Post by: Mike L. on February 12, 2021, 12:49:51 AM
The lignum bled oil everywhere and turned brown again. Didn’t see it coming. So should I wipe it off with mineral spirits and put it back under the lights? Is the green color ever coming back? Also what about the glue joints? They seem solid but that oil pooled up all over. Wonder if it compromises the bond. Anybody have some thoughts?
Post by: Mike L. on February 12, 2021, 12:51:44 AM
Oops. Meant to send this one too.
Post by: Mad Max on February 12, 2021, 08:33:28 AM
After you finish the bow is when you should use UV light.
I don't know anything about the wood you have
Post by: Flem on February 12, 2021, 08:46:12 AM
Post by: Buemaker on February 12, 2021, 08:52:00 AM
Post by: Shredd on February 12, 2021, 09:31:43 AM
Post by: Shredd on February 12, 2021, 09:35:36 AM
Post by: Mad Max on February 12, 2021, 10:25:56 AM
Post by: Mike L. on February 12, 2021, 12:16:19 PM
Post by: garyschuler on February 12, 2021, 12:34:55 PM
But you don't know until you try. Definatly would cure at room temp of low heat.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
They said you can't make a bow out of OS Bamboo flooring, thats been debunked!
Post by: Mike L. on March 02, 2021, 11:03:18 AM
It was recommended not to cure the glue so hot to avoid bringing out the oil. Do you guys think I should use lower heat or no heat and 24 hour cure? I’m using a fire hose press and silicon heat strips. I usually rough up gluing surfaces and then wipe down with denatured alcohol prior to gluing. Would acetone be better?
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Post by: Flem on March 02, 2021, 11:54:20 AM
What happened to your other glue-up?
Post by: Mike L. on March 02, 2021, 12:06:21 PM
Post by: Mike L. on March 02, 2021, 12:07:40 PM
Post by: kennym on March 02, 2021, 12:26:17 PM
My hunting bow (til January this year ) I used for 5 years and cured with no heat on it, 24 hours at 70 ish in shop just to see. No probs...
Post by: Mike L. on March 02, 2021, 12:42:48 PM
Post by: Mike L. on March 02, 2021, 12:43:31 PM
Post by: Flem on March 02, 2021, 12:46:11 PM
Would denatured alcohol be a problem, do you think?
Not on most woods, but I would not risk using even a mild solvent like denatured on oily woods.
Post by: kennym on March 02, 2021, 12:48:53 PM
I know a lot of folks run in the 50-60 range
Post by: Mad Max on March 02, 2021, 01:27:44 PM
Post by: Mike L. on March 02, 2021, 04:07:20 PM
Post by: Crooked Stic on March 02, 2021, 04:23:08 PM
Post by: kennym on March 02, 2021, 05:53:15 PM
Post by: Mike L. on April 20, 2021, 04:14:06 PM
Post by: Shredd on April 20, 2021, 06:10:24 PM
Post by: kennym on April 20, 2021, 06:27:16 PM
Post by: mmattockx on April 20, 2021, 08:09:54 PM
Mark
Post by: rainman on April 21, 2021, 08:12:31 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on April 21, 2021, 08:17:59 AM
Post by: Mad Max on April 21, 2021, 08:37:06 AM
Post by: Flem on April 21, 2021, 09:05:31 AM
Post by: Mike L. on April 21, 2021, 09:47:12 AM
Post by: Tim Finley on April 23, 2021, 10:25:58 AM
Is the mango you are using in the handle stabilized, mango is not a very strong wood .
Post by: Mike L. on April 23, 2021, 12:21:03 PM
There are mixed opinions as to whether or not acetone improves or inhibits bonding of resinous woods. The way I understand it, anything that takes oil off of the surface of a wood and evaporates is going to pull moisture from the surface, which does cause oil/resin to migrate until it reaches stasis. It makes sense to me that oils migrating to the surface while the bond is curing could compromise the bond, but I imagine there are situations where there is too much resin on the surface for the glue to form bonds, and then it would be better to wipe it off.
I’ve done both with ea40. I used to wipe everything down with denatured alcohol, mostly because I worry about dust and oils from my hands interfering with a clean bond. The only pieces I’ve had come apart so far with ea40, though, are a couple of overlays on curves that probably didn’t have enough pressure.
The concern I had in this case was the amount of resin that was drawn out by the heat was surprising; the lignum had been dark green when I started, and afterward all the color had leeched out of it, and the resin formed puddles at the bottom of the oven, and even that bond held up. I did my best to test it, but only time will tell. I glued the rest of it at 120, and didn’t see any resin.
Post by: Crooked Stic on April 23, 2021, 01:55:33 PM
Post by: Mike L. on April 23, 2021, 02:11:37 PM
Post by: Mike L. on April 23, 2021, 04:03:05 PM
Post by: Buemaker on April 23, 2021, 05:50:54 PM
Post by: BigJim on April 27, 2021, 08:01:57 AM
The pool of "Oil" is most likely because the wood was too wet. If you used smoothon and the glue joint fails, it is due to moisture and not oil... Oily woods aren't the issue, but wet woods are. I have built countless bows out of very oily woods without the first failure due to oils.
Vera is more green than lignum, but once sanded they go back to a carmel color. Works like osage. If you want the green, you would complete the bow shy finish. Then allow to sit or introduce UV and it will green up again in time. It will likely continue to turn dark as it ages even after finishing.
Do as you will, but I would never put acetone on wood. I don't believe it hurts it since the oil isn't the issue. Moisture in wood is the real issue and too many just don't know what they are dealing with... me either at times. Not easy to tell, especially in the hard woods.
BigJim
Post by: Flem on April 27, 2021, 10:36:57 AM
This thing worked out pretty well, by the way. I set it up when I was making a chess set with katalox, which is cream colored when cut or sanded, but gradually turns into a deep chocolate brown. I had to return a couple of pawns, and it was taking quite a bit of time to catch them up to the other pieces, I kept putting them out in the sun. Then I found out that they use these UVA bulbs to age wood used to make violins, and bought a ballast. The pipe is like a sheet metal stove pipe I got at Home Depot. It only took about an hour under the lights. I have been fascinated by the woods that change colors.
Thats a great idea :thumbsup: What other woods have you "tanned"?
Post by: Mike L. on May 01, 2021, 05:57:36 PM
Post by: Mike L. on May 01, 2021, 06:01:52 PM
Post by: Mike L. on May 07, 2021, 03:22:48 PM
This one turned out pretty good as well. It’s a little thinner than the other one and I’m not sure I like the finger grooves in the back overlay; I wanted to try it, but it’s one of those things where you gotta know when to stop. Also, these were the first two where I kind of gave up on the tillering tree that was confusing me. Someone said something about the tiller being built into the design of the fiberglass bows, so I did what Kenny shows in one of his build along and marked increments along the limb and compared width top to bottom. Then hand sanded them to match. I used a limb profile template instead of connecting two dots and that made the second one a lot easier to get right.
One thing that surprised and kind of confused me; the Australian walnut on the belly, I had dyed it green to match the lignum and rattlesnake skin. Under the glass it looks completely brown, like it was never dyed at all. The only thing I can think of is that when I started the heat strips, it went a few minutes without the thermocouple between the heaters, which causes the temp controller to run away. I did that once and in less than an hour it was close to 400 degrees, totally destroyed the bow. This time it was only 5 minutes or so and it reached about 260 to 280 or so before I caught it. Took a few minutes to cool down. It doesn’t seem to have affected anything, but I thought maybe the heat affected the color of that veneer. Although that was my first time using the dye (water based from Bingham’s).
Post by: Longcruise on May 07, 2021, 05:00:30 PM
Post by: Mike L. on May 12, 2021, 06:16:38 PM
Post by: Flem on May 13, 2021, 10:22:01 AM
I was able to get most of the glue chipped off this way, and a little sliver of tape that was left under the glue. It worked pretty good, thank you for the suggestion. It still looks a bit sloppy to me compared to some of the bows I’ve bought from pros, but it may be fine after pre-finish sanding and clear coat.
If it looks sloppy before finish, it's likely to look worse after. Finish for me it only amplifies mistakes.
Might want to fuss with it some more. Finish sucks to remove!
Post by: Roy from Pa on May 13, 2021, 10:31:26 AM
Post by: Badlands on June 07, 2021, 03:55:59 PM
Post by: Badlands on June 07, 2021, 03:57:05 PM
Post by: Mike L. on June 07, 2021, 05:14:09 PM
Post by: Badlands on June 07, 2021, 05:21:52 PM
Post by: kennym on June 07, 2021, 05:27:23 PM
Post by: Badlands on June 08, 2021, 08:57:26 AM
Post by: Flem on June 08, 2021, 09:40:46 AM
Post by: Badlands on June 08, 2021, 09:49:40 AM
I couldn't agree more. It is always fine until hunting season when I start wearing a glove.
I even have the checkering tools but I'm afraid I'll mess it up.
Post by: kennym on June 08, 2021, 10:39:33 AM
Post by: Flem on June 11, 2021, 08:36:56 AM
Flem,
I couldn't agree more. It is always fine until hunting season when I start wearing a glove.
I even have the checkering tools but I'm afraid I'll mess it up.
I know the feeling! I have some G-10 that I want to checker, but have been putting it off for fear of an irreparable screw-up :scared:
Post by: Badlands on June 14, 2021, 10:05:52 AM