Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: ARTHUR Nicholas on December 06, 2022, 04:42:40 PM
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To all that build the asl bows do u see a difference in running a thin lam and glass up riser or just glass besides fit at fads. Thanks
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I like to run a thin lam or a reverse taper up
The belly ramp under the glass. I believe it gives better stress relief than just going with the glass, especially if you are using the Traditional 14” Riser and putting the riser on top of the stack and using the steep belly Ramps of the Traditional style Hill American Semi Longbow riser.
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I usually go with glass and a 030 lam. Ive used thicker. Up to 120 tapers but you must be certain the form is perfect. It’s not worth the brain damage though. I divvy my lams these days like so: starting from the back glass - 3 -4 lams usually all tapers but maybe a parallel to hit the formula then a parallel on the thin side usually 030 then glass.
If using clear with veneers It’s just the veneer and glass on the belly. Sometimes veneer as thin as 018.
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I never do, but I think a lam up the riser looks sharp. I think you could talk yourself into thinking one is better than the other, depending on the day of the week and your Zodiac sign
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Longcruise, when using 3 or 4 tapers on the back of the riser how do you do it? Must be a small «mound» in the center where the tapers start. How do you fit your riser to that? Hope I explain so it is understand able.
Myself I have used just parallel lams on the back of riser.
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The simple way is to lay lams with an equal taper rate on the form with the thin end(s) at the center and then do the layup on next. With adequate protection between of course.
The way I more often do it is to hand fit the riser to match. It’s abit of effort but it works. Im not set up to do any profile sanding.
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Okay thank you.
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I have been following along with this and am having some visualization problems of exactly what people are doing. Can someone post a couple pics to help me out with this?
Thanks,
Mark
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I have been following along with this and am having some visualization problems of exactly what people are doing. Can someone post a couple pics to help me out with this?
Thanks,
Mark
Need a little more help on what you are trying to visualize.
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Need a little more help on what you are trying to visualize.
After reading through it again, I think I have it now. OP is asking if people run just the FG lam up the fades onto the riser or if they run both a core lam and the FG lam up the fades. Is that correct?
Mark
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Need a little more help on what you are trying to visualize.
After reading through it again, I think I have it now. OP is asking of people run just the FG lam up the fades onto the riser or if they run both a core lam and the FG lam up the fades. Is that correct?
Mark
Si
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I've seen guys do it both ways.... But if you are running the glass up the belly ramp, the fades will be more robust with a wood lam running up the belly ramp too.
I do not build the basic ASL style myself, but i have a couple one piece long bows i build and I run a double ended power lam across the back of the riser to extend the fades, and one relatively thin wood lam up the belly ramps. (.080 or less) .....I believe it strengthens the fades personally. Kirk
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It would be extremely difficult to quantify any advantage or detriment with either setup, so I defer to the ultimate authority on the ASL, Howard Hill. I have not seen a personal bow of his that has a lam up the fade. Considering that he was big on function and not so much on adornments, you have to assume he had a reason.
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Correct me if i'm wrong Buggs, but aren't those Hill ASL bows laid up with the belly glass running full length, and then the grip section is installed over that belly glass? I might be thinking of something else i've seen.
I haven't really studied those original Hill styles much. Kirk
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Correct me if i'm wrong Buggs, but aren't those Hill ASL bows laid up with the belly glass running full length, and then the grip section is installed over that belly glass? I might be thinking of something else i've seen.
I haven't really studied those original Hill styles much. Kirk
Heck, he might have done that. All sorts of techniques and materials were used by Hill.
When he was in FL he observed a wood that I think he refered to as Snakewood. He tried that. He was an innovator and had an open mind.
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I’ve seen guys do a bunch of different things, but always favored running the glass up the belly ramps over a thin lam….. but…. Some of those ASL belly ramps are pretty steep and short… really short risers too….
My Boot Hill design, which is NOT an ASL design at all even though the strung bow looks identical to an HH design….has an 18” - 20” riser tip to tip of fades, with a 30” double ended power lam I wrap around the back of the riser.
Funny thing is….. my own design has MUCH higher performance, and no kick to it at all. The limbs bend further out than a typical ASL, and the preload at brace is much higher.
I honestly thought I’d sell these like hot cakes due to the advancements made, but…..I couldn’t give ‘em away to the HH crowd…. Between the early draw weight in the draw cycle, the lack of what they called “Thump” after the shot, and the faster arrows speed…. They just wouldn’t accept it as an ASL….. :dunno: :dunno: :dunno:
Tough crowd to please…. It’s a cult I tell ya. :biglaugh:
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I like 12-14" risers, which makes for real steep ramps. In fact, I have to thin the glass down to make the bend.
You are right about Hill folks, they are frozen in time.
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Do they all prefer those saggy back quivers that one has to reach around with the bow hand and push up on the bottom of the quiver, so the draw can reach the arrows? I don’t see any reason for that, but different strokes for different folks I suppose.
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Do they all prefer those saggy back quivers that one has to reach around with the bow hand and push up on the bottom of the quiver, so the draw can reach the arrows? I don’t see any reason for that, but different strokes for different folks I suppose.
That's pretty much a required element of the costume. :biglaugh:
I've made quite a few of those back quivers but they just don't work for me. My body just won't cooperate. Besides, I always have a day pack on so of course there's no place for it.
But I truly love shooting an ASL. True, they don't have the speed of other designs but you can up the arrow weight a lot without giving up much speed.
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Guilty of using a saggy a$$ back quiver :knothead: I don't have to push up to grab an arrow though? Those must be lowrider quivers, or somebodies need to work on their flexibility
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I use a leather side quiver made by a guy named Jack from Wash. similar to the one that Ted Fry at Raptor Archery sells.
It works great and as I have bad shoulders. This fits the bill for me.
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It was made by Jack Bower from Washington and was Top notch material and workmanship. Mine is over 20 years old and going strong.
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Here are a couple pics. Some of you might have one also
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I have a couple different ones now , & have had a few different types of those side quivers just like yours Gary. We might have bought from the same vender in Washington. Very nice for 3D shoots.
I bought a very nice back quiver that i ended up giving to my son in law. I didn't like having the arrows spilling out every time i bent over to pull arrows, and catching the arrows on branches. I never did like reaching over my shoulder for an arrow.... never felt comfortable to me.
My favorite 3D quiver is a hip style. But i like a strap on bow quiver for hunting. Kirk
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I decided to make my own. I got much of the ideas from a TG DIY topic. I've made a bunch of these since this one with design variations but this one serves well and has become a part of
Each broadhead has it's own protective sheath. All the sheaths are connected to a pull through in the bottom of the quiver with a knot so that drawing an arrow leaves the sheath behind.
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That is a great feature having the broad head covers that are attached to the bottom of the quiver. Nice job!