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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Appalachian Hillbilly on July 17, 2022, 08:10:44 AM
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I got my Action Boo in from Big Jim's and got some processed into lams last night. Building some limbs with black glass, so not worried about veneers etc. I also have plenty of vertical grain hard maple lams.
All Boo or Boo center and maple belly and back? Any benefits to either?
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Doesn't matter :thumbsup:
I would use one or the other
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Is your action boo, natural or amber. If it's Amber, you can mix it with the maple. Will give you a little bit different of accent color. But no, I think they both respond the same, maple little bit faster. Maybe. JF?
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Prolly need a chrono to see a performance difference on any of them. The boo pretty consistent on the grind with no grain runout. Rock maple been around in bows a long time to. Edge grain elm and walnut are good core also. Be sure to get plenty glue on the walnut.
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This is the natural that Big Jim sales. Going to try a set with all Boo. Maybe a set of maple with the center lam boo.
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This one is all Amber Boo, four .001 tapers 68" longbow 17" riser.
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Nice, Jeff.
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Why 4 .001 tapers and not 2 .002 tapers, your fade ramps are fairly flat so no problem with that.?
I do think more lams is stiffer, but you need to grind your last lam after measuring you stack to hit the number. :thumbsup:
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I like 4. All are the same thickness. Stack minus the glass, divided by 4. OCD 🤣
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I don't like thick laminations. If I want a middle accent wood I can do it.
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The thick actionwood is part of the riser. Footed riser I call it. JF
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Action boo. Not actionwood. Damn auto correct. JF
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:thumbsup: :bigsmyl:
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I got my Action Boo in from Big Jim's and got some processed into lams last night. Building some limbs with black glass, so not worried about veneers etc. I also have plenty of vertical grain hard maple lams.
All Boo or Boo center and maple belly and back? Any benefits to either?
This is just my own theory, but it’s proven to be a good one. I prefer the action boo on the back side of the limb in a recurve, and the rock hard maple on the belly side because the maple has higher compression strength, and bamboo has higher tensile strength. But…. In D shaped long bow designs where the working limb is distributed more evenly along the length of the limb, I don’t think it matters at all. I have built many 100% bamboo long bows with great luck.
But the recurve limbs with a shorter working section seems to benefit more from the maple belly. I think it will extend longevity too.
I know a few long time bowyers that share your thoughts of more lams is better in a limb. I have a basic rule of thumb I use… nothing bigger than .080 in the stack in the working section. Lighter draw weights have fewer lams in the lay up sometimes. Kirk
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Thanks guys, I was going to try a set of all Boo, but the last set of lams snuck up on me and I got them too thin for my stack. Instead of cutting g some more boo, I just grabbed some maple I had roughed in. Will do the maple on the belly. Hopefully get some wedges cut this evening and start gluing up tomorrow.
Got 3 sets of black glass limbs to make and want a generic color of wedge that will go with about any riser. Probably just do Maple.
These will be 11" long with flat portion 4" and the flat portion will be about .325 thick. Would I see any difference in draw or weight characteristics if I used phenolic to get black wedges?
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I don't know if i would recommend phenolic as a wedge. Linen phenolic is great for overlays on limb pads and the back of the riser if you want. But Linen phenolic is pretty limp for a wedge. If you use G-10 or Micarta those materials are seriously stiff and will effect your limb dynamics.
the best black material for wedges is Wenge that i know of. or better yet ebony if you have scraps to mill into wedges. The only issue with wenge is the grand canyon pores than need filling. Iron wood or Ipe makes great wedges, as well as black walnut. I've been milling wedges from this Black ChromaPly and it works well too.
.02 cents worth... Kirk
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Thanks Kirk. I have a big plank of 8/4 wenge and quite a bit of Ipe as well. Was thinking about trying some Smooth on as a surface treatment for Wenge to help fill the pores.
The set of super heavy limbs I made used Ipe wedges, but they were to thick and to long for my form I believe. Very stiff. They were about .410 thick on the butt. May cut a set around 325 and taper them to nothing in 7-8" and see how they do. Got some black walnut as well.
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You will have better luck with straight taper wedges bro, and don’t be afraid to make them long and lean. There is just something special about long lean wedges made from good stiff hardwood. You get the first stress on the fades as you string the bow, then they act like overload springs at the tail end of the draw which extends the draw length max before stacking up. Best part is you will seldom ever get a hinge point at the fades. You need to experiment a bit on exact length, but with a 4” limb pad, 10.5 to 11.5 finished wedge length works excellent on my limbs. Food for thought. You should give it a try….. Kirk
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What are you calling straight taper?
I have been doing one side flat then a flat section on the other side for the pad then from that portion tapering to the rest of the length.
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What are you calling straight taper?
I have been doing one side flat then a flat section on the other side for the pad then from that portion tapering to the rest of the length.
NO flat, tapered all the way. :thumbsup:
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Never thought of doing that? Would that cause any issues under the limb bolt? I guess not because ILF limbs don't make full contact.
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Both sides are flat all the way the Bezel takes care of the miss alignment for the bolt
This one tip is reflex when glued in the form--far right :thumbsup:
(https://i.imgur.com/LTtSd13.jpg)
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Thanks for the pic. I will try that on this set. Hopefully I get some shop time this weekend. I get to tear down my whats left of my Grandfathers old barn for the barn wood. Be working on that in the cool of the morning and then hopefully on my limbs.
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What are you calling straight taper?
I have been doing one side flat then a flat section on the other side for the pad then from that portion tapering to the rest of the length.
NO flat, tapered all the way. :thumbsup:
What Max said. Your bezel washers will make up for that tapered wedge just fine.
If you are looking to make a hot set of limbs try a mixture of wenge and paduke cores with a thin maple belly lam.Another one is Zebra wood and wenge, or Zebra & Paduke make a good hot rod too....
The thin maple belly lam is something real common in building carbon backed bows. it helps keep the carbon from shearing or buckling because of its superior compression strength. But this holds true for glass limb longevity too. Kirk