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Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: dave hiltz on June 20, 2008, 01:42:00 PM
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Does anyone have any ideas on how and what to use to drill L6 steel? I am have the works of hell to drill holes in it! I have made a few small knifes out of it and had a really hard time drilling it. Any help will help me save the hair I have left on my head. Thanks Dave.
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Is it annealed/soft? If not you will have to use carbide bits and go slow. I'm sure Lin or KBA can give more advice on it.
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It is a big saw blade from a mill so I think that it is NOT annealed. Where can I get carbide bits?
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I sent you a reply back to your PM. SLOW SLOW witha cobalt bit. That is if ya don't heat it up and let it cool SLOW!<><
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Uh and sticshooter too! LOL! There are other too! Ooops!
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I would soften the entire piece, grind, drill, file, whatever, and then harden and temper.
If you are going to do any grinding with power tools on the cutting area, more than likely, you will ruin the hardness/temper anyway.
If you want to just soften the handle area, you might be successful doing this:
In a dark room, suspend the working portion of theblade in water. Take an aceteleyne torch and draw the tang area until it JUST STARTS GETTING A LITTLE RED COLOR, and then stop. Let it cool black. Repeat. Repeat.
Try drilling.
I do that to completely hardened 5160 and W1/2 and can drill, tap, whatever I want.
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thanks guys, Lin had given me instuctions a while ago but it seems like eack piece of the L-6 steel is different? I managed to get holes drilled in three blades just now, so maybe I might have it licked? Thanks so much for the input. Dave.
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Dave,
The difference may be in the way they hardened the saw blade. They may have somewhat differentially heat treated it. It may be softer the closer you get to the arbor hole. The only way to know is test it.
I'll second what Karl says. Even if you decide not to forge, just having the ability to manipulate the heat treat is a handy thing. We'll all help. :campfire:
Lin