Trad Gang
Topic Archives => Build Alongs => Topic started by: trashwood on November 18, 2003, 06:36:00 PM
-
I'm gonna have some pics of Wingnut and me sinew a bow pretty soon......but first I gotta take care of a little sumpin Joemarty brought by........dang I hates 'em sucker
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/snake.jpg
Rusty Yeeeeeeks! Craine
-
Rusty,
Looking forward to the tutorial. As for the snakes, would love to back a bow with one, but you go ahead and kill 'em, eh? ;)
Stan
-
Nice lookin snakes Rusty.... they look like they match up real well.... Terry
-
Looks like great fun Craine! Whats the problem,sir? Anybody that would hunt in a jesters hat shouldn't be scared :scared: of a dead snake?
Looking forward to the sinew job! :thumbsup:
-
WE'as make hide glue. 50/50 weight/weight or about as thick a karo syrup. heat to 120 degrees and disolve troughly.
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew1twwn.jpg
Now for goodness sakes pound enough sinew. get your glue to 120 degrees; i use a thermometer. Have a pot of clean water for your hands.
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew2twwn.jpg
'Em boys that say sinew don't add zip to your bow...jsut ain't done it right. We have the bow tip on blocks to add some pre-stress. Make has got the bow tied down with stout line in the middle of the relfex area. I will add zip, real zip
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew3twwn.jpg
more later this even I got dinner with a pretty little red head....... :D
Rusty
-
where in the heck is JoeMarty finding all those coontails?
You talking about having dinner with Bear? How's he doing? Tell him I said hi :D
-
Dang sinewing would be fun if wasn't for all the pounding of the tendons and the sticky glue. Heck if ya could just epoxy the tendons to the bow that would be better.
About the snakes, Rusty called and I went over and helped skin them. He doesn't like snakes and it takes a real long time to skin when ya won't touch.
Anyway bow is looking good. Rusty is going to let it dry at room temp for a day or two then in the heat box. I will take it home in a week and put in my box till it's ready to finish tillering.
Mike
-
when she gets there make sure ya tell her that ain't a spaghetti dinner cookin' there in the pot... :)
-
deerfly - 'em little coon tials is going on your bow Barfly :)
more in a bit
Rusty
-
Wingnut used a fine toothing blade on the back of the bow to rise a tooth so the sinew/glue would have sumpin to grab hold of. Now ya need to "size" the back...that is put a coat of hide glue on it and let it set up
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew4twwn.jpg
Wingnut and I double team the job. He makes the bumdles out of da pile of sinew and handles them to me.
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew5atwwn.jpg
I don't per-wet the sinew in water. I like to soak it good in glue till it is saturated and softened. Now ya can my a thin ribbon out of it by squeezing it between your fingers.
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew5twwn.jpg
Here is about the size bunble we go for.
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew6twwn.jpg
ys with me so far......dinner was really nice ;)
Rusty
-
I'm stuck like sinew Rusty!
? why's Mike always wearin that ninja band?Wouldn't those sweat drippins add a little more magic?
-
Thems nice snakes JM sent over, look just about right for that bow. Now ya have me thinking about sinew on one I have about done in the basement....
Now, being I'm a married man, I have ta sinew in the basement or the garage, don't get to sinew up in the dining room with all them windows and nice sheer curtains and stuff :D :D ..Good thread.
geo...like to sinew once in the dining room like Rusty...nagel
-
Now listen here well ya. Sinew backing is fool proof. ya can put it in a brick like pattern. Ya can start at both ends and work to the middle. One bundle down each side, one down the middle of the limb from the tip then fill in the spaces. Ya can't do it wrong.
here to two good courses
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew7twwn.jpg
I think it is important to press it well into the bottom layer or back. Wingnut put it down. I come along with my messey fingers and press it flat and down into the back or bottom layer while he gets another bundle.
We like to bring it round the edge of the back so we round the back edge pretty well
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew8twwn.jpg
Pressed and geled. up close
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew9twwn.jpg
Listen when can put on more while it is wet, after it is dry. ya can file it down to make it smooth, ya can file it down and put more on.
Ya can't mess the stuff up.....but the stuff is messy
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew10twwn.jpg
Rusty
-
Just get a good tooth on your back, press all the glue out of your ribbon that ya can, press it well into what ever is underneth it. when apply the pressing down pressure, kepp your finger mosit with hide glue. keep your hide glue at 120 degrees, apply the sinew in some kinda even somewhat orgnized manner.
File it, sand it, leave it only, put more on, take more off.......it is the no fail backing that will indeed add zip to your bow.
Rusty -this ain't rocket science, jut get it on and get it stuck- CRaine
-
aahhh, I see ya' got the chrono in the glue already, so that's the secret to the extry speed... :eek:
-
seriously, this is great stuff. My bud Steve tells me the preparation of the sinew is really a job, maybe worst than applying it. You got any tips or advice fer that?
-
ain't so deerfly - it is great fun. I got the wardrob for it, I got the IQ for it, I am emotionally equipped to do. Just pound it into submission and tear it apart. veeeery theraputic.....then ya glue it all back together agian on a piece of tree ya did exactly the same thing to. The sum is greater than the parts...it is sooooooo satisfing and it is messy as a pig in a mud hole.......how I ask ya HOW could it get any better.
Rusty -liked to finger paint and jump in mud hole when young- Craine
-
I've got a question for ya Rusty.... At what point do you apply your sinew....Before the bow is bending ?after floor tiller? or even further along say within 3 or 4 " of final draw??..... Terry
-
Terry since I pre-stress some reflex in all my sinew bows I want the tiller to be pretty good so the sinew will shrink and hold the pres-stress in. It's nice if the limbs are stressed aobut the same. I have even sinewed bows that were already tillered and shooting. I've sinewed them that were in real good floor tiller. Mostly I just want the limbs bending the same and in pretty accurate tiller what ever stage they are in.
On most of the sinew bows I that them to about 16" and a real good tiller there.
Rusty
-
BTW if ya sinew the bow in pre-stressed reflex and it is still pretty stiff compared to your target wait the sinew will keep adding reflex into the limb as you remove belly stock.
this makes hitting target weight more difficult.
Some fellows string their bows backwards to hold the pre-stress relfex in while they sinew them. This works great too. This method puts a lot of reflex in the bows and it is distritubed more evenly thru the limbs. I like to add the reflex more like the r/d that is more toward the tip.
Well the point is if ya string your bow backard to hold the relfex in ya have to tiller it pretty far down the draw length. So I guess I'd say get it tillered pretty well how ever ya do it.
Sinew applied to a flat limb will add some zip to the bow cause it will pull the limb into a little reflex on it own and it will stop the natural amount of set. A sinwed limb put into pre-stressed reflex will add !!!ZIP!!!. The sinew will hodl the reflex. I have even had sinew lift the limbs off the blocks as it dried. Ya know ya'as adding flue to the FIRE!
Rusty
-
Another question for ya Rusty. A few folks have had problems with sinew coming off at the bottom of the arc of the reflex curve, trys to span the curve as it dries.
Never happened to me but it drove Cooter crazy on a couple of bows he did, and a couple of guys posting on the LW last year had the same thing happen. ...What do you think?
-
Geroge - I have not a general problem in the recurved areas at all. I have had sinew try to lift though. I use a needle and syringe to inject hot hide glue under the area and then whip it down with b50. I let it set for a week and start again. I really haven't had a major problem with sinew tring to lift but then again I don't put real sever reflex in my bows. I read somewhere that a bowyer wrapped the sinew in some areas that he thought might lift due to shrinking of the sinew and thus pulling loose from the back.
What I'm looking for is a bow that will delivery a 10gr per pound of draw area at 160 fps. 160 fps is my natual "groove". I know we talk about 180fps bows. at my 26" natural draw I don't get them at draw wieghts I want to shoot. I'm plumb happy, plumb tickeled pink with a fine shooting sinew bow in the 50 to 55 pound range sending a 600 gr arrow 160fps. A bow that is well shot in, no tricks on the speed trap without too much reflex, good sweet shooter.......nice tidy and short.......that is what i'm about with sinew.
I leave the fire breathing missle lunchers to the better shots in the group
Rusty
-
BTW I have personally shot a sure nuff hyperspace sinew missle luancher that was 65# draw at my draw 52" ntn and sent a arrow thru the speed trap with me shooting it at 183fps. Bow was built by Brad Smith. Started with 8" of prestressed relfex ended up with 4 or 5 inches left as I recall. Brad could shoot up a strom iwth it......i couldn't even get the bow strung :)
Rusty
-
Originally posted by trashwood:
deerfly - 'em little coon tials is going on your bow Barfly :)
more in a bit
Rusty
this might be a small point Mr. Rusty Sir...but barfly is going to Killdeer, not Deerfly...sorry about that deerfly! (I just gotta try and help out when I can....haha)
-
Oh ah ah well thanks Calvin....did i get a little confused???? dang brain cell are going fast at my age :)
Rusty
-
the sinew is hard and amber colored, I'm gonna move it into the drying room. about 95 degrees and 30% RH.
I'll get ya a pic tomorrow
Rusty
-
I didn't mention it before I see but this is an interesting bow. the belly is of garlite (sp??) and man made baleen/horn like substance. I don't know anything about it. It will be intersting to see how the bow preforms.
If ya look real close ya can see the dark belly lam of garlite in some of the pics.
Stay tuned. gonna be interesting to see how she flings an arrow
Rusty
-
Rusty,
Garolite is a phenolic that Joe Don turned me on too. To tell the truth, I'm trying to get down a design for a hunting bow for myself using baleen on the belly. The stuff is so darn expensive I decided to do my experimenting with the garolite. JD says it works a lot like the baleen and I can make a lam for a bow for about $4.
We'll see when it's dry.
Mike
-
I thought I might save someone from making a mistake I did on my last sinew bow.....I had a lil 56" osage bow 65#@28" I had tillered and shot in when it developed a crack, she was showing about 1 1/2" of string follow.... I plugged the crack got it on the blocks like Rusty is showing got her all sinewed up and let her set for 3 months it was holding 1 1/2" of reflex..... I took her out and put a snakeskin backing on her..... got to looking at it the next day and I was now showing an even profile I had forgot to put her back on the blocks when I introduced moisture from the hide glue.. Well I took her out and tried to get her back on the blocks and had a small crack split out from my plug.....Fortunately for me Mike ( Wingnut) Just happened to be coming out to AZ for a Sabatical with his better half and we met up in the high country.... I took the bow with me and gave it to him to work some magic on.....He did an awesome patch on it and I retillered it down to 53#@28".....I've got about 1500 arrows through her and she'sholding up nice.... Shows about 1/2" of string follow just after unbracing.....Hope my mistakes help someone down the road.......Terry
-
Man, Hadn't thought of that Terry. I just sinewed a bow tonight (only my 2nd sinew job...hate the mess) that I'll be putting snakeskins on. Thanks for the tip!
Throwing out another tip, I accidentally discovered a handy way to pre-soak my sinew bundles in warm water. I kept my hide glue in a plastic grocery store container that I floated in a pot of hot water. I kept a short (8") 5/16" dowel floating alongside the plastic container to mix the hide glue after running upstairs periodically to nuke it. Anyway, I found I could drape 4 or 5 sinew bundles over the floating dowel to get them pliable while I worked on laying in another bundle. The dowel kept them neat and tidy...alot easier than having to fish discheveled bundles from the bottom of the pot. :wavey:
BTW, Think 2 weeks in a warm, dry basement is long enough to allow 2 layers of sinew to dry? I'm trying to get this bow done for Christmas.
-
Really good point Terry as I have had exeactly the same thing happen to me when I snake skinnned a sinew bow. From then on I like you put the skin one and put it in the blocks to dry back to the orginal profile
BTW when "I" talk about a sinew bow. I'm not talking about an osage bow with sinew on it. I talking about a sinew bow with sinew on it
for example
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/turkeystick.jpg
50" ntn 1&1/2 static lift in the tips, 62#@26" (i draw it 26") est 2000 shots thru the bow, 3 hunting season and one 3D season......1" of set thru mid bow. now that is a sinew bow mate
Rusty
-
LOL George, the reason is ya ain't never built a sinew bow yet. Ya'as think about slefbows with sinew on them....there is a big difference :)
Rusty
-
Hee is what Wingnut's Faux Baleen looks like now. It's be in the drying room for a couple of days and ready to go in the dring box. The sinew looks dry, feels dry but has not hit the maximum shrink yet. The sinew/hide glue "shrink" is what we'as after. that is the magic in sinew. Ya make sure that both limbs are not glued down to the blocks so the shrink is free to work it's magic.
http://stavestobows.homestead.com/files/sinew11twwn.jpg
Put her in the drying box and let her load put the heat. She storing it up to fling 'em arrows
Rusty
-
duh, the light just went on, "shrinkage" :knothead:
thanks Rusty, gotta' work one of these into the schedule and feel the "magic" myself. :)
OK Calvin, I got yer number bucko... ;)
-
Deerfly...I am waving the white flag!!!!
:wavey:
-
yep deerfly the reason ya put pre-stress (reflex) in to the sinew bow is cause when the sinew shirnks it holds that reflex. Sinew shrinkage on dring is the fire in the belly
Rusty
-
How do you guys go over the tied down middle section with the sinew? if it is tied down...I dont get it. I am planning on starting to sinew my first one in a week or two. are 8 elk tendons enough to do a short osage pony bow BTW?
...oh yeah. "makin sinew heap work" think I gave myseld tennis elbow pounding out them things!
-
Ahhh, I sure have missed your pictorials Rusty.
The bow I hunted with this year was a snakey, sinewed, diamondback-backed, Torges-style osage bow. Sinewed it straight, it took about 1" of reflex when it dried, which it's since lost. It's now straight again and holding there.
- love that smell
-
Calvin,
I used artificial sinew to tie it down. Just drill two holes in the board not the bow. One on each side of where the center of the bow rides and thread the art sinew through the holes and around the bow. Tie it down tight and when the sinews dry, just clip it off tight to the sinew on the back. Works good and it will be under the grip.
you could probably do two bows with the sinew you have pounded so I think it's about right.
Are you using hideglue or knox?
Mike
It's at my place in the dry box at 90 degrees and 30% humidity for the next week. We'll take a look then.
-
Mr.Nut. that makes sense! I will stop at 8 tendons then, dont wanna be short. I'm kinda happy about that...I was considering shipping the things to a sweat shop to finish them up LOL.
one more quick question if I might...on these bendy handled sinew bows, is there much more thickness in the handle area? and what are you gentlemen preffering for handle wraps on these type of bows?
...I will be using (store bought) hide glue too BTW.
-
Calvinator - I like to rubber cement two pieces of leather under the grip area and one piece over it. My favorite grip wrap this years is some barbie doll pink down rigger line. This down rigger line other than being such an obnociuos color no one will speak to me is kinda like hollow. The tube shape flattens in to kinda of a tape shape but still offers a lot of grip-itis. Da down rigger line also came in greenapple green. The pink stuff just feels so good in your hand
Rusty
-
Calvin,
DON'T DO IT!! No dang pink handles allowed. That Trashwood needs to get in touch with his male side. (not that male side) Anyway a wrapped grip with heavy leather or cork under is the way to go. They look and feel good. A nice black or brown lacing will do fine.
Mike
@#$@#$ pink hand wrap, next thing he'll be putting snake skin on and namin them Lucy
-
LMAO!
-
Calvin..how long is buffalo sinew?
Adam...IMO no way is 2 weeks long enough on drying sinew..6 weeks maybe and 8 would be better.
-
Mickey...all the buff sinew I have gotten has been slashed off by meatcutters...not sinew savers. The pieces I have are about6-7" long...I would suspect if one was trying to maximize the length it should go out to 10-12". You might ask Doug Campbell how his turned out, he saved the legs from the bison they killed when I was out there, and all of them since. I hadda go home before he got that far. (sniff)
I have only ever bashed emu, elk and buff sinews...the buffalo is the easiest in my opinion. feels right too.
"muchum medicine"
-
BTW I noticed the sinew had lifted the tips off the blocks when I checked on the bow today.
Mike
:D
-
Wingnut - did ya hear 'em afterburns winding up? Fire in the belly, i tellya. Where is 'em boys that say sinew don't add no fire to a bow?????
When that little sucker turns all the heat it's taking on and shrink'n in, 'at afterburner will be blowing blue flame all the way to the target :)
Rusty - sinew is magic- Craine
-
You boys don't start askin about that "Buff sinew" from Montana.It's already here in Mo.tucked away nicely!
Thanks Doug.HeHeHe :bigsmyl:
-
now 'em technocratics don't believe it helps any but let me tell ya it do....when ya'as sinewing your bow make sure ya get a little deer hair from just over the heart mixed in the glum. I always put a few stranes of a turkey feather, little squirrel tail hair......Much MOJO, your bow knows what to look for.
Rusty
-
Well yesterday we had "lift off", today we have an additional 1/2 " of reflex. Now i started with 2" so I'm really looking forward to what the next couple of weeks bring.
Mike
-
That things gonna look like a Texas Longhorn... Glad you're tillering it and not me.... :D ... Terry
-
Lookin forward to seein some of them bows in person.
See you guys Saturday :D
-
Took the bow off of the form this morning. It had lifted so far that it was flopping around. Back in the heat though. Figure I got one more week and it's tiller time.
mike
-
Mike I know you know that sinew won't really get done all it's gonna do for several months. Some tillering early will help keep the reflex coming eveningly but depending upon how consistently thick the sinew is and how right and regular the stave wood was, it's final tiller shape won't be known for sure for some time. True?
I've only made a few sinew bows but not one I've made kept it's initial shape after a few months of drying. Seems like the longer it drys the smaller the outer limbs can be. It can get into trouble if you don't leave enough bow in the middle. I busted the handle outa one that started out a 45# tillered bow and wound up closer to 55# after sinew and seasoning.
-
yep, that sinew will keep curing for ever. this bow is kinda different. It's really and experiment in building a balleen bellied bow. I glued a bow up in my R/D jig with garolite on the belly and osage edge grain on the back. took it down to size and got it moving a little on floor tiller.
Then we sinewed it.
Whe the sinew is dry, I'll finish the tiller from the sides and belly. maybe some sanding on the back if necessary.
The bow is in a box at 90 degrees and 30% RH. 24/7. they dry pretty fast that way. i will start weighing it daily next week to see if it's loosing any weight.
Mike
-
Oh my. Sinew backed edge grained osage. Hummm. I loved those baleen bellied bows JD and Dean made. Garolite. Where do a fella find a Garolite, in the bottoms or up on the ridges?
-
Garolite is a phenolic. JD turned me on to it. He says it works a lot like balleen and it's real cheap. Heck I think I paid $15 for a 3'x3' sheet. That will do a lot of bows.
Mike
ps I know it's not primitive but it is fun to play with.
-
"glass cloth impregnated with synthetic resin"
Humm.... Fiberglass. Should give some real benefits.
I like to spearmint perty good myself and have often thought of making a "real" glass bow. I never could get anybody to glue me up a blank and don't want to invest in the setup. I got a boy that will probably have me one this spring. I only see him around 3d season. I set him up on some selfbowyerin stuff.
Sinew backed and phenolic bellied selfbow should make a real humdinger. Trapped down nice and skinny on the belly side maybe?
-
Man, I go to the woods for three weeks an' you give Barfly to the next pretty face that comes along... :scared:
Aw Rsuty, how couldja?
I'm gonna go sulk now.
Killdeer~the woman he left behind
-
not to worry Killdeer, transite ischemic episode. I'll take a couple of hits of O2
:knothead:
Rusty
-
A skewed schematic?
Those TIAs are the pits!
Hope my sobbing didn't raise the humidity in the drying room...
Killdeer~snif~
-
When you guys are drying this thing in your heat box, are you throwing it in by itself or while it is still tied down to the board?
-
Adam, in a few days in the hot box the sinew lifts the tips off the blocks (usually). No use keeping it on the form then. As soon as the limbs lift free of the blocks on the form I just cut it off. It took about 4 days for the sinew to lift the tips off the blocks with Wingnuts bow.
Rusty
-
Trashwood, Have you tried to hot box any bows with statics or recurves?(sinewed of course)
Curious if it would be more inclined to lift the sinew from the curves?(drying faster)
-
Thanks Rusty. I let the sinew dry for a few days on the blocks (~2") as it sat on top of my funace. Didn't get liftoff, though, so I took it off the blocks and threw in right in the hotbox (105 deg F). I'm checking reflex daily and so far it's picked up 1/8". Right now its at 1-11/16" total.
Wonder if I just didn't let it set on the blocks long enough or if 1-2 thin layers of sinew on a 66" bow doesn't provide enough "yank"? (1 thin layer on the whole bow, leftover sinew went on as a 2nd layer on lower limbs).
BTW, The purpose of the sinew in this case is to keep the back intact. The stave had very thin rings (18/inch) and a myriad of small checks. Nearing final tiller, I noticed that a few very tiny horizontal cracks were trying to form by jumping across the closely spaced checks. They just screamed, "Splinter!", therefore I opted for the thin sinew job.
Rusty, I've always enjoyed and learned alot from your bowmaking forays. Thanks for posting! :wavey:
-
Timo - I have only made one sinew backed recurve. At the time I sinewed the bow I cross wrapped the back in the place I tought the sinew would tryt to lift. When I tillered the bow I cut thru the sinew on the belly. When the bow was tillered I file off the cross wrapped sinew on the back and wrapped it with B50. There was only a couple of days that the recurve area was not held down. the bow has held together with no problem.
One thing I do is I get a pretty aggressive tooth on the back of the bow before I sinew it. This could be one reason I don't have any problen with the sinew lifting since my first one.
Rusty
-
Timo, i just sniew to the static, sence it dosent bend anyway, dont have to worry about pull up. loyd
-
Well she's a holdin anyway!Even pulling them up a bit.I checked it lastnight,and there is very little pressure on the preload.
Can't wait!
Rusty ,wingnut, Hows things going with your sinew bows?
-
I started work on the tiller on my little sinew bow yesterday. Looks pretty good but is a little lighter in draw then I wanted. Can't complain too much as this was an experiment from the start. I do think I will go back and put on another course or two of sinew on the limbs to see what it will do. I'm at 40#s now and would like to get 45#. Rusty thinks that we should get maybe another 5#s in the process. I'm also going to force another inch of reflex in durign the process.
Wish me luck.
Mike
-
Mike, is that the bow with the funny named stuff on the belly?(can't remember what you called it) :confused:
-
Yep funny named stuff. Garolite.
Holding it's lines real nice, but not quite enough weight. Rusty told me that we should have put more sinew on when we were doing it.
:knothead:
Mike
-
Mike, curious if you a Rusty have done any playing around with horn?
Got to thinking the other day about mixing horn dust/powder, with hide glue? Think it would have any strengthining effects?Elastic?
-
Well this little bow is back in the news. I walked by it the other day and it went "pissssst, hey mister ya want to kill a deer?"
Of course, I listened and got it outta the pile on the chair. We went out and flung a few and I was very surprised at the speed and manners. I didn't like the tiller as much so we went back yto the shop for a little pick me up. Ended up taking a little off the lower limb to get her bending right.
Put it in the hot box over night at 100 degrees and shot her again when she cool off.
WOW! now that's what I'm talking about.
It is right on 50# @28 and is only 60" long.
Mike
-
BTW I put on some halibut skins I had in the freezer this mornign.
We'll get a look at her tomorrow.
Mike
-
Sinew, the gift that keeps on giving.
-
Nice thread guys, I just finished up a Garolite belly bow myself. I have made a couple so far, both have turned out real nice.
On this one I decided to use walnut for the core wood, Bamboo backed and thicker (bamboo) than normal and a little more reflex than usual. My thinking The Walnut makes the limbs light, is not doing much of the work as the garolite and the boo is the major power. Well I can say it shoots real nice, and I think it is the fastest bow I have ever made. :) Will try to take some pictures one of these days.
Jim Nichols