Trad Gang
Topic Archives => Build Alongs => Topic started by: Cupcake on May 23, 2008, 06:50:00 PM
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Hello Tradgangers,
I have been itching to build my first bow and am now proceeding to do so. I got a shipment from Bingham Projects so now I have all of the stuff. I have been gathering tools since last December and everything is in place. Two weeks ago I spent several hours in Frost Hardwoods in San Diego (what a feast for exotic wood lovers). My first bow will be simple: maple lams, walnut riser and black glass.
But first, let's start with my garage. DesertDude will vouch for my being out-of-control; but, hey, you only live once...
Actually, my garage is the Spine-O-Meter world headquarters. It has been undergoing a make-over recently so let's have a look...
I tore out an old workbench that was not well designed and now have a place for power tools.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/PowerTools.jpg)
Next, I had to design and build a new workbench, got carried away...
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/NewBench.jpg)
Another bench that serves me well.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/OldBench.jpg)
Next, I need a hot box. Maybe I will graduate to heat strips someday, but for now this is made from 2x2 and some foam insulation I got at Lowe's.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/hotbox2.jpg)
Three 100 watt bulbs did not get above 128F so I put in 3-150 watts and even a little pancake fan and got up to 165F. The foam is only 1/2 inch thick but the lid and one side are doubled to use up all of the two 4x8 sheets. I put heat shields, made from soda cans, between the bulbs and lid because experiments showed that the insulation would de-form with the bulbs this close.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/hotbox3.jpg)
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Now I need a bow form. I am going to use C-clamps for this one instead of the air hose method. This will be more versatile and allow experimenting with different riser designs. I laminated two 3/4 pieces of 12 inch wide MDF. Next time I think I will use plywood - even though it is not truly 1.5 inches - because the MDF is HEAVY.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/lamform.jpg)
The template is made for half the bow and I will use a pattern router bit to get a good edge on the form and flip it for the other side.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/formtemplate.jpg)
The pattern has two holes to pin it to the form when it is flipped so symmetry can be maintained.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/form1.jpg)
Here is the form roughed out with my jigsaw.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/form2.jpg)
It has momentarily stopped raining so I am going to route the form outside. Stay tuned for the next episode.
We are having a freak rain here in San Diego the last two days. It has dropped about and inch. We have not had a drop since the end of February so it is welcome...unless you want to work outside on your bow making stuff.
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Dang - it just started raining again. I need to make a string jig so I guess I will do that.
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I'll stay tuned. :saywhat:
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I look forward to this build along. I don't post much, but I too have be collecting tools. I'll be watching an learning. While I'm at it, I'll trad you a Saxon Kadiak for that ugly yellow BMW in the background. Looks like it's just taking up valuable space.
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CLK,
Sorry, no trade. That machine gets me to work everyday - rain or shine - in So. Cal. it is mostly shine. I just turned 86K miles and it still runs great. My last BMW I put 100K miles on.
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Lookin good Kevin,how ya like the bandsaw?
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Cake... wish I was there to see all this come together. I know you are Way out of control.... Can't wait to shoot your bow. Hope to see ya sunday......
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I made some more progress today after overcoming a few difficulties. I had planned on using a hole saw to cut all of the holes for the clamps in my form. It clogged with sawdust and started burning. A reminder that MDF is evil on a lot of cutting tools. After trying a few things I settled on drilling holes at the corners of a square and using my jigsaw.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/form3.jpg)
After that I used contact cement to glue a 1/16 inch aluminum strip to the form.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/form4.jpg)
After sanding, Scotchbrite and wax the form is now ready.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/form5.jpg)
Next I set up to re-saw some maple for the limb cores. A bought a 1/2 inch, 3 TPI, carbide tipped blade for my Grizzly bandsaw and set it up similar to articles I have seen in woodworking mags.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/resaw1.jpg)
Kenny, I like the Grizzly. This re-saw set-up worked way better than I expected. I sawed a strip then ran the wide piece through my drum sander to get a clean edge and then sawed another strip.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/resaw2.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/resaw3.jpg)
I got nine of ten strips cut successfully. I may have to reject a few due to the knot you can see.
I plan on using three parallel, full length laminations in this bow. I am still trying to understand the use of tapers. I don't see many longbows with a thickness taper over the length. I have a recurve with a taper. Beside being able to adjust limb thickness easily by using reverse tapers can someone tell me if they taper the limb thickness.
Maybe more tomorrow after shooting in the morning and seeing Indiana Jones in the afternoon.
Kevin
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Way to sweet Cake......... I can't wait, I'll see you in the morning.....Mark
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Nice setup, keep going!
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Your garage is way to clean :eek:
Looking good so far, will be following along.
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Looks great! Let me know how that MDF works out. I'm planning on using it for my first form.
Bill
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I'd try tapering the limb .002" per running inch. I wouldn't use all parallels with that design. Chad
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I'm with Chad on this,.002 taper will lighten/limber up your tips and add a little strength to your fade area. JMHO
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One thing I notice about your shop...it's so clean!!! :thumbsup:
Looking forward to the rest of this thorough buildalong. Cheers, Matt
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Ahh, I see you are an engineer...that explains things ;) My brother is one of your kind ;) Keep it coming clean and precise! Matt
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I am all ears on the use of tapered limbs but I still am confused. If I taper the limb .002" per inch that will be over .040" difference in thickness from the fade to the ends. That seems like a lot to me. I have looked at a lot of longbows and have not seen one with that much taper.
I had hoped to glue my first one this past weekend but had a few difficulties - no point in rushing. I was having trouble getting the fades to cooperate but I think I figured out a better approach this evening. Maybe tomorrow I will have enough energy to work on them.
Sorry about my garage condition. Since it is the only place in the house that I have control over I am doing things my way.
Stay tuned.
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Cake, I've built some mild r-d longbows (kinda like the Great Northern Critter Gitters) and I ran a .006" taper. This made it smooth to draw and snappy too.I have noticed that on the hybrid bows there seems to be less taper and I think its because they're not as thick. On a 62" bow I used 2 lams of glass .05" and 4 lams of wood with a butt thickness of .085". I used an 18" riser also.
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The last 10" on a bow limb bend very little as most of the "strain" is near the fadeout. Putting tapers in the limbs lighten the tips and get them bending a little more. It also beefs up the fade out area as Kenny says where there is more strain. If you use all parallels then the limb will only work from midlimb to fadeout.
In a nut shell: Tapers add more beef where the limbs need it and take more material away where the limb doesn't need it making for a more efficient working limb. Chad
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Oh another thing. A straight longbow can use all parallels. The reflex in your design stiffens your tip ends of your limb considerably, therefore needs less material. .002 taper really isn't a lot of taper probally average for a hybrid longbow like yours. Good luck with your project. Chad
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Cupcake. .002 is good. I have used .003 as well and gotten decent results. I agree, with that form design, go for the tapered laminations.
Keep it up, looking good.
I have a question for you, and others. I normally use "the hose". When using the "clamp" technique... how many clamps are required ? I get really jumpy with spacing like yours appears to have.... and maybe for no good reason other than my inexperience. How much space between clamps is OK ?
ChuckC
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I took the advice of all here and made some new core lams with a .002" fade. I had bought two .001" tapers from Bingham Projects and put them together under the ones I ground and got just what I needed the first time. My bow is in the oven as I type and will be ready for cool-down in two hours.
I had trouble with the fades and had to make a new riser. Here is a bad fade.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/badfade.jpg)
I had made changes to my form: adding feet and small tabs to hold everything aligned on the form. I also cut about three inches from the bottom so it fit in the oven better. This also made the form much lighter; and, I got a nice flat sled on which to grind laminations. I now think the MDF is not a bad way to go for a form. Cutting the clamp holes was the worst part.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/firstfade.jpg)
Here are the tapers and the angled butt joint, followed by the glue-up.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/taperbutt.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/taperglue.jpg)
Next I worked on a new riser section to correct my fade problem.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/newhandle.jpg)
I did the last bit of sanding on the fades with 60 grit and a wood block. The belt or spindle sander is too aggressive for some things.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/fade1.jpg)
I got the fade right this time.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/fade2.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/goodfade.jpg)
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The previous post was all done over the last few days. Last night I did a dry run on everything and went to bed dreaming of things to come...
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/dryrun.jpg)
This morning I got everything laid out and ready for the glue-up.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/glueready.jpg)
I mixed up four onces of Smooth-On and it was just exactly the right amount for three lams and glass. (thanks KennyM) It took me about an hour and a quarter to get everything buttered and in the form. I used some six inch wide stretch wrap to cover the form and then the bow before clamping. This stuff seems like the perfect width for this operation.
Sorry that there are no pictures of the glue-up. My wife is out of town and my four teenage boys don't get up early when there is no school.
I clamped everything and checked it over, and over, and over, and over. Letting the bow sit in the form with clamps while the epoxy squeezes out a bit allowed me to go back and snug them several times before it went in the oven.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/inoven.jpg)
For ChuckC, the clamps in my form are about 3.75" apart. With a layer of rubber and an eighth inch aluminum strip on top of everything the clamping pressure seems pretty even.
It took about an hour for the oven to get up to temperature.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/roasting.jpg)
After a while the temperature climbed to 180F; I am regulating it by cracking the lid a little bit and it has held 164 for the last several hours. Next time I will try using a 100 watt bulb in place of one of the 150s. Stay tuned for more, maybe tonight.
Kevin
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Looking great! Your riser especially looks good. It's tough to get that right, but I think you did.
Mike
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Good lookin fades! Are ya gonna add a bit of handle to the belly? 2 pieces of glass thru the handle has gotta be good!
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Well, it is out of the oven, I ground the squeezed out epoxy off and it looks SWEEEET. It is really satisfying to see the first one off of the form.
Kenny, I will add more to the belly for a handle once I figure out what I want it to look like. I will try and get some photos up tomorrow after shooting.
Bear State Archers has a new range out at Lake Henshaw and it is sweet. Turkeys running around, up and down the oak wooded mountainside; what a great way to spend Sunday morning.
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Very nice looking build along.
Great pictures for us novice to follow the work.
MAYBE someday.....
DEATHMASTER
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Kevin,heres one I made that way,you can put whatever handle shape you like on em.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/100_1261.jpg)
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Kev, looks great...I can't wait to see it the morning..........Mark
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Man its looking good! I read the posts on here from some of the other bowyers about the use of tapers vs paralells and I have a few thoughts. I too have built a lot of hybrids with tapers but my fastest and best shooting ones have been with all paralell lams. I have found that for a LB to perform well there is an optimal spot in the limb where the bending needs to occur. A bow that bends more at the fades stores more energy and one that bends more towards the tip stores less but is more efficient at unloading more energy into the arrow. So in general paralell bows store more energy but may waste more on noise and vibration. A couple of things I have found that work well from talking with guys that know a lot more about this stuff than me are using tapers with a tip wedge to maintain stiff tips and ballance the bend between the fades but keep the tips from rolling over into a hill style braced profile. The other option that has worked well is to use all paralell lams and a width profile that tapers from the fades to a very narrow tip. The thought here is that your glass is the heaviest component in the limb. A deeper stack of wood with narrower strips of glass is lighter than the opposite and maybe faster and quieter. Try your next one with all paralells and use a faster width taper and compare it to the first one and see how they shoot and perform and let us know. You'll be surprised at how different your braced profiles may be from two bows from the same form. To me the fun part is experimenting to optimize performance and shootability of a given design. Bowyers, what are your thoughts?
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Kevin, Glade to see your on your way to building the ultimate Bow, LOL
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Wow
Bike catch my eye. :clapper:
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You came close to drilling the clamp holes. When you drilled the little holes to saw em, should of tried the hole saw again. the little holes give the sawdust someplace to go besides in the teeth of the saw. Try it, has worked on every material I have tried it on. First time was in a attic trying to go thru a 2X6. Kept catching and got mad and used a paddle bit to hog a little wood out. Was standing on the rafters and bout hit the floor, the hole saw went thru so easily. Take care. Swabby
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Swabby, good advice on the hole saw, I will try it.
Hera, the bike is way too much fun, goes fast. Your bows catch my eye. I hope to be as skilled as you one day. I refer to your build alongs all of the time to get ideas.
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Sorry for the delay, my bow came off of the form Saturday and I must say I am stoked. It came out great. Here are the photos of the blank.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/laminated1.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/laminated2.jpg)
I am also playing around with handle shapes before I commit myself. The one in the photo is pretty good but I have a LOT more scrap wood to experiment with, and I plan to do so.
Sunday, after a beautiful morning of shooting with DesertDude, M60gunner and a couple others I tapered the limbs.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/limbtaper.jpg)
I used my bandsaw and the bet sander. I now have a dull fiberglass only blade (the one that came with the Grizzly, and it was not very good). The glass sure wears out a sanding belt too. I bought some of the blue belts today to see how they last.
Next came the handle over-lays. There is a slight compound curve to the back of the riser that made getting the right profile tricky.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/handleparts.jpg)
I used the bandsaw (new blade), belt sander and then a scraper and block sanding to get it right. I also cut strips to glue to the front of the riser. The woods are maple and black walnut.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/handle1.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/handle2.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/handle3.jpg)
Then, I cut some pieces for the tip over-lays. Maple, black phenolic and walnut.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/tipoverlay.jpg)
I plan on gluing these with Smooth-On tomorrow evening and then baking in the hot box the next evening for about four hours. I sanded the glass for the glue with 100 grit and it does not have as much "tooth" as the the raw glass from Bingham. Should I use 60 grit? I don't think I have anything more coarse except 36 grit belts for my drum sander.
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Cupcake,
I wouldn't recommend putting the bow back in the oven. Smoothon will start to "weaken" when it gets close to the temperature that it was cured at and you run the risk of delaming your bow. I use Kwick-it superglue for my overlays. Got to work quick (about 10 seconds to set)but I prefer it to smooth for the time involved. If you are set on smoothon, just put a lamp or light bulb next to the tips to provide heat to cure the epoxy
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Cupcake,
You can always unscrew a few lightbulbs to keep the heat lower as well. I do this when attatching the belly side of my riser and overlays... same as what you're doing. For my tips I use a CA type glue with an accelerator.
Happy hunting,
Jason
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Kevin,
Where you at on this project?
Norb
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Where have I seen this before?? LOL. Great job.
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Norb,
Glad you asked, I was just getting photos together to post. Today was one of my off Fridays so I got a LOT done - it is almost a bow.
Here is a shot of the dry run for the handle gluing.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/handledryrun.jpg)
After it came out of the oven (at a reduced temp) here is the whole bow, handle detail and tip overlay.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/overlaydone.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/rawhandle.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/tipraw.jpg)
That was all done Wednesday evening. Today the first thing I did was cut the string knocks. Starting with the location.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/string1.jpg)
Then I marked the sides at a 45 degree angle.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/string2.jpg)
I used my Dremel with a rotary file to start the side grooves, it sure helps eat through the phenolic but can be hard to control at high speed.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/string3.jpg)
Here is the string in the knock. After this photo I spent more time refining the grooves before bracing.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/string4.jpg)
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And then, I braced it for the first time. Talk about an exciting moment - stringing your first bow.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/firstbrace.jpg)
After this I put it on the tiller tree (more details of that later) and measured it a 57# at 28 inches. That was with the limbs still rough ground and totally square on the edges. I want to hit 50#. After un-stringing I noticed a problem, the front overlay had pulled away from the limb about a half-inch on both top and bottom. No panic but a close call.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/split.jpg)
To fix it I cut each overlay back two inches using a razor saw and being careful not to cut the glass. When I carefully cut and pried the piece off I was relieved to find that the epoxy joint was sound at the new overlay termination.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/splitfix.jpg)
I immediately feathered the overlays. I suspect that since the overlays were very long, not tapered yet, and in the working portion of the fade they were just too stiff to bend with the limb.
After this incident was cleared up I marked out the handle shape and cut it.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/handleoutline.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/handlecut.jpg)
Next I cut the sight window and left a lot of meat above the grip to work on the shelf radius later. I have not decided yet whether to cut the window 3/16 or 1/8 inch from center.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/windowrough.jpg)
Since these photos I have done a lot of work shaping the handle - I am going slow so I don't go past the point I want.
I have also trapped the limbs very slightly in an effort to reduce weight. I have it down to 52#. I want to draw it all the way to my 30 inch span so this is still a bit higher than I want. If I can't get it lower DesertDude is going to try to take it away from me, so wish me luck.
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WOW! I have always been interested in learning to build a bow, but was always skeptical that I could pull it off. I'm no longer skeptical, there is no way I can do that. I guess I'll keep the bowyers in business. Great thread.
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looking great! coming along nicely :thumbsup: :clapper:
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Hey Kevin,if you think stringin er up was a rush,wait til you shoot it!! Or better yet take some game.
Got the next one planned yet? LOL
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wow!! thats looking real nice :clapper:
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I got a good deal of detail work done yesterday and today. Yesterday I strung it and shot it. It seems to smoke a 500 grain arrow pretty good. However, O.L. does not have to worry...yet. I have it pulling 51 pounds at 28 inches and am stopping there.
I spent a lot of time on the riser tweaking the grip and sight window.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/riser.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/window6.jpg)
The window is cut 5/32 from center. The grip is still a bit large but I am going slow here. Next I worked on the string nocks a bit and think I am satisfied with them.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/tip1.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/tip2.jpg)
Here is a picture of the profile.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/profile.jpg)
And the strung bow.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/strung.jpg)
This week I hope to spend evenings sanding and plan on using a Massey (epoxy) finish. Any suggestions are always welcome.
Kevin
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Awesome skills Kevin.
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I'll give you call with my specs. Can I have it in a week? Why not??
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Very nice work.
I like the quality of the pictures for the whole build along. NICE JOB!!!!!
DEATHMASTER
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Very Very nice and thanx for all the pics, you are really skilled and make it look easy.
Thanx
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i agree i was going to try this some day but there is no way i can do it.
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Happy Father's Day - I finished my bow today. I decided on using the Massey finish, thinned Devcon epoxy. I got the bow all sanded, 400 on the wood and 600 on the glass. Here is all of the stuff for spraying the finish. I use the Zerostat to neutralize static on the bow to keep down dust.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/finishstuff.jpg)
I have a couple of Paasche Model H airbrushes and am using a large, no. 5 tip. I have a pretty fair amount of experience spraying a lot of different stuff for the last 30 years but I must say I had a bit of a hard time with this finish. I started out hanging the bow vertically in my "poor man's" spray booth.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/spraybooth.jpg)
The first coat I did not thin enough and had a few problems with runs. Not a big deal, sanding with 320 & 400 wet got it smooth. Next I decided to hang it horizontally. I had a better mix this time but had fish eyes; I must not have cleaned the bow well enough after sanding. I wiped it down with denatured alcohol. More wet sanding. Than I thought maybe if I switched thinner from acetone to denatured alcohol I might get better results because of slower evaporation. Wrong, I got a lot of orange peel and switched back to acetone after shooting the belly limbs. More sanding.
Then I used acetone to wipe the bow before the fourth coat. This time I got a bit of sand scratch swelling. Anyway, wet sanding with 400, 600 and 800 after this coat I was happy and did not put on another coat. After a bit of steel wool (0000) and paste wax it looks pretty sweet.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/finish1.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/finish2.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/finish3.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/finish4.jpg)
It seems to be a pretty good shooter. The brace height wants to be up about 8 inches. This seems high for a longbow but it is pretty heavy R/D. Here she is at full draw.
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/fulldraw1.jpg)
(http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/cupcake1000/Bow%20Build%20Along/fulldraw2.jpg)
It is 51lbs. @ 28 and weighs in at 1lb., 12oz. I had a blast building this bow and am now hooked. I am starting to think about the next one; after the fence gets painted and...
Thanks for watching and I hope you enjoyed it.
Kevin
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Kevin,
To heck with the fence!!
I've got a form almost identical to that bow and it likes bout 7 3/4" brace also,looks kinda high but shoots really well! Thats a real looker for # 1,can't wait to see what you come up with next time!! :thumbsup:
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Congratulations Kevin,
I guess I know what you'll be shooting at the next few (till #2 is built) shoots! I can't wait to see it in person, looks real nice!
Happy Father's Day!!
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Kevin
nice bow I like it :clapper:
just for some info my martin vision seems to like the brace height to be around 7 3/4 which martin suggest to be about the max.
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Nice looking bow Kevin. I look forward to shooting it when I get back from Wi. fishing trip.
Now about those limbs for my Warf project.......
Happy fathers Day, Tom
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Beautiful Job. Very nice bow
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It's a beauty Kevin look forward to shooting it, and placing a order for one with carbon limbs. :thumbsup:
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Well done "GrassHopper"
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Very Nice. Excellent craftsmanship.
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Kevin,
WOW! You did a great job. You could have saved a bunch of work on this one if you would have just given it to me when you had it at 57#! ... I know Mark and Larry are in front of my order so I'll have to settle for serial #4. See you at the next shoot.
Kevin Gross
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Very very nice!! Hap