Trad Gang
Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: RGK on February 09, 2008, 11:36:00 PM
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So I thought I would post this. This IS NOT the only way to do it but this is one way.
I went through my stash of saw blades. I don’t have a shortage of them. I use the ones without carbide teeth so I know the whole blade is made of hard steel.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw1.jpg)
This is going to be a drop point skinner blade out of a .08 think 10 inch circular saw blade. A file told me it was good and hard
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw3.jpg)
I used the Dremmel tool to cut the knife out of the saw blade. I
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw4.jpg)
With a little grinding and polishing, it cleans up well.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw5.jpg)
To add a little bit of style to the knife, I used a round chainsaw file on the backbone of the blade. I didn’t go very deep.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw7.jpg)
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I then used gun bluing on the file work and then polished away everything but what was in the grooves. I think it adds a nice touch to the look of the blade.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw9.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw8.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw91.jpg)
In order to drill the pin holes, I needed to soften the steel. I used a MAP gas tourch and slowly heated the tang.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw92.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw93.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw94.jpg)
Then I drilled the holes.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw95.jpg)
I cleaned up the blade again and added the bevel.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/circsaw96.jpg)
At this point you can either put a handle on the knife or heat threat it to get the knife even harder than it already is. If the steel is already good and hard, I may leave it alone. On some knives I will heat treat.
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I like to use exotic woods or antler for the handles. Pins and slow cure epoxy holds the scales in place. This wood is called bloodwood.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/knives/hunter9.jpg)
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Do you heat treat the blade at all or use it as it was in the saw blade?........I have non carbide blades as well they seem to have some carbon in them per my spark test but I was still able to drill them with no annealing. I think I make things to complicated sometimes.....I should probably just carve a blade out of what I have and be happy with it!
Nice looking knife!
take care, Scott
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Cut a section of one of the blades and heat treat it and see if you can make it harder.
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Farmboy, IMHO you need to heat treat that blade if you were able to drill it with ease. Thats seems soft. Drills don't deal well with hardened steel.
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very nice knives :thumbsup:
i have a question about the chrome -nickel-moly
saw blades . i made a test blade from a kromedge
blade and i did not need to anneal before drilling the pin holes and after several attempts to edge harden the blade i could not
get it to pass the brass rod test .
the edge seemed hard but gummy also when honed on a whet stone
have you had the same problem ?
or good possibility i am doing something wrong
any advice would be greatly appreciated
thanks in advance
kevin
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Leftie shot, he was able to drill the handle portion which he heated with the map gas to remove the temper. The blade portion should not have lost it's temper and is therefore quite hard.
:bigsmyl:
-Brett