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Topic Archives => Build Alongs => Topic started by: GREYFOX on March 05, 2006, 08:26:00 AM
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I need help; I read on here a while back the procedures for attaching flint points to cedar shafts but now that I'm about to attempt this endevor I can't find the instructions.I have the points, shafts,turkey pointers,and the device to put the hardwood piece in the end of the arrow.I would just like to reread the instructions again, ANYONE REMEMBER THE ARTICLE I NEED?
Help please. GREYFOX.
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All I do is make a notch in the end of the shaft to fit the point, add some pitch glue, fit the point so the arrow spins well and wrap with sinew, art sinew or thread set in glue. With the pitch glue, if the arrow doesn't spin true after wrapping, I just heat it up a bit and reposition the point til it does spin true. Pat
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I notch the shaft to fit the head, then with it set in that notch I get it to spinning straight. One spinning straight I dribble CA glue in there to hold it in that position. Then come back and use my hide glue and sinew to wrap the head.Here are some heads mounted pre-sinew wrap. The one on the left with CA glue the one on the right with pitch
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v247/theferret111/flintmount.jpg)
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mickey,
those look great, could you post them up when you get them wrapped? i'm getting ready to do some myself and would like to see the wrappin pattern.
thanks,
dave
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Here ya go Dave
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v247/theferret111/flintwrapped.jpg)
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Very helpful pics, Mickey - saved them to my "Knapping" folder for visual reference.
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I like to mix pitch with a little charcoal and bees wax, and wrap with sinew soaked in hide glue. The slow cooling pitch makes it easier to get the head lined up. Also makes it a lot easier to replace a broken or dull head.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b327/selfbow1/000_0042.jpg)
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thanks guys, i think i can do it...... those are some helpful pics.
now mick, you better go stomp that snake crawlin across yer shop floor....... :bigsmyl:
dave
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I know this is a Little Late in the Thread, but What Kind of Sinew do you recommend for such Fine Hafting Work? I have a couple of Arrows I want to make for a Good Doctor I am being Treated by.
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I like to use elk backstrap sinew. The long threads make easy work for tying in.
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Love that pic (and the arras), Bondo - another "save".
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would the artificial sinew work ok? i've got some that's a little thicker and i untwist the strands. hard to tell from the real stuff. maybe soak it in super glue then?
dave
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David, sure that would work.
I use mainly ostrich sinew but have used deer sinew as well, the only differernce is in the length.
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Thanks Micky & bondo. I had a few stone points given to me for my black bear hunt in June with the LDB. Now I'm ready to tackle putting them on some shafts...Jeff
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Hey , thanks to everyone that responded to my original post. I too like the pictures and only hope my arrows come out half as nice as those. Thanks again. GREYFOX
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So, if I were to Purchase some Back Sinew from say Lost Nation Archery , there would be enough for 2 Arrows? They have a pretty good sized hunk in their Catalog.
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There is alot more sinew in one backstrap sinew than it looks like. One elk backstrap will do many arrows. I've used one to make a sinew string, and have plenty left to halft several arrows.
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seperate the artificial sinew into halves or thirds and then twist it up to a smaller piece then wrap it and then slather it with super glue gel
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I always feel that it is worth going through a little extra work to use natural halfting material. It is by no means less effective, and is really no harder than useing modern material. This point was halfted using pine pitch and sinew soaked in hide glue. Two years ago I used it to shoot completly through a whitetail, and the point is still as solid as the day I halfted it. JMO.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b327/selfbow1/100_0103.jpg)
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I use the same hot melt glue they sell for gluing on field points and broadheads to glue the point to the shaft. I also like to use real sinew mostly because of the shrinking effect when it drys. However, I don't bother to use hideglue when I put on points, I just soak the sinew in warm water and wrap in on wet and let it dry, later I coat it tite bond.
danny
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/wakolbinger/river%20cane/IM002958.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/wakolbinger/river%20cane/IM002953.jpg)
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I use pine pitch and artificial sinew.
(http://photobucket.com/albums/v243/leico526/Nov22597.jpg)
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linc,
how deep is the head set into the shaft? i'm sure it's not but it looks like it's just resting on the tip.
dave
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Dave your shaft should go at least 1/4" past the notches and be tapered to meet the head
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gotcha, so the shaft should be shaped around each individual head? is it best to just start a slot then working it in and shaping as you go? and, how,or do you, taper the shaft so it's not just sticking out square?
thanks,
dave
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Tapered with.......Sand Paper, Hasp, or does it matter HOW it gets done?
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I actually hold the head next to the shaft where I want it to go and trace around it then cut it with my scroll saw and finish fitting with sandpaper. Done this way the head will actually slide in from the side instead of from the end, because heads are often misshaped and often don't match each other, so yes my slots are shaped for each individual head. A little more work, but worth it in the end to me.
Some just do a V notch to put the head in.
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should someone new to this archery stuff start doing its own arrows from the tip to the head, or should i work my form and shooting before getting into this stuff ?
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Dave,The head is set into the shaft about 1/2".
What I do is taper the end of the shaft before hafting the arrowhead.When I haft I apply the pine pitch into the slot,position the head and true.As the pitch is cooling I form it smooth and coat the tip of the shaft at the same time,giving a smooth transition from the head to the shaft.To apply the art.sinew I heat the pitch a little and press on one end of the sinew.Then I wrap and tack down the other end of the sinew the same way.
I tape 2 hacksaw blades together to cut the slot,then I work the slot to fit the head.I use the pitch to fill in any gaps.
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I love this thread and hope it gets put in the how tos Forum after it runs it's course! Hint, hint, hint! :)
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I taper the shaft first like Linc. Then cut a slot with my bandsaw. Then I open the slot by folding course sandpaper and working through the slot til the head fits. Add pitch glue and place the head(warmed) in and true. Then heat the pitch a little and wrap with sinew, artifical sinew or thread. When done, and before sealing, I take a sharp knife and reduce the point of the taper til it's a smooth transition to the head. Then seal with superglue, TBIII or warm or thinned epoxy. Pat
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another excellent and informative thread.
thanks guys. :)