Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 27, 2021, 08:49:27 PM
Post by: Pat B on November 27, 2021, 10:11:09 PM
Post by: mmattockx on November 27, 2021, 10:23:23 PM
That is a gorgeous piece of maple, will make a beautiful bow.
Mark
Post by: Longcruise on November 27, 2021, 11:00:52 PM
I've also used it on veneers with good results.
Post by: KenH on November 28, 2021, 07:16:41 AM
Post by: Roy from Pa on November 28, 2021, 08:56:52 AM
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 28, 2021, 09:22:30 AM
The oil brings back out the reddish colors. Without the oil, it is brown.
Of course oil will not work on veneers for laminating. I have some aniline dyes. Going to wipe it down with a coat of yellow or light orange to see if that brings back some color.
Post by: Eric Krewson on November 28, 2021, 09:24:29 AM
I use the stuff a lot, both Ferric nitrate and Aqufortis. For bow risers i suspect ferric nitrate crystals would be the way to go because you wouldn't have to neutralize the wood afterward like you have to do with aqufortis. In my experience I found that a heavy application of aqufortis will continue to get darker over time.
Most of the gun builders use aqufortis or ferric nitrate and some other stain to achieve the exact color they want, the combinations are endless.
Here is a ferric nitrate stained gizmo, blushed and finished with satin poly. This is Roy's just after I made it.
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 28, 2021, 09:44:49 AM
I did sand the above sample back a bit and then used a coat of tung oil before the poly. The oil really made it go from muddy brown to the vibrant color.
Post by: Longcruise on November 28, 2021, 10:01:59 AM
This was ferric nitrate solution made with the crystals from The Science Company. I neutralize with baking soda when applied to lams even though it's said to be unnecessary. I had a bad experience with a pistol holster that I had stained black with it. I was never sure if the ferric nitrate was the sole problem or if the leather got damp without my realizing it. Rust!
I have made aqua fortis the old fashioned way but the ferric nitrate crystals are much easier to make, work with, and store.
Post by: Eric Krewson on November 28, 2021, 10:17:55 AM
I just finished this stock with regular aqufortis and an oil finish.
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 28, 2021, 10:24:11 AM
Post by: jrstegner on November 28, 2021, 08:48:41 PM
Post by: Eric Krewson on November 29, 2021, 08:25:16 AM
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 29, 2021, 09:19:23 AM
Post by: Flem on November 29, 2021, 11:48:48 AM
Another way to get a deeper color with chemical stains, is to pre- treat the wood with tannic acid first.
The tannins in wood are what cause the color reaction. Maple is light on tannins, so pre-treating can add quite a bit of color potential.
Post by: Eric Krewson on November 29, 2021, 12:54:16 PM
Post by: Flem on November 29, 2021, 02:38:44 PM
As with any finish that is new to the finisher, it's prudent to to do a sample board that shows every step of the finishing process. Then you know exactly what to expect and how to get it.
Post by: Longcruise on November 29, 2021, 03:17:19 PM
It's also a good choice for plain grain maple if you're just after a pleasing brown reddish finish. It’s fast and easy with no fuss or mess.
Post by: Mad Max on November 29, 2021, 04:06:07 PM
These only have dye on them
(https://i.imgur.com/YrYKRen.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/YJiqCT9.jpg?1)
But it doesn't show up very good on the sides
(https://i.imgur.com/d1Tmd1j.jpg?1)
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 29, 2021, 07:44:25 PM
Here is a piece that I had dyed with Kita wood dye first then put Ferric Nitrate on half. It seems to have lessened the effect of the frric Nitrate. This looks promising! The darker portion is dye first, then ferric nitrate
It had a coat of semi gloss poly over it.
Post by: Flem on November 30, 2021, 09:53:12 AM
https://www.shellac.net
This outfit has an extensive collection of regular and de-waxed shellacs. Some also work as excellent toners, if you want to tweak the color subtly. 1/2lb cut mix is perfect for sealing off dyes and stains. I like to buy the regular stuff and decant it. The shellac wax is good for sealing utility wood among other uses.
Post by: Appalachian Hillbilly on November 30, 2021, 10:53:11 AM
I have a good supply of ambrosia, curly and fiddle maple. Figured maple and walnut or rosewood combos are my favorite!
The risers I am not so worried about.
Post by: Coytee on February 01, 2025, 12:52:52 PM
I have some very curly maple that I want to do a riser for a 3 piece bow out of. I love the color and look of the old muzzle loaders. Here is a sample piece. Anyone done it?
Hi,
I'm new here. For full disclosure, I've not shot an arrow in probably 50 years.... I found this by complete accident. Pardon that I'm essentially, not one of you.
Here's my story:
My father (95 years old) has the family bible. This bible is probably every bit of 150 years old. It is (guessing) 12x18x9 (wxhxd)
Now, think of a cake plate. Flat glass plate....with a clear dome on top to cover said cake (less that which you've mashed into your mouth!)
I want to make a presentation box for the bible. It would be flat (like the plate) and the entire top with sides, would come off as one piece.
I'm thinking Walnut for the base... and thinking maple for the top half. (very top cutout with a glass or plexi window to see bible inside)
I've never done this. I forgot what I internet searched for.....but I came across this thread and saw the first picture.....stopped me dead in my tracks!!!!
Since I am bow ignorant, I didn't know what the security questions were to gain access to had to do some internet searches lol :)
For you that are woodworkers.... what I'm wondering is if you use Walnut as a base (I'm thinking start at 2" thick so I can machine it down and have edges routed so it wouldn't be four square sides). Anyway, FORGET Walnut.... clean slate. What woods would you think compliment each other nicely?
Would the picture in the first comment here, blend well with walnut as it really caught my eye!!!
If not, any other ideas? I realize this might not be your point of interest.....then again.....if you're making your own bows..... if you're making finishes like I saw.... you just might enjoy something like this.
I appreciate any thoughts you may have. I'll admit.... if I get some ideas and do them, I'm essentially "gone" from here....so I'll tell you what.... if I make this happen (and I fully intend to), I'd be happy to post progress pictures so you can see what you helped guide. THAT said.....to be honest, I don't anticipate doing anything until maybe summer as I really hate working outside in the cold.
Thank you!
Post by: Shootrj2003 on March 09, 2025, 10:53:36 PM