Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Autumnarcher on February 05, 2021, 06:50:27 PM
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I have an old Red Wing Hunter recurve, my first trad bow. While shootin it many yrs ago this happened. I never could part with it, and would like to try fixin it. The belly glass spit and delammed along the string groove at the tip. My tought was clean it up, get some smooth on down in there and clamp it then sand/file any residual glue out. You fellas think it would hold, or should I just keep it a wallhanger? [ You are not allowed to view attachments ] [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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Sounds like it has some strong sentimental value. I would personally rebond it to make it look nice and keep it as a wall-hanger. Thank crack will most likely spread without an overlay to bypass the damage.
Alternatively, you could probably peel that strip of glass off and replace it without too much trouble. You would need to reverse engineer a form for it though.
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I would glue it down good and after cleaning it up I would wrap it with thin string serving and super glue.
I would take it out to shoot every now and then, Be sure to use a B-50 string to shoot with, so it doesn't hit brace so hard when you shoot. :thumbsup:
(https://i.imgur.com/hqPoNLL.jpg)
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This is a prime example of the Y groove failing . I have seen the string cut right down thru the limb at the Y groove. Weakens that area.
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:thumbsup: stic
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Hey Autumn I would strip and redo the glass. I have reglassed MANY bows. Take a heatgun and go back and forth over the tip while trying to lift the glass from the very end with a razor blade. When it gets warm enough it will lift then chase it down the limb with heat and razor. You will be amazed how easily it peels off once started. Measure the thickness with your calipers and duplicate. The hard part may be to build a form to add the new glass to.
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Take my suggestion with a grain of salt, but I would clean up both surfaces and clamp it down with EA40 using a short mini form copied from the other end. When it's cured, clean it up and use the same mini form to clamp an overlay onto face side and fill the old string grooves at the same time. Shape and file new grooves.
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I like longcruise's idea.
What is that core lam in there, looks corrugated?
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I think thats a woven FG lam Roy and youre seeing the imprint on the glue. I like longcruises idea better - :bigsmyl:
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Errr I mean woven belly glass...
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Ok, that's two in agreement. Remember, we share the blame. :bigsmyl:
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I never said that Mike:)
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I never said that Mike:)
Oh sure, back out on me. :tongue:
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Thanks for all the replys. I'll kick it around a while yet before deciding what to do. I may just glue it down enough with some smooth on so that piece doesnt snag something and break off, and return it to wallhanger status. I do not want to overly change the appearance of the bow, was hoping a simple fix but I figured all along its days were done. Been looking for another one for some time, almost impossible to find a lefty. I do not shoot recurves much anyway, I'm a longbow guy but I love the old Wing Recurves. Its been split for about 20 yrs, so no rush.
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I know this is 1 1/2 yrs old.
However, I had the same issue on an American Archery Cheetah recurve I picked up last week. The tips on one end had been repaired before, the core looks fine. So, I cleaned up the area, heated a little to pull back the glass and recleaned/sanded and used epoxy to make the repair. Clamped overnite and didn't mess with it for 24 hrs. Just restrung after wrapping wool around the string to fit the limb grooves. Super quiet and no issues at this time. I will follow up should I see any issues with this repair. Other than the tip delam the bow is in excellent shape. If the core is in fact fine this should be a repair that lasts.
Just rechecked repair and noticed delamination below the repair, starting to come apart. It's not gonna work.
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From what I know, when it's on the belly side, it's an underlay. But yeah along with the rest, either heated and peel it off and re-glass it. It. Or glue it down and do an underlay. I would probably if I had the time and want to. Heated up and reglass the belly side. JF
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Well, this is all new to me. I've repaired boats with epoxy/glass, but not recurves. I could easily remove the glass from the limb, but not sure how how I could apply pressure to reglue new belly.
I am looking for a bowyer that messes with these old bows, near Houston would be great.
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Take my suggestion with a grain of salt, but I would clean up both surfaces and clamp it down with EA40 using a short mini form copied from the other end. When it's cured, clean it up and use the same mini form to clamp an overlay onto face side and fill the old string grooves at the same time. Shape and file new grooves.
I would 2nd this repair, only i dont think a form would be necessary. I'd just use some masking tape and spring clamps in about 3 locations. If you used small C clamps i would go real easy on the pressure applied. just enough to close the gap and hold it there.
Those Y shaped string groove are bad for doing that..... Stick with a single groove below the loop. Kirk
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Take my suggestion with a grain of salt, but I would clean up both surfaces and clamp it down with EA40 using a short mini form copied from the other end. When it's cured, clean it up and use the same mini form to clamp an overlay onto face side and fill the old string grooves at the same time. Shape and file new grooves.
I would 2nd this repair, only i dont think a form would be necessary. I'd just use some masking tape and spring clamps in about 3 locations. If you used small C clamps i would go real easy on the pressure applied. just enough to close the gap and hold it there.
Those Y shaped string groove are bad for doing that..... Stick with a single groove below the loop. Kirk
Let me make sure, remove glass belly and clean up both core and glass, and reglue with enough pressure to avoid gaps? Fill y string groove. That pretty much it?
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I wouldn't remove the glass at all, just clean it up by blowing the dust out, and use a bit of acetone to wash out the crack where it comes back into the limb.... let it dry real good or use a heat gun before gluing the glass back to the limb.After that has cured..... THEN sand the top of the glass including the Y sting groove with 80 grit, and use smooth on epoxy to put an overlay on it..... Same procedure using masking tape and spring clamps to get it tight. When filing the new string groove just use a straight groove below the loop area and just sand through the overlay to the glass. like this
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Note* if you mill that overlay at about ..60-.80 thick and feather sand it from .60 to nothing before you glue it on, its much easier to sand out a clean transition from the overlay to the glass. .02 worth Kirk
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Ok, I'm rethinking this thing. TY!!! :thumbsup:
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Something to consider with these old bows is that they might not have been glued up with epoxy. It was not used exclusively like it is these days and this could be especially true with any bow laid up with woven glass.
Epoxy compatibility with a variety of old adhesives could be a problem.
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This bow is from 65-67 best I can tell. I have made contact with an old school bowyer who says it's fixable. I have to ship.
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You have any pictures Stan?
What did you use for epoxy on your repair?
You did not say if your bow has a split in the glass, like the OP's. Should be able to tell with some magnification.
If not, you might have a bigger problem. Like glue failure, if as you say the de-lamination is traveling down the limb.
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You have any pictures Stan?
What did you use for epoxy on your repair?
You did not say if your bow has a split in the glass, like the OP's. Should be able to tell with some magnification.
If not, you might have a bigger problem. Like glue failure, if as you say the de-lamination is traveling down the limb.
And that's a concern I have with any repair at this point. I'm 50/50 to bite the bullet and give it a go by shipping it out and see what happens or trashing the whole thing. It just seems fixable to me. I have photos but havn't messed with posting them. If I do it'll be on another thread. I've torpedoed this one enough. :biglaugh:
I used gorilla 2 part 5 min epoxy. It's holding
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In the future, I would stay away from 5min epoxy for long term repairs. I have found that quick epoxy's and others that are not 100% solids start out brittle and get worse with age. I would not use EA-40 either, it's really thick and will not flow into tight spaces. A thin epoxy, heated and applied to a heated surface will naturally wick into any voids.
Still don't know if your bows glass fractured or splintered or just de-lam-ed?
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Still don't know if your bows glass fractured or splintered or just de-lam-ed?
I'm not sure what's going on with the fiberglass. It appears to have delamed. I have another referral near Houston I've reached out to for an opinion on what's the best way to approach this problem. If he responds with an interest I'll take bow to him. I just started picking these old bows up and have a great desire to pass them on to grand kids. This is the only one (out of 6 purchased) that I've had any problem with at all.
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From what I know, when it's on the belly side, it's an underlay. But yeah along with the rest, either heated and peel it off and re-glass it. It. Or glue it down and do an underlay. I would probably if I had the time and want to. Heated up and reglass the belly side. JF
Where on earth did you come up with that definition? An “Underlay” ??? The term underlayment is used as a flooring base used under carpet. Typically partial board. But I’ve never heard this term used in any other context.
regardless of which side of the limb or riser it goes on , belly or back, these are still overlays. :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Now the layer below the overlay could be considered and underlayment I suppose….
I did not notice how old this thread was…. I wonder if he ever got it fixed and if it held up?
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I would not use EA-40 either, it's really thick and will not flow into tight spaces. A thin epoxy, heated and applied to a heated surface will naturally wick into any voids.
Hey Buggs, You would be surprised what you can do with EA 40 and a heat gun. That stuff thins down nicely with heat. i put my two parts in a microwave prior to mixing and it will liquify the resin in 15 seconds in the winter when its cold. i only use 10 seconds in the summer weather..... after mixing it, applying the heat strips in the form liquifies it again right before it starts to kick off.
granted.... a thinner epoxy has its place, and may be easier to use than EA 40....But for flexibility after curing smooth on is hard to beat. Kirk
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I'm with you on the heat, Kirk. I like to have the heat gun in one hand and the spreader in the other when applying epoxy. But for repairs where you are needing to get the stuff into spaces you cant access with tools, a warm thin epoxy is going to wick better than warm EA-40.
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Yup… I agree with you on that one Buggs…. Same goes for the thin grade superglue. For hair line cracks in wood, that stuff is incredible. I’ve fixed some checking issues in risers with thin superglue that did an excellent job. but it really isn’t flexible enough for doing a limb repair in an area that is going to see much flexing. Kirk
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Sounds like I have 2 methods here. I've ordered loctite 420 and syringes, which I have researched. But, the EA-40 can be warmed enough to flow as well? I think I can introduce some acetone and maybe sandpaper a little between glass and core to roughen up the edge of the delamination area at least.
Then I can use the EA-40 to overlay the tips, correct? All this for a $150 bow!
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Then I can use the EA-40 to overlay the tips, correct? All this for a $150 bow!
Be a hell of a lot more if you have to pay someone to do the repair. :tongue:
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Then I can use the EA-40 to overlay the tips, correct? All this for a $150 bow!
You can use the EA 40 for replacing tip overlays too, but I prefer super glue for those. Mostly for easy of application.
But….You need not replace the tip overlays on that repair if you don’t want too. Just file the new grooves, and be sure and round them over nice and clean into the belly side of the limb. Kirk