Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: BobW on February 25, 2008, 04:18:00 PM
-
tight fitting nocks (to the string) would result in what/where type of hit on a target? Or just inconsistent? Just wondering.
BobW
-
Inconsistant.... :banghead:
-
Oddly enough, means no difference at all on my bow.
Used to sand them to fit, got tired of that, snapped a fresh, unsanded nock onto a bare shaft and got fine flight.
-
I Agree with Jeff, I have Never Sanded My Nocks, and I am Happy with My Arrow Flight. Thats a "To Each His Own" kinda Thing! Do what Works best for You!!
-
Too tight can result in inconsistant arrow flight and permature string wear. You should be able to nock an arrow and let it hang down pointing at the ground, pluck the string and have the arrow come off the string...enough tension to hold it on until the string is plucked. This optimum.
-
Of course there are mixed results here. I don't like mine to snap so hard they hurt your ears, but I want them to be snug. I'm using 2016 Yukon aluminums with the instert type nocks. I have not spread them and they work very well. They are snug on the string but they fly very consistently.
-
What I have wondered is that if a tight knock takes about 6 lbs of force to pull off then how much energy are you wasting?
I would have to agree that a knock that is too tight wears you serving out quickly. :cool:
-
If you're not careful, sanding the nock will take too much off, then the nock isn't connected to the string like it should be. this can result in a dry fire!
-
Tight nocks make a bow much noisier because it plucks the string on release.I plays with your bareshaft tuning big time as well.
-
If I have a tight nock, I put it in really hot water for 10-15 seconds and then put it on the string to cool. Seems to work OK.
-
I like my nocks tight enough to snap on but loose enough that the string will turn freely in the throat of the nock.I bareshaft out to 20 yards no problem.I shoot three under and don't have to worry about a dryfire.
-
Post I had on the "Widow Wall" awhile back. Guy was having a hard time bare shaft tuning carbon's:
Ran into the same problem trying to tune carbons. No matter what I did I would get a severe nock right indicating a stiff shaft. Add more weight , nock right, longer shaft, nock right. Finally started to tinker with the nocks because they seemed way too tight. Trying to spread them apart didn't work, they would just go back to the original shape. Sanding or filing isn't consistent. Solved the problem by taking a wooden paint stir stick that they give at the paint stores when you by a gallon of paint. Pushed a dozen nocks on the side of the stir stick and dipped them in a pot of boiling water for a couple of minutes. Pulled the stick out and ran it under cold water. BINGO!!! The stick is just the right width, the nocks are all the same and they fit the serving perfectly. Tuning problem solved.
-
Nocks that are too tight will cause a problem...if not in the perfect back yard stance, it will some day in the field when you have to manufacture and create shots. When your shot is not perfect, that's when the too tight nocks will cause you problems.
Also, you will loose FPS. Chrono a too tight nocked arrow, and then sand it so its like a selfnock and there is no snap at all...and chrono it again.
Also again, nocks too tight will cause the bow to be louder....again, compare it to a selfnocked arrow.
Also again, when the arrow is suppose to leave the string and the arrow don't cause its too tight, it will hang on a milla second longer and the string might alter its course.
With the sport we choose, and all the 'prep' that goes with it, might as well make sure your nocks are perfect as well....some day, that quieter bow, faster arrow, or contorted shot might matter. I don't hold that to chance if I can help it, and I can.
Me, I like them to snap on just enough to hold them self on the string with a little tension so they don't fall of the string too easy. I'm a real stickler about my nock tension.
-
IMO, just say "no" to tight nocks on the center serving and eliminate a source of arrow release inconsistency.
Some advocate the nock should hold onto the string by its own weight, and release with a light finger tap to the string. To me, that's still too tight.
I don't want the nock to "float" loosely on the center serving either.
I want full nock throat contact to the serving, yet it will never stay attached to the string. I'm always careful to select center serving fiber diameters that will gimme the best fit to the nocks I use, along with the bowstring's fiber size and strand count. That sounds like a mouthful, but it's easier to adjust than you'd think.
-
Thanks for all the input. Always trying to take it a step further....
I didn't think my arrows were "bad", but when I got a new bow, I noticed that they were "tough" to put on the string, and made quite a "twang". Never really tried to achieve the "tap & drop" set up. Recently (yesterday) I took delivery of new nocks that are significantly less in effort to mount to the string. Need to shoot them to see what it might mean, but I thought I was okay before this adventure....
Thanks for the time taken in your comments. I will post back later after I get some shooting in.
BobW
-
Any variance in your release will be magnified by a tight fitting nock. You do not see it as much on the range because we all strive and practice to make perfect.
See what happens when it is 10 degrees out and that big buck coming in has you so pumped your heart sounds like a jackhammer. You will see it then.
-
I purchased the cheap card board finger nail files tha you buy at the local drug store, put 2 of them back to back and pull them thru the nock, sawing back and forth 3 to 6 times depending which bow I'm setting up for. they sell for about 1.50 a dozen and will last thru a lot of nocks.
-
I like my nocks to fit without any slop on the string but not hold the arrow on the string. I have found my accuracy and consistency much better, at least for me. I also have gone to two nocking points, one above and below and found that also improved my consistency and accuracy when my release dragged (fingers not releasing at the same time or too much pressure on one/more fingers).
If you shoot Easton type nocks on carbon or aluminum there is no reason to file the nock...this only removes material that potentially weakens the nock. I simply bend the ears, gently so they are parallel...giving a nice smooth channel to the bottom of the nock. I have never had a nock fail this way and it's far smoother/stronger imho than sanding.
-
if you don't want to file your nocks for carbon arrows, you can try different brands, because they have different throat diameters. An easton uni-nock, carbon express, gold tip, bohning, all have a little different pinch on the serving.
I like my nocks to barely hold, so i use the easton 3-d supernock, it holds alot less than the uni-nocks do.
-
Since I spin my own strings, I can choose the center serving fiber type and diameter. I always use some form of HMPE fiber for center serving, and I keep a stock of different sizes, from .015" to .025". A quick test on the braced string lets me know how a particular size will work with given arra nock. Most often I choose .016" BCY #2D serving for a 14 strand Dyneema string. For 12 strands I usually find that BCY Halo .019" works just fine.
If you don't twist or spin yer own strings, I do recommend adding yer own center servings. All it takes is a serving tool and a few small thread spools of different diameter serving fiber - maybe $10-$20 total, and will last for many many strings. Easy as warm apple pie to to serve a string and you may be able to buy yer premade strings without a center serving a bit cheaper.