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Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: bjansen on June 02, 2015, 03:17:00 PM
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I thought I might give this a try and see if I could do this without a press. I used a core of 1084 and some 304 stainless for the exterior. I ground the stock clean, clamped and put a full weld bead all the way around the billet with the exception of a tiny spot by the welded on rod. I thoroughly heated and hand hammered the material on the anvil. The initial pics below are after the billet was forge welded and I cut the end/ground the sides to see if it held together. After that, I forged a rough knife, cut, ground and made a blade.
In the end, I was able to get a knife out of it...and the majority of it did forge weld together. I have a spot on the right side show up where there was a void (as you can see in the pics) and additionally I could see a couple areas on the tang that did not fully weld together. So this is far from ideal, but is was a lot of fun to try.
This is the last blade that I will make in NJ….moving to the Milwaukee, WI area in a few weeks.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/2014-04/9B2443C5-2C9D-4899-A97D-840377620121_zpshedpfaks.jpg) (http://s492.photobucket.com/user/bjjanse/media/2014-04/9B2443C5-2C9D-4899-A97D-840377620121_zpshedpfaks.jpg.html)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/2014-04/0792BA18-E7C3-4F8E-9E97-ACD0D4996920_zpskmmkkthj.jpg) (http://s492.photobucket.com/user/bjjanse/media/2014-04/0792BA18-E7C3-4F8E-9E97-ACD0D4996920_zpskmmkkthj.jpg.html)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/2014-04/5C94CBF6-8705-473C-9381-2A60EEE91991_zpsexwywmvr.jpg) (http://s492.photobucket.com/user/bjjanse/media/2014-04/5C94CBF6-8705-473C-9381-2A60EEE91991_zpsexwywmvr.jpg.html)
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(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/knife%201_zpsaajiwmce.jpg) (http://s492.photobucket.com/user/bjjanse/media/knife%201_zpsaajiwmce.jpg.html)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/knife%202_zpsojeyjcii.jpg) (http://s492.photobucket.com/user/bjjanse/media/knife%202_zpsojeyjcii.jpg.html)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/knife%203_zpscindoftv.jpg) (http://s492.photobucket.com/user/bjjanse/media/knife%203_zpscindoftv.jpg.html)
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Fantastic job!
Notice on the photo of the cut end how the core squeezes out? That just goes to show how tough the stainless is.
You can literally forge this too much and squirt the core right out the sides.
This makes the beginning proportions very important when you want to keep the bottom edge of the stainless jacket at a particular point on the blade side.
Make sure to take measurements of how thick the beginning pieces were and how far you forged it down.
All this matters.
But very cool knife and good luck on your move and new life in Visconsin. :)
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Awesome job! Ever since seeing examples like Karl's, I've wanted to give it a try, you did great. I was curious what dimensions you'd started with as I looked at the pics. Any reason in particular you went with 304?
In my attempts with 3 layer billets, I've had a heck of a time keeping both sides looking the same for the finished knife... I also end up with the outer layer lower on the bevel than the other side. Drives me nuts.
By the way, nice job on the coined spacer, too. The whole package is really nice. Thanks for sharing it and good luck with the move.
Jeremy
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Thanks. I started with 1/8"x 1" strips of stainless and a .200 x 1" thick strip of 1084, all about 8 inches long. I used 304 because I mistakenly ordered some one time for spacer material ( was intending to order 303). I saw a post once where Karl mentioned 304 would work so I gave it a shot.
This one was difficult to keep even as well (as you can see I am way off) . Actually it was difficult to even get a strip of carbon as a cutting edge. I had this billet cupped a tiny bit and that is what made it difficult.
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Looking good. Great first attempt.
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wow - makes it seem "doable" for a hack like me.
KB - I think you are seeing the weld bead in the cut off pic. Not that I question your knowledge or that the stainless outer can and will squeeze out the carbon inner - just that I don't think this is what you are seeing in the photo.
I, too, struggle with my uniformity from side to side on my san mai knives. I either end up with too much SAN or too much MAI - but never is it even from side to side.
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Brad, that is impressive!
Very successful project, I'm sure the learning curve is less steep for your next project.
The knife turned out great, your fearless!
Steve
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Potomac Forge
Member, W.F. Moran Jr. Foundation
ABS AP
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Very cool, Brad, and impressive. Great to hear that you will heading back this way, kinda. Hope you can make it to the PBS OYG, at least for a short visit.
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Edit post.
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Originally posted by kbaknife:
I disagree because I see the same thing in my billets and I don't use a weld bead.
Stainless will not move like the simple carbon core.
It's like stepping on a jelly sandwich - just squirts the jelly right out!
OK - I'm editing this post but leaving the original.
You are correct. I took another look at that photo. Where the weld bead is sitting out on top of the stainless edge is now obvious to me.
I was mistaken.
That said, the core will still squeeze out if you begin with thick enough components. In fact, as I forge mine down I sometimes have to grind off what squeezes out to avoid looking almost like that! And I always have to do that right aftr the first squeeze.
It's always something.
Good eye, Bobby.
Originally posted by Bobby Urban:
KB - I think you are seeing the weld bead in the cut off pic. Not that I question your knowledge or that the stainless outer can and will squeeze out the carbon inner - just that I don't think this is what you are seeing in the photo.
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[Why it did this double post I have no idea. And also why all the bold letters - I have no idea.
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Please disregard these multiple posts.