Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: bigcountry on May 12, 2009, 01:54:00 PM
-
You know I am surprised I never hear anyone sinewing a hickory bow. Hickory's seem to have a tendency to get a little set especially if tillered in less than ideal humidity. But its tough, and figured it would be perfect for sinew.
I have a roughed out hickory bow going. Its not floor tillered yet. Its going to be 68" long, 4" handle, 2" fades, 2" limb width at the fades, pure pyamid all the way to 1/2" tips. I am thinking of sinewing just to keep some nice reflex the stave has from drying.
-
In your climate I would suggest not sinewing a hickory bow or a bow of that length. Like sinew and hide glue, hickory is very hygroscopic; meaning it readily takes on and releases moisture from the atmosphere). I built a replica of Jay Massey's Medicine Bow, sinew backed hickory with a rawhide covering., 60" long and when built, pulling 56#@26". After a month, it pulled 45#@26". Later on I sent it to a friend in Colorado to play with and before long it was over 60#@26". All due to the difference in R/H. This bow was sealed with one coat of Massey finish, 4 coats of Tru-Oil and a spray of satin poly.
The best way to prevent too much set is to be sure the wood is very dry, take your time tillering and don't overstress the bow while building it. Keep it in a hot box between building sessions. When done you can add reflex and toast the belly a bit to help out too.
-
Yea, its pretty damp here. Guess there is a reason most don't do it then.
-
The Native Americans along the Eastern Seaboard all used selfbows and hickory was one of their favorite woods. A little set won't hurt anything and some say it makes a bow shoot sweeter.
-
I've built two sinew/hickory bows and they were very good bows. I live in Louisiana so I suspect the humidity here is as bad as Maryland.
The key with making a good hickory bow in my climate is to keep in a dry box through out the tillering process and keeping it dry after it is completed. I used to keep all of my selfbows in PVC tubes with small packs of silca gel and it seemed to help. On a hot and humid day though all of my selfbows, even osage, get that "spongy" feel after a while.
I will add that you should rethink the dimensions of your bow if you decide to sinew it. In my experience, a long sinew-backed bow is counter productive. Probably the additional weight of the sinew...with a 2" wide piece of hickory you could make a 60" bow for a 28" draw and have a real good shooter.
-
I sinew backed a hickory recurve this winter. But, the density of that particular tree wasn't to snuff and the sinew is overpowering the belly. To get a good shooter out of it I will have to sand down the belly and laminate a strip of osage to it.
I suggest the use of watered down Titebond 3 with the sinew to counter the effects of the humidity we experience. Let it sit at least a month to cure. It worked great on the osage recurve I sinewed.
-
Well, alot of what has been said is true. My question is why did Jay Massey make a sinew backed hickory as one of his last hunting bows? Alaska, wet? Probably wouldn' work huh? Good shootin' Steve
-
I agree that you need to keep ALL hickory bows in a drying box whenever you are not working on it. A short, wide sinew-backed recurve makes a super turkey or dee bow for ground blinds. I have made several of them and have had no trouble with humidity or set. (I live in Georgia). I do use Titebond III rather than hide glue and I put many coats of Wipe-On Poly on it to seal it. I think sinew-backed hickory is a great combination. It will not break, and you can draw it very far back. Good speed also.