Trad Gang
Main Boards => Trad History/Collecting => Topic started by: JDinPA on December 26, 2014, 05:39:00 PM
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I picked a Bear that was covered in a camo paint job.
I need to fill the two holes in the glass that was used for a sight, but it doesn't look too bad once I got it cleaned it up.
It turned out to be a Grizzly - serial number 7R10426 58" 45#
with brown glass from and back. I pretty sure it's a 1967.
The old camo paint is off but I can see the camo pattern on the brown glass. Once I fill the holes, I'll decide if I'll totally refinish it.
What do you guys think?
Before:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/dunleav1/_57-6.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/dunleav1/media/_57-6.jpg.html)
After:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/dunleav1/IMG_2707.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/dunleav1/media/IMG_2707.jpg.html)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/dunleav1/IMG_2709.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/dunleav1/media/IMG_2709.jpg.html)
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IMO, the 64-67 Grizzlies were the best made. They were great performers with those pretty narrow tips and "custom bow grip".
That '67 with bubinga and brown glass is a winner.
Next week I have a '65 coming that's going to need some rehab too.
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You have the riser looking pretty darn good. I would go for broke and do some work on the limbs. The screen prints appear to be scuffed up so they need replacing anyway.
I did an early seventies Grizzly and it cleaned up really nice with just sanding the glaze off of the limbs and then giving them a couple of fresh coats of finish. Mine didn't have any cracking in the old finish. I can't tell what shape your finish is from these pictures.
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Here's a picture that shows the old camo pattern that marked the glass:
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f101/dunleav1/IMG_2714.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/dunleav1/media/IMG_2714.jpg.html)
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That mark in the glass is probably the reason that it was painted camo in the first place. My guess is that there was an air bubble when the glass was being manufactured that created a low spot in the top coat. Someone didn't see it when the laminations were assembled and the result was a blemished bow. Bear could either throw the bow in the burn barrel, sell it at a reduced price, or do a fifty cent camo paint job on the bow and sell it for full price.
I have been pondering for several months what product is available to use for leveling the glass on bows. In my young adult years I restored a Corvette that needed a lot of glass repair. I remember using some products to smooth the transition between new glass panels and the existing glass in the body. One of them was named featherfill and it was a glorified bondo. I guess that I need to start playing around with different materials to see if they will stand up to the flexing of a bow limb.
I have also considered just using a little fiberglass resin on low spots. Of course that would mean leveling the glass then painting it so that the color would be uniform. Painting limbs is a lot of work unless you want it to end up looking like one of Bear's camo paint jobs.
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I think that I cannot remember the last time I was paying any attention to what a bow looks like when I am shooting it...they were meant to be bent...just shoot it the way it is
DDave
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Yes but we all like a nice looking bow to take pride in. I'd fill the holes with epoxy mixed with paint, sand the limbs, buy new decals from Al Harford and refinish with True-Oil. I wouldn't worry too much about the dip in the glass on the limb.
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Got this advice from Don Ward
yes the fiberglass repair kits from the boat supply places work great you can also use the toner from the kit and mix it into smooth on epoxy to make any color epoxy you want.I actually like using the smooth on better then the resin that comes in the kit bd
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z117/katswal/gelcoat_zpsa6abc6a1.jpg) (http://s190.photobucket.com/user/katswal/media/gelcoat_zpsa6abc6a1.jpg.html)
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Joe, the '67 is probably my favorite Grizzly next to the '59. When you get your hands on the '65 K on Monday, you won't want to mess with this old crappy thing. Just stick it in the box and return it back my way. :bigsmyl:
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Kenny,
The 67 grizzly has similar lines to the 59. I'm going to refinish it and I hope it turns out as nice as the 65 Kodiak you did.
The dips aren't that noticeable I took a picture to really show them. There are a few of them. It looks like the paint marked the glass.
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The 67 Grizzly is a great year bow!
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Joe, I might have a set of decals for your grizzly. I'll have a look. Of course they won't be as fresh as a new set from Al.
Good luck with the re-hab!
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Thanks Kenny. I already ordered a set from Al.
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I did a search but didn't see much on it unless I missed it.
Don Ward posts show the gold serial number lettering replaced. I'd like to know how he does it so I can try something similar.
Thanks,
Joe
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Joe, the gold, as you can see on the Kodiak, is the one color I have struggled with. The black and white comes out pretty good.
I tried a calligraphy pen, but the gold ink is too thick. I tried to thin it but it doesn't show very well on the brown wood.
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I just read the 101 thread again, Don did mention it.
"Myself I use Testors gold model paint and a calligraphy pen. It’s a bit more work but looks OK I think. When putting finish over the lettering no matter what type pen paint or ink you use to letter your bow with you will have to apply your new finish in several real thin coats."
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1967 Grizzlies are perhaps the best in my book. I hope this bow brings you years of enjoyment...or Kenny. LOL!!