Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Appalachian Hillbilly on August 08, 2022, 12:36:21 PM
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So what are you using to slice out your lams? I have a Resaw King that I just killed and looking at new blades. This thing made awesome smooth cuts but they are pricey. I cut a bunch of phenolic and a few sets of glass limbs and then some Jatoba. Dull as a fro now.
I have a diamond blade for my table saw for the glass and phenolic in the future and will refrain from using the bandsaw and my good blade...
Pony up for another Resaw King or what are some better priced alternatives?
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Whatever Mad Max uses. Did you see the laminated handle bow that was done without any sanding?
Check that out
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Wood slicer resaw blade. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Dave.
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Do you guys get your Wood Slicer's from Highland Hardware or are there other sources?
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Highland woodworking :thumbsup:
Hillbilly I don't cut anything but wood on my band saw.
The Resaw King is for cutting veneers.
I hear people keep cutting glass with dull carbide blades .
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I don’t cut veneers on my bandsaw any more even though I bought a second saw just so I could.
Actually…. I just got a good deal on a 17” Jet bandsaw, not specifically for cutting veneers. I used the wood slicer from highland and also tried the timber wolf. Both worked well, but were not fun to get set up just right for veneers every time I needed it. I use that saw for other things too.
My second bandsaw is a 14” and has a 3/4”x 3 TPI carbide tip blade I use for G-10 , glass , micarta, phenolic, and riser work. It’s all I use it for. Very expensive blade but they last for years.
I cut my veneers on a table saw, then use the drum sander. I use a thin kerf 8.25” , 24 tooth on my 10” saw. And use 7.25” carbide tipped framing blades made by Diablo for ripping glass and carbon. those are very thin kerf just over 1/16”.
Kirk
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Glass will wipeout a band saw quicker than shit. Don't use it on glass,no. JF
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Yea, no more glass. It was awesome and extremely smooth before I did that. I may try the Wood Slicer. I cut out my riser today with another blade and the Jatoba is mean stuff. Gorgeous , but I will not use it again.
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They make different types of blades for different purposes. If you have a saw set up with a re-saw blade for cutting veneers, you cant use it for anything else and expect it to perform the same way.
I use a 1/2” 6 TPI for cutting radius footing lines in a riser block on my big saw. A typical re saw blade isn’t designed for radius work and using it for that pinches the set of the blade, and Glass kills em dead and dulls the cutting edge.
A carbide “tipped”blade…. Not to be confused with a carbide steel blade. Will cut glass, carbon, micarta, and G-10 and keep on going. but cutting wood after using it on composite material it won’t perform as well. You either gotta change blades or use a different saw. For me it’s much easier to change blades on a table saw, than a band saw. And a lot cheaper using a $10.00 carbide tipped blade.
Kirk
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Yep what Kirk said :shaka:
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Kirk, where do you find your 8 1/4" blades.?
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https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0840X-Diablo-4-Inch-Finishing/dp/B00008WQ2L/ref=sr_1_1?crid=AN0ASVCXKU3I&keywords=diablo+8.25%22+saw+blades&qid=1660057692&sprefix=diablo+8.25+saw+blades%2Caps%2C876&sr=8-1
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If you have a cabinet or tuned up saw, you might consider a higher end blade. Quite a few blade maker offer thin kerf 60T finish blades, in various diameters. I've been using a Tenryu, I can buy it locally. Its a real good blade and has only touched clean wood. The key to blade longevity and cut quality, is to clean them regularly. It does not take much resin buildup to cause a blade to heat up in use, which accelerates the dulling process.
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I have a 18" bandsaw with a 1" blade on it for milling wood... A 14" saw with a 3/4" carbide blade for general use and cutting raidus's... I love the carbide bandsaw blade... Stays sharp and the smoothest cut.. A 10" saw with a 3/8" metal blade on it and another 10" saw with a 3/8" wood blade on it...
I cut my Lams on a table saw with a 8" blade... I have a jig made that cuts tapers pretty accurately...
** If you are wanting a pretty good small bandsaw go with a Craftsman 10" saw... They don't make them anymore... I don't know why... There are other brands that have the same build... You may want to try one of them... All 9" saws are pieces of chit... Have never came across a decent one yet...
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If you have a cabinet or tuned up saw, you might consider a higher end blade. Quite a few blade maker offer thin kerf 60T finish blades, in various diameters. I've been using a Tenryu, I can buy it locally. Its a real good blade and has only touched clean wood. The key to blade longevity and cut quality, is to clean them regularly. It does not take much resin buildup to cause a blade to heat up in use, which accelerates the dulling process.
That's interesting Buggs.... I've been running saws for 40 years and never worried about cleaning the blades. I just send them in for sharpening. I use carbide tipped blades on all my saws except some band saw blades and hand saws. How do you go about cleaning them? Kirk
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Thats funny, I always just clean my blades and never worry about sharpening :laughing:
Soak them in a shallow pan of denatured alcohol for however long it takes to soften up the residue and then scrub it off with a brass brush. After its dry, it gets 2or 3 coats of Bostik GlideCote. As long as whatever is on the blade is tree based, the alcohol will dissolve it. Unless it's burnt :tongue:
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https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0840X-Diablo-4-Inch-Finishing/dp/B00008WQ2L/ref=sr_1_1?crid=AN0ASVCXKU3I&keywords=diablo+8.25%22+saw+blades&qid=1660057692&sprefix=diablo+8.25+saw+blades%2Caps%2C876&sr=8-1
Thanks. I have an 8.25 Dewalt and am looking for blades other than the proprietary ones. Not that they are not good blades but the Diablo may have a thinner kerf.
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Thats funny, I always just clean my blades and never worry about sharpening :laughing:
Soak them in a shallow pan of denatured alcohol for however long it takes to soften up the residue and then scrub it off with a brass brush. After its dry, it gets 2or 3 coats of Bostik GlideCote. As long as whatever is on the blade is tree based, the alcohol will dissolve it. Unless it's burnt :tongue:
You do this with carbide tipped blades too? I gotta give this a try... Kirk
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When I first got my bandsaw, 8 decided I was going to resaw some maple that was green and had figure....bad idea. Too green. Gummed up every thing and took forever to get the sap build up off the wheels and blade.
I have several blades and have gotten good at setting them up, but decided the carbide teeth were up to the task on the glass...or maybe it was the Jatoba...
My resaw blade in the future will be like a nice suit, only drag it out for real special occasions. Lams only...
Laguna does offer a sharpening service. May try it.
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Heck yeah, I do all my blades from Bandsaw to Handsaw. Especially noticeable with a hand saw, you can feel when its building friction. A motor just pushes thru it and you won't notice if you have good hearing protection, or never use hearing protection :o
Here is another strategy for smooth cuts on a table saw;
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Good Tip on the dirty blades... A while back I read somewhere that resin on the blade can cause dullness... I don't clean my saw blades but I do clean my router bits everytime after I use them... Then I coat them with a wax to keep any moisture out and corrosion down...
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That's interesting Buggs.... I've been running saws for 40 years and never worried about cleaning the blades.
It depends a fair bit on what you are cutting. If it's green/wet construction lumber or some of the gummier softwoods you will find the blades collect a lot of residue on the sides and it fills the gullets of the teeth, which affects how cleanly the chips are removed. If you cut mostly well seasoned hardwoods then it might be no issue for you at all.
Simple green also works well for cleaning the blades, but it can remove any coating on the blade if you're not careful. I'm going to look up the glidecote and see if I can get some to try. Anything that keeps blades clean longer and makes the cutting easier is a good thing in my books.
Mark
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Trewax or equivalent is really useful in the shop. Applied to metal or wood surfaces it really reduces friction and minimizes wear. Try it on a jointer bed or on the working surfaces of a table saw, whether cast iron, steel, aluminum or wood - it makes the work easier. Bandsaw spindle sander tables too. Huge difference if applied to the sole of any hand plane, metal or wood. Try it on a handsaw for a real thrill. I always apply it to all the friction surfaces of a shaping jig before use.
Just wipe on a thin coat, then wipe off the the excess and give it a few minutes harden. No worries about contaminating wood with wax either. For all practical purposes it stays put.
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onetone, which Trewax product are you using?
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Forgot to mention, if there are tools or surfaces you don’t want epoxy to stick to, do a couple of coats of wax and don’t bother with wiping it off. Epoxy will just pop off once it has cured.
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I've used hard waxes on hand tools in the past, but have never considered it on high speed cutting blades. Worried about heat transfer. Sounds like you have not had any problems and considering how old that can of wax looks, I'd say its been proven!
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Yeah three pounds of wax lasts a LONG time. I don’t even remember when I bought it.
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I have used the Minwax wood wax for a long time. I put it on all my saw tables mainly to help with rust. I also put it on the bottom of my lam sled to help it feed smoothly through my Byrnes sander.
Never thought about using it on the blades. May give that a try.
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Yeah three pounds of wax lasts a LONG time. I don’t even remember when I bought it.
I googled it with images and all of them said Vintage :laughing:
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Good one Max! :biglaugh:
AH - I wasn’t saying I use it on bandsaw blades … but as you say it it might be worth a try.
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I’m going to try wax on my pattern sander table.
I tried baby power at one time to make it slippery but it didn’t really work
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I don’t cut veneers on my bandsaw any more even though I bought a second saw just so I could.
Actually…. I just got a good deal on a 17” Jet bandsaw, not specifically for cutting veneers. I used the wood slicer from highland and also tried the timber wolf. Both worked well, but were not fun to get set up just right for veneers every time I needed it. I use that saw for other things too.
My second bandsaw is a 14” and has a 3/4”x 3 TPI carbide tip blade I use for G-10 , glass , micarta, phenolic, and riser work. It’s all I use it for. Very expensive blade but they last for years.
I cut my veneers on a table saw, then use the drum sander. I use a thin kerf 8.25” , 24 tooth on my 10” saw. And use 7.25” carbide tipped framing blades made by Diablo for ripping glass and carbon. those are very thin kerf just over 1/16”.
Kirk
Question: So cutting veneers or core lams on the table saw, what approx thickness 1/8" ? do you cut too before you mill them on the drum sander ?
And do most of you cut edge grain for your core lams vs flat ?
Most of my figuered woods i have are 4/4 so was hoping to cut veneers with band saw if its doable to save some wood but i have used those Diablo blades lots on skill saws and they are a pretty thin blade probably not much more waist at all , alot of the saws the arbor wouldnt tighten enough without a washer.
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For my regular core lams I use to mill tapers and parallel lams, I rip them down to about .130-.135 . I like a wee bit more than an 1/8” to make sure I cam sand all the saw marks out and end up with .100 thickness on my finished lams.
I use quarter sawn vertical grain on maple for consistency in lams and wedges. All wedges should be vertical grain. For veneers you would want the flat grain.
A little secret to success with using the table saw is always keep the crown of your lumber into the fence, and that can change as you are ripping your lams. Every cut you take relieves the tension in the wood and the wood moves. So flip it over and rip from the other side always keeping the crown into the fence. Table saws are dangerous tools and require sharp blades. nothing should ever be forced.
Putting extra pressure holding a warped board into the fence to cut a straight line is not something that should be done. It can cause the blade to bind up and kick back on you. On a big saw with a 3-5hp motor you can get hurt badly binding up a blade. I’ve learned to keep my body offset and never stand directly behind that saw blade when using a big saw. That has saved me a time or two.
Most guys with small shops or garage builders rarely have commercial grade table saws with serious power. The home owner grade or hobby saws have 3/4 hp or 1 hp and if they bind up their saw, it stops the blade. If you do not have professional training and experience using these saws, be very careful. These are man eaters. Kirk
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Kirk... Do you cut tapered lams on your saw?? Or just Parallels??
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I just cut Pars on my table saw, but have a wedge jig that cuts about 5/16" to nothing in 12" . I flip the block every pass on my wedges.
I suppose a guy could set up a taper jig for cutting tapered lams too, but i've never messed with it myself. I typically set up my saw and rip a 100 -140 lams at a time, then bundle them up in stacks of 20 and keep them on a shelf until i go into lam milling mode. Then i mill 20 at a time of each different taper rate. .001, .0015 , @ .002 then keep them in neet stacks so they don't get oxidized too bad.
With that being said, i still freshly sand all my lams just prior to lay up. This gets rid of any oils or oxidization that effects the surface and i'm good to go for lay up. Teak, Bocote, Bubinga, Cocobolo, and some rosewoods need to be freshly sanded IMO. There are other oily woods i'm sure i missed. I never use acetone on my wood to remove oils. Kirk
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I just cut Pars on my table saw, but have a wedge jig that cuts about 5/16" to nothing in 12" . I flip the block every pass on my wedges.
I suppose a guy could set up a taper jig for cutting tapered lams too, but i've never messed with it myself. I typically set up my saw and rip a 100 -140 lams at a time, then bundle them up in stacks of 20 and keep them on a shelf until i go into lam milling mode. Then i mill 20 at a time of each different taper rate. .001, .0015 , @ .002 then keep them in neet stacks so they don't get oxidized too bad.
With that being said, i still freshly sand all my lams just prior to lay up. This gets rid of any oils or oxidization that effects the surface and i'm good to go for lay up. Teak, Bocote, Bubinga, Cocobolo, and some rosewoods need to be freshly sanded IMO. There are other oily woods i'm sure i missed. I never use acetone on my wood to remove oils. Kirk
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Well that’s good to know Kirk I just checked my 8/4 maple and it’s def not quartersawed,
Still possible to use as core lams or best to find some quartersawed ?
Not a good day unless you Learn something new !
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When I go choose my core or lam lumber, I only get quartersawn. If I end up with plain sawn, I use it for accent stripes in the riser.
I keep some clean solid color maple for accent stripes. I hate to use good lam material for accents, because good lam wood is harder to come by.
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Sanding tapers out of parallels sounds like a lot of grinding to me... Why not just cut tapers?? You get more lams out of a piece of wood and a lot less sanding...
I cut tapers about .025 to .030" over in thickness... A couple of passes on the sander and you are good to go...
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Well thanks guys that’s all good to know now, I have no shortage of Maple accent woods :thumbsup: still on the back pain meds :laughing:
As far as veneers go anything goes right ? Flat/ quarter sawn doesn’t matter for the most part it’s just looks ?
Thanks for the info guys , :notworthy:
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Whatever looks good :thumbsup:
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Different strokes for different folks but seems to me you waste a lot of wood ripping with a table thin kerf or not.
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I Guess... :saywhat: If you are gonna make a cut and you have the ability to make the cut how ever you want why not make the cut closer to the finished design?? Just seems like a lot of extra sanding to me to sand a parallel into a taper...
As far as kerf is concerned... I would rather lose a few lams than put wear and tear on my expensive carbide bandsaw blade... They break before the teeth wear out... I am guessing a 8" circular saw blade costs around $30 and it can cut lots and lots of lams before it ever wears out... And they are easy to resharpen...
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I will stick with the bandsaw on bamboo flooring. Cuts easy and get 3-4 lamps verses 2 with table saw.
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7 1/2 Diablo blade has a 1/16 kerf works great. If you can fit it on your table saw. JF
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I will stick with the bandsaw on bamboo flooring. Cuts easy and get 3-4 lamps verses 2 with table saw.
I'm with stic on the bamboo flooring and 3 to 4 lams.
It's 5/8" thick but has a air gap channel in the bottom and a hard clear coat on the top. :thumbsup: mine does
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Now we are talkin two different things... I was talking a slab of wood not pinching a couple of lams out of a thin piece of bamboo... In which case I would use the thinnest kerf available also...
Ok I think I made my point... I'm done here...
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Max Big Jim and Rosewood both have bamboo planks no grooves no finish.
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Yes I did know that, Thanks :thumbsup:
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So what Carbide tipped brand and what configeration for glass/g10 do you all reccomend? Tired of profiling bows on mt table saw and got another bandsaw I am dedicating to that.
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I am going to save my Resaw King for that. Still cuts glass fine but too dull for the big thick pieces of hardwood .
I have a diamond blade for my table saw, but man, it is so easy on the bandsaw to cut limb profiles with the carbide blade.
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So what Carbide tipped brand and what configeration for glass/g10 do you all reccomend? Tired of profiling bows on mt table saw and got another bandsaw I am dedicating to that.
Big Jim cuts alot of G10, he would know best.
He is kind of slow on checking his Trad Gang PM box, Try this and tell him you are on Trad Gang [email protected]
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I cut a lot of G-10 by hand with a bimetal hacksaw blade. I'm not doing any complex shaping. Don't know if a carbide tipped blade is necessary for glass. I'm sure it would last longer..... and cost a lot more.
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I cut a lot of G-10 by hand with a bimetal hacksaw blade. I'm not doing any complex shaping. Don't know if a carbide tipped blade is necessary for glass. I'm sure it would last longer..... and cost a lot more.
In the past people said they cut there site window with carbide band saw blade and use it for a year or more.
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I know I have cut as many as 20 to 25 longbow limbs with a regular bimetal blade after it dulled some on wood. G10 will wreck them pretty quick tho.
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Thanks for all you comments everyone!
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Well that’s good to know Kirk I just checked my 8/4 maple and it’s def not quartersawed,
Still possible to use as core lams or best to find some quartersawed ?
Not a good day unless you Learn something new !
Well took some of that flat sliced 8/4 hard maple I have and cut myself some quartersawn out of the middle of it enough to rip a few lams for sure, not easy stuff to find around here suppliers may have some oak but that would be it . Back on track whenever I get at it.
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Local place had a Timber Wolfe. Nowhere near as smooth as a Resaw King. Will use it for general stuff, but too much sanding for lams. The Resaw King required very little sanding if you got the saw set up right.
No flutter with the Timber wolf, just not as smooth.
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Now we are talkin two different things... I was talking a slab of wood not pinching a couple of lams out of a thin piece of bamboo... In which case I would use the thinnest kerf available also...
Ok I think I made my point... I'm done here...
I used a 1/6” kerf 7 1/4” Diablo blade on 5/8” flooring on a small portable table saw for years and it would cut a full 1.75” material. I got 6 lams per board. 144 lams per case. Cost per case about $100 for high quality flooring.
Unfortunately my big uni saw doesn’t have the same depth capacity running a
7.25” blade without double cutting it, so I use an 8.25 now that has a thicker kerf.
Now I’m only getting 96 lams per case on 5/8” flooring …..
but do the math guys…. That’s only $1.00 per lam on a $1000 bow… even if you made your lams at half that cost what are you saving? two bucks per bow if you used 4 lams each.
I think some of you guys must be tight wads… lol. Time is money too.
Kirk
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Guess I'm a tight wad! I saw the price of that Resaw King and my kerf got smaller. :saywhat:
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Guess I'm a tight wad! I saw the price of that Resaw King and my kerf got smaller. :saywhat:
You think that’s expensive…. Wait until you buy a carbide tipped band saw blade.
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I'll knap some tiny chips and glue them on the saw teeth, before I spend $150. on a bandsaw blade!
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:biglaugh:
Yea they are expensive, but so is this hobby! I only have so much time to spend in the shop, so it is worth it for me to keep from having to spend that much more time on the sander.
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I'll knap some tiny chips and glue them on the saw teeth, before I spend $150. on a bandsaw blade!
I know that sticker shock leaves a mark bro….but I have got 5 years each out of a couple of those blades in the past and built hundreds of bows. Ive broken the 1/2” blades a couple times and had them welded back together.
This last year I couldn’t find the 1/2” 6 TPI blades anymore. I think they quit making them. So I bought a 4 TPI 3/4” blade. It’s seriously aggressive and wouldn’t be used for ripping veneer stock. But I can cut a G-10 sight window out with this blade like butter. Hopefully I’ll get 5 years out of this one too.
The down side to this 3/4” deep blade is my radius cutting options are limited. I preferred the 1/2” blade for tighter radius work. Kirk
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Truth be told, if I used the time I spend cleaning blades to make money, it would probably be enough to buy one :knothead:
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For years I profiled limbs on a table saw using a freud 24 tooth framing blade-Cheap, lasts a long time and super quick! My greatest issue though was containing the mess.
So I just dedicated a bandsaw for profiling and Mad Max suggested I contact Big Jim (thanks Max!)
Jim profiles limbs on a table saw now and uses a diamond masonry blade( And I thought I was the only odd duck :knothead:) Maybe the masonry blade isnt so messy?-Dunno
But for G-10,risers and other glass cutting he has bandsaw dedicated with a 1/2" Lennox Trimaster blade which he said lasts a long time- Think Im going to try that.
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Mike Treadway got me to using the table saw for the limbs with a diamond blade by Lennox. It works well and I bought a cheap Ryobi table top table saw to dedicate to it.
I got in a hurry and used my bandsaw to profile some limbs with...not sure if that was what got the blade dull or resawing a price of 4 inch thick Brazilian Cherry. That is the hardest wood I have ever used. Must have silica in it as well.
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For years I profiled limbs on a table saw using a freud 24 tooth framing blade-Cheap, lasts a long time and super quick! My greatest issue though was containing the mess.
So I just dedicated a bandsaw for profiling and Mad Max suggested I contact Big Jim (thanks Max!)
Jim profiles limbs on a table saw now and uses a diamond masonry blade( And I thought I was the only odd duck :knothead:) Maybe the masonry blade isnt so messy?-Dunno
But for G-10,risers and other glass cutting he has bandsaw dedicated with a 1/2" Lennox Trimaster blade which he said lasts a long time- Think Im going to try that.
:thumbsup:
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I hate the glass dust so much I stopped using saw blade tools. I use my spindle sander for profiling. It's slow, but the dust collection is so good, I'm comfortable using it without a respirator. I still wear a dust mask out of habit.
My bandsaw blade is a Timberwolf. Its not a great blade, crappy weld and it feels like it has multiple stiff spots.
But its lasted for years and still cuts fast. Only wood and almost exclusively domestics. I think bandsaw blades are more susceptible to overheating than we realize. Only guessing, but I think the thin profile and soft steel band loose their temper at relatively low temperature. They must impulse harden the tips??
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There are a lot of band saw blades out there that seem to get dull real quick that are not dull at all. The biggest killer of a perfectly sharp blade is cutting too tight of radius and straightening out the set in the blade. Once the set is gone it acts just like a dull blade.
There is a big difference in using a 3/8” vs a 1/2” blade in how tight of radius you can cut without screwing up the set of the teeth. I even use 1/4” blades for tight scroll work.
Food for thought…. Kirk
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Lots of ways to dull a blade! I'm sticking with my observation that most "dull" blades are dirty blades. Even if all you cut is wood, the cellulose, lignin, sap and other constituents are all going to get deposited on that cutter surface.
I was reminded a few days ago when cutting some lams. I was having a hell of a time cutting Maple. I was pushing and burning. Got done with that cut, put on my bug eyes and carefully cleaned every tooth with a brass bush. Next cut in Purpleheart was zippy :thumbsup:
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""I was reminded a few days ago when cutting some lams. I was having a hell of a time cutting Maple. I was pushing and burning. Got done with that cut, put on my bug eyes and carefully cleaned every tooth with a brass bush. Next cut in Purpleheart was zippy :thumbsup:""
Now buggs, you know in bow making you only change one thing at a time to get correct results!! :laughing: :laughing:
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""I was reminded a few days ago when cutting some lams. I was having a hell of a time cutting Maple. I was pushing and burning. Got done with that cut, put on my bug eyes and carefully cleaned every tooth with a brass bush. Next cut in Purpleheart was zippy :thumbsup:""
Now buggs, you know in bow making you only change one thing at a time to get correct results!! :laughing: :laughing:
Thats never going to work, I'm like the kid on a bungie tether :bigsmyl:
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Lots of ways to dull a blade! I'm sticking with my observation that most "dull" blades are dirty blades. Even if all you cut is wood, the cellulose, lignin, sap and other constituents are all going to get deposited on that cutter surface.
I was reminded a few days ago when cutting some lams. I was having a hell of a time cutting Maple. I was pushing and burning. Got done with that cut, put on my bug eyes and carefully cleaned every tooth with a brass bush. Next cut in Purpleheart was zippy :thumbsup:
My wood cutting saw blade is a 133" 6 TPI .... That is 798 teeth to clean bro..... Did you take a nap half way through the cleaning process? :o :biglaugh:
What if you just ran that rubber sand paper eraser/cleaner through the saw? I can't even imagine doing something like cleaning each tooth with brass brush. A new one only cost $15.00
https://www.amazon.com/Olson-FB19433DB-Blade-025-Inch-133-Inch/dp/B0065Q6JIA/ref=sr_1_4?adgrpid=1342504267992315&hvadid=83906588769267&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=136250&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=p&hvtargid=kwd-83906875193357%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=28597_11151053&keywords=133+inch+bandsaw+blades&qid=1661971487&sr=8-4
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Buggs has nufin else to do :laughing:
He could sing that 99 bottles of beer on the wall song while he was doing it.
798 teeth on the saw, 798 teeth, clean one now move it around, 797 teeth on the saw.
797 teeth on the saw, 797 teeth, clean one now move it around, 796 teeth on the saw.
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
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I only had 374 teeth to clean. But hey it did not take too long and it helps that I'm OCD in addition to ADHD and also BONG.
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I remove the blade, soak it in kerosene over night and then power wash it with hot water.
Kirk, good point on straighten out the set.
There ya go Buggs-Boy.
Let us know how long it takes you to tap the set back in.
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I only had 374 teeth to clean. But hey it did not take too long and it helps that I'm OCD in addition to ADHD and also BONG.
Ya might need that BONG after 374 teeth cleaned...
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Could be from drinking some bad fermented Mexican carrot juice...
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Could be from drinking some bad fermented Mexican carrot juice...
So that stuff is not good for the vision 😕????
Going back to beer 🍺
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I remove the blade, soak it in kerosene over night and then power wash it with hot water.
Kirk, good point on straighten out the set.
There ya go Buggs-Boy.
Let us know how long it takes you to tap the set back in.
Now that’s something I’ve never tried on a band saw is tapping the set in a band saw blade. My grandpa gave me an old craftsman setting tool for steel saw blades that I really neve4 used much. But he used to sharpen all his own saw blades back in the day before carbide tooth blades took the helm in the industry.
I think I’ve seen a setting tool that looked like pliers once upon a time. Now THAT would be something worth while to do me thinks…. Kirk
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Here’s a saw set for hand saws and a vise for sharpening.
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After posting that yesterday, I found a set up just like that I inherited from my grand dad in a box out in the shop. My Dad never messed with sharpening hand saws, and had a few shops he used that did the sharpening. So that’s just something I never learned how to do….
I did learn how to use a back saw in a hand miter box to set door and window trim at a young age. We also got door blanks and had to mortise our own hinges , bore for hardware with a brace and bit, and build the door frames too. That disappeared in the early 70’s and everything was pre hung in frames and delivered.
Quite honestly…. When I can set down for 5 minutes and order a new blade for $15-$20 bucks on Amazon and have it arrive the next day. I see no reason to be messing with this stuff anymore… times have changed.
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I still have a lot of my grandfather's saw sharpening stuff. Cross cut saw and handsaws. Could not begin to tell you how to use any of it. Sadly he passed when I was an infant. My other grandfather though, taught me how to harness a work horse, hunt, fish, farm.
So much is lost these days. Unfortunately my kids have no idea what a horse collar is or what trace chains even are...
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If you guys think cleaning 374 teeth is nutty, it's nothing compared to setting and sharpening.
Then you can take it too the next level and sharpen a Japanese pattern dovetail saw with a feather file :banghead:
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The files come with a warning to only do one saw at a time to avoid potential mental heath issues and a 1-800
24hr crisis hotline.
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I was very fortunate to have both my Granddads until i was 25 years old. One of them spent time with me in his little workshop building cabinets and furniture. The other one was a custom home builder that my grandmother did all the design work and drafting on. I did a bit of wood framing with him when i was pretty young. I remember separating the lumber deliveries and removing any wood that had knots and setting them in the "return pile".... Grandpa Corey wouldnt use wood with knots in his homes.
Could you imagine building homes with clear lumber? No knots? Back in the 60's there was still old growth timber being milled. 200' tall and over 8' at the butt were quite common... I remember a lot of One log loads on trucks back then. MASSIVE douglas fir trees. Some of them 10-12' thick at the butt. :o :o :o
Those days are long gone, but i'm fortunate to have grown up seeing that.... Kirk
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Your bringing back memories Kirk, slab doors hundreds of them install site made wood frames, slab doors, and lay out and mill and mortise on site, had a gang box full of templates for door hardware. Nothing like running a boring mortise machine for eight hours a day.
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Wait, sorry this is about bandsaw blades. Carbide tipped bandsaw blades are the bomb until they break and you realize what you paid for them.
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Wait, sorry this is about bandsaw blades. Carbide tipped bandsaw blades are the bomb until they break and you realize what you paid for them.
I've had those carbide tipped blades welded back together several times with good success.
Back in 1976 there was a flood disaster in Eastern idaho when a damn broke. Wiped one city right off the map and flooded two more cities with 4-5' of water. I worked on that mess for a few months, but when we first started there was no power. Only generators.... I had all my hand tools with me and hung a lot of blank doors and set trim completely by hand. I had all the work i wanted because my dad taught me to set finish by hand proficiently before he let me use the power tools. That experience came in handy during that time.
later on in 77 we were framing a bunch of houses and the weather got bad, and work ran out. So i decided to move indoors and contracted the finish work for a few homes. At that time i had no power finish tools of my own, or finish nail guns. So i set up my hand miter saw, sharpened my chisels and block plane, bought some finish nails, and rolled up my sleeves.
The home builder was so impressed with my skills by hand, he started bringing his home buyers in to see my "Old School" workmanship, and loaded me up with work. I had people waiting an extra month to have their finishwork set by hand, and the builder even paid me 25% more for my work too.
But truth be known.... by the time i finished a dozen houses i did purchase a power miter saw and finish nailers for other projects in the future. Kirk
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For years I have used Kerfmaster blades available from Spectrum Supply. They are scary sharp and slice through exotic hardwood like butter and waste is minimal. They are also relatively inexpensive. They stay sharp for quite a while. When they start getting dull, they start to drift a little. I can still slice laminations for a while, but put on a new blade to slice veneers. This is the same blade used by Rosewood with great success.
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Looks like Spectrum uses Lennox blade stock, which is good stuff!