Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Roy from Pa on November 23, 2022, 11:05:43 AM
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Osage belly, purple heart core lams backed wif boo.
Osage came from Kenny M.
I prefer 1/4 sawn lams.
I run the Osage lams through the drum sander to an even 1/4" thickness.
https://youtube.com/shorts/4s7K3nzYsnU
Then do a Z splice and glue up with EA40.
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Purple heart is tapered from 1/8th thick at riser to 1/16th thick at tips.
https://youtube.com/shorts/SG_Wluj3sjQ
Patterns for taper rate were supplied from Kenny M.
Cutting out a section of bamboo, I split it with a machette.
How I flatten the belly side of the boo.
At this point the nodes are not a problem, I just need a flat surface to layout my bows pattern.
https://youtube.com/shorts/1l08d81pS4A
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I string the center line on the boo and cut that pattern out.
I then sand to the line and then taper the boo from 1/8th at the riser to 1/16th at the tips.
Before glue up, I lay all 3 pieces together and string end to end again to get it straight. Then I drill 2 holes in the riser section where the leather grip will cover them later, and drill a hole on each side of the tips for toothpicks to hold things straight when gluing up.
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My form with the padding on it to protect the Osage from clamp damage.
I can position the mid limb center posts to get more or less deflex or reflex.
Wrapped in plastic wrap and clamped up on 2 inch spacing and the back of the boo is protected with little sections of bamboo cut out. I alternate the clamp position from side to side.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8EvGPxXyq8
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Of course we wanna see it and I am getting a bit envious seeing that nice piece of yellow wood. :)
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I leave it in the hot box for 24 hours at 85 degrees.
https://youtu.be/S58S0t5LF6U
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Ok I've had my stress test posting all those pictures and videos for now:)
Seems videos only post in here as a picture if you hold the phone in a horizontal position to video. Vertical they come out as a text link? LOL
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Have you ever used Unibond for gluing a BBO?
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All the time for the lams. I use EA40 only for the Z splice and tip overlays.
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Bout time! Was just thinking yesterday that you ought to do another tri lam build. :thumbsup:
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Snowed out of the camp? Always like to see ya work! :goldtooth:
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Any tricks for making the Z splice. Or is it cut it on a bandsaw and hope.
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Matter of fact yes kinda. They got a lot of snow up there and the road into camp has a 200 yard long very steep hill that gets very ice covered cause it doesn't get any sunshine on it.
And I miss making bows:)
I layout the Z splice with a ruler then I cut it out on the bandsaw just leaving the line.
Then I fine tune it with my bench belt sander. The belt sander has that narrow backing plate that only goes about half way up the back of the belt. So I slide the Z splice into just the belt right above that backing plate. Simple as chit. I keep working it till I get a perfect fit. I Iike to have maybe a 1/64th gap for glue to settle into.
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Yesssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ! Always
1/8" at the center of riser or at the tip of the fades???
Very exciting watching all those pieces going threw the sander in super slow mode. :bigsmyl:
You use lams on the form to protect the Osage?
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Yes I do too. Build away. JF
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Yesssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ! Always
1/8" at the center of riser or at the tip of the fades???
Very exciting watching all those pieces going threw the sander in super slow mode. :bigsmyl:
You use lams on the form to protect the Osage?
Center of riser.
I slowed it down so you could comprendo there snickles:)
Yes old lams, had the same pair for years.
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Then do a Z splice and glue up with EA40.
It's always great to see your builds, Roy.
I just wanted to throw something out there about the Z-splice. Since it's on the compression side and you are gluing a handle over that area anyway, why not use just a 30 or 45 degree angle cut across the lams? It's easier to get a good tight glue joint with everything straight (though I think you have enough extra width that isn't a problem for you) and the strength of the joint is more than adequate for the job.
Just a thought...
Mark
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Just the way I was taught, Mark.
It just stuck with me, plus getting a nice Z splice is always a challenge.
LOL
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Just the way I was taught, Mark.
It just stuck with me, plus getting a nice Z splice is always a challenge.
LOL
Nothing wrong with that and I understand challenging yourself to get it right. Once hunting season is over here I will be back to working on my next bow and I plan on using a 30 degree angle cut to splice the core and belly lam pieces together, so I will see if I have it right or not.
Mark
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Roy I think I can picture what you are doing with the sander. We must have different sanders. I have a 6 x 80 griz and a 6 x 48 delta. The griz might work.
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I'm talking about a 1 inch wide vertical belt sander with an 8 inch round flat dics on the side.
Sounds good. Mark.
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Fresh out of the form.
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Ok I have one of them. I will have to try it.
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That is some good looking osage.
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Right out of the form.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmwI6iv8798
I lay the 12 inch purple heart riser on it's side and trace the arc of the bows riser onto it, then cut it out and sand for a perfect fit.
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Oldrawhide, this is my small belt sander and I slide the Z splice into just the belt where the arrow is. At that point the belt is very flexible. I may have to sand it 5 or 6 times to get a good fit.
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Roy thanks i can see what you are doing now. I will try it if I ever build a wood bow .
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It makes it so easy to get a perfect fit.
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Thanks, Roy. Nice build along. :thumbsup:
That is some nice osage.
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Thanks Pat.
Kenny sent me the Osage 2 years ago and it is at 10% moisture content and very sweet. About 3 or 4 more bows left in it too:)
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:thumbsup:
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Nice Roy :thumbsup:
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Thanks Mark..
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Very nice Roy I am enjoying this, very cool :clapper:
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Did you offset the riser on this one?? :thumbsup:
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Not yet, still contemplating it:)
Been 2 years since I did the last bow so my brain is a little rusty:)
Kenny, don't even say it:)
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Not yet, still contemplating it:)
Been 2 years since I did the last bow so my brain is a little rusty:)
Kenny, don't even say it:)
Sure that was a typo. You probably meant dusty. :)
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Thanks for the build-along Roy! Looking forward to the rest of your process.
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I figured ya was just short on kindlin... :biglaugh:
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Nope, I gots a lot of wood...
:wavey: :laughing:
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Oh, I heard ya was a little short... :saywhat:
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Roy, you probably mentioned it and I probably missed it, but what is the width of your center and belly stock in the initial lay-up?
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1.75" Mike.
My bows are 1.25 at the flares.
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1.75" Mike.
My bows are 1.25 at the flares.
Thanks, I have some wood that could make a decent no glass tr lam ASL.
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While we're asking questions, how long and what weight?
Mark
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64" tip to tip, I'm shooting for around 35 pounds. At my age that is a comfortable weight for me to shoot.
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Trimmed the limbs up almost down to the riser and put the horn tip overlays on. Can't cut out the rest of the bow till I glue the riser on.
Putting a thin lam of curly maple between the riser block and Osage belly.
In the hot box to cure the EA40.
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looking good!
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This is taking forever :laughing:
Someone else said that before
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Looking good ol timer. Good to see ya back in the shop.
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This is taking forever :laughing:
Someone else said that before
Patience grass hopper:)
Thanks Brad...
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ribbit
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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thanks for the entertaining thread Roy! Always interesting to take a look into foreign workshops. Looking forward to see your results!
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Wife and I have come down with the flu bug about 4 days ago.
I'll get back to the bow asap...
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Damn, hope you guys get better soon. Just tuned in, and enjoying the BBO master class!
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Dang buddy, hope you get perkin better!!
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Where's the dang grill?!? :dunno: Oh. Wait. :readit: I thought Roy was building a BBQ not a BBO....
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Nevermind....
:banghead:
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There could be a bbq at the end of this.... :laughing:
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:campfire: :deadhorse:
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There could be a bbq at the end of this.... :laughing:
Ya never know smart a$$..
:laughing:
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:campfire: :coffee:
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There could be a bbq at the end of this.... :laughing:
Sounds like the roasting has already began here. :biglaugh:
Hope ya get to feeling better before that bow takes a set for the worse. Kirk
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What's the holdup? Shipping is slow and I'm waiting!! :biglaugh:
Hope you and Chris are feeling better bro... :thumbsup:
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Getting there slowly, not good for her missing half a lung...
Thanks bro
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:pray:
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I hope you both are feeling better soon take care .
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Get better soon, Roy. You don't want folks to think you are as slow as I am. :laughing:
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Got the riser pieces glued on today.
I'm feeling a little better but momma has a follow-up Dr appointment Monday.
She had half her left lung removed 3 years ago from cancer so we really need to be careful about this flu virus affecting her lungs.
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I’m glad that you are feeling better Roy. Hopefully nothing but good news from the doc on Monday. Take your time with the bow, I like the anticipation…
Dave.
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I’m glad that you are feeling better Roy. Hopefully nothing but good news from the doc on Monday. Take your time with the bow, I like the anticipation…
Dave.
x2 :thumbsup:
Looking good buddy
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Glad to hear you are pulling out of it.... Well wishes for your other half..... Kirk
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Thanks guys. Momma is doing better now and I am too.
I'll be back in the shop tomorrow.
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That's Awesome, feeling better
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Glad you both are doing better. Don't forget your dust mask.
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:thumbsup: Nice!
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Got the bow cut out and cleaned up.
Next thing will be rasping the facets in on the sides belly and back.
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https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8mID2S2Tu2c
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I'm really digging this build up. Thanks for sharing.
Question on Unibond again...Does it require the heat box or could it dry at room temp?
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Question on Unibond again...Does it require the heat box or could it dry at room temp?
No it does not require a heat box, it will dry in 24 hours at 70 degrees.
But do not let it get any colder than 70 degrees.
Some guys throw a blanket over the bow form and place a light bulb under it to keep the temp up.
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Will you be keeping that fade angle on the riser? Seems a little abrupt.
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The riser will be rounded off a little Mike.
4 inches of the center of the riser is the handle grip area.
And the ends of the riser will be feathered into the limb.
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The riser will be rounded off a little Mike.
4 inches of the center of the riser is the handle grip area.
And the ends of the riser will be feathered into the limb.
Watching 👀
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Neither Unibond nor EA-40 "require" a hot box to cure. They only need temps above 70F for 24 hours. Hot boxes are for production builders, or really old guys who need to get bows done before they get much older.
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Hot boxes are for production builders, or really old guys who need to get bows done before they get much older.
Ah Ken, what's ya saying there?> LOL
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Well Roy , I'm purty sure you ain't a production builder ... :biglaugh:
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Neither Unibond nor EA-40 "require" a hot box to cure. They only need temps above 70F for 24 hours. Hot boxes are for production builders, or really old guys who need to get bows done before they get much older.
Or guy's that don't live in Florida! Its easier to heat 10 cubic ft of box to 150deg, than 3,200 cuft of shop to 70deg.
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BTW, I have a bow Roy made and it's waaay better than a production bow... :thumbsup:
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Neither Unibond nor EA-40 "require" a hot box to cure. They only need temps above 70F for 24 hours. Hot boxes are for production builders, or really old guys who need to get bows done before they get much older.
I like Uni Bond for doing a lot of laminations like building a butcher block, or parkey pattern desk top, or furniture with dark wood. The blanket over a light bulb works well in cooler weather.
I can't remember the last time i used my hot box on anything. I'm not what i call a production builder, but typically build 30-40 custom bows a year, & i use heat strips in my bow forms... Great for old guys that dont like lifting heavy forms in and out of a hot box, and your forms last much longer too....
Kirk
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Lookin okay so far Roy
:laughing:
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Thanks Josh, I need to get back to the shop soon. Many things going on here as of late.
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Sorry guys it's taking some time here.
I got a bad reaction from IPE 10 years ago that messed up my immune system. Well this is my first bow with purple heart and it's causing me problems. My face is burning, my lips are chapped and my hands are itchy as heck and I'm stuffy.
I've since then gone to more protection. I have the bow on the tillering tree and it's looking good. I have a bunch of pictures and a few videos. I'll get those up soon.
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Roy take care of yourself there hope you feeling better soon. :thumbsup:
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Few pictures of rough shaping the riser in.
This is the process that got me messed up:)
Tips roughed in.
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I do not use those real long tillering strings. My first string is locked into the string grooves and it lays snug against the belly of the bow.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/IbS4GuiJtyw
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This video may make you sea sick:) It's hard to hold the phone still and pull the tillering rope at the same time.
I tiller for equal limb timing and I want the pull rope to track that black center line on the wall. You can see it is drifting to the left 1/4" towards the bottom limb. That means the limb to the left is stronger than the right limb so I will need to remove some wood off the left limb. I want that pull rope tracking the line ASAP and I will not pull the bow any further till I achieve that tracking.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Tm_a0qn4YTw
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After a couple hundred pulls and removing wood several times from the left limb and working the rope down the tree, the pull rope now tracks the line. It's being pulled to 19 inches down the tree here, but still with the long string on the bow. And after 6 beers, I thought it wise to stop tillering cause too many beers can do bad things to a wood bow:)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur49V1O-5Xg
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Am i seeing a sort of power lam under the purple heart of the riser?
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Wouldn't call it a power lam, just wanted to add a different color in there.
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And after 6 beers, I thought it wise to stop tillering cause too many beers can do bad things to a wood bow:)
It would have been over for me after two!
Bow looks great :thumbsup: I like the Purpleheart, that sucks that it messes you up. What do you use to scrape off the Bamboo rind?
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This made out of stainless...
I use a triangle metal file to sharpen it.
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Good call on the beer :thumbsup:
Looks like you ain't fergot too much :smileystooges:
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Nice Roy :bigsmyl:
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Back at it after getting a full face respirator that works great with no fogging of the lens. The bow had way too much weight for me cause I never used purple heart before and didn't know it is very strong wood.
So I had to grind both limbs down on the edges using the edge sander which is always a challenge. Then I had to redo the facets. Strung her up and had some slight limb twist so corrected that. Here she is first time strung up after all the above. Looks pretty darn good to me at 4.5" brace height. Now I can start tillering again.
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He's alive!!! :biglaugh:
Lookin good buddy! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Is that your full draw pic, Roy? :laughing:
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Well, at that age....Oh nevermind
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:smileystooges:
:campfire:
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Done tillered but dumb ass Roy did not wear the mask while tillering and scraping, so now my face is burnt again...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbHHStWU8UE
Still need to shape the grip area of the riser. You can bet I will be all covered up when I do that.....
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Dang bud! The PH is bad stuff for you. Coco does same to me!
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That has a beautiful bend to it at that brace height….. :clapper:
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nice looking brace profile, Roy :thumbsup:
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Looking good. How long is the riser?
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Very nice Roy! Sorry to hear about the wood reaction, I guess we gotta wear the mask or :deadhorse: hope you feel better soon. The bow is looking great.
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Thanks guys.
Bue the riser is 12 inches...
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Annie paid me a visit and she always leaves with some deer antlers:)
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Doesn't seem like long ago she was a pup!! :)
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Turned 8 past December.
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That’s how old Zwickey is too, startin to show her age and not gettin around real well...
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Is that your full draw pic, Roy? :laughing:
Thought this should be posted again :wavey:
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Nuff outta you goober-boy:)
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Roy
I can't remember, is you riser able to pivot? that spring clamp isn't much to hold it to the tiller tree.
When you shoot (or the way your tiller tree set up) is your whole palm pushing the bow or just the crotch of your thumb and index finger?
Doing the math and holding the bow with a arrow on the shelf (split finger), my middle finger is just under a 1/2" under the shelf (my pull hook is 1/2" under the shelf) and make the hook not drift left or right.
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The bow doesn't pivot because the limb timing balance are timed right from the very first pull on the tree. If it wasn't balanced the bow would pivot on the cradle even when clamped down. I only need to pull the tree rope a couple inches and I can see which limb is stronger and I address that "right away" till the rope tracks the line. I can leave the clamp off and the bow doesn't pivot. I just clamp it incase I would bump the bow and knock it off the cradle.
Another thing you need to consider is when your bow is done and you are shooting, the nocking point on the string is usually 1/2" + or - a tad to get good arrow flight. I shoot 3 fingers under and my nocking point is usually 5/8th above the shelf on all my bows, even glass recurves. So I set the tree up taking the 5/8th higher nocking point on the string into consideration. And I place the nocking point at 5/8th high when the bow is all done.. When I shoot my BBO bows my palm is pretty much flat on the grip with a tad more pressure at the shelf. When I shoot my recurves and they have more of a pistol grip, I hold the bow with my thumb and fore finger and let my other finger's hang free and the pull weight of the bow is all in the web between my thumb and fore finger. I have a wrist strap on my recurve and I just let the bow pivot forward after I shoot.
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Hang free! Thats going to be my new mantra.
I've seen that style of grip before......
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Hang free! Thats going to be my new mantra.
I've seen that style of grip before......
I see that you are a man of culture and proper upbringing… 😉
Dave.
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Thanks Roy :thumbsup:
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Good stuff Roy, thanks for sharing! :notworthy:
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Thanks Roy. I've been watchin. Realy nice job.
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Thanks Robin.