Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: starshooter on April 21, 2018, 12:51:10 PM
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How do I load a video of my form for evaluation?
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There are a couple of ways. You can post the video on YouTube and then link to it from your post here, or you can just click the link for attachments below the box you’re typing in, and upload a video from your computer or smart phone. When you attach a photo, you can’t actually see it until you finalize your post, and I would guess the same would be true of a video, but you can see the location in your post where the photo or video will appear.
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actually, no. because videos can run into hundreds of megs if not gigs in size, we, as with almost all online forums, do not allow them to be uploaded to the trad gang server. use any free, online video archive site as your point of upload, such as www.youtube.com
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrHRPphcibY&feature=youtu.be
This should work. I apologize for the clumsiness of uploading from YouTube. Took awhile to get to this point.Thanks
this won't work because the "&" and everything past it must be removed ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrHRPphcibY&feature=youtu.be
... to look instead like this ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrHRPphcibY
and then yer good to go!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrHRPphcibY
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star, You have a good start but!!!! you are not getting anywhere near full draw. Your string hand is releasing WAY in front of your face! Pull that string back until the string hand is on your cheek and the string is right in front of your eye, even hitting the eye brow.
Arne
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Thanks! Been a problem off and on as I was always felt that I was drawing short.
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:goldtooth: Your feeling about short drawing was correct!! :biglaugh:
Arne
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I always enjoy reading Arne's critiques of people shooting, because he does such a great job of it. Coming to full draw should help your accuracy because you can establish a consistent draw length, and also because it will get your elbow behind the arrow, which helps prevent right/left errors.
However, it will also increase the pounds you are pulling, and therefore it becomes even more important to make sure your arrow is within the weight range specified by the bowyer, as we were discussing in a different string of posts.
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looks much more like a holding weight issue ..... and if so, a classic case of "over bowing" that might be remedied by intently doing overdraw reps sans arrow, 2 or three times a day, only 5 reps for starters and build up slowly. this way, the archer gets to fit and keep the bow.
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I am of two minds over this. I am 70 yrs and sometimes think I'd be happier
With a lighter draw say around 35. I am a believer in the relaxed power . No straining. The bow actually will draw itself if done right so it seems. Wondered if string follow made it harder to go the final inch . It seems like I am stretching it
and when I release the arrow they land left of center. In fact. Some of my better
Groups (clustering like wasps in a nest)are in the upper left of target face .
Now if only I could only bring them closer to center....
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charles, what is the weight listed on yer bow?
by not coming to full draw and using yer back muscles, and having a "floating anchor", there is no consistency to the shot process.
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Exactly , that's the problem. Either 42 pounds is difficult , or I have developed a. Bad habit . I can tell you that when I relax and not stretch the arrows go to center. When I pull that last inch full expansion of chest the arrows fly left almost to a T. Arrows are too stiff? , my form collapses on the release?Either I shorten my draw to 25" or lighten my pull load to 35 lbs. Mystery.
My bow is 42#@ 26" 66" stringfollow. Thanks
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if there is any amount of struggle to get that last inch of draw length set into your back, it's a form issue due to too much holding weight.
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Bob, I spent an hour working on my draw and anchor. No there is not a struggle to reach the full draw but I think a two week regimen of pulling to full draw holding a few secs the slowly letting down maybe 5 -10 reps could possibly reorient my habits in the right direction I then stand 5yds away from target and shoot 6-7 rounds of arrows.
I need to get my camera crew back 😆and get a longer film clip of my practice. That way I can see whether I am reaching full draw.
A tripod designed to hold a cell phone.Do they exist?
What's the limit time wise of a video trailer posted on this site? Thanks!
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there is no limit to any posted video time length.
perhaps the best bow exercise is to just use the bow. keep yer form and pull past your draw length, a good inch. hold for a few seconds. do very comfortable reps, don't wanna get hurt and going slow and easy is the right process. start off with reps of only five, two to three times a day. you'll know when to *slightly* increase.
"form" - for me, that means keeping the arrow, the drawing arm, and the bow arm in continuous parallel alignment.
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The alignment of drawing arm and the elbow in line is something I get.
I have seen a number of people shoot with high elbow. Bad form? I
I find that I can pull almost to the back of the field point . Arrows are 27" bop. Aluminum 27" just need to reprogram my muscles ( hopefully).
I am putting carbons on hold for now. Don't want to destroy my bow!
I see your photo and the glasses , do they ever interfere with bow string? Thanks!
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If you’re hitting the center when you’re short drawing but hitting left at full draw, it could be something as simple as having the arrow lined up under your eye when you short draw, but pulling it out of alignment on the side of your face when you come to full draw. There are a hundred ways to miss left, but you might as well start by eliminating this one.
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The alignment of drawing arm and the elbow in line is something I get.
I have seen a number of people shoot with high elbow. Bad form?
not necessarily. we're all different, and whatever works for consistent accuracy is all that matters. however, that said, good mechanical alignment adds to efficient consistency. in particular, allowing the back muscles to do their job.
I find that I can pull almost to the back of the field point . Arrows are 27" bop. Aluminum 27" just need to reprogram my muscles ( hopefully).
I am putting carbons on hold for now. Don't want to destroy my bow!
i love woodies, and i build them, shoot them, hunt with them. however, they are no where near as consistent as carbons. with that in mind, using carbons at least for practice will mean you can't blame the arrow for a miss or poor group.
I see your photo and the glasses , do they ever interfere with bow string?
nope, never. head alignment takes care of that.
Thanks!
you are most welcome, i hope some of my jibber jabber helps you.
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I loved and love POC as well. I have been until recently shooting with Wapiti Archery tapered shafts cut to 28". I taper and fletch myself. They fly pretty straight probably due to 5" feather. Tapered shafts 11/32 -5/16 45-50# ( 50-55 when cut to 27")
I think aluminums and carbons give me better trajectory and and speed. Not romantic and they are cold to touch but at this time I am liking the speed and distance they travel by comparison.. I shoot a light bow as you know and with a short (comparitively) draw. Just want to put more aces in my hand.
Have any of you worked with a clicker? How does that work ? Any good? Thanks
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a 19/64" to 15/64" carbon will simply have a better flight coefficient than a 22/64" to 20/64" woodie. with light holding weight bows, a more streamlined feather might be of some kinda help, too.
i would highly recommend to NOT use a clicker. back in my freestyle limited and unlimited target archery dayze i used them as draw checks, and not as a command to release. these dayze of longbows, i use the back of the point as a draw check against my bowhand. maintain a push/pull back tension as the point back is touching skin, let go as need be.
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Ok , the past couple of days I have restricted my shooting to
stretching my full draw out to my anchor which is the thumb knuckle touching the corner of my mouth. How long do I hold at full draw?? I want to "fit "me to the bow What should I be working for on the time to hold at full draw ?? Mind you that I am just working on 5 -10 reps of slowly pulling to anchor , hold, amen slowly letting down.. Holding for more then 2 seconds causes me to tremble . Thanks
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hold it PAST your actual real anchor point. hold 'til it trembles, which might only be a "one thousand and one" count. you want to feel the strain but not to the point it hurts and you want to feel your back muscles working, not your arms or shoulders. draw and let down Slowly. if you can do only TWO of these long draws as a single rep cycle, so be it. this is an accumulative thing that will take days if not weeks - no fast food fixes allowed or wanted, this is a safe and sure way to increase strength and endurance - do not rush the process!
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Ok thanks
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Ok , I have been exercising my draw on my bow for the past week.
I have no problem bringing the string past my anchor point and holding for a couple of seconds. However I don't feel the isolation of back muscles . Nor do I get the concept of pulling with my back . Shoulder and tricep seem to be doing most of the work.
When I slow down on the pull I start to feel a stretch . Is it anything like reps with weights in the weight room where you do enough reps to feel the "burn"??
The back isolation is a mystery as well as the elbow shutting the door backwards.
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Thanks! One question- How do you know when you hit anchor at given draw length?
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your anchor will typically begin at the point where yer back muscles are doing the bowstring holding. this might be a surprise to someone who has a 26" draw now find it's actually over 27" ... or more.
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Wow! That introduces a whole new ball game. Does this hold for all forms of Archery?? Instinctive ( hunting) ? I started out with a fourty five pound longbow
@ 28 " draw. But found out it was extremely awkward in close shots and that I walked the string at times ( shortened the draw) so they figured whole I wasn't overboard I was overdrawing. Crazy. Maybe 27 " would be a good compromise.
All these years ...
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In the system I teach, your draw length is totally determined by how long the bones are when you get them lined up. It is not an arbitrary length or a predetermined position. Get the bones lined up, then your hand comes to your facial references, that's it.
Arne
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I will add that "walking the string " does NOT change your draw length!! Again, your draw length is determined by your body structure, NOT some predetermined draw position, if you want to be consistent.
Arne
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And YES, ALL forms of archery!!
Arne
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Is there any way I can tell if my physical structure is aligned? I am currently under the assumption that I have to stretch the back and shoulder to where I feel
the contraction in my back when holding. I can pull and hold at 28" abeit briefly.
27" feels a lot better. Does poundage influence draw length or vice versa ?i think one must be comfortable at whatever poundage and drawlength he shoots with.
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I don’t think you should determine your draw length by how difficult it is to hold at a particular draw length. You should get a lightweight bow and determine your natural drawlength as Arne and Rob describe. Then you should not use a bow any heavier than you can draw to your natural anchor and drawlength.
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Think Line up my bones, don't think activate muscles. MOVE BONES. When you do that, when the bones line up you will feel LIKE there is a let off of bow weight. IF you stack the bones from your bow hand to your string shoulder, that length never changes so your draw length never changes. IF you can change your draw lenght, you are just using muscles and will usually have an inconsistent draw length.
Arne
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Makes sense ... I am thinking target stance like my video but pull back to the corner of my mouth. Thumb knuckle . Hold a second and I should be ok. In all it sounds like a right angle body alignment to the target.. my skeletal structure should be inline bow arm through my drawing shoulder ,elbow and bow hand.
But what is this I read where the elbow tilts sideways As if shutting a door behind you??
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You have two elbows. The one on the bow side needs to be more or less vertical, so that if you were to bend it, your hand would come in to your chest rather than up toward your head. Keep it straight but unlocked.
The one on the string side is more problematic. As you have noticed, it is difficult to be aware of the back muscles directly, so we use indirect clues. One of them is to pretend you are closing a door with your bowstring elbow. If that helps, use it.
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Terry’s form clock is a permanent post at the top of this forum. It shows about as perfect alignment as is possible to get. This is what you want to strive for. If you get perfect alignment, you are more than halfway to a perfect shot. As you can see from the responses, people have been studying this for years. Take a number....
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Yeah, the form clock along with the stick figures really makes it clear to me. Pictures are wirth a thousand words as they say....
I guess I am late to the party ...
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Lining up the bones .. I stand right angles to the target , stretch my bow arm at 12
O'clock.set my bow arm up directly in line , pulling shoulder and elbow in line as well. I draw back to 26 1/2 or almost to the metal of the field point. I am not feeling the letoff as Arnie suggested. Also, I am not able to do a secondary anchor i.e. Close the door with my pulling elbow to lock my anchor .I am feeling strain on the " lavator scapulae" upper left shoulder neck junction. I don't seem to be able to pull all the way past my mouth to the jaw. Am I overbowed ?
It seems as if Iam trying to go back to compound draw which was easy to do with
Thelet off. Am I supposed to do this with traditional bow as well?? Thanks ..
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"closing the car door" is NOT a secondary anchor, it is the final execution of the shot. Sounds like you have some misconceptions which is normal when trying to learn by your self. Check out this video and my you tube videos to see what I am trying to suggest.
https://youtu.be/gjW6_60Vvp8
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMoebow1/videos?view_as=subscriber
Also do a search there for Jimmy Blackmon
Arne
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I watched the video with great interest. What I noticed
Was the the guy you were teaching was holding at full draw without effort.
He was able to learn the fundamentals of good anchor and release. Does a lighter bow help? As said before I work for a butter smooth draw almost unconscious.
Currently drawing a 40 -42 bow draw length indeterminate ( 26-27).i wish I could stop obsessing and just shoot. I am looking for that "happy spot"
That's where my DL is . Elusive for me now.
I will testify your video and work on lining my "bones" .
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In that lesson, we started with a 16# bow to get the movement required. Then Most of that lesson used his 50# bow. Using bone leverage increases one's ability to draw and hold the bow at full draw.
Don't know if you noticed, but there is a link right under the posted video that is a connection to my own videos. They MAY help too.
Arne