Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Pat B on September 07, 2022, 03:45:51 PM
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A few years back a friend gave me a 72"x2" locust board and hickory backing. It been sitting in the utility room until today. I decided to build an American Longbow. I cut the locust and backing strip to 68" long. The locust is 11/16" thick, the hickory backing strip is just over 1/8" thick. I cut both to 1 9/16" wide and the bow limbs will have a straight tapered width to the tips. The handle riser is Eastern red cedar with a 4" handle and 4" fades.
I will have to get some glue for this glue-up. I do have Urac but as you can guess it is out of date by now and even though it's been in the refrigerator I dare not use it.
Here are a few pics of the beginning...
(https://i.imgur.com/R6ltvVI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yqn9WTP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LoOhYGS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hEvSBmE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/POAVeAW.jpg)
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I am sure it will be a good one in your experienced hands.
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I am sure it will be a good one in your experienced hands.
X2 on that one :goldtooth:
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Looking good Pat.
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:thumbsup:
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I hope I don't let y'all down. Now I need to locate glue for the backing. I've never used Unibond but if it is similar to Urac and not too expensive I might use it. Otherwise it will probably be TBIII.
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Unibond800 isn't very expensive, Pat.
I get a gallon for about $50.00 and that last all winter with 3 guys making bows.
They sell it in smaller quantities too.
I'm at camp now and can't remember exactly the name of the company.
I'll see if I can find it online.
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https://www.vacupress.com/product/unibond-800-12-gallon-liquid-resin/
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Thanks, Roy. I wonder if I can find a smaller amount, maybe a pint. I would never use 1/2 gallon. I'll keep looking. I can also try to find Weldwood Plastic Resin. I've used it a bit. It is similar to Urac I used years ago.
How's the cabin treating you? I knew once y'all got there you wouldn't want to leave. :thumbsup: :laughing:
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Exciting to see all these wood bows being built!
That Locust looks like it has some short grain running belly to back. Any concerns about that?
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Phil, it does have some short run offs but it was what was given to me so I'll just have to see how she works out. It also has 2 knots on the sides that run across or into the limb area so that's another concern. I guess we'll just have to see what happens.
I will pre-tiller the belly first so I get a smooth, even bending before glue up. I'll cut out the back profile soon and start that pre-tillering and keep y'all posted with the results. She may not even make it past that. :dunno:
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I got some extra fiberglass sleeve, in case you want to go to the dark side :bigsmyl:
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:saywhat: Yuck!!! :laughing:
I found a little lateral warp in the stave so I thought I'd try to straighten it with heat. I clamped it to a old, real, pine 2x4 with a thin spacer at the center line holding it to the form and clamped the end to the 2x4 then heated both sides along the limb. I'll give it a few hours at least and see if it straightened. Any slight lateral bend that may remain I'll deal with once I get the back profile cut out and pre-tillered to an even bending state. At that point there will be less wood to move for the correction.
a few more pics...
(https://i.imgur.com/FMX42V8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m3MggVJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rd43KEg.jpg)
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I hope I don't let y'all down. Now I need to locate glue for the backing. I've never used Unibond but if it is similar to Urac and not too expensive I might use it. Otherwise it will probably be TBIII.
The unibond is basically the same product as Urac Pat. Made by the same Nelson Paint Co. I would use that over TBIII for its durability in all weather conditions. Kirk
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I would, Kirk but in my almost 40 years of wood bow building I wouldn't have use 1/2 gallon of Unibond. If I could find a pint or quart I would buy it but so far all I see is 1/2 or 1 gallon sizes.
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I just released the stave and there was no change so I used a thicker spacer and tried it again isolating the bend a little more. I guess we'll see.
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I would, Kirk but in my almost 40 years of wood bow building I wouldn't have use 1/2 gallon of Unibond. If I could find a pint or quart I would buy it but so far all I see is 1/2 or 1 gallon sizes.
Well I would probably use it for one project or another myself, so I looked into purchasing some through that site Roy provided. I thought I could buy a gallon and just send you what you need….. but…. They only ship via FED-ex and the shipping is as much as the glue is. :o :o :o
I’m going to have to look into finding a local supplier that carries it. I’m not going to pay $30 shipping for $30 worth of glue….. I gave it a shot bro….
I did notice that they have 3 colors on the hardener powder now. Makes me wonder how clear the white powder looks. The old urac was great for dark woods , but you could see all the glue lines on lighter colored wood.
Has anyone here got any experience with the white hardener? Kirk
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I just released the stave and there was no change so I used a thicker spacer and tried it again isolating the bend a little more. I guess we'll see.
Do you introduce any moisture or steam when you are trying to reshape the stave? Or do you just use heat? Kirk
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I appreciate the thought and effort, Kirk. I'll keep looking. Do you know anything about Cascamite glue? It seems to be a urea type glue also. I've heard it mentioned before but don't remember the results.
Usually with slight corrections I just use my heat gun. I get the wood just too hot to touch, clamp it on the form, reheat and let it sit until cool, usually over night. My initial attempt I released it after a few hours. It felt cool to the touch but it didn't help so I used a thicker block(3/8") reheated it well and left it overnight. That brought the offending back in line or almost so. I may do another session before glue up.
I did cut out the back profile on the belly and backing. I think I will glue on the riser so I can start the pre-tillering to get the limbs to bend evenly and together and get a good shape with the riser blending into the belly well.
(https://i.imgur.com/R5tOF9c.jpg)
back view
(https://i.imgur.com/HLGU6AC.jpg)
belly view
That far tip looks a bit off center so I will make an adjustment there before I go any further.
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"Do you know anything about Cascamite glue? It seems to be a urea type glue also. I've heard it mentioned before but don't remember the results."
I'm afraid not. Never worked with it. Sorry.... Kirk
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I glued the riser down to the belly...
(https://i.imgur.com/WF0RoLg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ORhHDFr.jpg)
...then started the tillering of the belly to get a good, even bend before glue up. At floor tiller it looked like she was bending pretty good so I placed her of the form to see just how good. The blocks on the form are 3 1/4" high where the tips rest. Then I draw the handle area down to see how the side view looks in reflex. I still need a little evening up on each limb...
(https://i.imgur.com/UG164AP.jpg)
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Pat
At camp now, been here 5 days:)
Prolly going home tomorrow, I can send you some unibond800 when I get home?
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Thanks, Roy. That would be great. Just let me know what I owe you. :thumbsup:
I still have some pre-tillering to do before glue up so at your convenience.
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Ok I'll be in touch.
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Lookin good Pat
Hurry up Roy, Fed X overnight :readit: :tongue:
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:thumbsup:
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I have a few questions…. I’m assuming you are flexing your limbs in the direction the bow will be drawn to do your floor tillering and even up the bends top and bottom.
So what exactly are you doing by putting reflex pressure on the limbs? You lost me on that one…
Secondly, are you planning on doing your backing layup in this reflex position? Sort of a Perry reflex theory?
These board bows are a whole different ball game than glass bows. I’m interested in learning more…. Kirk
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Kirk, yes, I bend the limb their normal bend direction during floor tiller but this just let me see each limb bend and feel their tension for comparison. I will be gluing the bow up in Patty reflex so I'm checking the bend of the limbs in reflex on the form. Once I get that smoothed out and both limbs bending evenly and together then it will be ready for glue up.
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It should help it from take to much set with the limbs bending better from the start. :thumbsup:
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That's right, Mark. The sooner you get good floor tiller shape the sooner you get to first brace and on out to full draw tiller. It puts less strain on the limbs.
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You ARE the man :notworthy: :notworthy:
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Did a little more this morning. Started reducing the limbs more concentrating on the flat areas. Then I put her on the form, bending towards the belly and used Eric Krewson's Gizmo to mark the flat spots so I know where to remove wood. At this point I'm only using a scraper so it goes a lot slower but makes it less likely I screw up. Doing just a little each day also helps to keep me from screwing up.
You can barely see the pencil marks in these pics. Too much glare to see it on here well.
(https://i.imgur.com/Do54Erd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ACacDul.jpg)
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How far do the limbs need to be drawn for the gizmo to be effective?
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Not far at all. The pencil point is adjustable by screwing it in or out. For shallow bend I have it set barely out.
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So brace height would be enough?
I'm going to have to make one of those :thumbsup:
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My form has 3 1/4" blocks on the ends so that's not much bend.
Eric probably has a "how to" here on TG. Look it up.
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Will do thanks.
I'm still trying to figure out how the bow is on the form bending toward the belly and you are able to use the gizmo in there?
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You use the Gizmo on the belly so it's bent the way a bow normally bends, in deflex. When I add the backing it will be bent the other way, in reflex.
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Just how I do it too Pat.
Here ya go Buggysboy:)
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108906.0
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OK, I get it :banghead: You are putting it on a reflexing form, belly up. My mind was stuck on laminating forms.
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Glue is on the way, Pat.
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Thanks, Roy. I really appreciate it. :notworthy:
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Pat, thanks for the build along. It may be early but what is the thickness of the hickory backing strip? Always enjoy reading your posts.
Bill
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No more than 1/8" thick for Hickory backing.
1/16" to 1/8"
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Bill, I'd say this hickory backing strip is a little less than 1/8". This backing strip was given to me and when I cut hickory backing strips I usually start at 3/16" and after dressing both sides they usually come out at 1/8" of slightly less. For some lighter wood bellies 1/16" would probably be fine.
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Well, I got it glued up just a few minutes ago(about 1:30). Even with forethought it's still a run around time for me during glue up...but I got 'er done. I mixed up well 5 grams of hardener with 75 grams of glue then spread it on both glue surfaces. Then I taped the back to the belly together to hold them while I wrapped both limbs with tire inner tube bands first, drew the handle area down to the form base with a large clamp with the tips on blocks about 3 1/4" above the base. Next added spring clamps along both sides of each limb and also added a small screw clamp at each tip.
Before I added the glue I put masking tape on the belly side of the belly, added Saran wrap to the form and around the glue up before adding the spring clamps. Now we wait. I'll give it until tonight or tomorrow before I release it all to see what I've got. Here are a few pics...
(https://i.imgur.com/YmkTQy7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/y17FQQW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IGLdygB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qOKcFjC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8V7BglQ.jpg)
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Looking good, Pat...
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Looks good. When I have glued up something I can hardly wait to get the clamps off.
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I just checked and the glue hasn't set up yet. I didn't put in the hot box but I will if it hasn't set in a few hours. My basement is just over 70 degrees so it will set up slower.
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OK, I just put the glue up in the hot box. Not sure what temp it will get to because I only have one 100w bulb in the box now. I'll check the temp in an hour or so.
BTW, the basement temp is about 75 degrees.
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Give it 24 hours, Pat.
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Whats the open, and set times of that glue?
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That's what I'll do, Roy. Inside the hotbox the temp is between 90 and 95 degrees now.
Marcia and I are heading to the farmers market tomorrow to buy boxes of tomatoes to put up so it will be probably about this time tomorrow before we get back and everything stashed. I'll start cooking down the tomatoes on Thursday.
Is there a too high temp? My hotbox has a thermostat that maxes out at 168 degrees.
at 70 degrees, 3 hours, at 80 degrees, 2 hours, at 90 degrees, 1 hour...from the Unibond directions.
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:jumper:
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90 to 95 is perfect Pat.
I would never cook a wooden bow above 100 degrees.
Those drying times are for flat unstressed glue up.
Buggs open work time is a good hour, starts to set time is about 4 hours.
24 hours at 90 and it's concrete.
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Just before Marcia and I left for the farmers market, about 10am, I turned off the hot box so the glue up could cool slowly. About 2:30, after we got home I opened the box and took the glue up and form out...
(https://i.imgur.com/qdSiAZW.jpg)
I removed the clamps and the rubber inner tube bands. With the tips on the table, belly up the handle back is 1 1/2" off the table. One limb has a little more reflex than the other and the glue lines look sloppy. I could tell the glue was fully cured because it only took a minute to draw blood from a sharp edge of glue.
Anyway, here are the limbs...
(https://i.imgur.com/stqbCWQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mmRhqWp.jpg)
I probably won't have time to work on the bow tomorrow. We bought 2, 25# boxes of Roma tomatoes, 8 or 10 bell peppers, about the same amount of onions and a few bulbs of garlic so I'll spend most of the day tomorrow processing tomato sauce to put in the freezer for later use.
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Been cut many times from that glue on the sides..
Doesn't look bad Pat.
Facets will clean up the sloppy glue lines on the edges.
I leave my belly lam wider than the backing and cut out close to the edge of the backing.
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What do you mean sloppy? The squeeze out should be blocking your view.
Have you cleaned up the sides yet?
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I haven't cleaned up the edges yet. I spent a half hour just trying to remove the masking tape from one limb I put on the belly to protect it from glue. Once I grind down the edges it will probably look better. I can see where the bands were stretched around the and the spring clamps were and can see where some of the problems are.
Also, she probably weighs 100# at least now so there will be a lot of reduction coming up.
I'll be working on tomatoes most of today so this bow is on the back burner at least until tomorrow.
Roy, I'm finding a few little cuts on my hands today. I should use work gloves for that.
I had rubber gloves on to keep from getting glue on them but my fingers pushed through as I rushed to get the glue spread evenly and the inner tube wrap on. Not being familiar working with the glue made me rush through the process. Anyway, it is what it is. We'll see how it turns out.
Thanks for the help and encouragement, guys. :thumbsup:
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Good luck Pat. I think about two or three years ago I bought Uni Bond from the same place as Roy. When I get a new glue I always do tests by gluing pieces of wood together and when cured fastening them in a vice and smashing them apart with a hammer. The various test pieces( different kinds of wood species) all came apart in the glue lines, no clean breaks in the wood as I like them to do. Have any of you tested Uni Bond in this way? I am experienced (I think I can say) when it comes to gluing up things. It was all done according to makers guidlines, fresh surfaces, some roughed up to various degrees and some just machine planed. Various temperatures were used. Maybe I am too thorough and bowlams would have held together fine?? Roy maybe you could do such a test for my peace of mind?
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Bue, After 100+ bows, I've never had a glue failure with unibond glue.
Pat, I use a lam padding on the back of the bow and use C clamps on 2 inch centers snugged down pretty snug.
I think you used a plastic spreader to apply the glue? I use a small paint brush and lay it on pretty heavy and get a lot of glue squeeze out.
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I understand Roy, but have you ever done such a test as I did. Things like that drives me nuts.
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I understand Roy, but have you ever done such a test as I did. Things like that drives me nuts.
Well Bue, you don't have far to go:) LOL
Nope never seen the need for that test.
All my failures were the wood letting go and the glue joint stayed intact.
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Roy, I didn't have anything to pad the backing strip with. I don't do enough glue up so it all new every time I do make one. :dunno: Same with the spatula,. That's what I used before. Next tome I'll use a brush. I think I had enough glue cause it got all over everything. I had rubber gloves on and as soon as I started working the glue my thumb went through the glove and on my hands. I'm pretty sloppy anyway so I guess it's par for the course with me. :laughing:
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Sounds good then Pat.
Ifin it comes out a mess, just ship it to the old guy KennyM, he could use a good bow:)
:laughing:
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That's not very nice, Roy and Kenny isn't even around to defend himself.
I got done with one 25# box of tomatoes...
(https://i.imgur.com/a4uC3b7.jpg)
...and went to the shop to sand the edges of the bow. Not as bad as I thought...
(https://i.imgur.com/skI8f55.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8xaoQto.jpg)
On a side note I checked my trail cam today. Guess who's peeking...
(https://i.imgur.com/O09EUuZ.jpg)
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Bow looks nice, Tomatoes look great.
You like that glue?
The ole boy will have a come back soon. LOL
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Looks like you got a real tight glue line :thumbsup:
Also looks like all those good smells are attracting the neighbors!
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I do like the glue, Roy. It is very similar to Urac. Now if I can get the weight off of it and if the locust belly holds up I might just have a shooter. :thumbsup:
I have the trail cam down in the lower part of our property on a Cousa dogwood with big red fruit. I noticed a limb broken off a few days ago so I put the camera there. I'd like to get a better pic of him.
Buggs, we have plenty of bears around and their populations are on the rise along with their weights. I just put out bird feeders today and have to remember to take them in each night or they will be gone.
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Nice pat :bigsmyl:
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I finally started tillering this bow today. I wanted to be sure the glue had set and cooled significantly before L stressed it. :bigsmyl:
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Glue otta be cool by now, it seems like a year since ya glued it up..
:laughing:
:wavey:
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Best excuse I could think of at the time. :wavey:
I've tillered it down to 38"@20" about 10# over my intended 45#@26". I'll post some pics tomorrow.
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Pat are you going to bring this one and the sinew one to the Classic??
Git busy :tongue:
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That's my plan, Mark.
This bow has a locust belly and locust and I aren't very copacetic and one limb has a knot crossing the belly. :dunno:
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Maybe it will work out Pat :archer2:
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I got a bunch done today. One place I'm a bit concerned about is this knot that runs across the top limb...
(https://i.imgur.com/Wn342xk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xvu636t.jpg)
you can see it at about mid limb.
Here is braced...
(https://i.imgur.com/y67JdgD.jpg)
...a little over half draw...
(https://i.imgur.com/4hLPdcz.jpg)
...and full draw(26")
(https://i.imgur.com/qMLaWmN.jpg)
Not my best job at tiller but it is what it is. I still need to add tip overlays and reshape the limb tips. She draws 42#@26", just under what I was shooting for. She does feel good in the hand with good early draw weight. I'll shoot her some later and report back. I have her sweating at brace and will leave her braced for a few hours.
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Oh boy, Pat.
I hope she stays together for you.
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Yeah, me too, Roy. I shot about 15 arrows just a while ago. Shoots well but with some hand shock. Once I narrow and shape the tips I think she'll smooth out. I just glued down tip overlays so I'll shape the tips tomorrow, add a leather overlay to round out the handle back then do a hemp cord wrap with floppy rest. After that it's finish sanding and 5 or 6 coats of Tru-Oil.
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Cool beans Pat.
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Just glue on some horn on the belly for a horn bow :cheesy:
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Mark, I have a set of buff horn but I ain't got that far into that kind of stuff...yet.
I narrowed the tips and added mahogany overlays(TBIII)...
(https://i.imgur.com/SeytP2R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/joddDBU.jpg)
..of course the dogs are doing what they like to do on a rainy day.
...and I added the leather handle overlay to fill out the back of the handle. Once the glue dries(TBIII)I'll shape it to the handle...
(https://i.imgur.com/X5b9vJR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kx7r9aU.jpg)
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Sweet.. Loved the dogs...
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Dogs are a must. I don't know how folks live without them. These dogs are masters at laying around and they have 9 beds around the house and on the porch to choose from. :dunno: :saywhat:
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Camp Dogs LOL
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Looking good Pat.
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And doggie gots it’s own lil teddy bear! :thumbsup:
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You mean like these...
(https://i.imgur.com/lhh3NO6.jpg)
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The toy box is full.. LOL
[ You are not allowed to view attachments ]
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...and every time our daughter visits we get at least 2 more. :dunno:
Rosie the yellow dog is the toy freak. She loves them all. Maggie the black dog is more into real bears and coyotes. She will nuggie a toy occasionally but they really aren't her thing.
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:thumbsup:
Looking good Pat
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Thanks, Mark. She's coming along. :thumbsup:
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I think that Mr. Bill toy is worth a few thousand clams. :o
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Send me $50.00 and it's yours:)
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I shaped the leather back overlay and dyed the bow's back with Fiebings medium leather dye then started with Tru-Oil finish...
(https://i.imgur.com/PSHjRsi.jpg)
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Looks nice, Pat..
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Very good.
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Thanks, guys. :thumbsup:
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Here is a side view of the handle area.
(https://i.imgur.com/xxvr2z5.jpg)
I'm on the 2nd coat of Tru-Oil. Once I get as few more around the handle I'll add the Floppy Rest then a hemp cord wrap on the handle. It's raining today so the Tru-Oil curing will be a bit slower.
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Looks nice Pat.
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Got a few more coats of Tru-Oil on today and added the floppy rest. Will wrap the handle tomorrow with hemp cord and set that in Massey finish then when that cures she'll be ready for more shooting. :thumbsup: :archer2:
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Massey finish, do you wipe yours on Pat??.
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=145963.0
I have done it before Devcon 2 ton epoxy .84 fluid oz. and 1/3 cup of Acetone , I double the recipe for about 6 coats out of a spray gun (1 coat every 30 min.), very shiny, I dull it down with 0000 steel wool and us a 3M Final finishing pad to finish it. you can scrub it as hard as you want to polish.
https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-31345-Ton-Clear-Epoxy/dp/B0006O8QQ0
https://www.amazon.com/3M-10199NA-8-Inch-Finishing-2-Pack/dp/B007FXKGAO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
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Mark, I only use the Massey finish to set the cord wrap on the handle and not as a bow finish. I don't measure the ingredient but mix up a wad of 2 ton epoxy add enough acetone to make it watery then daub it on the cord wrap.
This helps seal the handle, helps stick the wrap to the handle and gives it a positive grip. I have pics of my process that I'll post when I look them up.
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:thumbsup:
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Mark, I can't find the pics but I'll take new ones as I do the handle wrap and Massey finish soak.
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Ok cool
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Here goes the handle wrap.
You have to be sure you wrap the cord the correct direction, going the way your fingers point. If you go the other direction the wrap can loosen over time.
I start the wrap at the top of the handle ares, under the floppy rest for this bow. I lay the tag end along the back of the bow and wrap the cord over the tag...
(https://i.imgur.com/wUT07ry.jpg)
...and wrap 10 or so wraps over the tag...
(https://i.imgur.com/vyWjqW0.jpg)
clip off the tag and continue on...
(https://i.imgur.com/JTfs004.jpg)
When you get near the bottom of the handle lay a separate loop down ans wrap over it...
(https://i.imgur.com/LpqGdTz.jpg)
once you get to the bottom of the handle cut the cord and stick the end through the loop and pull the end of the cord through under the wrap and pull tight then clip the excess cord...
(https://i.imgur.com/PynqjiY.jpg)
...after the handle wrap is complete I like to singe the loose threads that stick out with a cigarette lighter. I didn't take a pic of this.
Now, get the Massey finish ready to saturate the cord wrap. These are what you need to do this...
(https://i.imgur.com/JMDF3i4.jpg)
I'll do the mixing and saturating tomorrow.
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Here is my process for saturating the cord wrap handle. I use 2 paper towels folded and rolled up for the applicator...
(https://i.imgur.com/ZeAUBtI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x6t0e4m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TLBzWIg.jpg)
then I put a wad of 2ton epoxy in a clean container and mix it well...
(https://i.imgur.com/qWKMked.jpg)
then pour about 1/3 of this container with acetone and mix it until the epoxy dissolves...
(https://i.imgur.com/WN6fa1f.jpg)
..and use the rolled paper towel applicator to saturate the cord on the handle. I use as much as it will take...
(https://i.imgur.com/PDdifSx.jpg)
once the wrap is saturated it time to wait for the acetone to evaporate and the epoxy to cure. I don't use any particular recipe. It really doesn't seem to matter for this application.
(https://i.imgur.com/H8un9I7.jpg)
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I forgot to show the Floppy Rest applied. I use a sharp razor to bevel the edges that will be under the wrap so the wrap will be smooth.
This bow is symmetrical so I grab the handle with my middle finger at the middle of the handle(balance point) and put a mark on the handle at the top of my hand. This is where the rest of the floppy will be. I use contact cement on the bow and floppy Rest, let both dry well then put them together.
(https://i.imgur.com/07gHnui.jpg)
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Looks good Pat
I always though the epoxy would make the wrap hard and uncomfortable to hold??
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It does make it hard but I don't find it uncomfortable. You can try it at the Classic. :thumbsup:
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I got her finished up today. I shoot another 25 arrows through her this morning and she shoots quite well. There is still a little hand shock but not bad. After being braced for an hour and shooting 25 arrows she still held 1" of reflex immediately after unbracing. Her draw weight is 43#@26" but she seems to shoot more like a 50# bow.
(https://i.imgur.com/DGqzU5b.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yX4e1Yn.jpg)
The string does track off the left side of the bow. That must have happened at glue up. Not much to do about that now but she still shoots fine.
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Looks very nice, Pat...
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Looking very good.
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Cool Pat :thumbsup: