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Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: chessieboy on February 03, 2008, 07:32:00 PM
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I needed an arm guard for my first osage bow. Since I made the bow logic said "hey dummy make the arm guard". So I said OK.
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z149/chessieboy/100_0326.jpg)
(http:// http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z149/chessieboy/100_0327.jpg)
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Then I saw some of your arm guards with the knifes attached and said I need to get one of those. Then logic said "hey dummy try to make one". Again I said OK.
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z149/chessieboy/100_0330-1.jpg)
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z149/chessieboy/100_0329.jpg)
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z149/chessieboy/100_0328-1.jpg)
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Ok now I need you input. In the last picture you can see that the tang doesn't go straight through the antler but that because it's curved. Is this OK. Next the antler doesn't mate up perfectly flat with the tang. When clamped it makes good contact no voids that I can see but when unclamped they don't make contact. Will the epoxy and brass inserts hold this or should I try to get them flatter now?
Next should I smooth over the shoulders of the antler when the tang starts to be the blade in other words taper them down(far right of antler in last picture)?
Lastly when making the sheath for this knife when I wet form it should I try to form it on the round arm guard or will it be ok to form it on something flat then attach it to the guard?
Thanks for any input.
Bill
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Bill,
Looking good my man, real good. It's going to be a pride and joy of yours, and most likely won't be the last you make!
It is ok for the antler to have that curve to it.
Just as long as there are NO voids , some gap is OK. If, after epoxying there is a gap, fill it with superglue. Insidious water will get in if not, and ruin your hard work.
I would smooth over the shoulders now, as opposed to later. Actually, next time I would do it before cutting the antler, then it is symetrical with minimal fuss.
I'd wet form it on something other than the gaurd... but I haven't tackled a AG knife
Good luck!
Mike
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I forgot to ask, when I'm ready to deal with the blade I should heat it red hot, quence in warm oil then heat red hot and let cool slowly. Is this correct? The metal is from a circular saw blade.
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Deal w/ the blade before you attach the antler. Depending on the steel, if you don't overheat it when grinding you might not have to heat treat it at all. Usually too hot to hold in your bare hand is too hot & will begin to change the temper.
If you want to heat treat it, grind it to 95% the shape you want.
Then heat it slowly to non magnetic & let it air cool, the slower the cool down the better.
When cold, heat it again & quench it in warm oil. It'll come out of the quench black & ugly looking. Wipe it down & finish up the grinding. Bring the finish up to a good clean look.
Then put it in your oven or toaster oven @ somewhere around 300 degrees. Watch the steel as the colors change. When they reach a yellow - dark straw color remove it from the oven & quench again. Don't go to answer the phone . . when the colors begin to change, they move right along especially on the thinner parts, ie. the edge & point.
Polish it out w/ 400 to 600 grit wet-dry paper w/ Windex.
Then mount the antler scales & finish it up.
Good luck . .
Larry
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Lar you are a big help. I have one futher question. I've been told you can buy the brass "round stock" at hardware stores. Is this true and if so what should I ask for?
Big thanks again
Bill
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ask for 1/8 or 3/16 or 1/4 brass round stock
most but not all carry several sizes
that knife is gonna be sswweeeet
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Bill,
If there's a welding supply near you, get yourself some uncoated brazing rod. You can probably buy it in the big home supply centers too.
If not PM me your addy & I'll get some to you.
Brass works just the opposite of steel . .heat dark red & quench it to soften it. No temper req'd.
Tempering makes it easier to peen over in the handle slabs. Slightly countersink the holes before you insert/glue & peen the pins over.
You still gotta be careful & go slow on the peening so's you don't split the slab but the soft brass gives you a little edge there.
Larry
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Larry how do you quench the brass rod? Does this make the peening easier?
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I quench it in water. It anneals the brass as opposed to hardening it.
It makes the peening easier.
Larry