Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: TSHOOTER on January 06, 2019, 07:09:25 PM
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I am having issues eliminating nock high bare shafts while tuning. I'm shooting a bear SK 60" 45@28. I'm drawing 27", 3 under with FMJ .470 cut 30" with alum insert and 175 gr head. 475 gr total arrow wt. I arrived at that arrow length bare shafting and cutting down until my arrows were flying straight to my bale from 5 yards to 30 yards. I feel that the spine is correct. I have adjusted nock point up and down (double nock points) and can't get rid of nock high. However, if I pick up the string 1 inch below the nock my arrow flight is perfect. I really don't want to shoot a crawl just to get good arrow flight. Any experience/ideas with this? thanks
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I had a similar problem. I was shooting off the shelf and I could adjust the nock point up and down all I wanted and couldn't get rid of nock high. I spoke to an experienced bowyer I know and he suggested raising my brace height about an eighth to a quarter of an inch. Apparently the arrow bends in the vertical plane as well as horizontal and was probably bouncing offf the shelf. I did as he suggested and the nock high went away. Worked for me. Maybe it'll work for you
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What Jock says is true. Another thing you might try is to raise the height of the arrow rest, and of course the nock point to compensate.
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I have ran the brace height from 8.5 to 8.75. I can take it up to 9 and see if that helps. I'm running a bear weather rest and it's not showing any wear. I may try putting a piece of something under it to reduce contact. thanks
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I just noticed you mentioned the brace height is 8.5 or 8.75 inches. In spite of my earlier comment that seems a bit high. Have you tried an 8 inch BH???
Also what is your nock point set at?
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I just noticed you mentioned the brace height is 8.5 or 8.75 inches. In spite of my earlier comment that seems a bit high. Have you tried an 8 inch BH???
Also what is your nock point set at?
I have not. The bow is brand new and the factory string was 8.75. I shot it a couple days to let it settle, added string silencers, twisted it up to about 8 5/8 and shot it some more. It settled in at 8.5 inches. After some more shooting I twisted it back up to 8.75 which is where it now sets. Factory recommendations are 8-9. Current nock height is 1/2". I've tried 3/8 up to 5/8 and can't see much difference. I'm not sure what the string material is and I may twist up a new one of BCY-X and start over.
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We had a coach that would spray the sight window area with foot powder to check for arrow contact if people were getting poor flight. The stuff will show if you have unwanted contact and cleans odd pretty easily.
Something else that you may want to check is the tiller. If you get good flight with a 1" crawl but not with 3 under it's a possibility.
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We had a coach that would spray the sight window area with foot powder to check for arrow contact if people were getting poor flight. The stuff will show if you have unwanted contact and cleans odd pretty easily.
Something else that you may want to check is the tiller. If you get good flight with a 1" crawl but not with 3 under it's a possibility.
I couldn't shoot today due to weather. Ill shoot tomorrow if the wind dies down. I just now measured tiller and both limbs are the same. Thanks for the ideas. I'll follow up when I figure it out. Thanks.
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Even tiller, sounds like the bow was tillered for shooting 3 under.
A lot of bows are tillered to 1/8th negative tiller for 3 under.
Did you request it tillered for 3 under?
Like Dave said above, try adding an elevated arrow rest and tune again.
Feather rests are nice.
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I'm following this thread closely as I am having nock high issues too. I know my arrows are spined right for my setup. I tried increasing the brace height, went as much as 3/4" longer but still nock high. I have another 1/2" of brace height I can adjust up to and still be within the manufacturer's specs. I was at the minimum setting when I bareshaft tuned and adjusting the brace height did not affect the arrow left or right which was good. Still flying true center but cant get rid of the nock high. I plan to setup a fixed crawl and I've read that might get rid of the nock high. Just need time to shoot and see. Looking forward to hear results TSHOOTER comes up with to fix his nock high issue.
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Nock high is sometimes hard to get rid of.
Below is a very good video on arrow tuning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSJ6-HjPMTM&t=9s
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In my experience, (and I'm a firm believer in bare shaft tuning) nock orientation is of little consequence. Point of impact is key. Put a vertical line on your target and shoot the line with a vertical bow. Make adjustments to shaft length, point weight, or strike plate till your shafts hit that line regardless of nock orientation. Don't worry about a little nock high, remember with a typical 1/2 - 5/8" nock point, your arrow is leaving the shelf a little tail high already and has no fletching to correct it. Now Fletch one up and shoot it with a bare shaft, you should be real close.
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Thanks for the replies and suggestions guys, I'm new to the trad world and need all the knowledge I can soak in! Not trying to hijack your thread TSHOOTER, just trying to learn from it.
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Ok guys. Unable to shoot until after dark tonight. Raised brace height to 8 7/8. Checked nock height and it was only at 3/8. I previously thought it was at 1/2. So I raised it to 9/16. With the 6mm fmj it looks crazy high but it helped. I took several shots out to 15 yards and it's still a little nock high but better. I think I can live with it. I'll play around with it more in the daylight in the next few days. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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When I shot 3 under my nock point was 5/8". Now that you are getting better flight with a higher nocking point you might want to try reducing your brace height to where it was. If you still get good flight so much the better.
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A little nock high is not a problem if your bare and fletched shafts are grouping together. It is just something some of us have to live with. See Ken Becks video.>>>----> Ken
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I shoot 3 under and when I just begin to get rid of nock high my problems begin... Like others have said getting rid of a nock high position in the target can be next to impossible for some of us. Ken Beck's video is a great one on bare shaft tuning. I pay more attention to how the fletched and bareshafts are grouping in the target---if together then I move on to see how my broadheads will impact and often times find I need to make small adjustments.
Believe it or not but it is usually the fletched arrow that will tell me when I have my nock height right---when its the best I can get it I will see the feathers spinning toward the target and that's it.
You can get away with an awful lot nock high, but a low nock height position will cause you no end of headaches.
In short---I would not worry about nock high orientation---just get bareshafts, fletched, and broadheads hitting to the same place.
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I also shoot three under - I've noticed that while bareshaft tuning, finger pressure on the string hand would affect nock high/low position. Too much pressure on the index finger would result in knock high, too much on the ring finger caused a knock low. For me, even pressure on the index and middle finger, and less on the ring usually results in good arrow flight. I don't quite understand the physics behind it, but I think I remember someone here saying that when there's too much pressure on the index finger, when you release the arrow it almost drives down and bounces off the arrow rest, causing a nock high. Does that ring a bell?
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try shooting it split finger also to see if it makes any difference.