Now they weigh about 1280gr.
These now bare shaft right down the middle with the fletched arrows. I think they are now going about 150fps.
These should be heavy enough!
BBP
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BBP,
1286 gr. @ 150 fps; 190 gr. Grizzly. That will work. Sharpen tip to cut-on-impact. Stay as close to the shoulder crease as possible and 38 to 40% up the chest. That gives most room for error - up; down; back; forward. Diaphram is not too far back from the crease (about 6"); organs are much farther forward than deer species. If quartering from the rear, keep the shooting angle 40 degrees (or less) off broadside. The skip angle with the Grizzly starts at 45 degrees on the buff's ribs; showing almost a 50% chance of a skip at 45 degrees. No skips before 45 degrees.
Have a great hunt!
Ed
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How did you sharpen the Grizzly?
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I get a new file for each new doz. Grizz and lower the factory bevel and continuing it around the tip so that both bevels meet at the tip with a diagonal cutting edge.
Agree with Dr. Ashby on all points, once we see some buff, its easier to point out the spot the arrow should be headed for, I can't wait to get back myself!
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Thanks guys!
I have sharpened both sides like a wolverine head. Today I'm going to use an 8" felt wheel & sharpening compound on my bench grinder.
BBP
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BBP,
Don't use a double bevel on the Grizzly!!!!!
That will put your finished edge right on the braised joint! Edge will be neither sharp enough nor strong enough. You HAVE to stay with the single bevel. The single bevel also gives you a thinner, and sharper, edge. The Grizzly's high carbon steel is hard enough to not turn with the very thin, sharper, edge.
I change the single bevel to 25-26 degrees taper on the one side and maintain a zero (flat) bevel on the other side.
Ed
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BBP,
Thanks for that info. You should certainly not have any problems with that setup.
Jeff
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You might want to consider the Chief’sChoice mod 110 knife sharpener. If you remove the cover and knife guide, you can get the blade ferret right up against the magnetic guide. In about 12 passes the diamond wheel will lower the single bevel to between 20-25 degrees. You still have to grind or file the point by hand.
It also works on the Snuffer, but the diamond wheel is so aggressive it will thin the blade down to nothing on a double bevel if you are not careful.
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Lone Wolf, Thanks, I have the model 120, I'll try it.
I'm taking 2 sets of limbs for my Bob Lee takedown recurve.
62" 74#@30" & 64" 74@31"
I can pull the lighter longer limbs more easily & shoot better groups with them.
I also get just as much energy into the arrow.
BBP
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Lone Wolf, that works great!
Thanks Dr. Ed, Today, I changed Grizzly edge to where it's not on the joint. Also made rear of heads not so wide. Is that what you mean by modified Grizzly? Am also bringing 12 of the long Tuskers, 6 of the Ace heads & lots of snuffers for the smaller game. BBP
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Lone Wolf, that works great!
Thanks Dr. Ed, Today, I changed Grizzly edge to where it's not on the joint. Also made rear of heads not so wide. Is that what you mean by modified Grizzly? Am also bringing 12 of the long Tuskers, 6 of the Ace heads & lots of snuffers for the smaller game. BBP
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How the heck did that happen???
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Yep, the modified Grizzly is the 190 Gr, narrowed to 1" width at the back, with the front edge left the original width; i.e. change the back to front taper to a more gradual slope. This drops the weight to around 170 grains, but give a higher mechanical advantage.
Get them truly shaving sharp for the buffs! Have a great hunt!!!
Ed
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Sweet baby Benjamin that's a ridiculous setup. I think it's fair to say you could kill a humpback whale with it.
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Anyone using duplex shafts have a special treatment for their inserts? Are you just leaving the inner shaft short by the depth of of the insert or are you perhaps using some other technique?
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Gday b/bill,
I would say that your setup would be quite adequate for buff, I use a 70# martin hatfield and shoot goldtip big game 100's with extra weight inserts, Tusker two blade aztec broadheads, 3 x 5" feathers for a total weight of 750gr. I use this setup for all my huntin around the top end and havn't had a problem taking several good buff with it.
BEAR
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Your set-up should be fine. As I've said before, perfect shot placement is more important than high draw weight. Be sure to review the anatomy with someone experienced with buff and wait for that near front leg to come forward. Don
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Well you got advise from the master of penatration. Dr. Ed is tha man...BK