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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: oldfartfarmer on October 21, 2019, 04:11:00 PM
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when spreading out the EA-40 onto the limb parts, how much is too much?
how are you all getting a coat that's acceptable?
before sticking them onto the form
using the rubber band method
thanks
John
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I use one of those rubber/plastic auto body applicators.
Anything thin and a little flexible.
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are you just getting it wet with glue?
or a certain thickness ?
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I use a 1 1/2 putty knife using to much is better then not enough , it's hard to explain how much its kinda a hands on thing to learn ,my first couple bows did to much but it worked fine !
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I like a 1" disposable chip brush with the bristles cut down about 1/3. Then just beat it in. You can tell when the surfaces are wet out with the glue and you will never have any dry spots. For me I use a lot less epoxy than I used to when using a spreader. This is where the heat gun on low comes into play, makes it a whole lot easier to brush the stuff when it flows out. Take any recommendation from me with a grain of salt, I'm not one for following conventional wisdom.
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I use a body plastic body filler blade like Roy.
Best way I can describe it, is you want to leave a thin skim of glue on all surfaces. I want the entire surface to look wet and smooth. Any more than that is excess.
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Next one I do I’m gonna try spreading with a credit card. Well not actually a credit card :biglaugh: A hotel key, a rewards card, gift card, Roy’s driver license .....you know what I mean.
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I'm with Flem on this one... Never had a problem yet... (knock wood) I don't cut my bristles down though...
Yah gots to season yo brush first.... Mix up a little epoxy and work it good into the bristles of your brush and then wash your brush out with acetone... Let it sit for 5 hours - or 3 hours on your dashboard... Then repeat...
Make sure that you paint both surfaces well... Good lighting helps... You don't need a lot on there... just make sure both surfaces are wet out well... put a little extra at end of fades or if you think that you are gonna have problem areas...
Is this a three pc. bow???
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doing a TD Longbow,
so on the pieces that get a coat on two sides, how are you coating the second side? on the form?
or are you stacking on a bench? them moving over to the form?
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Do your stack on the bench then to the form. Shove everything tight against the butt dowell and clamp it and wrap those bands. Be sure you got plastic wrap on it first :bigsmyl: I got a box full of glass cut offs that work good for glue spreaders. Woods like walnut will soak more glue. Also I have found the actionwood veneers and stabile core needs a little more glue. So a little too much will squeeze out.
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Ooops, I forgot that step. I do prep my brushes also. Buy them in a box at HF and take a few extras out at glue up and use any excess epoxy to secure the bristles at the ferrule so those pesky fibers don't come loose. Even EA-40 wicks right in.
My inspiration, if it works for John Schulz....
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I use a piece of cut off lam thick enough not to crack. I sand it on the end to get rid of any garboo left from cutting the lam.
Lessons learned (some the hard way and some by learning from others)
Do a dry run including rubber bands.
Work on a clean surface. I tape freezer wrap down with the shiny side up.
Take your time. It's surprising how stressful it can be doing your first glue up.
Remember to tape the smooth sides of your glass!!!!!!!!
Lay all the components out in advance in the order of glue up. Make sure they are the correct components for the lay up. Be sure the tapers are going on in the right direction.
The kitchen wrap (saran wrap) seems to be a common standard but it has a mind of it's own and easily finds it's way between the lams. Waxed paper is a good alternative and much easier to control.
I'm sure I missed a few but those pop right up in my mind. Based on your shop skills exhibited so far, I think you are going to do just fine.
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THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH,
Im getting my brain-cells (whats left of them) in a semi-straight line, to do this,
I appreciate the help,
cheers
John
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Dry runs & keeping lams in the right order is always important to me ,it's saved me a lot of issues ! I use that brown butcher type paper to lay my lams on saving a lot of mess ! No rush or hurry you have a long pot life on EA-40 especially when it's cool out !
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Ah hell, it's just a glass bow:)
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Just butter up the lams, then press/scrape off the excess after they’re buttered and set a second. It allows it to soak in and then remain a thin wet layer on top without any “drying”. It’s that simple. If you’re getting a lot squishing out, you probably could’ve scraped a little more off. Hold the lam up to see a glare in the light to make sure it’s just a nice even cover with no dry spots.
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I put the EA40 on with a piece of lam or any thing with a little flex to it about an inch wide and I kinda squeegy it on and not to thick maybe a little more at the fades, but make sure all sides to be glued are wet, then take a good wall paper roller and roll it out even. The plastic I use is for covering carpet or flooring to protect it when your painting, its a little sticky on one side so no worries of it getting into lams like saran wrap that can get bunched up sometimes.
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"how much is too much?"............ try a roller, I'm gonna start using a small roller, the brush is slow and does not apply it evenly.
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Next one I do I’m gonna try spreading with a credit card. Well not actually a credit card :biglaugh: A hotel key, a rewards card, gift card, Roy’s driver license .....you know what I mean.
I’m a big fan of the hotel key method. Every one of my bows have had epoxy spread with a key I “forgot” to return.
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"how much is too much?"............ try a roller, I'm gonna start using a small roller, the brush is slow and does not apply it evenly.
As a former painter, I take umbrage with that statement :saywhat:
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You cant use too much epoxy.
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Agree with Tim. "Too much" is just extra squeeze out to deal with but as you go along you get an idea of how much is just right.
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Mighty hard to put in later if you don't get nuff...
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Yupper:)
:thumbsup:
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Mighty hard to put in later if you don't get nuff...
I can vouch for that, having done it. :)
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"how much is too much?"............ try a roller, I'm gonna start using a small roller, the brush is slow and does not apply it evenly.
As a former painter, I take umbrage with that statement :saywhat:
I have glued up hundreds and thousands of board feet of material in Cabinet shops.. etc.. mind you it was using TB3 if that makes a difference. And hands down the roller prevailed.
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:notworthy:
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Oh come on now…..…..:) disagree or agree, hard to read between the lines when not face to face.
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My first comment was tongue in cheek and I've had more than my share of contention lately, so I will politely decline your offer :shaka:
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Oh come on now…..…..:) disagree or agree, hard to read between the lines when not face to face.
It's not TB3 though. Rollers, brushes? Just complicating a simple process. Too many scraps of lams laying around for a.... ahmmm... errr...frugal person like me to sacrifice a buck and a quarter on a special tool.
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Oh come on now…..…..:) disagree or agree, hard to read between the lines when not face to face.
It's not TB3 though. Rollers, brushes? Just complicating a simple process. Too many scraps of lams laying around for a.... ahmmm... errr...frugal person like me to sacrifice a buck and a quarter on a special tool.
I realize that now, half asleep half the time. So ya TB3 is a different animal kind of off topic on my behalf.
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This place would be kinda boring without the occasional off topic. :)
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Oh yeh, just to be sure when I mentioned a wall paper roller I mean a seem roller 2" wide, just to even the Smooth On out after putting it on with a flex piece of scrap, makes it easy for me to make sure surface is totally wet and even rather than smearing it all on with a piece of scrap and me making a mess.