Post by: kennym on July 22, 2017, 02:00:00 PM
If you use a stop pin, drill an oversized hole deeper and put a spring under your pin to let it come up to the level of the limb thickness.
Put the limb against the pin(plastic on form of course)and the pressure strip can run right over the pin.
It adjusts itself to limb height so no slipped lams over the pin.
(http://i.imgur.com/OWUIwhP.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JOLlMBf.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rzryuvP.jpg)
Post by: JamesV on July 23, 2017, 10:19:00 AM
That is a good idea but a little complicated for me. I use a couple of 5/8" sprig nails to hold the core to the riser.
James
Post by: kennym on July 23, 2017, 10:25:00 AM
But you gotta have a stop pin on this form anyway, so I thought why not make it where it doesn't let lams slide over the top of pin .
Post by: kennym on July 23, 2017, 10:27:00 AM
Post by: kennym on July 23, 2017, 04:32:00 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on July 24, 2017, 10:15:00 AM
And a tip overlay jig that can be used with a profile sander or Robo sander to pre bevel the overlays.
(http://i.imgur.com/BEQSX9P.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/4ui8s9j.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/C7tuTgi.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/KpGQbAK.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/j5LCx6t.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/K6pNXkt.jpg)
Post by: kennym on July 24, 2017, 12:17:00 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on July 24, 2017, 10:18:00 PM
Post by: kennym on July 24, 2017, 10:20:00 PM
Post by: jess stuart on July 25, 2017, 12:52:00 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on July 25, 2017, 05:34:00 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/g9SwjC4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wPmS9Fd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/kvUJJaW.jpg)
Post by: monterey on July 25, 2017, 06:14:00 PM
Post by: Bvas on July 25, 2017, 07:59:00 PM
I also use the hacksaw. But after marking out the sight window, I make cuts just shy of full depth about 1/8" apart for the full height of the window. Then I just pop the pieces out with a flat screwdriver and finish with a rasp or file.
I also have a set of small sanding drums from HF that fit in a hand drill. They work well for shaping sight window and grip area. For as cheap as they were, I have been surprised out how well they work and how long they have lasted.
Post by: Bvas on July 30, 2017, 11:52:00 AM
No bows currently being built, so we will have to wait to see if it works.
(http://i.imgur.com/k3yCFLj.jpg)
Post by: Bvas on July 31, 2017, 04:37:00 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/BBBzoeh.jpg)
Post by: kennym on July 31, 2017, 05:33:00 PM
Post by: on July 31, 2017, 05:58:00 PM
Are you gonna use some kind of pressure strip to keep things flat...
Post by: Bvas on July 31, 2017, 06:04:00 PM
Quote
Originally posted by Shredd:Yessir. I will use the same as I use on my bow forms.
Are you gonna use some kind of pressure strip to keep things flat...
16ga galvanized steel strip with two wire lamp cord glued down the middle.
Post by: Wolftrail on August 01, 2017, 09:09:00 AM
Post by: Trux Turning on August 01, 2017, 01:27:00 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/cJa9j1r.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/4lVXo5b.jpg)
Post by: Trux Turning on August 01, 2017, 01:31:00 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/Wb23P85.jpg)
Post by: peter61 on August 01, 2017, 01:32:00 PM
Just a little question to you bowyers: on a bowform,when you working with innertubes, what's the distance from the dowels to the surface of the form?
Greetings, Peter
Post by: Bvas on August 01, 2017, 04:00:00 PM
Post by: monterey on August 01, 2017, 09:45:00 PM
Post by: Robert Armstrong on August 27, 2017, 06:02:00 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on August 31, 2017, 04:40:00 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on August 31, 2017, 05:28:00 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/ZHeVZXP.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OZGjbeA.jpg)
Post by: on September 01, 2017, 06:33:00 PM
Post by: Mad Max on September 01, 2017, 09:31:00 PM
I like the recurve tip shaping jig.
It has a smile face on it
:thumbsup:
Post by: kennym on September 01, 2017, 10:05:00 PM
Post by: Roy from Pa on September 01, 2017, 10:32:00 PM
Post by: Mad Max on September 01, 2017, 11:26:00 PM
Take the trash out Stic
Post by: Crooked Stic on September 02, 2017, 09:10:00 AM
Post by: kennym on September 02, 2017, 10:02:00 AM
I have one , your plastic wrap ever come out of the box at a bad time? A pc of wood arrow thru the roll with washer and nut on both ends stops that crap!
Post by: Roy from Pa on September 02, 2017, 11:11:00 AM
Post by: Crooked Stic on September 02, 2017, 12:57:00 PM
Post by: kennym on September 02, 2017, 01:01:00 PM
Also it makes a diff which way the plasticroll is in there. Sometimes they put it in backwards .
Post by: kennym on September 02, 2017, 01:04:00 PM
Post by: arachnid on September 02, 2017, 02:39:00 PM
Post by: Mad Max on September 02, 2017, 02:40:00 PM
I got one
Use tape to hold the plastic wrap on the form.
:D
Post by: Bvas on September 02, 2017, 03:10:00 PM
Quote
Originally posted by Mad Max:X2 Just walking past the form can create enough air movement to screw up plastic wrap.
Hey
I got one
Use tape to hold the plastic wrap on the form.
:D
Post by: Texas Trad on September 02, 2017, 10:30:00 PM
It comes in a roll and has 4 folds, 2 of the folds are a little wider than the other 2, I measure off about 8" longer than my glass. I cut along the folds, using the wider pieces for 1pc recurves. I do my layups on the plastic, on a table, then wrap my layup (take gloves off before wrapping) I then use masking tape to secure wrap and fold the ends over to catch any squeeze out I then can lay bundle on form. Since the plastic is somewhat clear and I have marked the center on my riser laminations and glass, I can line everything up with the center of my form.
Post by: Crooked Stic on October 04, 2017, 12:55:00 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/ftEPAXY.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/BUkiBIo.jpg?1)
Post by: stickmonkey on October 06, 2017, 09:25:00 AM
Post by: stickmonkey on October 06, 2017, 09:27:00 AM
Post by: stickmonkey on October 06, 2017, 09:33:00 AM
I also pay attention to how I apply the glue in the back and belly so I do not get a bubble or dry spot under the glass. I will leave the center of the lams just a little thicker so whenpressure is applies the glue squeezes out and doesn’t trap any air.
Post by: Bvas on May 26, 2019, 01:49:18 PM
Getting ready to glue up my 20 piece laminated riser today and have come up with several tips that might help others.
#1 is the handy little jig that is easily adapted to the form. In test runs this has worked very well to keep everything in place.
#2. I don’t have my lams yet to put under all the riser pieces for fit. This bow uses .003 taper(.002 back and .001 belly). So I made myself a .002 power lam afrwinches longer than the riser from a piece of boo kenny had used for a packing strip on a previous order. Thanks kenny :thumbsup: Then I just made a short lam to get to the same thickness as what my stack will be under the riser.
Now I don’t have to keep putting my actual lams under the riser to check fit and Risk damaging them.
#3 Is the simplest but best of all. For those of you that use plastic wrap to cover the form and can’t stand the way it blows around and wrinkles. Carefully take and put clear packing tape the length of your form. Then unroll you plastic wrap (I cut my rolls to half width)from one end to the other sticking it down as you go. Then just a few release cuts on the sides and it lays down perfect.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Post by: Dannon on May 27, 2019, 12:44:22 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/zX3DBGMN/298-BC709-A2-D3-4532-8-D47-F623-CDA20-A15.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhLcYTTY)
Post by: Roy from Pa on May 27, 2019, 12:56:13 PM
Darn things sometimes keep sliding off because of the 2 angles being glued together.
Post by: Pat B on May 27, 2019, 01:11:41 PM
Post by: Dannon on May 27, 2019, 01:54:18 PM
Post by: Bvas on May 27, 2019, 07:30:36 PM
If you cut the clamp notches deeper it would also work for glueing on belly side overlays.
Post by: Flem on May 28, 2019, 06:17:13 PM
While I was looking for ideas, I saw where somebody had put a little flap of clear tape on the shank of the bit the blow the dust away. Man did that work good! So simple.
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Post by: BigJim on May 29, 2019, 01:05:23 PM
Finish assembling the form, blow up the hose and cook.
We have gone through cases of the stretch wrap roles. It may not be as cheap, but it is fast and less aggravating to me.
Lots of hoses instead of clamps. Simpler once you get used to it.
And a pattern makers vise!! save up for one. About $300 +- it is worth every penny and then some.
BIgJim
Post by: Bvas on May 29, 2019, 07:54:13 PM
I’m still using the band method on my forms, so the shrink wrap would make it a little difficult to hook the bands on the pegs.
Post by: BigJim on May 30, 2019, 12:10:09 AM
BigJim
Post by: bobbykelley on May 31, 2019, 01:26:18 PM
Post by: Bvas on May 31, 2019, 01:38:03 PM
Would anyone be willing to share some good tips for wedges? And a great big thanks to all for sharing these have answered some of my questions. :clapper:For takedown limbs or tip wedges?
Post by: bobbykelley on June 09, 2019, 08:11:05 AM
Post by: kennym on June 09, 2019, 10:02:11 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Crooked Stic on June 10, 2019, 07:12:01 AM
Post by: kennym on June 10, 2019, 07:48:00 AM
Post by: bobbykelley on June 10, 2019, 09:34:07 AM
Post by: Mike L. on June 22, 2019, 08:41:29 PM
Post by: kennym on June 22, 2019, 08:53:41 PM
Opposite of the air hose form...
Post by: monterey on June 22, 2019, 08:59:16 PM
The purpose is to prevent the bands from applying too much pressure along the edges and cupping the lay up. If you use the lamp cord you would glue it down the center of the pressure strip. I never did the electric cord but used rope. You also need to round the pressure strips at the edges.
Post by: Mike L. on June 23, 2019, 01:16:00 AM
Post by: pditto613 on June 26, 2019, 05:55:52 PM
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
I use a French cleat to hold my table top tools secure
Post by: kennym on July 06, 2019, 07:51:05 AM
Post by: pditto613 on July 06, 2019, 08:33:26 AM
Post by: Flem on July 06, 2019, 09:07:28 AM
Post by: BigJim on January 09, 2021, 01:24:53 PM
I use a 1" wood chisel to remove the tape off of my glass. I used to use the cheapest tape that I could buy and then use the chisel to start peeling it and then again when ever it would tear.. some times it peels, sometimes i would have to shave the tape the full length of the limb. When I switched to Bear Paw glass, I had to switch to frog tape.. so when I went back to Gordons (currently using Gordons) I just stayed with the frog tape.
I've had employees and friends do this to help me out. In over 2500 bows, i have yet to have anyone scratch the glass more than what would sand out with 220 grit. I doubt there has been more than 5 or 6 scratches the entire time.
Now, if you can't be trusted with sharp things or aren't very talented, this may not work for you.
No tricks to it, just always lay the chisel flat on the glass.
BigJim
Post by: Shredd on January 09, 2021, 01:42:41 PM
Post by: BigJim on January 09, 2021, 01:52:18 PM
BigJim
Post by: Shredd on January 09, 2021, 01:55:46 PM
Roy maybe you can get this thread up in the brown section underneath vocabulary... I think this thread should always be seen and not lost in the mix... Or make another section perhaps in green or another color of threads that stand out and or are important, that should not be lost in the mix... Maybe these threads could also be more refined and remove jokes and such as to make it easier for the person searching for info...
Post by: Shredd on January 09, 2021, 02:02:52 PM
I'm sure that works shredd, but I bet the pressure put down by the airhose will still make it stick.
BigJim
I have not really tried the method myself... Most of the time I can peel the tape off pretty easily although it does rip now and then...
By the way there was someone looking for bowyers in GA. on FB in one of the archery groups... Your name was mentioned... Possible sale for yah...
Post by: Flem on January 09, 2021, 02:03:19 PM
Post by: mmattockx on January 09, 2021, 02:08:19 PM
I'm betting that no one has the balls to try the tip i'm going to mention... I've mentioned it before and everyone cringes..
<snip>
I use a 1" wood chisel to remove the tape off of my glass.
That doesn't seem crazy to me. How sharp is the chisel? I have an old cheap chisel I use for cleaning glue squeeze out and tape off wood and it works as you say. Mine is not super sharp, though. I sharpen it to 1000 grit on the stones but don't go higher or put the secondary bevel on it. This is smooth enough and sharp enough to peel tape nicely but it doesn't have the super sharp corners to dig in and leave a groove.
Mark
Post by: pditto613 on January 09, 2021, 02:15:59 PM
Post by: BigJim on January 09, 2021, 03:51:16 PM
I started with a new one and haven't sharpened it since, but I don't use it for much else.
Most don't realize how hard it is to scratch the glass that way.
Bigjim
Post by: BigJim on January 09, 2021, 03:53:45 PM
Bigjim
Post by: Crooked Stic on January 09, 2021, 06:29:02 PM
Post by: Shredd on January 09, 2021, 07:05:19 PM
We tape up 30-40 pieces at a time and it may be a week or 6 months before the tape comes off of some..
Bigjim
Oh chit... I can see that being an issue... That tape can really get stuck on there after a period of time...
Post by: JGR1269 on January 19, 2021, 12:28:09 PM
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Post by: Bowjunkie on January 19, 2021, 12:46:27 PM
Post by: Longcruise on January 19, 2021, 01:16:56 PM
I usually just buy whatever masking tape i can get cheapest. If it ever wants to stick too good, I just warm it with the heat gun for a few seconds, and then 'lead it' with the heat gun as ya peel.... comes right off and usually brings the glue residue with it. Works for tape, stickers and such on other things too.
Seems like something to give a try.
Post by: Roy from Pa on January 19, 2021, 01:37:32 PM
Post by: Mad Max on January 19, 2021, 04:42:43 PM
I get my plywood riser template as close as possible on top of half of my stack, use masking tape in gap areas, and butter it up with smooth-on. Sometimes takes 2 times.
(https://i.imgur.com/ME08cAw.jpg)
Under the blue tap could be shorter pieces.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZiUy8j3.jpg)
Post by: Walt Francis on January 20, 2021, 12:27:41 AM
When I make a new form. I do this for all templates :thumbsup:
I get my plywood riser template as close as possible on top of half of my stack, use masking tape in gap areas, and butter it up with smooth-on. Sometimes takes 2 times.
(https://i.imgur.com/ME08cAw.jpg)
Mark,
That is a great is a great idea. I think you solved my problem with my new riser template for me.
Under the blue tap could be shorter pieces.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZiUy8j3.jpg)
Post by: kennym on January 20, 2021, 07:26:52 AM
Post by: Autumnarcher on January 29, 2021, 10:10:29 PM
Post by: Buemaker on January 30, 2021, 05:10:27 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on January 30, 2021, 05:52:18 AM
I place a tapered lam between my fence and the chunk of wood I want to cut the lam from and cut one lam off as I slide it through the saw.
Then I flip the block of wood 180 and cut off the second lam.
The lams come out already tapered and not much drum sanding is needed.
Got the idea from Ole Kenny:)
Post by: kennym on January 30, 2021, 12:06:12 PM
Use this to set thickness kinda like John does with the blocks .
It’s just a .005 taper marked every .010 “
Post by: Buemaker on February 03, 2021, 04:16:36 AM
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=154553.msg2673803#msg2673803
Post by: Autumnarcher on February 07, 2021, 10:38:12 AM
Post by: harry 62 on February 11, 2021, 01:29:58 PM
Post by: Roy from Pa on February 13, 2021, 07:19:32 AM
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
Post by: Flem on February 24, 2021, 01:11:02 PM
Heat gun does! About 30sec on high and it started to lift a tiny bit and picked off fairly easy. Its not perfect. There are definite low spots from the picking. I can live with that, high spots not so much.
Post by: Roy from Pa on February 27, 2021, 07:54:48 AM
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=154553.msg2673803#msg2673803
Post by: Buemaker on March 03, 2021, 06:08:22 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 03, 2021, 06:44:56 AM
:thumbsup:
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 05, 2021, 04:31:00 PM
Post by: Buemaker on March 05, 2021, 04:40:39 PM
https://www.jernia.no/oppussing-og-vedlikehold/maling-og-oppussing/maleredskap/sparkler/jordan-japansparkelsett-50-75-100mm/p/32772469?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxbHRzY2a7wIVFAfmCh1R7wtKEAkYASABEgL1ZfD_BwE
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 05, 2021, 04:53:17 PM
Post by: Mad Max on March 05, 2021, 05:32:16 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/fCijOQT.jpg)
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 07, 2021, 08:00:24 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 07, 2021, 08:47:32 AM
Post by: Shredd on March 07, 2021, 09:38:25 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on March 15, 2021, 06:01:57 PM
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=175282.0
Post by: Mike L. on March 27, 2021, 06:25:29 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 27, 2021, 06:37:06 PM
Post by: Longcruise on March 27, 2021, 06:46:52 PM
I clean up the edges exactly at the fades and measure across the limb to find dead center and mark it. Do it at both ends of the riser and then connect the two dots and extend those lines out to the limb tips. If they look wonky it's cause the blank is wonky. Tape the whole thing first.
I got started with that method when I was very tool and equipment deprived and since it works I keep doing it. I read here about problems with finding center but I've never had any issues with it. Strings lay right down the center of the bow.
There are surely better ways to do it but, that's just what my pea brain came up with. :)
Post by: Longcruise on March 27, 2021, 06:48:35 PM
Post by: kennym on March 27, 2021, 08:32:54 PM
And I have no idea how the limbs were off. One end must have slid sideways a bit...
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 28, 2021, 03:06:22 PM
On a one piece I run the whole bow thru the drum sander to width. Then use a small square and move it until the lines meet in the center. Mark from both sides in case it not perfect. Mark each end and the riser then string check
Post by: Longcruise on March 28, 2021, 09:26:02 PM
Post by: Mike L. on March 28, 2021, 09:43:52 PM
Post by: skeaterbait on March 30, 2021, 02:05:09 PM
Post by: Flem on April 09, 2021, 06:15:00 PM
I'm hoping this one is Maple, with lots of solid pieces and some veneer. Even on cheap pianos, the wood is selected for grain and I can usually mill a lot of lams and maybe a few risers. All the metal recycles, unusable wood gets burned and the keys are so easy to give away, I'm thinking they must be valuable. If your lucky and find an old one, on some the black keys are Ebony.
I can only take them if they can be rolled and no Grand or Baby Grand's! Which is unfortunate because they have the nicest wood
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Post by: Mad Max on April 17, 2021, 04:59:05 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/QkJOeDa.jpg)
Post by: Roy from Pa on April 17, 2021, 05:29:07 PM
Post by: Flem on April 25, 2021, 06:06:08 PM
Works for all limb angles and handle shaping.
It does need the brace. If you don't mind drilling a hole in your bench top, the post brace is solid. Another option would be a post mounted to a small base which could be clamped to the bench
Post by: Roy from Pa on April 25, 2021, 06:15:52 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on April 25, 2021, 08:19:54 PM
Post by: Flem on April 26, 2021, 12:28:29 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on April 26, 2021, 06:28:22 AM
Just call me Elly May (I love the critters)
That can be arranged.
Shall I change your screen name now to Elly May?
Someone gonna triple dog dare me?
LOL
Post by: Flem on April 26, 2021, 11:15:39 AM
Post by: pditto613 on May 13, 2021, 12:11:01 PM
Post by: pditto613 on May 13, 2021, 12:12:36 PM
Post by: pditto613 on May 13, 2021, 12:18:07 PM
Post by: Roy from Pa on May 13, 2021, 03:40:56 PM
Post by: Shredd on May 14, 2021, 12:43:24 AM
Post by: mmattockx on May 14, 2021, 10:08:37 AM
I use this sanding bow for shaping risers and limb tips. It is 1/2” pvc heated and flattened on the ends. It holds 1 x 30 sanding belts
That's a great idea. How long is the pipe to work with the 1x30 belts?
Mark
Post by: Longcruise on May 14, 2021, 12:05:04 PM
Post by: Roy from Pa on May 14, 2021, 12:14:31 PM
It goes around the pipe.
Post by: Longcruise on May 14, 2021, 01:30:08 PM
Post by: pditto613 on May 15, 2021, 03:04:37 AM
Post by: mmattockx on May 15, 2021, 10:10:05 AM
The pipe is 16”. I would cut it long then trim it to fit the tension you want on the belt. You can heat and re-bend the flats to change tension as well. Took me a couple of tries to get it right.
Great, thanks. I understand the fine tuning, just wanted a starting point to get in the neighbourhood.
Mark
Post by: kennym on May 27, 2021, 03:17:12 PM
Sunco 4' if you are interested in what kind... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Now for some ZZ TOP and Stones... :biglaugh:
Post by: Crooked Stic on May 31, 2021, 02:18:29 PM
Post by: oldandslow on August 11, 2021, 02:52:58 PM
Post by: Flem on October 02, 2021, 11:00:49 AM
I already had something in mind for my purchases.
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Mini oven! It worked really well. I had some G-10ish material I needed to cook, but I hate to get out my big oven for a 1.5" X 10" project. The heat gun was awesome, the cook time was 1hr and to maintain 180-200deg it ran for a total of 42min, at the second lowest setting available. I checked the temperature of the gun housing at the tip and it never exceeded 90deg. The ducting it's self, stayed around 80deg on the outside, which was really impressive, since it does not seem to have any insulation, just reflective properties.
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And by the way, if you have a PID controller, you can plug a heat gun into it and maintain a fairly precise temperature without having to constantly monitor the setup.
I went to the website of the ducting manufacturer to check out specs and it shows that they have ducting up to 20"
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
20" should be large enough to get a bow form into. You would likely need a more substantial heat source than a heat gun (or 2 guns?), but when its not in use it would collapse down to the size of a frying pan for storage.
Post by: Sologuy on October 12, 2021, 06:46:03 AM
Rody , don’t fergit the preacher stick , preachers never lie...
Use this to set thickness kinda like John does with the blocks .
It’s just a .005 taper marked every .010 “
Ken...can you explain this to me alittle...perhaps via email Tom
Post by: kennym on October 13, 2021, 08:00:04 AM
I know there are more accurate ways, but it works and is easy to use.
On stuff like bocote and other more expensive wood, I cut a scrap first to make sure it's right on.
Post by: Buemaker on October 27, 2021, 06:02:55 PM
Post by: Pat B on October 27, 2021, 10:57:41 PM
Post by: Buemaker on October 29, 2021, 12:04:14 PM
Post by: Shredd on January 28, 2022, 11:20:31 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XnCBdPTbhY
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on February 03, 2022, 01:03:35 PM
Post by: kennym on February 03, 2022, 07:57:01 PM
Now that would be a slick way to cut tapers!
I don't know, I think I'll keep cutting tapers on my bandsaw... :thumbsup:
Post by: Buggs on December 07, 2022, 12:49:53 PM
You can get these on the web or at pharmacies and places that sell large animal supplies. They say for oral use only and have what's called a Luer tip. But they make needles with a Luer lock fitting, so these are also handy for injecting adhesives into tiny spaces. They measure down to .1ml
I originally started using these with conversion varnish and other catalyzed paints and finishes. Real handy if you want to catalyze 2 or 3 ozs of finish and have no way to measure or weigh, .1oz of hardener. Metric system is much more useful, especially down at the small end of the scale.
Post by: Buggs on January 02, 2023, 10:55:54 PM
So I have used powder coat paint powder as colorant for epoxy in the past. It works well and you can get some interesting colors and effects. I use it often when making "G-10". I got to thinking about what would happen if the mix was baked like powder coat would be, post epoxy cure.
I don't have any high temp epoxy, so I chose this Smooth-On epoxy. Mostly because it sets fast and the recommended cure is 1hr at 200deg. Which meant I could take it straight from the cure to the powder coat oven and be half way there. It's a little old and the resin had crystalized, so I thru it on the wood stove to re-liquify.
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I mixed up a total of 12gr epoxy and 2.5gr powder, plus a pin head of black pigment. 20% powder is a lot and pigment overloading can cause cure problems with epoxy. Not that its important, but the color is a metallic bronze and with the black its very dark and impossible to see the true color in a picture. The color is a experiment also.
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So it went straight into a 400deg oven after the 200deg epoxy cure. The powder paint calls for 10min@400deg and I did not start the clock until the mix hit 400 on the thermometer gun. Don't know what was going on for those 10min, but when I took it out it was kind of rubbery. As it cooled down to room temp it became very hard, much harder than a fresh cured chunk of plain epoxy. Unfortunately I don't have any equipment to measure just how hard, so I did the scratch test and the ball bearing drop test. It took some force to scratch with a stylus, I would say similar to dense Marble. The drop test was interesting. I did a base line drop on my concrete floor and then on a granite surface plate and then the epoxy mix. The rebound was about identical for the granite and the epoxy. The concrete had less rebound as expected.
The stuff is seriously hard! I'm not sure if its any more useful than it would be un-baked. I think I will make some
G-10 scales with this method and see how it holds up
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Post by: Buggs on January 03, 2023, 01:15:59 PM
Post by: Buggs on January 04, 2023, 11:00:09 AM
I don't usually mix in glass, so I don't know if the cracking is typical. I used a small canning jar, so I know it could take the heat.
Post by: Jeff tech on January 07, 2023, 09:53:18 AM
Here is a measuring tip. I was recently gifted a large selection of dyes from an extremely nice fella and wanted to do some sample boards to get familiar with the colors. The problem is mixing tiny batches accurately for repeatable results. The solution? measure the solvent with little syringes!I use syringes also when I am mixing my Mas epoxy. It's very precise. I can use the same syringes several times before I throw away. Be sure to mark A and B
You can get these on the web or at pharmacies and places that sell large animal supplies. They say for oral use only and have what's called a Luer tip. But they make needles with a Luer lock fitting, so these are also handy for injecting adhesives into tiny spaces. They measure down to .1ml
I originally started using these with conversion varnish and other catalyzed paints and finishes. Real handy if you want to catalyze 2 or 3 ozs of finish and have no way to measure or weigh, .1oz of hardener. Metric system is much more useful, especially down at the small end of the scale.
Post by: Roy from Pa on January 17, 2023, 07:00:10 AM
Post by: Buggs on January 18, 2023, 09:12:46 AM
Both were failures! The .002" glass was so thin and lite, it was hard to cut into strips, had static cling to everything and would not, not bunch up in the form. Too bad because it would have made some dense laminate. The store cloth (3M Bondo) was a reject only because any cut edge would un-weave itself to the point where all the edges were unusable. I suppose you could spray some glue on before cutting, but it would take a lot of glue, would gum up the cutter and might impede the resin(?)
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My next experiment is going to be with the biaxial sleeve. I think it will make some nice laminate. Not much cutting since its two layers and only the ends are raw. It's not the most cost effective material, but it will lay up fast.
Post by: Buggs on January 19, 2023, 01:29:55 PM
I altered my protocol since I had not used this material before and could not be sure how well the interior of the sleeve was wet out. I used a lot more resin than normal. I also let it sit for 30min on the bench before I pressed it for 1hr at 80deg and then 1hr at 200deg. Normally I would go from 30min on bench to 200deg. I figured it could not hurt to give the resin extra time to migrate thru the matrix.
And the music for the project was; Little Feat Salin' Shoes
Post by: Pat B on January 19, 2023, 01:41:53 PM
Post by: Roy from Pa on January 19, 2023, 04:25:00 PM
Post by: Buggs on January 20, 2023, 07:35:26 AM
I wanted to add this pic
Its 1/2" white 3M, used floor buffing pad I cut up and use for bleeder/breather cloth. It soaked up a lot of resin this run and it has an interesting look to it. Reminds me of granite or some other stone. Don't know what I would pair it with, but its interesting to see all the different looks you can get with unlikely materials.
Post by: Buggs on January 20, 2023, 11:39:18 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq7CtvQLoRw
It went fast with the biaxial tubing. Also surprised how easy it is to access ytube and upload videos. I might be the only one happy about that :biglaugh:
Post by: Roy from Pa on January 21, 2023, 06:32:48 AM
Post by: Jon Lipovac on January 31, 2023, 10:46:35 PM
I took a 1/2” Baltic Birch sheet and inlaid a thin collar with a flange to fit very close to the spindle. I had my friend, that machined the collar, also machine 6 additional rings, incrementally thicker so I could grind larger or smaller offsets from my pattern jigs. These come in handy when you choose accent stripes of different thicknesses.
My normal accent stripes have been just (2).031 G10 strips. I recently did my first mosaic accent which was significantly thicker at .145
Post by: onetone on February 06, 2023, 11:14:49 PM
Here is a measuring tip. I was recently gifted a large selection of dyes from an extremely nice fella and wanted to do some sample boards to get familiar with the colors. The problem is mixing tiny batches accurately for repeatable results. The solution? measure the solvent with little syringes!
You can get these on the web or at pharmacies and places that sell large animal supplies. They say for oral use only and have what's called a Luer tip. But they make needles with a Luer lock fitting, so these are also handy for injecting adhesives into tiny spaces. They measure down to .1ml
I originally started using these with conversion varnish and other catalyzed paints and finishes. Real handy if you want to catalyze 2 or 3 ozs of finish and have no way to measure or weigh, .1oz of hardener. Metric system is much more useful, especially down at the small end of the scale.
Syringes have many uses in the shop. I use an inexpensive white plastic syringe to apply glue to arrow fletches. Keeps things neat, minimizes waste, easy to refill and lasts a couple of years. Have a high tech unit on hand for diverse applications.
Post by: Nicholi on March 06, 2023, 03:53:37 PM
Post by: Buemaker on March 18, 2023, 02:12:23 PM
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=34418.msg550892#msg550892
Post by: kennym on March 18, 2023, 02:18:18 PM
I use a light on the chrony to get consistent results . :thumbsup:
I’ve also read you should black the field tip to help .
Post by: Buemaker on March 18, 2023, 02:26:02 PM
Post by: kennym on March 18, 2023, 02:53:00 PM
Post by: Buemaker on October 16, 2023, 08:08:05 AM
Post by: Crooked Stic on December 07, 2023, 09:46:26 PM
Post by: Buemaker on November 09, 2024, 09:03:33 AM
Greetings from Bue, lazy bum smart arse. ;)
Post by: Walt Francis on December 17, 2024, 11:57:44 PM
This a 7” x 5/16 piece of medium Emory cloth (It shows better on the camera for demonstrating.).
Partially twisted
Fully twisted.
Emory cloth is used by plumbers to clean/sand copper pipe before soldering fitting and can be found in the at the box stores or plumbing supply stores. The is a huge quality difference in the cloth backing and durability between what is carried at the box stores and the plumbing stores, though the box store material will work. It works very helping to final shape the handles and fades on bows. 1” x 42” sanding belts in various grits also work but are not as flexible or as durable.
Post by: Crooked Stic on December 18, 2024, 05:03:17 AM
Post by: Kirkll on February 10, 2025, 03:00:11 PM
This system for building laminated fiberglass bows is the best I’ve come up with in 15 years. But…. There are a few details in getting set up and operation that needs to be documented here.
First of all you will need 22 gage 304 stainless steel strips that are used both top and bottom in your form. I had mine cut to 1.5” and 1.75” widths and 72” lengths prior to shipping. You want these “Cut” not sheared too. You want enough length on these strips to have about 3” sticking out of each end of your form. I purchased enough strip material to have a pair for each bow form I use. I put the bottom strip in the form and attach it permanently and leave it there. Here is the link to my supplier:
https://www.stainlesssupply.com/order-metal-online/docs/g1c1045s1ss0p0/304-stainless-steel-sheet-4-finish.htm
……..
Next you will need a fairly large battery charger that has manual settings. These are difficult to find now with all the electronic safety over ride models they have available now. The automatic ones with circuit boards will not work for what we are using this for. Look at the photo of the charger I use.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SxemPLaXwT66Ad6B6
This one below will NOT work
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC1353-Wheeled-Battery-Charger/dp/B07BVFGVQ1/ref=sr_1_21?crid=2O3KDCXISAPSA&keywords=battery+charger+automotive&qid=1642610980&sprefix=battery+charger%2Caps%2C399&sr=8-21
This manual wheel type below is what you want.
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-Manual-Wheel-Charger-Engine/dp/B08PQ28NPB/ref=sr_1_27?crid=3G7TN835WBGWC&keywords=large+battery+charger&qid=1642611374&sprefix=large+battery+chargers%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-27
OK….. once you have your brand new battery charger, you need to tear it apart and rewire the cooling fan. There is a small fan that runs on 110 volts that needs its own power source. Why? Because the battery charger is going to run off of the voltage regulator at a reduced voltage….. That reduces the voltage to the cooling fan too, and slows it way down if it doesn’t have its own power source, and….. it WILL over heat the fan and the charger, and eventually burn up…. Trust me on this one….. The only other option is to attach another fan to the battery charger body that blows cool air into it while its running. This is real important.
See the extra lamp cord I have plugged in to 110 and notice the battery charger plugs into the voltage regulator.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/T5qa6trSMqEaEx7J8
…………
Next you need a voltage regulator. This will adjust the temperature of your heat strips. Get the “10 amp” version…. The 5 amp model will be popping fuses all the time. This is what you want.
https://www.amazon.com/LVYUAN-Variable-Transformer-Regulator-110V-120V/dp/B082KYKP9P/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3PF7ACKQJN850&keywords=voltage%2Bregulator%2B120v&qid=1642611136&sprefix=voltage%2Bregulator%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-6&th=1
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sKNmmsB6kfPizvtP9
The last item needed is an accurate thermometer. There are many different types of probe thermometers out there, but I like this one the best because it has a high temp alert built into it…. I can set the alarm for 180 degrees and if the strips get too hot it alerts me and I can turn down the voltage a bit.
Here is what I use. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZyzWkz1hz3vHBVfs5
OK….. so now you have all your parts and pieces and equipment, and have a set of heat strips ready to go….You install one in the bottom of your form, wrap your bow laminations in a thin painters plastic , and put them directly on the heat strip. Then put the other heat strip directly on top of the limb and use zip ties to hold everything tight to the form. Take care to align the heat strips so they are the same length coming out of the form, and use a small clamp, or needle nose vise grips to clamp the two heat strips together on one end, and the battery charger clamps red on one strip, and black on the other. Be sure these two do not touch each other. I separate them with a scrap piece of wood lam.
Next is your air hose and button up your form. Then slip your temp probe in between the air hose and the top of the heat strip and give that hose about 20-25# of pressure. Check your lamination alignment and let it set 60 seconds before going up to 50-60#s of pressure…. No more than that is needed. I’ve laid up limbs completely using 25# before and they came out fine…. That was an ooops though… Recurve limbs need that extra pressure.
Now turn on the voltage regulator and adjust the voltage to about 40-45 volts. That is a good place to start for 2 -36” heat strips…. One piece bows with long heat strips will need more voltage, and going from 1.5” width to 1.75” width needs adjustment too. You will have to do some dry trials to establish the right settings. But what you want is the temp to slowly rise to 160 degrees in about 30 minutes and stay between 160-180 for another 20-30 minutes. I set my timer on the battery charger for one hour and its perfect every time once I have my voltage setting established. Btw…. Hot or cold temp in the shop can effect the setting a bit too.
The only other thing of note is to wait until the temp cools to 90 degrees before removing them from the form. You could easily lay up 3 sets of limbs per day with this set up.
Here are some of my bow forms I have set up.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1ihdPa5SExkyBCma7
Kirk