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Main Boards => Photography/Video Q&A Board => Topic started by: Missing Impossible on January 24, 2010, 07:10:00 PM
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Thanks for all the interest in the homebrew build along. I decided to use a Sony P32 camera for a few reasons. First, there is no direct soldering to the camera board. Second, this is a great middle of the road camera that takes nice photos but can also be converted to IR. External batteries can also be added to the P32 for increased field life.
The control board selected for this build is a Yeticam. I chose this board because of its versatility. http://www.yeticam.com/Manuals/YetiCamBoardVer13Manual14.pdf This same board can control a slave flash which will fire simultaneously with the camera.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0606.jpg)
We’ll start the build along with a list of tools.
Voltmeter
Fine tip screwdrivers
Black tape
Needle nose pliers
Hemostats
1” forstner bit
Fine tip sharpie marker
Plumbers Goop
X-acto knife set
Dial calipers
.032 dia rosin core solder
Soldering station with fine tip
Shrink tubing
Acetone
1” hole punch
Drill bit assortment.
¼” shaft shaper bit. (not pictured)
I do all my drilling on a small drill press but one isn’t necessary. A dremel tool with various bits is also very handy for these builds.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0607.jpg)
Here’s a parts list for our bomebrew.
1. Sony P32 camera
2. Pelican 1040 case
these can be purchased camouflaged but we’re going to do our own 3-D camo.
3. Velcro
4. Yeticam board with horizontal back mount controls http://www.yeticam.com/Control_Board_Overview.htm
I’ll explain more about the board specs later
5. 5 wire servo assembly
3 wires run the camera and the extra two will be used for external power.
6. HPWA fresnel lens
These are sold here http://www.snapshotsniper.com/HomeBrewProducts.htm
7. Flash enhancer
8. 11/4” round piece glass
9. Hags House shutter assembly
These are sold here http://www.bfoutdoors.com/cases.html
10. Appropriate size standoffs with screws and nuts.
Yeticam will size them to your build.
11. Various thicknesses foam for flash gasket.
It’s cheap so buy a couple of each thickness.
12. Rope seal for the Pelican 1040 case.
Found here http://www.yeticam.com/HomeBrew_Parts.htm
13. 9 volt switched battery holder from Yeticam.
Plugs right into board
14. ½” OD pipe or ½” plastic water line.
This is what our python lock goes thru.
15. Python lock
You’ll need to go to the vendor specified to get some of these items but most items are available at all of the vendors.
Here are the major suppliers of homebrew supplies
http://www.whitetailsupply.com/products.html
http://www.bfoutdoors.com/cases.html
http://www.snapshotsniper.com/
http://www.yeticam.com/HomeBrew_Parts.htm
Some of these companies offer a kit which comes with everything (minus the camera) you’ll need including a pre-drilled case. The benefit of building one from scratch is so you will be able to understand how to lay everything out so you can make cameras which will accommodate the extras you want your cameras to have.
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Oh man...I can hardly wait to see this one develop..
Sorry no pun intended.
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I've got a bid in on **** for a Sony P32 camera. I guess I could check the local pawn shops as a source for cheap used cameras of the right make and model?
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Originally posted by BobinTN:
I've got a bid in on **** for a Sony P32 camera. I guess I could check the local pawn shops as a source for cheap used cameras of the right make and model?
So glad you mentioned that. Pawn shops are a great place to find cameras.
I'd like to add on something. Don't get scared of all the components that Mike has listed. Mike loves to build his from scratch. Not to mention he's very good at it. But if that isn't your forte, then a kit will come already drilled and ready to assemble. Just didn't want people to see the tool/parts list and run away. :scared:
Back to you brother!
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@ BobinTN, I've found that local pawn shops usually only buy 8Mp and up cameras. I took them a list with the ones I was looking for. Craigslist is also another good place to look.
Keep in mind that about 80% of this build will be the same for any hackable camera you use. For any camera chosen you'll need to layout your design, then drill lens, flash, and fresnel holes. Here's a partial list of useable cameras courtesy of Tony Bass.
http://www.sonichell.com/files/CamSpecs.pdf
Another good camera not listed is the Olympus D380.
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Sounds Interesting!
Hope a "southern boy" can keep up!
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Here's another link for some good camera and build information.
http://www.chasingame.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=39
I'm lining up the camera hack for tomorrow.
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I see pluming goo, and on the sheet before I saw Marine goo, where do you find your "goo" and what other types of glue or goo will work if we cannot find that brand?
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Perfect timing, I just got a Sony P52 so I may have do a little research on the wiring but I am in! Ordering parts tomorrow, good idea guys!
Terry
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@ Hill Hunter, either goop will work. You can also use any brand silicone adhesive. Most of the homebrew sites sell a double sided 3M tape that works great for sealing the glass and flash enhancer. I usually order this tape, extra foam and extra glass each time I get a board because it's cheap and comes in handy.
@ Bowshot, here's some info on the P52. http://www.mdwfp.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=55096
Same hack but you'll need to make a snorkle for the lens as it extends.
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I've been waiting for this one too.
I'll be lurking, taking notes, and planning.
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Mike,
If your at your house, call me.
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OK,
I have a Sony P32 camera for $45 after postage.
And I bought all supplies from yeticam for $94 after postage.
I am in this thing for about $140.
I am ready to learn.
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Thanks Mike,just got 2 more of them.
Terry
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Iv got a couple in the plans over this side of the pond. :thumbsup:
Thanks Guys
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Talked to Mike last night and he was getting the photos and verbage together for the first phase. Once again, be patient, I threw him into this without any notice. He'll probably post tonight with the first phase. Mike is a perfectionist. And he will not post until he knows everything is right.
One thing all need to keep in mind while we wait. There are so many variables to building these cameras. Mike is going to show one way and explain others. So try to read up on some of the limks he listed so you can better understand what he's doing and maybe answer some of your own questions.
We talked last night and he's going to show some good additions to a regular build. Trust me, this is going to be good. When he does something, he goes all out.
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Yes he does a great job.And you will enjoy using your own cameras. :D
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Any other camera recommendations? What are some of the specifics we should look for in a camera?
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RUSTY1-Go to some of the above links and look at the cameras that are listed. These are the tried and true cameras. The experts in this arena are hacking several others that are not listed. You can surf some of the forums to see whats new out there.
Sony S600
P32
P41
S40
W35
W55
Olympis D380
Pentax E50
Just to name the most popular. I've also seen the E70(10mega pixels) and I believe the Sony 120(12 mega pixel).
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Thanks Mike!
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Ok, here are a few pics showing a completed build. The reason the Yeti board was ordered specifying back mount controls is because we’re going to point the camera and the motion sensor (pir) out the back (bottom) of the case. If you look at the latch in the next photo you’ll see that the lid of the case will be against the tree. The pipe we’re putting thru the case will allow you to lock the trail cam to the tree using a python lock. Gonna be pretty hard for someone to open the trail cam to get at the innards with that lid locked against the tree! The other benefit of this is that the camera screen will be right there when you open the lid, ready to review pics. When you go thru the bottom of the case, you use the same set up no matter what size case you use. A pelican 1060 is deeper than our 1040 but the pir will always be the same distance to the bottom of either case.
This is important because the pir sensor needs to be a precise distance to the fresnel lens. You go to a deeper case with a pir on the front of the board and you need to figure the correct standoff sizes to get that fresnel to pir distance correct.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0621.jpg)
The python lock:
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0632.jpg)
If you do not need to lock your cams you could just omit the pipe thru design and add U bolts for tying to tree.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0631.jpg)
The horizontal option is because the pir has to be oriented so that the two internal sensors on the face pick up motion left to right or left to right. If we were to take our board and mount it vertically, it would only trigger a photo if something moves up or down to cross the two sensors. Here’s a link that describes this better than I can.
http://www.glolab.com/pirparts/infrared.html
There are pir sensors available now which allow either vertical or horizontal placement of the board. The simple sniper from snap shot sniper has this.
Here’s a comparison of some different cases.
From left to right: pelican 1020, pelican 1040, pelican 1060, and a Moultrie gamespy 200
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0608.jpg)
[IMG]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0611.jpg[/IMG
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(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0611.jpg)
This next photo shows a P32 in a pelican 1040 with a simple sniper board below the camera and our yeti board lying on the lid for comparison. (drilled the pipe hole crooked)
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0626.jpg)
We’re going to lay out our camera just like this except we’re using the yeti in place of the ss.
Here are couple photos showing layout options for different cases. The first pic is a P32 in a pelican 1020 case. Notice that there is not enough room for our yeti board with it’s 9v power.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0624.jpg)
Now here’s a comparison between a P32 and an old Olympus D380.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0625.jpg)
Now here’s a D380 in a 1020 case with a simple sniper board. This is a working trail cam.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0617.jpg)
The next photo shows a P32 in a pelican 1060 case with pipe thru, yeti with 9V holder and places to add the external batteries. On the lid on the left is a two D battery holder and above the camera is a two C battery holder. This type of externals would probable last the season.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/build%20along/IMG_0619.jpg)
I specified the five wire servo for the build because it’s only a few dollars more than a three wire servo. The five wire is only needed if you plan on using external batteries to increase field life. If you do another build such as the layout above in a 1060, you’ll already have the hack completed for the externals. Heck, even adding a two aa holder to our 1040 build will double the battery life of the P32.
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I'm going to go ahead and post the links for the camera hack. I do not have access to a macro photography studio so these are a much better reference. The first link shows only the camera hack using the hags house shutter assembly. This is the one we'll follow. The second link shows both the hack for running the cam and the external battery hack. We'll only refer to this link for the battery hack.
Please print these off, read, and keep handy as I'll be following these for our build. My main objective during the hack is to bring up things I have encountered that may pose a problem.
For anyone who is actually doing the build with me, please contact me any time with questions or concerns since I kind of got you into this. I'll do all I can to help. Plus you may encounter something that we can all learn from.
http://www.hagshouse.com/Instructions_Mods/Word%20Docs/Sony%20DSC-P32%20Mods1%20Rev%20A.pdf
http://www.bfoutdoors.com/PDFS/Sony%20P32%20modification%20with%20external%20power%20hack.pdf
I've set aside this weekend to hopefully complete the homebrew and document for posting.
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Just as long as your not drinking the homebrew instead building one. :biglaugh:
Looking good brother, Looking good.
Beers on me when your done. or maybe another wine tasting event.
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Got my sony p32 in the mail today. It looks good. Took a picture just to make sure it works.
Now I am waiting on the rest of the supplies.
I am excited to proceed with this project.
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Just an update. Mike has delayed this for a couple days to allow others to get their supplies together. It will full boar this weekend so get ready. The camera hack is next. Hope everyones been studying the links.
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FYI python locks can be bought keyed alike. If your going to be getting more than one, remember to ask for this.
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You'll want to buy 512mb memory stick pro cards max for your P32 going in this build, others will work, they'll just be a little slower on the trigger.
The build will be tomorrow.
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It is a funny shaped memory stick. I guess the modern shaped memory sticks will not work?
I bought 2 Sony 512mbs memory sticks for $26.
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I've been anticipating this thread ever since it popped up on pow-wow. Might help to repost the basic prices for materials. Thanks for putting this thread together!
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I’m going to do this real time instead of all at once at the end. Before we hack the camera I’m going to do some case preparation. Your pelican case comes with a removable bladder which we will remove. You can use the lip of the bladder to seal the lid if you did not buy the rope seal. I’ve tried the bladder lip and found that it takes a set after a while and can interfere with removing the camera. Here’s the bladder and a bladder lip.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0633.jpg)
I installed the rope seal by first fitting the seal in the groove then cutting to correct length. I then place goop in each corner and at each midpoint along edges, making sure that extra goop is placed at the bottom middle where the two ends meet. Place rope seal in groove then close case for a few minutes to let the goop set. Here’s the rope seal installed in our case.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0634.jpg)
The next step is to install the pipe thru the case for our python lock. Here’s a pic of the purge valve, this cap can be pried out and will give us the location to drill for our pipe.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0635.jpg)
Before you drill out the purge hole, transfer the measurements of the center of the hole to the other side. I use ½” OD stainless tubing. Plastic water line can be used just verify drill bit size for a snug fit.
Here’s the pipe in place and gooped inside and out. Don’t go overboard with the goop as it will get everywhere. We’re going to do a dunk test on our case later and will see if there are any areas not watertight.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0637.jpg)
The next thing I’m going to add is a little shelf for the camera to sit on. This isn’t necessary but it comes in handy as you’ll have a solid reference for where your camera will be. As an example, you can do this build with the P32 on the bottom of the case, however the bottom of the case widens as you approach the lid so if you drill your holes then add the foam flash gasket, the foam will raise your camera moving the lens and flash towards the bottom of your holes. Here’s the shelf.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0639.jpg)
And here’s the shelf gooped into the case.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0640.jpg)
Off to the bench now.
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I’m going to go ahead and drill the holes for the bolts that will hold our board to the case. Here’s a template for the yeti board. When printing the template make sure that the printer does not scale the page. Double check too see that the template is true size before marking or drilling.
http://www.yeticam.com/YetiCamBoardVer13Template.pdf
This is a mounting diagram for the board.
http://www.yeticam.com/Manuals/Board%20Mounting%20Diagram.pdf
I’ve taped the template to the case in preparation to drill.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0642.jpg)
I drill a small hole where the center if the pir sensor is since the forstner bit starts with a small tip. You’ll need to chamfer the outside of the case for the bolt heads to fit flush. Here I’ve installed two of the bolts that will hold our board. You can see the chamfered holes and the pilot hole for the pir.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0644.jpg)
Here’s a shot of part of my workbench during this build.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0643.jpg)
We’ll start the hack using this set of instructions as you have to take out the main board to solder in the wires for external power.
http://www.bfoutdoors.com/PDFS/Sony%20P32%20modification%20with%20external%20power%20hack.pdf
The very first step to the hack is to turn on camera then remove the batteries. This will keep the shutter cover open then when inside the camera we’ll disconnect the wire for the shutter cover motor.
After the four screws have been removed from the camera, carefully separate the two camera halves paying special attention to keep the bottom halves of the camera as close together as possible. The next photo shows why. There is a ribbon cable that can tear very easy if pulled on or twisted. The camera is clam-shelled open with the bottoms next to each other.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0647.jpg)
The shutter motor connector is unplugged in this photo.
When referring to the hack link, you’ll see two ribbon cables that need to be disconnected to separate the camera. These next two photos are close ups of those.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0648.jpg)
This photo shows the small black tab that must be opened to disconnect the ribbon cable that runs to the back half of the camera. Here, the tab has been lifted and the ribbon cable has been removed allowing you to remove the back of the camera.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0652.jpg)
This photo shows the second ribbon cable disconnected, allowing the main board to be removed from the camera. There is no locking device for this cable but care must be taken during removal as it will tear easily. There are ears on each side of the cable that I gently pry on with a small screwdriver.
After following the hack link and lifting the latches, you’ll have the front of the camera separated from the main board with the battery compartment exposed. Here’s a pic of that.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0653.jpg)
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Before we start soldering, we’re going to go back to the case. Having the face of the camera separated will make it easy to mark our holes that will need to be drilled for our lens and flash. Our P32 will not drop in to our case without a little grinding. Here, I’ve taken the face, set it on our shelf, and marked our case for grinding.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0654.jpg)
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0656.jpg)
I used a dremel to open up the inside of the case until the camera fits snugly. Here’s pics of the bottom and lid of the case after grinding.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0657.jpg)
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0659.jpg)
You do not need a dremel to do this. The first couple I did I used a rotary rasp bit with a drill clamped to the workbench.
Here’s the camera face fitting nicely in the case.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0660.jpg)
Now we can mark the lens and flash holes with no measuring. The marks don’t look centered in the photo but they are.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0664.jpg)
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On to the camera hack. Take a look at this picture and you’ll see that one side of the 5 wire servo has three thin wires and 2 fat whereas the other side has 5 fat wires.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0666.jpg)
The side with the thin wires will connect to the camera. It’s a lot easier to tuck those thin wires inside of the camera case than all those fat ones.
I first ran the wires per previous link for the externals and it was very easy. You’ll have to look at that link very carefully to get an idea of how much wire you’ll need to cut off of the 5 wire servo. I then went to this link http://www.hagshouse.com/Instructions_Mods/Word%20Docs/Sony%20DSC-P32%20Mods1%20Rev%20A.pdf for information on the actual camera hack using the hags house shutter assembly. The reason we used this item can be seen in the picture below.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0675.jpg)
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0677.jpg)
The contacts beside the penny are what will enable use to hack the cam, pretty darn small, huh?
The solder points on the shutter assembly from hags house (shown on the left) are much larger than the other two options shown. Following the hack link above, you’ll see that only three contacts are used. The fourth flat wire is used as a spacer to align the assembly correctly. The only thing I can add to the above directions is that I find it easiest to hold the shutter assembly from the back as shown and take a small screwdriver to start the ribbon cable under the shutter assembly. In this photo, I’m doing just that except that the bronze ribbon cable has already been inserted.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0668.jpg)
Notice how you can see the flat wires in the shutter assembly lining up with the wires in the bronze ribbon cable.
This next photo shows the shutter assembly installed and taped down ready for soldering. The wires taped down horizontally are for the externals.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0669.jpg)
Per the directions, I tinned the wires and contact pads. Here, notice the pad of solder ready to be joined with the wires.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0671.jpg)
I wired red for power, black for common, and white for shutter. I finished following the hack directions then reassembled the camera. Here is the servo coming out the finished camera.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0672.jpg)
To test your hack, connect the other side of the 5 wire servo then tape off the corresponding wires for + and – for externals. Touch power and common together and camera should turn on. Touching the shutter and common together while the camera is on will take a picture. Our camera works as it should both turning on and taking photos.
Next, I soldered in a 2 c battery holder and then removed the batteries from the camera. This next photo shows the camera running on the two external c batteries. Notice the open battery door on the camera. Success!!!!
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0674.jpg)
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With our camera successfully hacked for externals and to be operated by our board, it’s time to continue with the case. Clear cases make it easy to locate your holes for your fresnel, flash, and lens. With a painted case, you’ll need to do some good measuring. One option for accurate hole placement if your shooting thru the lid is to use a laser pointer plumb with your bench. After laying out your components in your case (this is where a camera ledge comes in handy), simply center your laser over your target such as the center of your pir, then close the case and mark the location of the laser. Repeat for the flash hole and the lens hole. Here’s a photo using the forstner bit to drill out the pir hole that we earlier located with the template.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0678.jpg)
And here’s an action photo of the forstner in action.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0679.jpg)
I used the marks we made earlier using the front face of the camera to drill out holes for the lens and flash. Now we have completed drilling the case.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0681.jpg)
We need to eliminate part of the external ridge that crosses the case so that our HPWA fresnel assembly fits flush with the exterior of the case. I first friction fitted the HPWA in the pir hole then marked what part of the ridge needed ground off. Here’s the case after grinding the ridge flush with the exterior of the case.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0684.jpg)
Here’s a view of the HPWA fitting flush.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0686.jpg)
This picture is of the case thus far along in the build. The next step is finishing up internal details.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0687.jpg)
You can go ahead and seal the board bolt heads with goop now. Also, proper placement of the HPWA requires that it be installed with the unmarked portion of the lens placed at the top as in photo.
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We’re to the point where we’re wrapping up this build. First we take a thin piece of foam and mark it where our flash and lens holes are. We then take a 1” sharpened pipe or other object and punch the holes.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0694.jpg)
We goop up the HPWA and install it. The glass for the lens goes in next. If you like you can countersink the glass with a 11/4” forstner bit. If you are going to use glass for both the lens and the flash you need to black out the edges of the glass so that the flash doesn’t bleed over to the lens glass. This will leave you with phantom blob of light in your photos. We don’t have to worry about that as we’re using a flash enhancer which is very thin. Here’s the case with the HPWA fresnel, the lens glass, and the flash enhancer installed. The flash enhancer has ridges on one side and that side will face the camera.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0688.jpg)
The directions for the yeti board installation calls for nuts to be run down the bolts coming thru the case. We’ll do this next. I came up with a standoff length of 0.435”. Yeti sent me 1”. I used a micrometer to figure this knowing that the distance from our pir to the HPWA lens needed to be 0.90”. I had to use the dremel with a plastic cutoff blade to get the 0.435”. The next photo shows the connection of the servo to the board. This as well as connecting the 9v power supply needs to be done prior to mounting the board as the screw connector will be inaccessible when the board is installed as it’s on the same side as the pir.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0690.jpg)
The 9v battery holder will be held in place below the board with Velcro. This next photo shows the application of the Velcro. The 9v battery holder has an on-off switch which controls the power to the board. When you go to check your camera, you’ll turn off this switch as soon as you open the homebrew so as not to trigger the camera.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0691.jpg)
Here is the final resting place for our boards power.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0692.jpg)
We now take our foam and stick it over the glass and flash enhancer. This helps keep our camera in place and keeps stray light from the flash out of our pictures.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0695.jpg)
Next we take a piece of foam and place it on the lid behind our camera to keep our lens and flash as forward as possible.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0697.jpg)
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Here’s the end result front and back.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0698.jpg)
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/IMG_0700.jpg)
You’ll need to remove the board and camera and perform a leak test on the case. Just submerge the case for a few hours to be sure there are no leaks. Once your sure your ok you can reassemble your homebrew.
We’ll take on the 3D camo tomorrow. I hope you enjoyed the build along.
Mike
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Great job mike :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
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Those cameras are the best i have ever used.You wont be sorry to build some .Give it a try. :D
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Awesome job Mike, Im slowly getting all the pieces together for mine.
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Here are some settings for the P32 that will maximize its use as a trail cam.
Date/time…on
Red eye reduction…off
AF illuminator…off
Power save…off
Beep…off
Focus set to infinity
ISO is forced to 400
Pic quality is set to fine
Flash level is set at high
Leave the camera on program setting
Turn screen off
This link has a drilling template for the P32:
http://realdealhuntingchat.invisionzone.com/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=2612
If you end up with more than a couple homebrews (it’s addictive) an 8 bank aa battery charger will come in real handy. Rechargeable batteries make sense when you have 8-12 cameras out during the year.
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:clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
Thanks a million bud!
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Awesome! I am looking forward to tackling this project soon. Mike, thanks for sharing this with all of us.
Merf
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Thanks, as soon as I get off the road I am looking forward to giving it a try.
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Waiting on my parts. And I am on it.
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ttt
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Here’s a price list for this build
Sony P32 $23.00
Pelican 1040 case used $ 9.00
Control board $39.50
9V battery switch $ 2.25
1 piece 11/4” glass $ 2.00
Flash enhancer $ 3.50
5 wire servo $ 7.50
Rope seal $ 3.00
Standoffs, screws, and nuts $ 2.00
HPWA lens $ 5.00
Shutter assembly $ 1.00
Shipping $20.00
Total $117.75
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The camera is at the farm now. I'll give it a week then post some photos from our unit. We'll cover the 3D camo when it come in from the woods.
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Ok all, here is my first attempt at a Homebru, first I would like to thank Missing Impossible for the guidance, I just put my cam out today and hopefully will also have some pictures to post later, as for the build all went smooth, there were a few lessions learned I will apply to future builds such as watch the chuck on the dremel,that is what the nicks on the case are from.
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv98/drenfroe1/Homebru1.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv98/drenfroe1/Homebru2.jpg)
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Great job! Clean build!
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CONGRATS!!!! You did an excellent job. Can't wait to see some pics.
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Ok, here are the first pics, I was talking with Missing on PM yesterday and one of his first questions was "did you change the camera settings", well I was in a hurry and the answer was no, thought I would post the pics anyway, maybe someone else will not make the same mistake, I will get the cam tomorrow and make changes.
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv98/drenfroe1/DSC00020.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv98/drenfroe1/DSC00021.jpg)
(http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv98/drenfroe1/DSC00022.jpg)
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Yes, some adjustments are in order. But look man, you made your own camera! Now that you did it, was it really that hard?
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No actually it was much easier than I expected, and not the last
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Awesome job on the build David :thumbsup:
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Hey, I finished my camera. I had some mistakes but it is working.
I had some trouble because I had my power and common wires confused.
I will try to post some pictures.
Thanks Doug. for giving me the courage to try it.
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Lets see them Bob. :thumbsup:
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Below are pictures of the camera. Note on the picture of the outside is my biggest mistake. I ordered the standard fresnel instead of the HPWA (High Performance Wide Angle) fresnel. As I understand it, this will limit the PIR (Passive Infra-Red) sensor's ability to catch objects moving into frame sooner.
I am going to hang this game camera with my only other one I have in the woods right now. It is a 2 year old WildView, model is cheapest made at the time(perhaps .3 mega-pixel). I bought it at Wally world for less than $100. It has performed for me just fine (only wish is it recorded date and time on pictures). I will post back a side-by-side comparison. At least as well as I can do.
I am a notoriously cheap character and am just curious about a comparison.
(http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/44924/2432224350102155225S500x500Q85.jpg) (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2432224350102155225jyAEYe)
(http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/44414/2091488220102155225S500x500Q85.jpg) (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2091488220102155225huHYdM)
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Nice build, are you hooked? I think I may be, I made the same mistake with the wires on mine, good luck on the pics and congrads.
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We have some quick learners around here! Nice build! I tried the settings for the P32 that I posted and got alot of noise in night photos so I set the camera up to auto and night photos came out great. That fresnel lense will be fine over bait.
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lOOKING GOOD FELLOWS,LOOKING GOOD!!!
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Have'nt been able to compare cameras yet. I have been having some issues with batteries on the home brew. The first time out the 9V running the IPR went out after about a day (maybe 10 pictures). I replaced it with a fresh one and left it out for about 2 weeks. It lasted for 96 pictures (maybe 7 days). How much battery life should I get from the 9V?
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Ok Finally i have my first TrailCam up and running.
Now can't take any credit here like the talented guys above as all pretty much did was assemble it.
I used a yeti cam kit for this one.
I decided on that so that i could get a good idea of how everything goes together.
Im pretty confident i can do several others types now from scratch (except the camera hack that is)
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/tradtusker/IMG_1579.jpg)
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/tradtusker/IMG_1580.jpg)
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/tradtusker/IMG_1582.jpg)
its a lot of fun and could turn into quite an expensive hobby :bigsmyl:
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Looks great! That stereo jack makes for a clean build. Post up some pics!
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very Clean build with the Stereo Jack, defiantly the way to go for me. Love that i can just unplug it as use the camera as normal.
been testing it out a bit very good photo's unfortunately only in my garden no deer here any much else for that matter.
Going to try some night shots tonight.
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Looks like a great build. Is the end product better than some of the cams that are on the market for around the same price as the build? Seems some very affordable units have come out since build started.
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Andy I just checked this post after some time now. Excellent build!!!!! Looks great. I'm working on several my self right now. M
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Originally posted by BobinTN:
Have'nt been able to compare cameras yet. I have been having some issues with batteries on the home brew. The first time out the 9V running the IPR went out after about a day (maybe 10 pictures). I replaced it with a fresh one and left it out for about 2 weeks. It lasted for 96 pictures (maybe 7 days). How much battery life should I get from the 9V?
OK, The 9V should last a long time. Some cameras it will last up to a year. How about posting a pic of the inside of your build. Sounds like your battery could be touching something thats shorting it out. What camera are you using?
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Well this thread got my interest up so I have a new hobby now. ;) I just finished my first two cams. One p-32 like in the build along and one s600.I really like them and just hacked a DXG for a video cam next.I am making the first one a day only cam but plan on build another one as an IR camera next.Thanks for getting this habit started. :knothead:
(http://funhunts.homestead.com/firstbuild2.jpg)
(http://funhunts.homestead.com/firstbuilds.jpg)
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O.K., now, how bout the how-to on camoing the case. Thanks for all the info.,this is great!
Charlie
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Boy Jim, those look great!!! Your like me, I like the Simple Sniper boards cause of the room in the 1020 cases.
ARCHER2- To answer your quwstion, it's liquid nail. Just smear it around on the case and try to make it look like bark. Then paint. I use this method cause deer don't know the difference. NOW, if you want the real deal, missing impossible can show you his latest build. You make a mold out of silicon rubber and place it on an actual tree. After about 24 hours when it's dry you remove it. Now take your liquid nail and spread it out in the mold. When it almost dry but still pliable, remove it from the mold., You can place it on your cam and paint. These are as real as it gets.
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Hey Jim, just got done with an IR cam and it turned out great. Used a slave flash with a Sony W55 cam. All enclosed in a 1060 case. I'll post some pics when I get back from vacation. That IR slave flash blows away any commercial IR flash. I'm getting about 70 feet flash at night with an IR!
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Yeah the little boards let you use smaller cases.I am building the DXG in a 1020 as well with a BF board and will have enough room for 8 AAs for externals if I find I need them.:)I plan on using it to watch a food plot to cover more area than a still cam.
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Those look nice James! One thing I do with those ss boards is to bridge the solder points for the motion kill switch then use the switch in line to power on/off the battery. I'm starting a W290 build that has HD video, that will be my first cam/video unit.
@ Charlie, I'll post some 3D camo jobs tonite. The 3D would also look nice on a picture frame.
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Here's the build along camera with 3D white oak bark mold camo.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/07-10-10/IMG_0748.jpg)
And here's a slave flash with the same camo.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/07-10-10/IMG_0749.jpg)
Both against a maple.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g177/14fork/07-10-10/IMG_0750.jpg)
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Very nice! I have some maple bark drying now for the DXG build. :)
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Jim, you have jumped in with both feet. Alot of fun building these cams.
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How about a how to on the bark mold? I see it, I like it, but I'm not sure I understand how to do it.
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Marvin take a tube of silicon caulking and use it to make a mold first.Just cover an area on a tree you want to duplicate with the caulk and use a plastic bag to mash it into the bark good and smooth it out.I just leave the bag in place and trim it off the next day when I pull the silicon from the tree.After that just follow the instructions on this page for making your "bark".It is really simple.Since paint does not stick to silicon well you can spray your mold with paint just before filling it with liquid nails and your bark will come off colored.I spray mine with gray primer and just touch it up when I get it glued on.
http://www.easy3dcamo.com/downloads/Easy3D.pdf
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I've heard of some people having trouble with their silicon drying. I used silicon rubber from Sherwin Williams and pulled the mold from the tree 24 hours later and it was dry. As mentioned earlier, use at least 4 tubes and don't make it too thin as this will be a master mold that can be reused many times.
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Finished up my day only video cam today.DXG with a Bigfoot board and enough room for 8 AAs for externals if I need that many to fill the memory card.I have my mold in the picture for those interested in making one.The flash washes out a lot of the details on the bark and mold but you get the drift. :)
(http://funhunts.homestead.com/dxg.jpg)
(http://funhunts.homestead.com/dxg2.jpg)
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That came out nice. Could you throw up a link for the videos when you get some?
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I probably won't put it out until this weekend.I built it to watch a clover food plot to see what eats there during the day when I am not around.I know there is more activity at night but I feel there is more going on in daylight than I think and I have to hunt in daylight. ;) :D
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OK, I guess I'm dense. I still don't get it on the mold.
Please explain in more detail. I went to the link Jim posted above, but still don't get it.
Do you use silicone caulking directly on tree bark to make the mold? Once the mold is made, do you then put liquid nails on the mold to get the "bark" to use on the camera?
What about painting? There's reference to the paint not sticking to the Liquid Nails. If that is the case, can something be added to it to color it?
Help a brother out!!!!
I've got one camera and don't want to invest in more right now, but it will be going in a semi-public area. I don't want to lose it before I even get rolling here.
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Marvin I put the silicon right on the kind of tree I am trying to match.I peel it off the next day and that is my mold.You fill it with liquid nails or whatever you want to use,smooth it out and peel out your bark when it drys.You then just glue the bark onto whatever you are camoing.I only use about a half tube of caulk to make a mold big enough to cover my small 1020 case.I also use a different adhesive than liquid nails that comes in gallon cans.I spread it with a trowl instead of using a caulking gun.Mine drys overnight enough to peel from the mold instead of the longer dry time of the stuff from the tubes but any of it will work..Paint sticks to the stuff well enough.You are just using it for camo not waterproofing. jmo
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The silicon won't stick to the tree? Do you have to clean it after you pull it off?
Sorry Jim, I'm an accountant, not a construction expert.
I want to get mine set up before I put it out and the season starts in ......24 days here in KY.
Thanks for your patience with this rookie.
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Marvin, no, the silicon will not stick to the tree. There will be some bark imbedded in the mold which you can flick out then maybe hose it off. I used locktite PL375 construction adhesive as I've heard that regular liquid nails takes forever to dry. The PL375 will usually be dry enough to remove from the mold in 24 hrs. You want it somewhat pliable to wrap around the edges of the case. Get busy cause you'll need for it to hang out a bit to get rid of the adhesive and paint smell.
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Marvin as long as you do not have it real thin around the edges it will pull off without much effort once it is dried.I guess on a real deep barked tree wetting the tree first would make it easier.No need to wash it.Any little bits stuck to the mold will just be picked up by the liquid nails and add to your camo job.
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OK, thanks. I'll get right on it.
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Jim is correct, liquid nail takes about 3 days to dry. I think I might try the 375 stuff. Marvin, you do not have to put the paint in the mold before you put the adhesive in. You can paint it after you pull it from the mold. Jim has just found a nifty shortcut.
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Guys,just a little tip on molding with silicone caulk.If you add a few drops of water based paint like latex or acrylic and mix it in thoroughly,it will act as a catalyst and cause the silicone to set up in a few minutes.You could use the mold in about an hour.
Experiment with a small batch first.Use a color that shows up well so you can tell when it is well mixed.Don't waste time as it can set fast.I would start with about 2 drops of paint per oz of caulk and see how it goes.
When it feels set up on the outside,it will be set up all the way through.Without a catalyst,it could feel set on the outside but be sticky against the bark.
Don't sweat bark in the mold.As James said,it will imbed itself in your first cast.
Try the paint.You will be surprised.If it sets very fast,you may have to mix and apply 2 batches.Just make sure it is cured well before pulling from the tree.You can test a small piece at the edge to see if it wants to tear easily.
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Thanks Jim.I might give that a try.
Here are some videos from the day only DXG build.Waiting on parts now for a dxg IR build. :)
http://www.youtube.com/user/jwgoblin
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That's a good video. Is your mic outside the case?
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here's a nice one from Up in the Northern territory
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/tradtusker/DSC02178.jpg)
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I have no mic on this build.I got some extra ones with the order for the IR build and am going to pull this one long enough to stick a sister board and external mic in it then.Did not want to attempt too much on the first build until I saw I was going to like video.I am new to this so am taking baby steps right now. :biglaugh: I wanted to make sure I did not want to stick to still cams before getting too involved with the video stuff before getting too complicated. :)
Great pic Tradtusker! Here are some of mine from the last couple weeks.
http://picasaweb.google.com/jwgoblin/GameCamPictures#
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That's a great pic Andy! S600?
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Yip thats the S600 :thumbsup: