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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Appalachian Hillbilly on October 27, 2022, 01:55:36 PM
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Ok, after being out of the shop for over a month, it is time to get back at it.
One piece longbows are on the menu so that means a new oven. Batting around several ideas. Incorporate it into a new workbench with an under the bench design. Over the workbench and use the bottom of the oven to have brackets and hangers for my common used tools and a work light or an upright oven to put in the corner.
Either design will be well insulated and designed to make use as easy as possible. Drawer slides and racks if needed etc.
Looking for alternative heat sources such as base board heater etc to make space more usable.
Ken
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Mine is mounted on the wall with storage above and below the oven.
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Door drops down easy to load. I like it!!
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Make it so you can load it easy. Mine is on the floor and it is a pain to put the bow in. But it slides under a bench when not in use.
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I'm thinking a folding foam box and just leave the form on the bench and set the foam box over it. Maybe a center divider for TD limbs. Just need to figure out a heat source.
The floor models are a pain to get the form in and out of.
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Mine is on the wall and opens up, with that stick holding it up I can use it like a table or I can open it all the way up with a hook on the wall and its easy to load. My shop is very small so it works good for me.
(https://i.imgur.com/oS0CQ5s.jpg)
Here it is with it open and I do all my glue up's here, plenty of room to lay out all the lams.
(https://i.imgur.com/XaZ9DJJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2nrpeQ7.jpg)
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Those front loading wall mount boxes are nice :thumbsup:
If I were to build another, I would laminate rigid foil faced rock wool panels onto 1/8" plywood and make it knockdown unit. A modified baseboard heat element or circulating hot air blower for heat.
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Great ideas guys. Right now I am leaning towards an above the bench, front loading, gas shocks or springs on door to hold open, and maybe a baseboard strip heater with an Inkbird controller. Well insulate it and make the underneath to hang tools on.
Got a little money from another job to spend on this, so I want to do it nice.
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I like the looks of those inkbird controllers :thumbsup:
If i had to do it again i think i'd just use a couple 500 watt halogen light fixtures and possibly a small squirrel cage fan for heat circulation. cost effective me thinks.... Kirk
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I used a 250 W red brooder/heat lamp when i raised my chicks this spring. Almost bought this instead
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7Y1T2S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08J7Y1T2S&pd_rd_w=WtNsz&content-id=amzn1.sym.46bad5f6-1f0a-4167-9a8b-c8a82fa48a54&pf_rd_p=46bad5f6-1f0a-4167-9a8b-c8a82fa48a54&pf_rd_r=7H0PB6EAQK35RX34C62Y&pd_rd_wg=k1fOe&pd_rd_r=7b3bc4d7-6a55-4353-b047-5c070b2f471f&s=lawn-garden&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&smid=A1EXXUJBXBLFR9
Pros,cons what do you all think?
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The nice thing about using a heat source other than incandescents(UGH) is, anything is more efficient and you can shrink the size of your oven substantially. Between the fixture and the bulb you need 6" or more of head/side room.
Thats a lot of wasted shop space, space to heat and materials. For a bow sized box, 100watts of halogen puck lights is enough, or 300watts of baseboard element. They are both low profile options.
A fan is a very efficient addition. Anybody who has cooked in a convection oven, knows how hot and fast they work compared to a standard oven. A little 4" fan will supercharge your box.
That heater is probably not the best choice. It's radiant, which is not for space heating and its got a big footprint for only 140watts.
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Makes sense Buggs! Electrical is one thing in life thats beyond my understanding :bigsmyl:
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You've mentioned these 100 watt halogen puck lights a couple times Buggs. I'm curious what they look like, and type of fixture used to plug em in , or are they screw in bulbs? Got a link to something?
I'd like to build a small box with a couple 100 watt bulbs to heat my boat in winter storage when it gets real cold.
Kirk
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Here you go Kirk. You can get them up to 200 watts.
https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Emitter-Infrared-Reptile-Chicken/dp/B09KQS82LW/ref=asc_df_B09KQS82LW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563772978164&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15128292842818892692&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010321&hvtargid=pla-1594467267482&psc=1#
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Those emitters are great! I've got one in my pump house to keep things from freezing. But actually I was referring to these;
The great thing about these lights is that they, like incandescents are also very inefficient and put out a lot of heat.
And they are cheap! And they come with little parabolic dishes! Four 25watt pucks easily match 300-400watts of space hog bulbs. Just make sure to get ones with metal housings, I melted some plastic ones. They run on DC and have a mini inline transformer, so they are typically plug and play.
Hillbilly, something to consider if you are upgrading to an Inkbird controller. The PID will cycle on and off hundreds of times , maybe more, during a multi hour cure. Thats a lot of stress on a light emitting filament. Baseboard element would hold up better in that environment.
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So the bulbs are replaced like this fixture and can accommodate from 18 watt to 135 watt bulbs?
I’ve seen them with dimmer switches too.
https://www.amazon.com/DORESshop-Dimmable-Lifetime-Landscape-Chandeliers/dp/B09LQYYWBL/ref=sr_1_26_sspa?crid=UFAWAB5KPTFY&keywords=halogen+puck+lights&qid=1667144413&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjAwIiwicXNhIjoiNC4xNyIsInFzcCI6IjMuNjMifQ%3D%3D&s=hi&sprefix=Halogen+light+pucks%2Ctools%2C160&sr=1-26-spons&psc=1
So are you saying that the off/on cycling used in a hot box with a temp controller is hard on these halogen bulbs? How is it any different than an incandescent bulb?
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It would be hard on any "light" bulb that has a filament. Not sure about using one of those ceramic emitters with a controller, but an electric baseboard type element holds up to the prolonged on/off cycling.
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I was thinking those base board heaters would be much more expensive to run. I know trying to heat a house with them will run you into the poor house.
I'm going to order a couple of these halogen pucks and try them out in my spray booth and see how they compare to the 150 watt incandescent bulbs. I really like the low profile fixtures.
Kirk
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ET6DAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Bugs, I already use an Inkbird controller in my current oven that uses incandescent lights.
It does not rapidly cycle them at all. You can program the delta T and how much you want it to swing. You can even program it to do it in steps. I have it paired with a timer as well.
I also use heat 300 water heat lamps and not lights. You get more heat than light.
A baseboard would be compact but may not be as responsive as pucks or lamps.
It has a timer function but I do not want it to repeat every day . They are worth every dime.
If there is no hysteresis in the circuit , you can get the rapid cycling. I also have mine insulated pretty good.
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You using a PID Hillbilly?
I don't get rapid cycling, but it does cycle on and off a lot modulating temp.
Does your controller have ramp/soak function?
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Here you go Buggs
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Electronic-Temperature-Germination-Controlling/dp/B01486LZ50/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_sp_1_0?adgrpid=58602327720&content-id=amzn1.sym.e1d0fd65-dbff-454d-9e35-926f4c285911%3Aamzn1.sym.e1d0fd65-dbff-454d-9e35-926f4c285911&cv_ct_cx=inkbird+temperature+controller&gclid=CjwKCAjw5P2aBhAlEiwAAdY7dFRxbsaoQ28gzIJkEy3G-gpHjFllCmqC6OVvX_0YH-PE5vo1Qn_UHhoCFZwQAvD_BwE&hvadid=583866772541&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9010321&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=18179376325249153990&hvtargid=kwd-299623784374&hydadcr=955_1014988408&keywords=inkbird+temperature+controller&pd_rd_i=B01486LZ50&pd_rd_r=9448594c-adb7-4f04-b781-e473c1abd70f&pd_rd_w=vWZj4&pd_rd_wg=5HbVq&pf_rd_p=e1d0fd65-dbff-454d-9e35-926f4c285911&pf_rd_r=Y55P76QJNV4HJACQ8313&psc=1&qid=1667232515&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjIyIiwicXNhIjoiMi44OSIsInFzcCI6IjIuNzMifQ%3D%3D&sr=1-1-3a65484d-1c95-4bed-b564-9469fdeef107
. Not your old school PID controller where you had access to all the parameters. I used to use Auburn PID controllers on my powder coat ovens I built.
These are much easier since we are not actually measuring the temp of the bow and controlling off that. We are just measuring free air temp and holding it.
I generally set a 5 degree swing and it does not cycle excessively.
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I've got a couple of those type units for greenhouse heat mats. Unfortunately they are 110v, which limits your potential heat source. No baseboard element with that unit.
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If you want to run 220 with those, you can use a solid state relay. Did that with my powder coat ovens.
You just have to find one with 120v control side
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When you say "those" are you referring to the element or the controller?
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Either. I think the Inkbird is rated for 1200 watts.wpuld have to look that up. Baseboards are probably going to be more than that so you would need a relay to use with the inkbird.
The other PID controllers I used had either 10 amp dry contacts or a low amperage 120 out put to run switches, alarms, contractors etc.
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I had no idea you could run 220v off a 120v temp controller. Could you share your knowledge of any extra equipment needed for this? I only have so many 220v outlets and it would be great to free one up.
I' using a 18" element, rated at 300w, which is way more than enough for 10cuft of heat box.
Circulation fan is the key ingredient.
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What kind of fan to take the heat of the oven ?
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I had no idea you could run 220v off a 120v temp controller.
If I'm understanding AH correctly, he is just suggesting using the controller to trigger a relay that actually handles the power to the heating element. All you would need for that is a relay that will take a 120V signal and handle 220V and whatever amps you need for the element.
Mark
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Yup all ya need is a 120 volt relay coil with heavier contacts to handle the current draw of the heater assy.
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Roy is correct. The extra relay is basically a switch that uses the 110 to switch in a set of heavier duty contacts. These can be mechanical relays with coils, or solid state relays. The solid state usually have a smaller form factor and no moving parts.
If anyone has specific questions, pm me. This is part of what I do for a living. We have a bunch of extrusion coating and use a ton of heating elements.
Ken
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I have 220 volt baseboard heaters in my shop.
I run them off a thermostat which picks the 110 volt relay and that supplies the 220 volts to the baseboard heaters.
That is when I don't have the wood burner cranking.
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I have 220 volt baseboard heaters in my shop.
I run them off a thermostat which picks the 110 volt relay and that supplies the 220 volts to the baseboard heaters.
That is when I don't have the wood burner cranking.
How big is your shop Roy? I can’t imagine using baseboard heaters as being the most cost effective heat source. But…. If you have a wood stove I can see it.
I got rid of my wood stove in my shop and went to a propane heater. It’s more cost effective, and a lot less work than muscling wood. I was burning 4-5 cords a year heating with wood. But…. I’ve got a big uninsulated area to heat. My work area is 24x36 in summer, but I use arctic curtains in winter heating 24x24 with 10’ ceilings. (The green plastic is seriously heavy stuff.)
This is what I put in my shop.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HvMaPEQbNVckF599A
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Ever consider a mini split system?
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My shop is 14 x 28 concrete block with 2x4 walls added on inside, and knowing I was using electric heat, I super insulated the walls and ceiling.
However I have a wood stove also that I use as my main heat, and I need to be careful with it cause it will chase you out. More than once I've had the windows and door open to cool things down.