Trad Gang
Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: tippit on May 21, 2016, 11:30:00 PM
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Had to try another...smaller and a little different. Forged from a 4" scrap piece of 1084, knife is 7 1/2" OAL. Spending too much time in the forge, Annee needs to be ridden tomorrow...tippit
(http:// [url=http://imgur.com/ADSPqAh] [img]http://i.imgur.com/ADSPqAh.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
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Cool! When Lin posted the very first XRhea knife here I thought, "this is right up Tippit's ally since he doesn't scale a lot of his knives." Just one of those weird thoughts I had back then that doesn't really seem weird at all now. Awesome metal work as always!
Todd
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They're gone get better and better Jeff. I've been chamfering my handle corners a little. Good job.
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Back to the shop. I chamfered all the edges and rounded the spine. Then put a Scotch Brite finish on the knife and a hand sanded finish on the blade. It has a nice smooth feel now...tippit
(http:// [url=http://imgur.com/LGB75Rf] [img]http://i.imgur.com/LGB75Rf.jpg?1)[/url] [/IMG]
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I'm actually talking about doing it with a hammer just befor you curl it under.
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Back to the forge. Grasshopper is learning :)
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That knife looks great, Jeff! Well done!
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(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7537/26487180154_76afe133bc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GmzHRU)
There are about 7 basic techniques in blacksmithing each of which might be accomplished by different means using a variety of way according to the time period you are staying within. Long subject. Tapering is one of the techniques.
When tapering, no matter what stock you are starting with, you should first square (or rectangle) the piece before tapering. Why? Because that gives you corners which are distinct lines to see. Taper it square, then at the right heat (low red) bump the corners in to the necessary degree whether it's an octagon or to round. Round needs to be at medium heat.
The heat and the different levels of heat plays a part as important as the hammer or any other factors.