Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Shredd on May 21, 2021, 07:41:06 AM
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Being that I been shooting more and possibly getting into competitive archery I think I should give myself every advantage I can get to being more accurate... I decided it's time to build myself a target bow...
Some of you were right, a recurve can be just as accurate as a long bow I was hooked on the tale that a long bow is more forgiving and thus more accurate... I been shooting my recurve... It has a much smoother draw, which is pleasant to use and I been hitting the mark with it, so I will be using those limbs on this new endeavor... Plus with the added 6 to 8 fps the flatter trajectory will be a bonus...
Question: With the smoother draw than my long bow the draw weight actually feels lighter than my longbow... Do you think I can go a pound or two heavier and not over bow myself?? Remember this is a target bow and I need to be totally comfortable to be accurate... Which, I am on the edge at 40#...
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Remember this is a target bow and I need to be totally comfortable to be accurate... Which, I am on the edge at 40#...
If you want to be more accurate, drop down in weight a few pounds, not go up in weight, and make the bow longer and completely center shot.
A lighter bow with a lighter arrow will give you a flat trajectory just as well as a heavier bow with a heavier arrow.
You aren't getting any younger... :wavey: :laughing: :thumbsup:
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Thanks Royster...
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I would go down in lbs . If you are on the edge at 1 shot what is it going to be after 60 shots.
What kind of target archery are you thinking about .
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longer Recurve 68"
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What I mean by on the edge is I can handle 40# pretty comfortably for about a 100 shots or so... But if I went up a couple lbs. I think I would struggle a little...
I am only familiar with 3D now but I am open to other kinds of archery...
I was talking to a guy on FB who is a really good shot... He practices with all poundages of bows... Lighter bows to refine his release and I Would guess heavier bows for strength... I am thinking of taking this approach but no more than a 45 to 47# bow... Don't need to be hurting myself... :)
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Listen up here buttercup....
Does 60, "SIXTY", ring a bell?:)
That is OLDER than dirt...:)
And it only gets worse, ask me:)
Make a 66" to 68" longbow or recurve @ 38# and make it center shot.
Get some Goldtip Ultra light carbon shafts in either 600 or 700 spine and they will fly light bullets...
Put on 3 inch feathers at a slight helical, I don't think too much of guys who shoot vanes:) :laughing: :laughing: :wavey:
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Question: With the smoother draw than my long bow the draw weight actually feels lighter than my longbow... Do you think I can go a pound or two heavier and not over bow myself?? Remember this is a target bow and I need to be totally comfortable to be accurate... Which, I am on the edge at 40#...
You want a longer, heavier bow with the smoothest draw possible. I agree with Roy that making it full centershot is a good idea. If they are legal for what you are doing then use stabilizers as well. Basically you want to end up as close to an Olympic recurve as your rules will allow.
If you want to draw a heavier bow there are bow exercises that will help your strength and endurance. If you look up Jake Kaminsky on youtube his channel has videos on strength training, form, and lots of other aspects of target archery.
Mark
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I made a mock-up riser out of a 2x4 to see how the limbs would look at brace and at 28" draw... The limbs are a hair on the straight side but since the bow is so long, down the line I may be making a set of limbs with a 1" to 2" longer butt wedge to make a shorter snappier limb Or I can shorten the limbs an inch or shim them... The riser is 20" long and 12*... Bow is 68" ntn... Limbs come in about 39.5# at 28".... The bow in the pic is at 7 1/2" brace...
Tip... No matter how careful you think you are and if you are only gonna to string up the bow for a few seconds to take a peek at it... Always, always install some side keepers on your mock-up riser... How do I know this?? I am an expert in the unpredictable scissor bow... :goldtooth:
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:thumbsup:
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Lookin good Rich. Great string angle , should reduce finger pinch ...
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I like it..
down the line I may be making a set of limbs with a 1" to 2" longer butt wedge to make a shorter snappier limb
That will make her quicker for sure, that is how my bear take down is, a 25" riser and short limbs.
https://youtu.be/qRSUaiUwlQI
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It's called the Bue effect... :)
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Nice bend Rich,
can you snap a pic of it sitting on the tree unbraced?
thanks
edit: are these the limbs? https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=172648.msg2922268#msg2922268
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I thought should add this for those who are not up to date...
The Bue Effect is when you have a longer bow with shorter, snappier limbs...
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Ah thanks for the clarification, Rich.
I thought BUE stood for your "Bows Usually Explode"
:wavey: :laughing:
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Groves Spitfire recurve 69", Long heavy riser
(https://i.imgur.com/EDh8Alt.jpg)
"""Groves recurves swept competitions around the world"""
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Nice..
That yours?
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Nope :tongue:
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I cut the riser 1/8" past center, after sanding I might remove another 1/32"... Do you think that is enough?? I didn't want to take too much stock off the window area... I always round off that area somewhat... I plan to go without a strike plate to keep the arrow as center as possible... I will just put a couple of extra coats of finish there... Is that ok?? or do you guys prefer something soft there to act as a button?? Or should I plan to install a button?? That will take me off center though, or is that ok??
I am familiar with target bows but not all the small details and tricks to shooting an arrow straight...
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A plunger button will be the optimal for tuning and accuracy.
When setting up a button, you adjust it so the tip of your arrow is a tad to the left of the string when looking down the arrow from the nock to the point. Then you can adjust the button in or out and adjust the spring tension for even better flight and accuracy and it will most likely end up the button depresses into an almost perfect center shot alignment.
I've played that game and it doesn't get any better than that.
Read the entire article, the proper arrow tip segment is further down the page there.
https://texasarchery.org/files/pdfs/TuningForTens.pdf
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But does my bow need to be a 1/4" or so past center so the button can stick out and so my arrow is centered??
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Yes it does.
https://texasarchery.org/files/pdfs/TuningForTens.pdf
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My bear take down 1971 model.
This is the most simple accurate setup I've ever shot. The flipper rest is magnetic...
My Martin compound converted to and ILF bow. The flipper rest is magnetic.
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you can cut the site window down to .700 at the arrow shelf.
I've made some 1/4" past center.
Make your riser blank wider and leave a hump on the right side of the riser for right hand shooters
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Or you can go to a shoot wif a Bow you like to make and kick there a$$ wif out sites or plunger :thumbsup:
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :laughing:
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Thanks guys... Wow if I install one of these plungers I'll never miss... :laughing:
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You will be amazed, I promise.....
All those Olympian shooters can't be wrong:)
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I here yah Bro... But this riser is already cut out...
I think for this first bow I will go without a plunger... Maybe my next bow I will cast a riser out of aluminum and go with a plunger...
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:thumbsup:
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Nice bend Rich,
can you snap a pic of it sitting on the tree unbraced?
thanks
edit: are these the limbs? https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=172648.msg2922268#msg2922268
Here yah go Willi... I put the pic with the other pics...
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Here is the riser roughed out...
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:thumbsup:
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She is starting to shape up... I know, I know.... Looks the same as last pic.. I been working alot... Hoping to finish shaping tomorrow and shoot it by saturday...
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You been watching that YouTube vid about making a bow out of a coat hanger? :laughing:
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OH Mike...
I been wanting to say that for a few days, but didn't wanna whizz Shreddy off:)
:laughing:
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I'm having a De ja vu... :laughing:
Laugh now, but when I bring home another Gold, who's gonna be smiling... :goldtooth: Yah all said make it heavy... I am making it is heavy as I can with a lot more weight at the ends of the riser to stabilize it more... I am definitely a person that's more about function than looks...
This thing is gonna be bada$$, funky, old western, retro, wild wild west tv show kinda Cool... :thumbsup: :laughing:
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Déjà vu describes that uncanny sensation you've already experienced something, even when you know you never have.
Hope ya have a good one, Rich:)
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Yeah... I coulda sworn someone mentioned this somewhere else back in time... ;)
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All excited... I go out to shoot my bow just to remember that I don't have a string for it... Bummer...
Roy... Did you know that the Olympic archers shoot vanes??? :thumbsup:
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Roy... Did you know that the Olympic archers shoot vanes??? :thumbsup:
Ouch, shots fired. :archer2:
Mark
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Roy... Did you know that the Olympic archers shoot vanes??? :thumbsup:
Ouch, shots fired. :archer2:
Mark
:biglaugh: He tries but he don't get too far...
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All excited... I go out to shoot my bow just to remember that I don't have a string for it... Bummer...
Pretty dumb going out to shoot without a string, yet you can decipher a DFC?
Roy... Did you know that the Olympic archers shoot vanes??? :thumbsup:
I don't watch the Olympic archers because they shoot vanes.
There is a reason this is called Trad Gang...
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I simply forgot to make the string for it... If you never forgot something and wanna call that dumb... Go right ahead... But not as dumb as writing in yellow so you can hardly decipher the words... :biglaugh:
Trad Gang?? You sportin' a black leather jacket and go around terrifying old ladies?? :laughing:
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Ok vane shooter...
:biglaugh:
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This target shooting stuff is all in Vane, Roy.... :biglaugh: It seems to be getting harder instead of easier... You really have to concentrate and try hard to make smaller groups...
Here are a couple of pics.... I was not shooting well today... My friday started wed. and I have not shot for a week... But I managed to pull these groups off at 20yds...
It's hard to see because of the background but that arrow was a Robin Hood... A true Robin Hood... That arrow was pretty damn close to center... I am taking that as a Good Omen...
So far I like her and I like how she looks... She has good heft and is a stable shooting platform... Weighed in at 39#... I might take some off the last half of the limbs and bring her down to 37 to 38#... The whole bow weighs in at 3lb. 7oz.... I might look for a solid brass ornament to attach just south of the grip for added weight...
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Trouble loading pic came out twice...
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Pics of your bow por favor?
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That's very good shooting Rich.
:thumbsup:
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My target bow:)
(http://i.imgur.com/f34GXlS.jpg) (https://imgur.com/f34GXlS)
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Nice what are the specs on it?? Did you make it??
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(http://i.imgur.com/UZ5o7Jp.jpg) (https://imgur.com/UZ5o7Jp)
(http://i.imgur.com/2Kh4fmX.jpg) (https://imgur.com/2Kh4fmX)
Kinda made it out of a wheel bow:)
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Specs..??? Weight, length, BH...
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I like yer pic there Grandma. :biglaugh:
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Here yah go onetone... I'll post all the pics when I finish it...
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Looks like it has balls....
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Yeah it’s well hung. Just goofing wid ya Shredd. :biglaugh:
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Rich what's the concept with how the limbs are sitting on the end of the riser?
Never seen anything like that.
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Rich what's the concept with how the limbs are sitting on the end of the riser?
Never seen anything like that.
Yeah, looks like there's some sort of roller under the wedges.
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Yeah, looks like there's some sort of roller under the wedges.
Yup prolly a wheel, LOL
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Yes... It's something I developed to keep my limbs stable... I call it LLS... It's actually quite simple how it works... Would you guys like me to explain it to you??
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Looks like it has balls....
I think Shredd has been watching too many Celtic dance music videos.
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Riddle me this
If you have a loose screw, put 2 in your tiller tree to hold your bow
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Yes... It's something I developed to keep my limbs stable... I call it LLS... It's actually quite simple how it works... Would you guys like me to explain it to you??
Heck yeah, let muddy the waters 💧as much as possible. 😀
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Riddle me this
If you have a loose screw, put 2 in your tiller tree to hold your bow
Then you have two in the tree and none in the bush?
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Sure Rich explain it and close up pictures.
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Riddle me this
If you have a loose screw, put 2 in your tiller tree to hold your bow
Roy it's 2 screws in the tiller tree and to hold the bow for pictures.
The round part on the ends of the riser are to add weight to the bow
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LOL, anyone can see that:)
It's mess wif Rich Tuesday:)
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I thought you needed glasses
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Sure Rich explain it and close up pictures.
Actually Mark just did... LLS is short for AGLLS... Which means Anti Gravitational Limb Leveling System... It would be much too complicated for you to understand... :laughing:
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Ah so it's screw supports...
Figures ye'd screw something up..
:laughing:
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Seems like it is mess with Rich every day... :tongue:
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If I didn't like you I wouldn't mess with ya.
But you are pretty easy to crank up.
:laughing:
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As I was finish sanding the riser and the beauty of the wood grain was coming through, I couldn't help but think to myself that this bow was gonna be special... Not so much that it is gonna be unique and different but something special... :goldtooth:
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:thumbsup:
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I’m sure it will be a good one. :)
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Thanks Bro...
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As I was finish sanding the riser and the beauty of the wood grain was coming through, I couldn't help but think to myself that this bow was gonna be special... Not so much that it is gonna be unique and different but something special... :goldtooth:
I don't know if you name your bows, but considering how you feel about this one, maybe Edward?
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No... I don't... Okay... I'm game... Why Edward???
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Nothing?
How about Kay?
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Or Katie:)
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Ok... Maybe I'll name her Stephanie... After the grandmother that I adopted... Her husband, ol' Joe passed a few years back at 97... She is 100 and is now in a nursing home... I feel she does not have long to go... Her spirit could live on through my bow...
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Ran the bow through the chrony today... After tillering and such... Bow came out to 37.5#... Here are the results... I have a 29" draw and may be shooting the 313gr. / 600 spine arrows with fletchings for competition... (cause Roy told me) :) The bow came in a little light... I can shim them to get 39# and or I will make another set of limbs at 39 to 40# and since it's such a long bow I will lengthen the power lam by about 1 to 1 1/2" which may give me another 4 fps... ( the Bue Effect) :)
37.5# 28" 29"
407gr 180 188 fps 10.8 gpp
380 187 194 10.1 gpp
313 200 208 8.35 gpp
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Those are some quality numbers.
Mark
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X2 on those numbers.
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Very good Shredd. Should perhaps have Cody Greenwood test it, that is if you want to market it. Would be kind of official then.(not sure if that is the right way to say it in English)
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Very good Rich..
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Thats Zippy for sure! Is the 37.5#'s @ 28" or 29" draw?
Stephanie is a good one :thumbsup: Special bow needs a name :saywhat:
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Thanks, Gents...
Flem, 28"...
Bue, yes... I want to get another bow out to him... I have one that shoots 191 to 192 fps but I want to send him a faster one to be top dog in as far as speed and I am working on quietness also... That means 196 fps... Just have not had enough time to work on it... I did get some enquiries from people that saw his site... One or two sales but most were window shoppers and tire kickers...
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I put some coats of finish on the limbs today... Might have some pics soon...
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Looking forward to the pictures...
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Yes, we want to lookie lookie. :)
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Pics of bow... First two pics at brace, 7" and 28"... Second two pics, 7 3/4" and 28"... She's a done deal... If I get used to her I might shoot her at the 3-D next weekend...
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Just ran a few arrows through her... Little over 20 yds... I think Steph is doing her job...
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup: With string bridge, interesting.
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Yeah... I wish I made it another 1/16" higher... I can modify it...
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Very nice, Rich and great shooting...
:thumbsup:
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I'm not used to the looks of it, but really like how the limbs don't come off a square corner on riser.
Great string angle, great shootin!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Looks good to me :thumbsup:
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Hmm thats different. Looks like a coat hanger. Those limbs bending good tho. And BTW those kind of groups are from a good operator.
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Thanks Guys...
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It's your bow Rich, but I don't care for those big round ends on the riser and do they do anything for performance.
I would rather see a more conventional riser.
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I'm looking at the pics on my phone so it's kinda hard to see, but it looks like the wedges are bending ever so slightly over the rounded ends of the riser. Doesn't seem likely but......
If nothing else, the round riser ends will psych your competition. 😀
It will be perceived that the riser is the key to your success 🙌 Soon the Olympic style archers will be shooting the with round balls on the ends of their risers machined at huge expense from titanium. Your contribution will be lost in the cloud of hype created by the big boys 👦 in the manufacturing game.
The best you can possibly hope for is that it will become known as "the Red Coat Hanger". At least it will be so known here on the bench 😉
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What’s the physical weight of the bow Rich?
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Just ran a few arrows through her... Little over 20 yds... I think Steph is doing her job...
Roy... Proof is in the pudding, my friend... I have made a lot of tight groups in the past but not with 6 out of 7 arrows in a 3" circle, centered on target... Most were off center and some arrows were a hair more stray... I was scared to pull the arrows in fear that I would not be able to replicate this again... Maybe it was a fluke... Time will tell... One thing is for sure, even when I am shooting chitty my groups are still tighter than before with other bows... Simple physics my friend... Plus your eye is trained to think a certain way... Think out of the box... A lot of people think my bow looks cool and I actually have a highly competitive shooter say that he would love to try shooting it... There is a reason barebow shooters have a heavy riser with added weights... But then if you wanna look cool and follow the herd that is always an option... But not for me... :thumbsup:
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3 lb. 7 oz. Thinking about adding a brass ornament like a dragon or something to add more weight...
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It's your bow Rich, but I don't care for those big round ends on the riser and do they do anything for performance.
They add weight and inertia to keep the bow more stable while aiming and during the shot. They serve the same purpose as the large stabilizers used by olympic archers, just on a smaller scale.
I can't say I'm a fan of the styling, but function is far more important than form in this case. Target shooting tools of all sorts are generally ugly and functional.
Mark
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I'm thinkin you could drill yer balls and fill em with hot lead for weight.
That sounds like a country song almost... :biglaugh:
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Somebody gets it... :thumbsup: Thanks for explaining, Mattock... Plus it adds style... If you are into steampunk and ol' school... you will love this style... I am looking forward to showing up at a major competition with this bow, and hopefully kick some ass...
Kenny... Exactly... Way ahead of you bro... :thumbsup:
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I' m still wondering how the curved end of the riser affects the limb movement and the shot. I like the idea of letting the wedge gently go over end of riser and not be on a square corner... :coffee:
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If target shooters were more worried about looking cool than hitting the bullseye they wouldn't have those stabilizing rods and would all be shooting Blacktails...
Kenny... Wait until you see my next idea... May go over the 200 fps mark...
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3 lb. 7 oz. Thinking about adding a brass ornament like a dragon or something to add more weight...
How about brass gargoyle faces on each of the round surfaces? 🤔
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I like how those limbs are evenly bent. the speeds are right up there with the walk the talk bows.
Rich, how much width taper is there on the working part of the limb
BTW
willi = williwaw as I tried to update my email and password at the same time, and must have got my email entered wrong.
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I'm thinkin you could drill yer balls and fill em with hot lead for weight.
That sounds like a country song almost... :biglaugh:
Modify message
LOL
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I like how those limbs are evenly bent. the speeds are right up there with the walk the talk bows.
Rich, how much width taper is there on the working part of the limb
BTW
willi = williwaw as I tried to update my email and password at the same time, and must have got my email entered wrong.
Willi... I got 196 fps with these style limbs at 6" brace and this has no carbon and is not a hotrod bow, just a standard bow... Width taper - about 1 3/8 to 1/2"...
Kenny... You can bet that the riser sticking out past the contact point of the limbs may also somewhat help as a limb dampener...
Cruise... I will eventually dress it up with something...
For this style bow I am thinking of calling it the 'Victorian'... I think the name fits it...
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I’m thinking it lets the wedge do a little more work and may add a fps or two. Still thinkin in all that
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Kenny... Are you thinking the limb is actually hitting the riser more and more as you bend it?? That is not the case... The limb/riser relation is the same as a standard bow...
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No , thinking the wedge can gently bend a little more instead of over a sharp corner on most bows. Should smooth things up a little? Like just a shade more working limb?
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That's what I thought you were thinking... But that's not the case with this bow... You should try it... I am gonna try something similar to that but a bit different...
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So when is the next 3D shoot, Rich?
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Tomorrow... Saturday...
It is a lower poundage and I have to aim higher on this bow so the different yardages could throw me off... Plus the arrow comes out of this bow a little nock high... I hate that chit... Does anyone know why?? I believe it's tiller... A certain kind tiller dealing with limb thickness or something... In the past I tried positive and negative tiller and still get nock high coming out of the bow... Most of my bows the arrow comes straight out or even a hair nock low in which I like for better arrow flight...
Maybe I have to mess around with that tillering thing that you do, Roy... Do you get bows that are a 1/4 " or more pos or neg. tiller to get the bow to shoot right... To me, I think the bow would look funny being that much off from even tiller...
I was just thinking... Maybe I should mess with rest height...
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Most times it is the tiller that causes that.
I tiller for equal limb timing and every bow I make shoots a straight arrow when I set my arrow nock at 3/8th above level, because that is how my tiller tree is setup assuming I will set the nock 3/8th high. If a bow tillered for say a 1/4" positive tiller, then I would need to raise or lower the arrow nocking point to get good arrow flight. And most times it is the tiller and almost impossible to eliminate nock high arrows.
I know what you mean about a bows tiller looking funny, but unless it's way off it hardly noticeable. And I very seldom have a bow come out like that. Take one of your older bows that may have the high nock problem and re-tiller it for equal limb timing with a predetermined nocking point. I'll bet the high nock arrow flight will go away.
How far above bow center do you place your arrow shelf? I used to do 2" which was a lot, now the past 2 bows I've made, I measured up 1.25" above center and those 2 bows were a dream to tiller.
Also you could put on a sticky back arrow rest a tad above the arrow shelf and I'd bet that fixes the nock high arrow flight. Can't hurt to try. An elevated rest yields a lot better arrow flight. Those sticky rest will peel right back off...
Good luck tomorrow...
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Thanks...
I shimmed the bottom limb... Now has 1/4" pos. tiller... No difference... Adjusting the tiller like that, I believe only shifts the grip angle(riser angle) and changes how the grip is gonna feel in your hand... I am gonna try switching top and bottom limbs... I got a theory that even if the limbs a bending nice and evenly, if one limb is slightly thicker than the other it will return faster...
These limbs are pretty evenly tiller... May have a 1/16th pos...
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if one limb is slightly thicker than the other it will return faster...
Exactly and that can cause nock high arrow flight, Just like a tire that is out of balance reacts, thus why I tiller for equal limb timing.
I edited the above post a tad, read it again.
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Good stuff, Thanks... I will have to put a good bow on the tree and have to compare differences with one that shoots nock high...
I used to go 1 1/4" And now 1 3/8"... I cant my shelf in so it is about 1 5/16" plus 1/16" leather rest...
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Cool, and try this.
Put a line or piece of tape straight vertically down from your tiller rope connection on the bow string and see how the pull rope tracks when you pull it.
Notice how in the video below the pull rope tracks the line, that means both limbs are bending equally. " Limb Timed "
Then imagine how that pull rope would track if I moved it say an inch left or right and pulled the bow down?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf7CnshkW7I
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Plus the arrow comes out of this bow a little nock high... I hate that chit... Does anyone know why?? I believe it's tiller...
This may be a stupid question, but moving your nocking point doesn't change that?
Mark
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Did i miss the Arrow Rest?
You are Shooting Vanes of the Shelf?
If i shoot Vanes of the Shelf, the arrows fly Loopings.
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Yup, vanes and a less than perfect release can cause a little sloppy arrow flight.
But Rich is talking about a constant high nock flying arrow from a couple bows.
We mentioned a stick on rest a few posts up and I believe he is going to try one.
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He has a groove in his rest for the vane to pass.
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I gotta wonder how that works with archers paradox?
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Yeah Roy... We talked about it a while back... I am all set up for it... This may be the time when it really sinks in... ( when I see a difference between two bows and how they shoot)... I will let you know what I find...
The slot on my shelf is to shoot vanes... I get true arrow flight with that setup... Otherwise there would be no way that I could hit the bullseye...
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Looking forward to see how it works out, Rich.
You definitely are hitting the bullseye regularly.
Good luck at the shoot today.
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Yeah... Hitting the Bullseye.... This is the 3rd Robin hood this week..!!! :banghead: I guess it may be time to start shooting at separate targets... :tongue:
I put my bow up on my tillering board... I know that you like to (and schooled me) put the hook where your middle finger would be for three under and split finger... I am trying something a little different I simply centered my bow, leveled it so that the bow string is perfectly level and 90* to the rope... I put the hook in the center of the string... When I pulled on the rope the hook went a hair south and the and the top limb was a little bit lower than the bottom limb... Which means when the string returns to brace the arrow nock would be going in a upward angle giving you nock high... I put my good shooting RD bow on the tree and the hook went straight down the line with the tips pretty even...
So I switched the top limb with the bottom limb on the riser and it seems to be having a lot better arrow flight... :goldtooth: :clapper:
After all these years and listening to you and other bowyers with there ideas on tillering... I think I finally got this tiller thing figured out... I hope... :pray: It's always been kind of a mystery to me and I always went with even or 1/16" positive tiller... I think I will be using a method similar to yours but slightly different... When I experiment with it, make sure it is working right and get it wired I will post my method...
Thanks Roy...
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Welcome Rich...
Cool, but think about this.
You pulled that bow at the center, that is not where you really will be pulling it when you shoot it.
Your middle finger on your draw hand will probably be an inch higher on the string from center, which means you would be pulling even more on the top limb, which will make it bend even more and the bottom even less...
Ya dig?
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Your middle finger on your draw hand will probably be an inch higher on the string from center, which means you would be pulling even more on the top limb
that makes sense, but.....
In Riches set up, he said I am trying something a little different I simply centered my bow
in addition to centering the hook on the string, so maybe it was a wash?
Roy,
when you draw your line down the wall from the hook on the string (which is also your middle finger pressure point)
do you also account for how the bow grip lies/presses into the hand? in your video, it looks like you would need quite a bit of heeling on the grip to approximate the cradle setup on your tree.
(or perhaps this is the way you grip the handle in the video?)
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Roy I totally get your method and it makes sense... I shoot 3 under and I just measured where my middle finger is and it is exactly in the middle of the string... It so happens that we are on the same page... :laughing: :thumbsup: Imagine that...
I was just gonna use the even tiller mark as a base line and go from there... Might end up with your method after all...
Willi... I am assuming you would have to adjust the tiller for different hand grips... It so happens that the pressure of my grip and where I grip the string are very close to center and the bow is dead even tiller... That's probably why my RD shoots so good for me...
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Willi... I am assuming you would have to adjust the tiller for different hand grips...
adjust your tiller for your preferred grip or find a grip angle that works with even tiller?
But the nock high thing...... dont you want the arrows coming out of the bow straight so the feathers or vanes have to do as little correcting as possible?
Can you pad your grip, or otherwise temporily modify the grip angle such that your arrows fly straighter?
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Either / Or...
Yes...
I think you would seek a permanent solution, not a temporary one...
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That’s all cool if making only for yourself but is you are making one for someone else how do you know if they are gonna high wrist it’s or heel it ? They will have to adjust the nock point to get good flight?
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Willi
The grip area of the bow at that point is a 4" flat area.
I shoot a high straight wrist grip so it's very close for me.
For someone who shoots a low heeling grip, I'll let the pull rope drift about 3/16th to the bottom limb, left limb in video.
Whichever side the pull rope drifts to is the stiffer limb.
Then the guy will shoot it and if need be we can adjust the tiller a tad but normally nothing needs done.
Kenny, ya ask the guy how he shoots and or watch him shoot.
And every factory bow a guy buys has to be tuned by adjusting the nocking point up or down.
And by adjusting the nocking point up and down you are pulling the string in a different place to "balance the limbs" to get the arrows to fly good.
I see many folks pulling the bow dead center on the tree and removing material to get the bow to a positive tiller 1/4", which seems to be the standard tiller for years. It doesn't make sense to me to tiller a bow by pulling it dead center then when they shoot it they are pulling the bow 1 or 2 inches above the point they tillered it at, especially for split finger shooters. The limbs can't be bending the same pulling it dead center then pulling it 1 or 2 inches higher!
But everyone has their own method and if it works and they are happy then so be it:)
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Put some bright lipstick on the lower hen feather. Shoot that arrow. Look at your riser . That will tell you if you have any contact of the fletch kicking the shaft up.
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When you buy the lipstick .The girl behind the counter might look at you ay little funny.
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Not if you wear a skirt. :laughing:
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I saw it, Roy... It's ok... Was just thinking of a good come back... ;) :)
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LOL ok:)
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Actually did not make you look too good wanting to see something like that... :laughing:
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Dats why I took it off:)
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:laughing: :biglaugh: :laughing: